Comox Wood Hobby Club. Shop Safety and Operating Instructions

Transcription

1 Comox Wood Hobby Club Shop Safety and Operating Instructions Updated: 01 Apr 2013

2 Table of Contents Foreword SHOP SAFETY - General Instructions Personal Equipment Clothing Fire instructions Shop Cleanliness and Safety AIR HANDLER TABLE SAW SAWSTOP TABLE SAW MITRE / CHOP SAW BAND SAW SCROLL SAW DRILL PRESS JOINTER THICKNESS PLANER ROUTERS ROUTER TABLE SURFACE SANDER EDGE SANDER DISK SANDER AIR TOOLS BISCUIT / PLATE JOINER HINGE BORING AND INSERTION MACHINE /19

3 Foreword Shop safety is a matter of attitude. Knowing how and why to use the tools we have in our shop is important, but knowing how to use them so that you, your project, or the tools themselves are not damaged is far more important. The information contained herein is not meant to scare you or discourage you from Woodworking; to the contrary it will provide you with a sound basis on which to develop safe, productive shop habits. We are extremely fortunate to have at our disposal many quality tools that we have acquired over the many years this club has been in operation. These tools must be used responsibly and correctly at all times, and it is incumbent on each member to learn how to do this. This manual serves the purpose of providing this important information, and must be read by each member prior to the operation of any power tools in the shop. The manual describes the safe operation of each of the tools we have in the shop, along with some tips on good operation. Some of the instructions may seem repetitive; this is done purposely, as most safety instructions are similar to many tools, and bear reinforcement. Nothing, of course, replaces good old common sense, and the instructions contained herein, while they try to be comprehensive, cannot cover all aspects of shop and tool safety. You are responsible for your own safety, as well as monitoring the safety of others using the shop. Remember, you are only issued one set of hands and eyes; they need to last you a long, long time. Guard them and protect them at all times, and you will continue to enjoy the hobby of woodworking for your lifetime. I expect all Club members to respect and adhere to the Club Safety rules and to use the safety equipment and guards appropriate to the job they are doing. Failure to operate the equipment in a safe manner, or refusal to comply with the safety instructions and directions of this Club may result in suspension of shop privileges. President CWHC 3/19

4 1. SHOP SAFETY - General Instructions 4/19 a. All accidents must be reported immediately. b. Don t use any piece of equipment unless you understand how to use it correctly and safely. c. Don t use tools or equipment that are in any way defective. Report any tool that is dull, broken or malfunctioning. d. Use all the recommended guards and safety devices on the power equipment. Never remove a guard unless absolutely necessary and reinstall guard after completion of your work. e. Use the right tool for the job and use the right size tool. Use the tools only for what they were designed to do. f. Never operate this or any other woodworking machine whilst under the influence of alcohol or medication. g. Don t fool around in the shop! If you must be a clown, join the Circus and run away. h. Work at a safe speed. Don t rush or hurry through a project. Working too fast is dangerous, and it will result in poor craftsmanship. i. When in doubt ask someone for help. There are many people around who may know exactly how to solve the problem you have. j. Avoid working with power tools alone. If you must work alone, make sure someone knows that you are there, and make sure you can reach him or her quickly in an emergency. 2. Personal Equipment a. Always wear proper protection. Safety goggles, ear defenders and dust masks are provided throughout the shop. If you want to wear your own equipment ensure it conforms to the standard that you find available in the shop. Improper fitting or poor quality equipment can be inherently dangerous. 3. Clothing a. Keep clothes tucked in and shirtsleeves buttoned or rolled up neatly. Sleeves can easily be pulled into rotating cutters along with your arm. b. Wear appropriate non-skid footwear. No sandals or open toed slip-ons. c. Jewellery should not be worn in the shop. Remove rings, bracelets and necklaces before you do any work in the shop. d. Long hair must be tied back, out of the way. Either tie it back or wear a cap to keep it out of the way. Long hair can get caught in a moving machine. 4. Fire instructions a. Know where the fire extinguishers are located, read the instructions posted on them and know how and when to use them.

