Finished size 52 x 26. Over the River depicts the cherished childhood memories of celebrating life and families together.

Transcription

1 Over the River Finished size 52 x 26 Over the River depicts the cherished childhood memories of celebrating life and families together. In this Embroidery Workshop students will learn Claudia s technique for accurately Multi-Hooping oversized designs with perfect placement! Pre-class work advised Each student must purchase the design, Over the River $50.00 Available exclusively to students in the workshop Original artwork by Nyssa Benthin Digitized by Claudia Dinnell 1

2 Design: Over the River by Claudia Dinnell Over the River supply List Finished size 52 x26 Fabric Supply List: ½ yard White tone on tone Background fabric ¼ yard Coordinating tone on tone for word borders ¼ yard Black or dark Fabric for sashing ¼ yard Print Fabric for piecing checkboard ¼ yard White tone on tone for piecing checkerboard 2 ½ yards Polymesh Cutaway Stabilizer (20 wide) 2 ½ yards Shape Flex 101 by Pellon ½ yard Binding 1 ½ yards Backing 55 x 30 Batting Embroidery Supply List: Minimum Hoop Requirements: 6 wide by 12 high (Mega Hoop) All Hoops must have a grid/template Medium Weight Tear Away Temporary Adhesive Spray Removable fabric marking pen Basic embroidery kit including small doubled curved scissors, long straight pointy tweezers, etc. Embroidery Needles 80/12 Threads: 40 wt. Embroidery Thread or 50 wt. Cotton Thread Outlining Color Shading Color Black Tan (2-3 Shades darker than the background fabric) Sewing Supply List 50wt. Cotton Thread matching the fabric for piecing Basic sewing kit including scissors, pins, rotary cutter & mat, long straight ruler, etc. Spray Starch Optional: 20 ½ square ruler for accurate marking & trimming or the largest square you have! 2

3 Background Fabric Iron and starch the fabric Cut (1) strip 18 x width of fabric: Shape Flex: Cut (1) strip 18 x width of fabric: Same size as background fabric. Cutting and fabric Preparation Instructions First steam iron and starch the fabric. Then place the woven interfacing (Shape Flex 101 by Pellon) adhesive side down, on the wrong side of the fabric. Spray with water. Use your hands to smooth out the moistened Shape Flex over the fabric before using the steam iron. Set the steam iron on the center area of the Shape Flex and hold the iron long enough to dry & seal the two layers together, but not so long that it scorches the fabric! Pick up the iron and place it close to the first spot. Repeat until all the interfacing is sealed to the fabric. This will preshrink both fabric and interfacing. The Shape Flex will shrink, that is expected. All the edges of the Shape Flex should be sealed to the fabric. If air bubbles are showing on the fabric, you need to spray with water and press again. Polymesh Cutaway Stabilizer: Cut a piece of Polymesh stabilizer 3-4 larger than the background fabric. You may need to piece (use adhesive spray) the Polymesh to get the size needed. Center the fabric block on the Polymesh. Use adhesive spray to fuse the Polymesh to the block. The fabrics should be smooth and lay flat. Marking the Block: Use a removable marking pen. On the front (right side) of the block, draw a center crosshair the full length and width of the fabric. The lines must be perpendicular to each other. Additionally, for the top & bottom panels, draw vertical lines 8 on either side of the center. See picture below. Sewing the Stabilizer to the Block: Sew (walking/dual feed foot) close to the edge (less than ¼ ) completely around the edge of the fabric. Use a normal stitch length. This will secure the stabilizer to the fabric and reduce stretching during embroidery. The two fabrics must be smooth and lay flat without puckers. Add basting lines on the top & bottom panels. With a basting stitch, sew (4) vertical lines 4 and 8 on either side of center. See large dotted lines. See Picture: Black solid lines / drawn crosshairs Tiny Dotted line around edge of fabric / normal stitching to secure the fabric to the stabilizer Large Dotted lines / basting stitches in between the drawn crosshairs 3

