the handweavers studio

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1 & gallery catalogue & pricelist - specialist yarns (high-twist, stretch, paper, metal, jelly cord...) All prices include VAT at 20% Yarn information Yarn counts can be very confusing. There are so many systems, and often there is no indication which system is being used. We try to spell out in all cases which system applies, but to enable you to compare and to calculate your needs more easily wherever we can we also give the length per metre/yard and the number of diameters (wraps) per centimetre/inch. The following abbreviations are used in the yarn descriptions: ne the English cotton numbering system, based on the number of 840 yd strands per lb nel lea, the English linen numbering system, based on the number of 300 yd strands per lb nm the metric system, based on the number of metres per gram wc worsted count, the most common wool numbering system, based on the number of 560 yd strands per lb den the denier system, based on the weight of 9000 metres tex weight in grams per 1000m length wpc wraps per centimetre wpi wraps per inch 140 Seven Sisters Road London N7 7NS Tel: info@handweavers.co.uk

2 high twist yarns for collapse weaves In our experience the amount of twist in any high-twist yarn can vary considerably even when the precise twist is stated, so sampling is particularly important. For maximum collapse, all these yarns require room to move. They will be less effective if used with yarns much heavier than themselves. high-twist wool 52/2 nm 1180 turns per metre; S twist and Z twist - please specify which you want 26,000 m/kg / 12, wpc / 70 wpi colours: gms gms, gms gms We also have the and in a normal balanced twist gms gms yellow green blue Japanese high-twist wool These singles yarns are the right weight to work with 60/2 nm (or finer) silks or many singles linens. *We are now trying to keep stock of both S and Z twists in all colours in stock, but sometimes this is not possible. Currently dark is available in S twist only. 30/1 nm S twist and Z twist - please specify which you want 1000 turns per metre 30,000 m/kg / 14, wpc / 80 wpi (approx) gms gms light seagreen light khaki dark khaki dark gold dusty rose dark maroon navy deep lavender steel blue mid-grey light grey 60/1nm high-twist cotton Very fine and very lively singles cotton. It looks fragile but the twist makes it quite strong and it has a lovely hand when woven. Different colours in S and Z twist give great possibilities for colour and twist interactions. 60/1 nm 1760 turns per metre 60,000 m/kg / 29, wpc / 100 wpi high-twist merino - Z twist sandgold - Z twist bright - Z twist cerise - Z twist puce - Z twist pale lime - Z twist turtle - Z twist cornflower - Z twist lavender - Z twist white - S and Z twist A soft, woollen-spun, undyed crepe merino 14.5 nm 14,500 m/kg / 7,190 S twist and Z twist - please specify which you want gms gms : colours: gms gms gms gms 50/1nm high-twist cotton 50/1 nm, Z twist, 1,450 turns per metre 50,000 m/kg / 24, gms gms lemon - S twist pale peach - S twist tan - S twist burgundy - S twist grape - S twist elderberry - S twist camel - S twist green - S twist cobalt - S twist - S and Z twist - Z twist yarns - high-twist

3 high-twist yarns (cont) books on collapse weave hard silk crepe 4 x 44 den S twist and Z twist - please specify which you want 55,000 m/kg / 27,500 36wpc / 90 wpi This filament high-twist silk still contains the sericin and can feel scratchy as a result, so pick your weave structure and accompanying yarns with that in mind. It easily forms into little loops - plan for these to be a decorative feature. Available in both S and Z twist. In theory the colour is fugitive, ie it washes out, but to remove it completely you should soak it at 60ª in a solution of 1gm soap and 4cc household ammonia to 1 litre of water gms collapse scarf kits There s something quite magical about using collapse yarns, but you do have to get the warp and weft sett exactly right in order to get the best effect. Our kits give you exact sett instructions, along with enough yarn to weave two skinny scarves or one broader one, depending on your taste and your loom! Kit contents: 6 x 20 gm spools 30/1nm silk in three or four colours (for warp) 1 x 100 gm spool of 52/2 nm high-twist wool (for weft) Colourways: - royal, gentian, magenta with weft - lilac, steel, silver with weft - cyan, blue-green, sage smoke with weft -, fawn, chocolate with weft - yellow, orange, rouge, gunmetal with weft For those who are interested in exploring the fascinating possibilities of collapse yarns beyond the very basics, there are three books which are particularly helpful in explaining the whys and wherefores, dos and don ts, and giving practical advice and suggestions. All three authors were amongst the first weavers to explore the use of high-twist yarns to create collapse effects in handweaving. Weaving Textiles that Shape Themselves Ann Richards An absolute mine of information on high-twist yarns, why they behave the way they do and how to use them, but also a tremendous resource for understanding yarn properties, weave structures, and the interaction between them in general. 25 yarns - high-twist spun silk crepe This is a spun silk, less scratchy than the filament silk crepe in the gum. We think it has been sized to increase its strength. 70/2 nm S twist only 35,000 m/kg / 17, wpc / 96 wpi gms 37 Collapse Weave: Creating three-dimensional cloth Anne Field A clear overview of using collapse and shrink yarns, espcially wool, with a number of specific drafts and instructions for you to try yourself, although some of the yarns specified are only available in New Zealand. Anne is a renowned spinner as well as an internationally known weaver, so not surprisingly her book includes hints on creating your own high-twist yarn for collapse effects Magical Materials to Weave Lotte Dalgaard Lotte covers the use not only of high-twist yarns but also their combination with other magical materials including a number of the special yarns stocked by the Handweavers Studio such as Corneta