5 5/19 b. Damp oily rags are a fire hazard. Keep used rags in an approved covered metal container. Do not dispose of oily rags in the garbage dumpster. c. Flammable liquids should never be stored in your locker. Put your name on them, date them and store them in the finishing room paint locker. (Anything over a year old is eligible to be discarded. Note: Unwanted paint can be disposed of by taking it to the recycle center on Anderton Road.) d. Never put paint thinners or solvents down the drain. Dispose of them in the red waste solvent can that s in the bottom of the finishing room paint locker. 5. Shop Cleanliness and Safety a. Aisles must be kept clear and free of litter, scraps and materials. Don t leave anything lying around that could be tripped over or slipped on. b. Always use a brush to wipe away sawdust and scraps. Never use your hand to wipe off a surface. There are splinters and slivers and spinning blades just waiting to get you! c. Carry sharp tools with the edge or point held down toward the floor. This will help prevent injuries if you bump into something or if someone bumps into you. d. Lift with your legs, not with your back. Lifting improperly or carelessly can cause severe back injuries. e. Get help. When you handle large or heavy material, get someone to help you. Also ask someone to help or tail-off for you when you cut a large piece of stock on a machine. f. Disconnect the power equipment any time you need to make major changes or adjustments that could put you at risk. Unplug the tool or machine, don t rely on switches; pull the plug. g. Turn off the machine any time you make minor changes or adjustments. Never adjust equipment while it s running. Wait for it to come to a complete stop before you make the adjustment. h. Any time you leave a machine, turn it off and stay with it until it comes to a complete stop. i. Respect the safety zones. Stay away from anyone operating power equipment. Don t talk to or distract them in any way. Don t let anyone distract you when you re using power equipment. j. Use caution when loading lumber on storage shelves. Pile the material so that the load is stable. k. When accessing things beyond your reach, use a stepladder, not a chair or stool. l. Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grinding, drilling and other construction activities contains chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. Some examples of these chemicals are: (1) Lead from lead-based paint. (2) Crystalline silica from bricks and cement and other masonry products. (3) Arsenic and chromium from chemically-treated lumber.

6 6. AIR HANDLER 6/19 Your risk from these exposures varies depending on how often you do this type of work. To reduce your exposure to these chemicals, work in a well ventilated area and work with approved safety equipment, such as those dust masks that are specifically designed to filter out microscopic particles. Ensure the shop dust collectors are turned on prior to doing any sanding operations or operations that could produce fine airborne particles. a. The shop is equipped with both a fixed and mobile air handler to assist with keeping the work environment free of daw dust and debris. Most of the large tools are equipped with dust pick-ups connected to the fixed air handler to allow automatic dust collection. b. Ensure the dust collection barrel is empty and the dust skirts are shaken prior to operating the system. c. Gates on tools not being utilized should be closed to ensure system efficiency. d. Always allow the dust collection motor to come up to speed before starting the tool. e. Ensure the skirt is shaken and the barrel is empty prior to departing for the day. f. The portable air handler can be used to aid with dust collection on the tools that are not attached to the main system. 7. TABLE SAW a. The table saw is the most versatile tool in the shop, and is used in virtually every project at some point. Because the blade rotates towards the operator, and most machines have tremendous power, the table saw has the potential to be the most dangerous tool in the shop if it is used incorrectly. Strict adherence to all safety precautions is therefore always necessary. b. Use the right type of blade and be sure it is sharp and in good condition. A dull blade is much more dangerous than a sharp one. c. The blade must be installed with the teeth pointing towards the operator. d. Use the blade guard, splitter guard and other safety devices whenever possible. e. Un-plug the saw before making any major changes or adjustments. f. All minor adjustments must be made with the saw turned off and completely stopped. g. Adjust the blade so that it is no more than 1/4 inch higher than the material being cut. The blade should be no higher than necessary. h. When using the rip fence as a guide, be sure it is locked in position before you start to cut. i. Hold the material firmly against the rip fence and down on the surface of the table. Do not allow the material to lift off the table or move away from the fence. j. When ripping narrow stock, always use a push stick to complete the cut. Keep your hands and fingers at least 4 inches from the blade.