4 Tips for Successful Embroidery! Keep these pages accessible, you will need to refer to these Tips throughout your embroidery!! Follow Claudia s two step Perfect Placement Technique for accuratly multi-hooping large designs! Step #1: Marking the design s first stitch location on the grid: Attach the hoop and grid to the module with no fabric. Open the design to be embroidered. Advance to the embroidery sewing screen. Embroidery Machines open a design in an editing screen. Touch the icon that moves you to the embroidery sewing screen. Advancing to the embroidery sewing screen takes you to the first stitch of the design, where you are ready to embroider! Many Brother, Babylock, Pfaff, & Singer machines have an automatic center stitch programmed into the machine. You must advance past this programmed center stitch to move to the first stitch of my designs. These machines will have an additional icon you will need to touch to move you to first stitch of my design. Bernina machines with a Basting Box option must make sure the built in basting box option is turned off before they advance to the embroidery sewing screen. Then by hand, lower your needle to touch the grid. Place an arrow shaped post-it-note on the grid so the tip of the arrow touches the tip of the needle. (See picture) This marks the first stitch location of my design on the grid (not the center of the design, not the center of the hoop, but the first stitch of the opened design). Raise the needle; remove the hoop and grid from the module. Step #2: Hooping the Fabric Place the inner hoop with the grid on the (stabilized and marked) background fabric. The arrow shaped post-it-note on the grid should be pointing to either the Needle Alignment or to the Placement Line location on the background fabric. The location is noted in the Embroidery Instructions and will be different for each hooping (it will almost never be the center of the hoop). Hoop the (stabilized and marked) fabric with the lines on the grid parallel and perpendicular to the drawn lines on the fabric. The drawn lines need not lie exactly under the lines of the grid, but must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. This keeps the larger piece of fabric square and straight as you embroider. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. After you have connected the hoop to the module, the needle may need a little adjustment to be exactly over the Needle Alignment or Placement Line that are on the fabric. If needed, select the Move Hoop Icon & move the hoop to position the needle perfectly over the mark. The Needle Alignment is to place the needle correctly on the fabric, usually it is not to be sewn out; it is for needle placement only (unless otherwise indicated). If you accidently sew it out it will look like a crosshair, pick it out! To watch a demo of the Perfect Placement Technique from your computer go to: Select the Workshops tab and choose Instructional Videos / Perfect Placement. Additional Tips and Helps! Tip #1: Built in Basting Box! A. Many embroidery machines have a built-in basting box option. When this option is enabled it may add a color stop to the stitching order of the design. This option should be disabled before opening a design. If the basting box option is on or enabled when you advance to the embroidery sewing screen, you would be marking the grid with the first stitch position for the basting box and not the first stitch of the design! Be sure to disable the basting box option before opening a design. Mark the first stitch of the design with the post-it note arrow. Hoop your fabric. Now turn on or enable the basting box option and sew the basting box out. After sewing out the built-in basting box, turn it off, if your machine doesn t turn it off automatically. BERNINA s have two basting box options; turn off both before marking the grid. Leaving it on will add a thread color stop and the numbering of the colors in the instructions will be off by one: The added color for the basting box. Be sure this option if off before marking the Needle Alignment. Tip #2: Hooping Tips A. Spray temporary adhesive to the tear away stabilizer and adhere to the wrong side of the background fabric. Hoop both layers as if they were one. The piece of stabilizer must always be cut larger than the actual hoop size. This will help keep the embroidery stabilized and reduce puckering. For additional stabilization slide or float a second piece of stabilizer under the hoop! B. To make hooping easier, only stabilize the area to be embroidered. 4