4 stretch yarns elastomeric 5 nm 5,000 m/kg / 2,475 A very elastic yarn composed of 81% nylon, 19% lycra. Use a temple to avoid pull-in when you weave (or improvise one by clipping a long thread with a weight at the bottom to either selvedge, and let them hang over the side pieces of the loom) gms white lemon silver college grey rosa fuchsia colcolastic 34/2 nm cotton plus 100/1 lycra 14,500 m/kg / 7,200 Colcolastic is a fine cotton with lycra. Try it in combination with our 30/2 silk or 2/16 cotton for interesting collapse pleat bump effects gms gms marigold 1006 orange 2009 pale lavender 4030 blue 4053 puma stretch viscose 28/2 nm 14,100 m/kg / 7, wpc / 36 wpi 80% viscose with 20% elité. Some stretch when weaving but the real effect comes with steam or when it s tumble-dried and shrinks in to give lots of elasticity gms gms rice sand flax yarns - stretch palamino bottle 2003 royal 4075 cumin coffee dark brown cobalt royal navy other stretch blends maroon purple turquoise pale blue gold viscose + elité ( Body ) 90% viscose, 10% elité polyester. Not very elastic during weaving, but shrinks and becomes elastic with steam or when tumble-dried. Bright white only. 42/2 nm 21,000 m/kg / 10, gms gms dark chestnut 3005 bright pink 3008 dark magenta 3020 rosy brown 3030 coral 3037 burgundy 3039 cyan 4007 powder blue 4008 purple 4024 sage green 5001 turquoise 5033 pale green 5051 emerald green 5052 camel white 7001 grey corn mushroom copper madder antique rose blue frost platinum denim deep teal midnight

5 paper (and paper-like) yarns Japanese paper yarn (koyari) 4mm width, twisted 10,100 m/kg / 5, wpc / 50 wpi Japanese paper yarn - flat 2mm width, untwisted 20,200 m/kg / 10,000 Japanese paper + raw silk 8.8 nm 8,800 m/kg / 4,375 abaca (banana fibre) three strands of banana fibre loosely twisted together to form a lustrous, springy yarn 5 nm 5,000 m/kg / 2, gms gms horsehair + cotton melange horsehair (not the tail or mane hair) spun with cotton to give a springy, wiry yarn. Not a paper, but can be used in many similar ways. 70% horsehair, 30% cotton 7 nm 7,000 m/kg / gms gms viscose-sized Japanese yarns viscose-sized linen unbleached 8 lea (4.8 nm) 4,800 m/kg / 2, wpc / 30 wpi viscose-sized ramie bleached 5 lea (3 nm) 3,000 m/kg / 1,490 9 wpc / 24 wpi viscose-sized ramie bleached 60 lea (36.3 nm) 36,300 m/kg / 18,100 yds/ lb 36wpc / 92 wpi viscose-sized cotton bleached 5 nm 5,000 m/kg / 2,485 8 wpc / 20 wpi viscose-sized cotton bleached 3mm width 1,400 m/kg / 695 viscose-sized Indian silk unbleached 5.4 nm 5,400 m/kg / 2,680 9 wpc / 24 wpi viscose-sized paper similar to the flat Japanese paper, but the viscose sizing gives extra strength 2mm width 9,600 m/kg / 4,770 viscose-sized rayon six strands of rayon twisted together and sized to give a crisp paper-like yarn white with 8.5 nm 8,500 m/kg / 4, wpc / 30 wpi with white wool/paper blends wool and paper carded together before spinning, to give a soft, smooth, strong yarn. Available in, grey, petrol and 6 nm 6,000 m/kg / 2, gms gms yarns - paper & reflective