7 k. Always rip down the length of the material. Do not use the rip fence as a guide for cutting pieces to square dimensions or when cutting across the width, the wood may bind and kick back. Use the mitre gage. l. When you use the mitre gage, hold the material firmly against the mitre gage and down on the table. Keep your hands well to the side, away from the blade. m. Before using the mitre gage, check to be sure it slides freely. n. Never saw freehand. Always use the rip fence for ripping and the mitre gauge for crosscutting. o. Never use the mitre gauge and the rip fence in the same operation. The cut-off piece will bind between the blade and the fence. p. Check the condition of the wood. The material must be free of defects. Be sure there are no splits, checks, loose knots or hardware in the wood. q. Don't use the table saw with wood that's crooked, bowed, cupped or twisted. The wood must be straight and flat. r. Don't try to cut any cylindrical (round) stock without a holding jig. s. Always stand clear of the area directly behind the material being cut. t. Keep your hands away from the blade; avoid reaching over the top of the blade. u. Use a long piece of scrap or use the push stick to clear the area around the blade. The safest way to clear away scraps is with the saw stopped. v. When re-sawing, use feather-boards and jigs. Consider using the Band saw. w. Wait for the saw to come up to full speed before starting the cut. x. Never back out of a cut while the saw is running. Turn off the saw and wait for it to come to a complete stop before you back the material out of the cut. y. When you re working with a large piece of material, get help. Ask someone to "tail off for you. The tail-off helper should only support the material while you control it and move it through the cut. z. When you re working with a large piece of material use the panel guide if at all possible. Remember to complete a dry run, (that is, slide the fence through the blade area to ensure the fence will not be cut; especially if cutting a mitre). 8. SAWSTOP TABLE SAW a. It is important to understand that the braking technology in SawStop table saws does not prevent contact with the blade it minimizes the effect of the contact b. If you do contact the blade, the braking technology will stop the blade and in most cases there will be no injury or only a small nick c. However, you may incur a serious injury on a SawStop saw depending on factors such as speed and direction your hand is moving when it contacts the blade and the type of blade you are using d. If you are in bypass mode the safety system will be disabled and will not activate in the event you contact the spinning blade. 7/19

8 e. The normal cartridge assembly must be changed to a dado cartridge assembly if installing the dado blade set. f. Allow the saw to complete system initialization check prior to turning on main paddle in order to ensure all safety features are functioning. g. Wet, pressure treated woods may cause the brake to actuate since chemicals used to pressure treat wood often contain large amounts of copper, which is conductive. h. Do not operate in Bypass Mode unless you are cutting electrically conductive material. i. It the SawStop is activated contact the Shop Supervisor to replace the cartridge and blade 9. MITRE / CHOP SAW a. The mitre saw is used principally to make angled cuts across the grain of a board. It is extremely useful for mitred corners, for example, where accurate 45 0 cuts are required. It can cut a range of angles up to approximately b. Eye protection must always be worn while operating the Mitre saw. c. When cutting, keep one hand on the handle and the other hand out of the danger zone. The danger zone is an area marked around the blade area where hands should not go, usually with a bright colour. d. The work piece must be securely held against the fence throughout the cut. e. Be very careful of the cut-off piece. The saw blade can sometimes catch a small cut-off and fling it against the fence, where it rebounds back at you. f. Never put your hands under the saw blade, whether the saw is running or stopped. g. Cut slowly, especially on wide or large pieces. Fast cuts leave a poor finish. h. Always let the saw come up to speed before starting the cut. i. The mitre saw is for crosscutting only. Never use it to cut along the grain, j. Use a "stop" clamped to the fence when cutting several pieces the same length. k. Tapes and guides on the saw are reference only. Always lower the saw blade to your work without turning it on to see if you are cutting accurately on your line. l. Do not cross one arm over the other when cutting on the Mitre saw. If you are right handed, the bulk of the work piece is normally to the left of the blade, and you operate the saw with your right hand. m. The shortest board that can be safely cut is 12 inches (300 mm). This is because you cannot hold down a short board safely near the blade. If you must trim small pieces, organize some clamping mechanism to hold the piece. n. If you have clamps near the blade, always do a dry run, (that is, lower the saw blade to your work piece without squeezing the trigger to ensure you clear the clamps). 8/19