5 C. I place sections of permanent double sided tape (not repositionable) on the wrong side of the inner hoop. Then I flip the inner hoop right side up and place the inner hoop, with the grid inside of it, on the fabric. The doubled sided tape holds the inner hoop to the fabric. This makes it easier to pick up the inner hoop and fabric and place it in the outer hoop with ease. (Always loosen the outer hoop screws as much as possible). D. You may find it easier to hoop the fabric if you remove the stabilizer from the last hooping because that will reduce the stabilizer bulk. E. Roll the excess fabric in a tube shape and use clips to hold the excess fabric out of the way. This will prevent the fabric from accidently falling under the hoop. F. As you place the hoop on the fabric remember the drawn lines on the fabric need not lie exactly under the lines of the grid, but must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Tip #3: Unusual Embroidery Instructions (not so common in other patterns): A. Needle Alignment: This is placed first in the stitching order. It is strictly for needle placement and not to be sewn out (unless indicated). If it is accidently sewn out it will look like a crosshair. Pick it out! B. Placement Line: This is usually a line that is to be sewn out without thread. It is an alignment tool for connecting one hooping to another. C. The blank line after the thread color: Thread Purple # (Write your thread Color # on the line) It will help you remember what color you used when you return to embroidering. Tip #4: Ironing/Pressing A. Place the embroidered background fabric wrong side up, over a cotton towel to iron. Ironing on the right side of embroidery will crush the embroidery stitches! Padding the stitches with a folded cotton towel wont crush them. I usually spay with starch and then press the fabric. Tip #5: Trimming the Blocks A. For best accuracy, use a square ruler to trim all the blocks. Place the square ruler on the block lining up two sides, then trim. Trimming with a 6 x 24 ruler is not as accurate and leads to slips and miss-cuts. If you have difficulty keeping a ruler from moving when you cut, place double sided tape on the side that goes against the fabric! Also, using quilting gloves helps to hold it in place! Fabric Preparation Removing Dye: Usually I do not wash my fabrics before embroidering or piecing them into a quilt. However, if I am using reds or greens I may want to test a piece to see if it is color fast. If it is not, you may want to treat the fabric with a product that will remove the excess dye. Quilt products such as Retayne and Synthrapol always work great. Sizing or Starching the Fabric: This process will pre-shrink your fabric and leave it with body making it perfect for cutting, piecing and embroidering. Spray starch over the fabric. Hold a hot iron on the fabric until the moisture dries. Don t burn your fabric but hold it on long enough for it to dry. I always starch my fabric before embroidering on it. Woven Interfacing: First steam iron and starch the fabric. Then place the woven interfacing (Shape Flex 101 by Pellon) adhesive side down, on the wrong side of the fabric. Spray with water. Use your hands to smooth out the moistened Shape Flex over the fabric before using the steam iron. Set the steam iron on the center area of the Shape Flex and hold the iron long enough to dry & seal the two layers together, but not so long that it burns! Pick up the iron and place it close to the first spot. Repeat until all the interfacing is sealed to the fabric. This will pre-shrink both fabric and interfacing. The Shape Flex will shrink, that is expected. All the edges of the Shape Flex should be sealed to the fabric. If air bubbles are showing on the fabric, you need to spray with water and press again. 5

6 Over the River Embroidery Instructions for 10 x14 Hoops (Before beginning embroidery please check my website for updates) All designs use Claudia s Perfect Placement Technique to mark the grid with an arrow before hooping. To watch a demo of this method go to: select the Workshop tab and click Instructional Videos. Read all of Tips for Succesful Embroidery before beginning especially Steps #1 & #2. Cut Background Fabric 44 x 18 (wxh) See Cutting and Fabric Preparation Instructions. Mark two more vertical lines 8 on either side of center. Select the folder with the format your machine reads. Select 10 x14 Hoops folder Select #1 Top Row folder Hooping #1 House & Mailbox Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open Design #1 House & Mailbox Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1 st stitch of the design. Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of Tips for Successful Embroidery. Pay special attention to the information about Brother, Babylock, & Pfaff machines.) To hoop this design the fabric is positioned with the top of the block at the top. Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the crosshair 8 to the left of center on the fabric. See Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or float a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop. Color #1 Needle Alignment. The needle is over the crosshair 8 to the left of center on the fabric. Reposition, if needed to be over the center of the drawn crosshair 8 to the left of center. Do not sew Color #1. (Needle alignment only) Advance to Color #2. Thread Color Gray # (write your thread color here) Color #2 Embroider the shading. Thread Color Black # Color #3 Embroider the design. Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop. Gently remove the tear away stabilizer from the back. 6

7 Hooping #2 Barn Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open Design #2 Barn Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1 st stitch of the design. Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of Tips for Successful Embroidery ) To hoop this design the fabric is rotated with the top of the block on the right. Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the end of the line touching the house. See green arrow in Example #2. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or float a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop. Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the end of the line touching the house. See green arrow in Example #2. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1 without thread. It sews from the start to the end arrow. Re-thread. Advance to Color #2. Thread Color Gray # Color #2 Embroider the shading. Thread Color Black # Color #3 Embroider the design. Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop. Gently remove the stabilizer. Hooping #3 Horse & Sleigh Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open Design #3 Horse and Sleigh Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1 st stitch of the design. Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of Tips for Successful Embroidery ) To hoop this design the fabric is positioned with the top of the block on the right. 7

