Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information

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1 इ टरन ट म नक Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public. ज न1 क अ+धक र, ज 1 क अ+धक र Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan The Right to Information, The Right to Live प0र 1 क छ ड न' 5 तरफ Jawaharlal Nehru Step Out From the Old to the New IS (2003): Method of Test for Seam Puckering on Materials Sewan by Industrial Sewing Machines [MED 29: Sewing Machines]! न $ एक न' भ रत क +नम-ण Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda Invent a New India Using Knowledge! न एक ऐस खज न > ज कभ च0र य नहB ज सकत ह ह Bhartṛhari Nītiśatakam Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen

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5 Sewing Machines Sectional Committee, ME 29 FOREWORD This Indian Standard was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by the Sewing Machines Sectional Committee had been approved by the Mechanical Engineering Division CounciL This standard is one of the series of standards prepared to rationalize the method of tests for industrial sewing math ines. This standard specifies-the method of tests, measurement and calculation for seam puckering on the materials sewn by single needle straight lock stitch industrial sewing machine and industrial over edge sewing machines under natural conditions. Other standards in this series are: 1s 15313:2002 IS 15314:2002 Method of test for vibration measurement industrial sewing machines Method of tests for tightness and balance of stitches on seam, sewn by industrial sewing machines In preparation of this standard, assistance has been derived from the following standard issued by the Japanese Industrial Standard Committee: JIS B 55:1986 Testing methods for seam puckering on material sewn by industrial sewing machines. In reporting the results of a test or analysis made in accordance with this standard, if the final value, observed or calcu Iated, is to be rounded off, it shall be done in accordance with IS 2: 1960 Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised.

6 1S 15312:2003 Indian Standard METHOD OF TEST FOR SEAM PUCKERING ON MATERIALS SEWN BY INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES 1 SCOPE This standard specifies the method of tests for seam puckering on materials sewn by single needle straight lock stitch industrial sewing machine and industrial edge sewing machine (hereafter referred to as the sewing machines). 2 DEFINITIONS For the purpose of this standard the following definitions shall apply. 2.1 Sewing Machine The sewing machine means the set of table, sewing machine head, legs and driving arrangement. 2.2 Material Puckering The condition of sewn materials shrinked along the seam line by sewing. It is expressed by sewing shrinkage rate. 2.3 Uneven Material Feeding The condition where slippage between the mutually overlapped sewn materials is generated by sewing. It is expressed by sewing slippage rate. 3 TEST METHODS 3.1 Test Method for Seam Puckering by Industrial Single-Needle Straight Lock Stitch Sewing Machine Preparation of Test Piece Make the size of test piece 90 mm in width, 500 mm in length, attach the measuring length marks at an interval of 300 mm as shown in Fig. 1 respectively on upper side and lower side test pieces, make the material overlapped with two sheets as one set, prepare five sets and use for seam puckering test Testing Operation Take into consideration the sewing work conditions of each following item, and relating to test pieces of five sets sewn along the sewing portion of Fig. 1.When having sewn with deviating from the measuring length mark, perform again. The installation of sewing machine is to be so stabilized that vibrations do not give interference to sewing. The operation of the sewing machine is to be carried out so as to quickly reach the specific number of revolutions from stopping conditions. The sewing overlap condition of sewing threads shall satisfy the use and object in actual sewing. For thetest piece without applying excessive force from the outside part, it is to be sewn from its front end up to rear end Measuring Method and Calculating Method After sewing, place the test piece on a flat stand, under the natural condition as it is, measure the measuring length section shown in Fig. 1 by using a scale of 0.5 mm accuracy Calculate the seam puckering rate according to the foliowing formulae, and obtain the average value of five sets of test pieces (to one place of decimal): 300-LU P = 300 x 100 P, = 300- L, x E where pu = p,= LU= L,= E= Lu L, = x material piece ( Yo), puckering material puckering pieces (??), rate of upper rate of lower side test side test length of measuring length section of upper side test piece after sewing in mm, length of measuring length section of lower side test piece after sewing in mm, and uneven material feeding rate ( %.). NOTES I The case where the material puckering rate is minus means elongation. 2 The case where uneven material feeding rate is minus means that the shrinkage of upper side test piece is larger than the shrinkage of lower side test piece. 3.2 Testing Method for Seam Puckering on Materials Sewn by Industrial Edge Sewing Machine Preparation of Test Piece Make the size of test piece 90 mm in width, 500 mm in length, attach the measuring length marks at an interval of 300 mm as shown in Fig. 2 respectively on upper 1