9 o. The widest board that can be cut on the fixed mitre saw is 8 inches (200 mm). This is the limit of the tool. p. For safe and accurate work, keep the saw and work area clear of tools, extra wood, chips, and sawdust. q. Throw all trimmings from the Miter saw in the garbage can and clean the machine after you have finished. r. Make sure the blade is stopped before leaving the Mitre Saw. s. Make sure the safety guard is in place and working properly before using the Mitre saw. t. Make sure the wood is always held securely against the fence. Never cut wood freehand. Be extra cautious if cutting a warped piece of lumber. 10. BAND SAW a. Band saws are extremely versatile tools that are used principally for free-hand cutting of arcs and curves and the re-sawing of thick boards. b. Before you use the band saw, check the blade. Be sure the blade is sharp and that it is the right type of blade for the work you want to do. c. Check the tension of the blade and check to be sure it is installed properly with the teeth pointing downward. d. Wheel guards must be closed and locked before the saw is switched on. e. Before you switch on the saw, adjust the upper blade guide so it s about 1/4 inch above the material you're going to cut. f. When you switch on the saw, be sure that it is tracking properly. The blade should move evenly between the blade guides and along the blade support wheel. g. The blade guides should be positioned just behind the teeth, and the thrust bearing should be close to, but not touching the blade. h. If the blade makes a clicking noise while it's operating, turn off the saw immediately. A clicking sound usually means there's a crack in the blade, and the blade is about to break. i. Never stand on the right side of the table, and don't let anyone else stand on that side of the saw. If the blade breaks it could be thrown out of the saw toward the right side. j. Never make any adjustments on the saw while it's moving. Adjustments should be made only when the saw is completely stopped. k. Wait for the saw to come up to full speed before you start the cut. l. Don't force the cut. Feed the material slowly enough to allow a smooth, easy cut. m. If you have to back out of a cut, turn off the saw and wait for it to come to a complete stop. Pull the material back without forcing it and without twisting the blade. 9/19

10 10/19 n. Small circles or sharp curves should be cut with a narrow blade. Make relief cuts (cuts at 90 degrees to your arc) first. o. Keep your fingers away from the front of the blade. Guide the material so your hands and fingers are never in line with the cut. Keep them completely out of the path of the cut. p. Use a piece of wood to remove scraps from around the blade. The safest way is to stop the saw first, then remove the scrap material. q. Keep the material firmly against the table. The table must support the stock at all times or the blade will bind. r. Stay balanced. Plan the cut so you can always keep your weight on both feet. s. If the material you're cutting is large or heavy, get help. Get someone to support the material while you guide it through the saw. t. Don't try to cut cylindrical (round) stock on the band saw without proper holddowns. 11. SCROLL SAW a. Scroll saws are used for finer work than their cousins, the band saw. While they are also used for cutting curves and arcs, scroll saws have the added benefit of cutting interior patterns, the blade can be removed from the machine and inserted thru a drilled hole for an inside cut. Scroll saws can cut tighter corners than a band saw, but are not as powerful, thus the stock is usually much thinner. While accidents with a scroll saw are not usually devastating, they can inflict a nasty wound to the unwary, thus caution is always required. b. Eye protection must always be worn while operating the Scroll Saw. c. Complete attention must be directed toward work being done. d. Position hands on the wood being cut so they are not in front of the blade. e. Set scroll saw up at a good working height and keep good posture for prolonged use. Your back and work will thank you. f. Make all adjustments with the power off. g. Never clear the table with your hands, use a piece of scrap wood or a brush. h. Lower the hold-down on all pieces of wood so that it presses lightly on the material being cut before starting the saw. i. Do not saw stock that has an uneven surface. j. Hold the material firmly and feed it into the blade at a moderate speed. k. Before backing out of a long cut, turn the power off. l. Pre-drill several relief holes in your work to allow you to remove waste properly. m. Occasionally the blade will break while the machine is running. If this should occur, shut off the machine immediately. n. Disconnect the machine from the power source when making repairs or changing blades.