8 Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the end of the tree trunk line. See green start arrow in Example #3. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or float a piece of medium weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop if you see puckering. Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the end of the tree trunk line. See green arrow in Example #3. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1 without thread. It sews over the tree trunk from the start to the end arrow. Reposition if needed to sew over the line. Re-thread. Advance to Color #2. Thread Color Gray # Color #2 Embroider the shading. Thread Color Black # Color #3 Embroider the design. Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop. Gently remove the tearaway stabilizer. Hooping #4 Deer Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open Design #4 Deer Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1 st stitch of the design. Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. To hoop this design the fabric is rotated with the top of the block on the right. Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the intersection of the single line and the roof. See green start arrow in Example #4. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or float a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop. Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the intersection of the line and the roof. See green arrow in Example #4. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1 without thread. It sews over the line from the start to the end arrow. Re-thread. Advance to Color #2. Thread Color Gray # Color #2 Embroider the shading. Thread Color Black # Color #3 Embroider the design. Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric & stabilizer from the hoop. Embroider all the panels before trimming. Set this panel aside for now. 8

9 Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open Design #5 Bridge Hooping #5 Bridge Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1 st stitch of the design. Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of Tips for Successful Embroidery ) To hoop this design the fabric is positioned with the top of the quilt top at the top. Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the end of the tree trunk. See start arrow in Example #5. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or float a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop. Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the end of the tree truck. See green start arrow in Example #5. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1 without thread. It sews from the start to the end arrow over the black outline. Re-thread. Advance to Color #2. Thread Color # Color #2 Embroider the shading. Thread Color # Color #3 Embroider the design. Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop. 9

10 Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open Design #6 River Hooping #6 River Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1 st stitch of the design. Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of Tips for Successful Embroidery ) To hoop this design the fabric is positioned with the top of the quilt top at the top. Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the top of the single line. See start arrow in Example #6. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or float a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop. Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the top of the single line. See green start arrow in Example #6. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1 without thread. It sews from the start to the end arrow over the black outline. Re-thread. Advance to Color #2. Thread Color # Color #2 Embroider the shading. Thread Color # Color #3 Embroider the design. Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop. Remove all the markings and gently remove the tear away stabilizer from the back. Trim the block. 10

11 Hooping #3 Over the River Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open Design #3 Over the River Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1 st stitch of the design. Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of Tips for Successful Embroidery ) To hoop this design the fabric is rotated with the top of the strip on the right. Mark a horizontal line on the fabric strip 3 above the embroidery. Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the center line 3 above the top of the embroidered design. Not the center crosshair but 3 above the embroidery on the center line. See start arrow in Example #3. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or float a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop. Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned 3 above the embroidered design on the center vertical line. See green start arrow in Example #3. Reposition, if needed. Do not sew Color #1 it is needle positioning only. Advance to Color #2. Thread Color # Color #2 Embroider the words. Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop. 11

12 Bottom Border: to Grandmother s house we go! Hooping #1 to Grandmother s Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open the Embroidered Word folder /select #2 Bottom Row Open Design #1 to Grandmother s Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1 st stitch of the design. Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of Tips for Successful Embroidery ) To hoop this design the fabric is rotated with the top of the strip on the right. See Example #1. Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the center of the crosshair. The excess fabric will be below the hoop. You will be embroidering from the center upward. See start arrow in Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or float a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop. Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned over the center crosshair on the fabric. See green start arrow in Example #1. Reposition, if needed. Do not sew Color #1 it is needle positioning only. Advance to Color #2. Thread Color # Color #2 Embroider the words. Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop. 12

13 Hooping #2 house we go! Open Design #2 house we go! Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1 st stitch of the design. Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of Tips for Successful Embroidery ) To hoop this design the fabric is rotated with the top of the strip on the right. See Example #2. Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the center bottom of the letter s in the word Grandmother s. See start arrow in Example #2. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or float a piece of light weight tear a way stabilizer under the attached hoop. Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the center bottom of the letter s in the word grandmother s.. See green start arrow in Example #2. Reposition, if needed. Do not sew Color #1 it is needle positioning only. Advance to Color #2. Thread Color # Color #2 Embroider the words. Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop. 13

14 Piecing the Embroidered word borders Center the words and trim the word border strips to 3 ½ x width of the fabric. Center the top word border strip, Over the River and through the Woods, on the top of the pieced quilt. Do not cut the long width until after you sew it to the top. Pin frequently and sew to the top. Repeat with the bottom border, center the words, to Grandmother s house we go!, pin frequently. Sew to the bottom of the quilt top. Cut (1) more border strip 3 ½ x width of fabric Sub cut in half to have (2) 3 ½ x 22 Center and sew one to each side of the quilt top. Trim to square the corners. Quilt and bind. 14