6 steel & copper blends & wires silk/stainless steel The steel adds memory to the yarn, and a slight sparkle. Effective as a way of fanning out the ends of scarves, for example. 60/2 nm silk plied with 50 micron stainless steel 17,800 m/kg / 8, wpc / 64 wpi : colours: gms gms gms gms deepsea royal blue wool/stainless steel The steel adds memory but the softness of the wool is retained. The sparkle from the steel is a subtle contrast to the matt wool. 48/2 nm wool plied with 50 micron stainless steel 15,800 m/kg / 8, wpc / 56 wpi : colours: gms gms gms gms dark blue colou copper craft wire 0.2 mm gm (175 m) supa clear supa smoked supa green supa emerald supa green chartreuse supa ice blue colou copper craft wire 0.1 mm gms (700 m) gunmetal mid brown warm gold light gold vivid wine yarns - steel & specialist orange teal supa blue bright violet magenta supa lilac dark purple silk/stainless steel - extra fine 82/2 nm; 65% silk, 35% stainless steel 41,000 m/kg / 20, wpc / 64 wpi gms only linen/copper The copper adds some memory. 70% linen, 30% copper 20nm m mini cone blue pale pink peach sage linen/stainless steel 31 nm; 85% linen, 15% stainless steel 31,000 m/kg / 15, wpc / 64 wpi gms supa salmon supa baby pink dark blue vivid green leaf green bamboo/copper Bamboo plied with a fine copper wire which gives the yarn some memory. 67% bamboo, 33% copper 20 nm 20,000 m/kg / 9, gms

7 wires (cont) stainless steel mm m minicone 0.05 mm m minicone 0.1 mm gms spool bare copper wire mm gms (approx 1,420 m) silver-plated copper wire 0.1 mm gms 0.2mm gms cotton-cove copper wire The cotton covering means this wire can be dyed gms textile wire A fine wire that has been specially treated to be flexible for textile purposes m brass-effect copper-effect zinc-effect light-reflective and sparkling yarns lurex a very wide range of colours and types - phone or to find out the options in the colour range you want m fluorescent yarn 100% polyester, extremely fine. Available in orange and green 90 nm 90,000 m/kg / 44, m Corneta MX Irise A pearlescent polyester foil yarn supported externally by two nylon threads 94 nm 94,000 m/kg / 46, m Corneta MX Transparent A transparent polyester foil yarn supported externally by two nylon threads 94 nm 94,000 m/kg / 46, m green orange glow-in-the-dark (thick) Pale green in the light, the phosphorescent coating glows spooky green in the dark 1.12 nm 1,120 m/kg / gms gms glow-in-the-dark (fine) In the light this lok like fine white cotton but it glows an unearlthly pale green in the dark 43/2 ne (approx 35 nm) m mini cone retroreflective yarn (fine) The kind of yarn used in high-vis wear 18nm gms retroreflective yarn (medium) A slightly thicker version, available in gold as well as the more usual silver 0.5 mm diameter m mini-cone silver retroreflective yarn (other thicknesses) Available in silver only extra-fine 1.0 mm 1.5 mm 2.0 mm m mini-cone gold yarns - iridescent and reflective

8 polyester, polyvinyl, polyurethane, PVC etc jet set - copper/ 100% polyester with a metallic look. The copper/ is a little thicker than the grey/ 14.5 nm 14,500 m/kg / 7, gms gms jet set - grey/ 100% polyester with a metallic look. The grey- seems to have almost a bouclé construction nm 18,200 m/kg / gms gms glassino 67% cotton, 33% polyamide 16.8 nm 16,800 m/kg / 8, gms gms gold silver topkapi A flat ribbon yarn in only, 40% wool, 33% polyamide, 27% viscose 2 nm 2,000 m/kg / gms gamma 270 ultra blue A yarn with a slightly papery handle, 83% polyamide, 17% polyurethane 8.2 nm 8,200 m/kg / 4, gms latex-coated cotton 8 wpc / 20 wpi jelly cord 100% polyvinyl cloride (PVC) Colours vary from time to time, but we try to keep a range of strong colors, especially pink, blue, green, purple, orange Varying thicknesses gms rubco 90% polyurethane, 10% polyester, developed for car upholstery approx 2.5 nm approx 2,500 m/kg / 1, gms gms gms white gold monofilament 100% polyamide, available in two deniers and two colours; transparent and smoke 250 & 520 denier gms polyester shrink yarn fine white yarn that shrinks in hot water, Don t steam it or use in water hotter than 90 C, though, or it starts to disappear! 60/2 nm 60,000 m/kg / 29, gms gms solvron (soluble thread) fine white yarn that dissolves completely when washed in hot water. Useful as a support for fragile warp threads, or as a antara dummy weft. 50% polyurethane, 38% cotton, 200 den 12% polyamide. A flat yarn with the look of leather 35,000 m/kg / nm gms gms 5,000 m/kg / 2,480 white pemotex a white yarn that feels a bit like stiff cotton and gets progressively rigid with heat treatment 11.7 nm 11,700 m/kg / 5, gms gms transparent smoke yarns - specialist

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