11 12. DRILL PRESS a. The Drill press is principally used for the vertical drilling of holes, but can be used for cutting mortises, or drum sanding, or the cutting of circles with the appropriate attachments. b. The drill press is very adept at catching loose clothing and jewellery, so keep sleeves secure/rolled up and jewellery at home where it belongs c. Use only bits that are designed and manufactured for drilling machine operation. HSS or carbide tipped bits are best. d. Be sure the cutting tool is sharp, straight and in good condition. e. Check the drill speed before you operate the drill. Use the right speed for the work. For example: large holes should be cut at a low speed. f. Be sure you know what you are doing when adjusting the drive belts. Unplug the machine first. A large drive wheel connected to a small wheel will give the greatest bit speed. Follow the recommended speed chart. g. Don't try to tighten the chuck by hand only. Use the chuck key to fasten the cutting tool into the chuck. After tightening one hole, move the chuck key to a second hole and tighten again. h. Always check twice to be sure you have removed the chuck key before turning on the drill press. i. Check that the table is perpendicular to the drill bit using a small square. j. Adjust the table so the clearance hole in the center of the table is lined up under the cutting tool. k. Use clamps to hold the work firmly on the table. If clamps are not possible, hold the work firmly against the fence. Do not release it when the bit is turning in the work piece. l. Make sure your table is clear of chips. If the work piece is not flat the hole will not be vertical. m. Keep your hands out of the area directly under the drill bit. n. When making a deep cut, back out of the cut several times. This helps prevent overheating and keeps the waste from clogging the bit. o. If the hole is going to be drilled all the way through the material, fasten a piece of scrap under the material. This prevents blow-out on the backside of your wood.. p. Turn the drill press off before you make any changes or adjustments. Turn it off, wait for it to come to a complete stop, and then make the changes. q. Never try to stop the drill by hand. Always let it coast to a stop. r. Don't use your hand to clear away wood chips or waste material. Always use a brush. s. Don't leave a drill while it's still running. Turn it off and stay with it until it has come to a complete stop. 11/19

12 13. JOINTER a. The jointer is used to square the face and edges of boards prior to thickness planing and ripping to width. Accurate work is essential in ensuring that your lumber is dimensioned properly with square edges. The jointer can be used to reduce a board in thickness as well, although planers or sanders are more accurate for this purpose. b. Check the safety guard over the cutter head. Make sure it swings freely and returns to its position over the cutter head. c. The fence should be set to expose a minimum of the cutter head. d. Check to see that the fence is square, and that it is locked in position.. e. It is not necessary to make any adjustments to the out-feed table; maintenance personnel have precisely adjusted it. If you feel it is out of adjustment, call it to the attention of a shop supervisor. f. Before you turn on the jointer, check the depth of cut with the in-feed table adjustment. Adjust it for the smallest cut that will do the job. Ideally, you should not remove more than 1/16 th of an inch at a pass when face jointing (the flat surface of the board). g. When edge jointing, never make a cut deeper than 1/8 th of an inch. h. Never adjust the jointer while it is operating; always turn it off and wait for it to come to a complete stop. i. Material should be at least 12 inches long, 1 inch wide and 1/2 inch thick to be safely jointed. It is very dangerous to attempt to joint wood with any dimension less than these, as it is not possible to control the wood over the cutting surface. j. The wood must be sound, with no defects such as knots, splits or checks. It must be clean, with no hardware, paint or other finishes on it. k. The material must be held down firmly against the table and against the fence. l. Be sure there is a push stick or a push block within reach. Always use a push stick or a push block when jointing flat or narrow material. m. If you have little ripples on your work you are pushing the work too quickly. n. Stand so you are balanced when you make the cut. Ask someone to help you or use roller stands if the stock is too long to stay on the table. o. Never apply pressure directly over the cutter head. The wood can splinter into your hands..pressure should be applied in front of the cutter head or behind it. p. If you apply pressure behind the cutter head, finish the cut with pressure behind until just before the end. If you shift pressure to in front of the cutter half way along the board you will end up with a rocking chair board after several passes. q. Keep your hands and arms at least 4 inches away from the rotating knives in the cutter head. r. Complete each pass on the jointer. Don't interrupt a cut or try to back out of it. Backing out of a cut can cause serious kickback and you could be injured. 12/19