7 IS 15312:2003 side and lower side test pieces, make the material overlapped with two sheets as one set, prepare five sets and use for seam puckering test Testing Operation Take into consideration the sewing work conditions of following each item, and relating to test pieces of five sets along the sewing portion of Fig. 2. When the measuring length mark is broken and the measuring of length is impossible, perform again. The installation of sewing machine is to be so stabilized that vibrations do not give interference to sewing. The operation of the sewing machine is to be carried out so as to quickly reach the specific number of revolutions from stopping conditions. The sewing overlap condition of sewing threads shall satisfy the use and object in actual sewing. For the test piece without applying excessive force from the outside part, it isto be sewn from its front end up to rear end Measuring Method and Calculating Method After sewing, place the test piece on a flat stand, under the natural condition as it is, measure the SEWING PORTION MEASURING LENGTH MARK T/l MEASURING LENGTH MARK >0 pj 500 All dimensionsin millimetrem FIG. 1 TEST PIECEOF INDUSTRIALSINGLE-NEEDLESTRAIGHT LOCK STITCHSEWINGMACHINE SEWING PORTION MEASURING LENGTH MARK MEASURING LENGTH MARK,0 r 90 MEASURING LENGTH SECTION \ FIG. 2 All dimensions in millimetres. TEST PIECEOF INDUSTRIALEDGE SEWINGMACHINE 2

8 IS 15312:2003 measuring length section shown in Fig. 2 by using a scale of 0.5 mm in accuracy Calculate the seam puckering rate according to formulae given in , and obtain the average value of five sets of test pieces (to one place of decimal). 4 RECORD OF TEST RESULTS The test results of seam puckering on materials shall be marked with (a) to (d) and, as required, with (e). a) Material puckering rate and uneven material feeding rate. b) Date of test. c) Class and type of sewing machine used for test. d) Materials: i) Class of material used for test piece (as required, append the sample), and ii) Class of sewing thread used. e) Test Conditions: i) Overlapping method of test piece (surface, back and direction), ii) Stitch style, iii) iv) v) vi) Feed pitch and in industrial hem sewing machine the hem stitching width, Number of revolutions of sewing machine, Thread tensile force of needle thread, bobbin thread or looper thread (see Note 1), Strength of thread take-up spring (see Note 2), vii) viii) ix) x) xi) xii) xiii) NOTES Class of needle and number of needle (number of thickness of needle stem), Dimensions of throat hole of throat plate, Classof pressure foot, Force of pressure foot, Class of feed dog and roughness of dog, Height of feed dog, and Differential feed dog. 1 rhethreadtensileforce of needle thread of industrial single needle straight lock stitch sewing machine means of tensile force to take out upward the thread by applying the thread guard bending bar from tension disc at the stopping machine. time of sewing The thread tensile force of bobbin thread means the tensile force to take out upward in indication the thread from needle hole of throat plate. Further, in order to make the bobbin thread not to contact with rotating hook, measure under the condition where the needle bar is nearly at upper dead point. The thread tensile forcesof needle thread and looper thread of industrial sewing machine means the tensile force to take out the thread in the advancing direction of thread from tension disc passing through the thread guide at the time of stopping of sewing machine. 2 Strength of thread take-up spring means the tensile force when starting of displacement of thread take-up spring by pulling upward with hanging the needle thread on thread take-up spring and thread guard bending bar.

9 Bureau of Indian Standards BIS is a statutory institution established under the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986 to promote harmonious development of the activities of standardization, marking and quality certification of goods and attending to connected matters in the country. Copyright BIS has the copyright of all itspublications. No part of these publications maybe reproduced in any form without the prior permission in writing of BIS. This does not preclude the free use, in the course of implementing -the standard, of necessary details, such as symbols and sizes, type or grade designations. Enquiries relating to copyright be addressed to the Director (Publications), BIS. Review of Indian Standards Amendments are issued to standards as the need arises on the basis of comments. Standards are also reviewed periodically; a standard along with amendments is reaffirmed when such review indicates that no changes are needed; if the review indicates that changes are needed, it is taken up for revision. Users of Indian Standards should ascertain that they are in possession of the latest amendments or edition by referring to the latest issue of BIS Catalogue and Standards: Monthly Additions. This Indian Standard has been developed from DOCNo. :ME 29/LM 18 ( 0435 ) Amendments Issued Since Publication Amend No Date of Issue Text Affected Headquarters : BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS Manak Bhavan, 9 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi Telephones : , , Telegrams : Manaksanstha (Common to all offices) Regional Offices : Central Eastern : Manak Bhavan, 9 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg NEW DELHI : 1/14 C.I.T. Scheme VII M, V. I. P. Road, Kankurgachi KOLKATA Northern : SCO , Sector 34-A, CHANDIGARH Southern : C.I.T. Campus, IV Cross Road, CHENNAI Western Branches : : Manakalaya, E9 MIDC, Marol, Andheri (East) MUMBAI Telephone , , , , , , AHMEDABAD. BANGALORE. BHOPAL. BHUBANESHWAR. COIMBATORE. FARIDABAD. GHAZIABAD. GUWAHATI. HYDERABAD. JAIPUR. KANPUR. LUCKNOW. NAGPUR. NALAGARH. PATNA. PUNE. RAJKOT. THIRUVANANTHAPURAM. Printed at Simco Printing Press, Delhi