13 13/19 s. Don't joint across the end grain of the wood. End grain jointing should be avoided until you have had specific instruction on how to do it safely. t. The jointer is sometimes used for bevelling or for tapering. These operations require special set-ups. u. When you are finished using the jointer, turn it off and stay with it until it has come to a complete stop. 14. THICKNESS PLANER a. The thickness planer is used to reduce a board in thickness on its face side. It is used to clean up a rough board and bring it to the correct thickness. Boards should be face jointed on one face on the jointer before the thickness planer is used, as the planer will only bring the two faces parallel with each other. The jointed face should be placed face down into the planer, as it cuts from above. The planer will not straighten out warped or twisted boards. As you plane, the board should be flipped over after each pass to ensure even and parallel faces. If the grain tears out, flip the board end to end so that the cutters cut with the grain. b. Wear eye protection and ear protection. All planers are extremely loud, in excess of 100 db. Always wear earmuffs, even if you are the one not using the tool. c. Know the controls. You may need to stop the planer in an emergency, and you may have to lower the table. Know the location of the stop switch and know how to operate the elevation control. d. Set the height of the table before you switch on the planer. e. Adjust the planer for the smallest cut that'll do the job. Do not plane more than 1/16 inch at one time. f. The wood must be in good condition. Don't plane material that has loose knots, splits or checks in it. g. Check the material to be sure it s free of nails or other hardware. h. Don't plane material that has paint, varnish or any kind of finish on it. i. The stock must be long enough to go through the planer safely. The minimum length is 12 inches (300 mm) to bridge the feed rollers. Anything less and the wood may twist and go through sideways, resulting in a tremendous kickback and destruction of the machine. j. The material has to be thick enough to be planed safely. Do not plane stock that is less than 1/2 inch thick. k. When you plane a long piece of stock ask someone to help you or use rollers to support the material as it leaves the out feed side of the planer. l. Plane only with the grain. Never try to plane in any direction except with the grain of the wood. m. Don t ever put plywood through the planer. The lower layers are cross-grained and will jam up the machine.

14 14/19 n. Keep your fingers away from the area between the stock and the surface of the table. Hold the stock by the sides and let go as soon as the rollers start to pull it into the planer. Let the planer do the work. o. Stand to one side while the stock is going through the planer. Stand clear of any possible kickback. p. Never look into the planer while it's operating, even though you're wearing eye protection. Chips are sometimes thrown out of the planer at high speed. q. If the material gets stuck in the planer, immediately lower the table and switch it off. Wait for it to come to a complete stop before proceeding. r. The planer must be unplugged when maintenance is being performed. 15. ROUTERS a. Routers are quickly becoming the tool of choice for many woodworkers. The range of bits available means that virtually any profile can be cut along or across grain. It can be used to cut rabbets, dadoes, grooves, mortises and many more cuts. The router operates at extremely high speeds, thus the larger bits have a lot of momentum and can throw work pieces across a room without effort. Larger bits should be used in a table-mounted router. b. Always wear eye protection. The router throws a lot of and sawdust. c. The router is one of the loudest tools in the shop, and its high frequencies are particularly damaging. Always wear earmuffs, even if you are the one not using the tool. d. Keep the router disconnected until you are ready to use it. Keep the router unplugged when you install a bit, and unplug it again if you need to change bits. e. Always check the power switch before you plug in the router. Check the switch to make sure it is in the "off position. f. Check the bit to make sure it is sharp and in good condition. A dull or damaged bit can be very dangerous to use, besides ruining your work piece. g. Make sure the collett is in good condition. A worn, dirty or damaged collett can cause a vibration that will damage the bit and the router, and the bit may slip out. h. When you install a bit, insert at least 1/2 inch of the shank into the collett, more if possible, but don t completely bottom out the bit as most bits have a small flare where the stem is attached and the collect will not get a full grip on the stem. i. Tighten the chuck so the bit is held securely. Don't tighten it so firmly that the router is damaged. The stem expands during use, making removal difficult. j. Be sure the bit clears the router base through the range of its movement k. After the router has been adjusted for the depth of the cut, secure the locking lever or locking knob. Always double-check the locking lever before you use the router. l. Don't try to remove a lot of material in one cut. If necessary, make several passes. Begin with a shallow cut, and then re-set the depth for a deeper cut. This method is safer and it does a better job.

15 m. The area of the stock that is going to be routed must be in good condition. It must be clean, with no knots, splits or checks and free of paint or hardware. n. Fasten your work piece down. Never try to hold on to the material while you use the router free-hand. o. When you fasten the material, keep clamps, hold-downs or other devices out of the path of the router. p. When you operate the router, always hold it with both hands. q. Before you switch it on, be sure the bit is clear of the material. If the bit isn't completely clear, the router may be kicked out of your hands. r. Wait for the router to come up to full speed before you move it into the cut. s. Move the router steadily and evenly through the cut. Don't force it t. The direction of feed should always be against the rotation of the bit. u. Set the speed of the router for the size of the bit. The larger the bit the slower the speed. v. Don't turn off the router until the bit is clear of the stock. Move the bit away from the material before you turn off the router. w. Wait for it to come to a complete stop before you set the router down. x. Never set the router down on an exposed bit. Lay it on its side. 16. ROUTER TABLE a. Read and understand operating instructions before operating this machine. b. Obtain advice from an Instructor or Shop Supervisor if you are unfamiliar with any part of the operation of this machine or its operation. Do not experiment. c. Eye and ear protection are mandatory. d. Remove or securely fasten loose clothing. Jewellery should be removed. e. Maintain control of the stock at all times; use a holding device if the piece is too small to hold properly. f. Keep fingers away from the cutting surfaces. Use a pushing device if unsure. There is risk of severe injury from high-speed spinning blades. g. If the machine bogs down, reduce the amount of pressure you are exerting on the work piece. h. When replacing router bits the router on the older router table the router must be removed from the table, and unplugged. Use only the supplied wrenches and tools on the router. i. Always feed stock into the rotation of the blade, never away from it. You may lose control of the stock if you do not follow this procedure. When in doubt ASK! j. Before leaving the machine it must be swept clean of dust and chips, and unplugged. 15/19

16 17. SURFACE SANDER 16/19 a. The surface sander is very useful for reducing the thickness of a board a small amount, while leaving a surface that requires very little finish sanding. It does not replace the planer however, as it does not remove a lot of material quickly. A good rule of thumb is that if you have more than ¼ inch to remove, use the thickness planer first. Another plus is that the sander is wide enough to take an entire cabinet door, for example, in one pass, allowing you to correct that not too precise joint overlap. b. Check the abrasive on the sander to make sure it isn t too coarse or too fine for the work you want to do. c. Ensure that the sanding belt is attached properly at both ends, and that it does not overlap in any spots. This will cause burning and scoring on your work. d. The sanding medium must be in good condition. Don t use the sander if the sanding medium is torn, burned or clogged. It will just burn and ruin your work. e. Check the clearance between the drum and the material. Start high and slowly lower the drum to the material. f. Install sandpaper in recommended direction of rotation. g. Don t try to take too much material at once. Use several passes. h. It is possible to sand across the grain with this machine, but if your sandpaper is too coarse, you will put deep scratches in your work. i. Always finish up sanding with the grain. j. The air handler must be operating efficiently to remove sanding dust or the machine will bog down and/or you will gum up your paper. k. If the circuit breaker trips you are probably taking too big a bite. Release some pressure l. As always, wear eye protection. Goggles are preferred when sanding. m. Keep clothes tucked in and shirtsleeves rolled up neatly. n. If your hair is long, tie it back or wear a cap over it. o. Never stand behind the sander when it is running. The drum is susceptible to kickback. p. Keep the material flat against the table. Don t try to sand freehand. q. Make sure the material is large enough to be held safely. r. The wood must be clean and dry. Avoid sanding wood that is green or gummy. Avoid sanding softwood with resins in it. You will just gum up your paper. s. When sanding short pieces, use a piece of scrap behind them to help avoid kickback. t. Never leave a sander while it is still running or coasting. u. The sander doesn t look like a cutting tool, but that s exactly what it is. Think of it as a cutting tool and keep your fingers, hands and arms away from the revolving drum.

17 v. Unplug the sander before attempting to load or unload the abrasive. The On-Off switch is easily tripped while loading the drum. 18. EDGE SANDER a. Before you turn on the machine, make sure everyone is clear of it. Keep hands away from abrasive belt. b. Never remove safety guards during operation. c. Make sure the abrasive belt is not torn or loose. d. Make sure the direction of rotation is the same as that marked on the machine label. If not, the power connection must be changed. e. Make sure the abrasive belt is tracking properly. f. Support your work piece with the work table. g. When front work table is to be used at an incline, check that the work table is firmly fixed on the machine. h. Sand with the grain of the wood. i. Hold the work piece firmly to prevent it being driven from your hands. j. Feed work piece against rotation of abrasive belt. k. Do not put excess pressure on the abrasive belt. It is not necessary and will only lead to damage to the belt or the work piece. 19. DISK SANDER a. The disk sander can be used to quickly dimension a piece of lumber, or to take a rough finish off prior to final sanding. It removes material quickly, thus must be used with caution. It can also provide impromptu manicures if your hands get too close to the disk. b. Check the abrasive on the sander to make sure it isn t too coarse or too fine for the work you want to do. c. The sanding disk must be in good condition. Don t use the sander if the disk is loose, torn, burned or clogged. d. Check the clearance between the disk and the table. The table should be set as close as possible without touching the disk at any point. e. When you use a guide be sure the guide remains completely clear of the disk. f. Always wear eye protection. Goggles are preferred when sanding. g. Loose clothing can get caught between the revolving disk and the table. Keep clothes tucked in and shirtsleeves secure/rolled up neatly. h. If your hair is long, tie it back or wear a cap over it. i. Never stand at the sides of the sander when it is running. Don t let anyone else stand there, either. If the abrasive disk should come off or fly apart, it will be thrown toward the sides of the sander. 17/19

18 18/19 j. Use the table as a support. Keep the material flat against the table; keep your fingers out from between your material and the table. k. Note the direction of disk rotation. Use only the side that is moving downward past the table. l. Make sure the material is large enough to be held safely. Don t sand small pieces of stock on the disk sander. m. The wood must be clean and dry. Avoid sanding wood that is green or gummy. Avoid sanding softwood with resins in it. n. Keep the stock moving back and forth across the downward side of the disk. Holding it in one place will cause it to over-heat and burn. o. Never leave a sander while it is still running or coasting. If you need to, you can stop the coasting by sanding a piece of scrap. p. The sander doesn t look like a cutting tool, but that s exactly what it is. Think of it as a cutting tool and keep your fingers, hands and arms away from the revolving disk. 20. AIR TOOLS a. Air tools are used in the shop along side the electrically powered ones. Hand sanders are one area where air is used to power the rotating head. The compressed air to drive these tools is held in a tank that is re-charged when the pressure gets low. The air is under a high pressure, thus the air must be used with caution, particularly when connecting or disconnecting the devices. b. When connecting or disconnecting air powered devices a firm grip must be held on both the hose and the device. c. The air can also be used for dusting off machines and work pieces prior to finishing, but extreme caution must be exercised when doing this. d. The air stream has the ability to rupture a cornea if it is directed at an eye, an eardrum if the air stream gets in the ear, or even create an embolism (a bubble of air in the blood) if the hose is directed at bare skin. This can be fatal. Accordingly, the air jet should not be used to dust off work clothes above the waist. e. If the air jet is used to dust off a work piece, ensure proper breathing apparatus is worn and that the air cleaners are turned on. Please be conscious of other people in the shop when you do this. Some wood dust is toxic. 21. BISCUIT / PLATE JOINER a. Ensure this power tool has a suitable safe work area. b. Dial to the correct cutting depth to suit the size of the biscuits to be used. c. Ensure all safety guards are serviceable and in place. d. Make all machine adjustments with the power lead disconnected from the AC isolating switch. e. Ensure adequate dust ventilation or extraction.

19 f. Use a vice or clamp to securely hold the work piece and support any overhanging portion. g. Set the fence height and the correct biscuit size adjustment knob to assure accurate positioning and correct depth for cutting (slotting). h. Do not hold your work piece by hand, if at all possible. i. Keep the sole plate pressed firmly on the work piece. j. Do not apply excessive force this could cause the cutter disc to burn the work piece. k. Before cleaning away waste material and inspecting the results of the slotting process, always bring the machine to a complete stop and keep hands away from the disc. l. Turn off immediately after use. Do not place the machine down until the disc has stopped rotating. 22. HINGE BORING AND INSERTION MACHINE a. Keep work area clean. b. Keep hands away from all moving tools and machine parts. c. Use safety glasses or goggles. d. Air hoses and cables must be routed to avoid accidents. e. Drill bits must be maintained properly and sharpened regularly f. Read the instructions when changing tools and accessories g. Never operate the machine in a wet environment; remember High Voltage h. Never remove or disable electrical or mechanical safety features. i. Disconnect all power and air supplies before conducting ant set-ups, tool changes or maintenance j. Avoid distractions while working; keep alert! 19/19