Opportunities and Constraints of the Needle Leno Technology
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1 Opportunities and Constraints of the Needle Leno Technology ir Geert De Clercq ing Gregory Haezebrouck, Hannelore Biebau Prof. Dr. ir Lieva Van Langenhove, Dr. ir Simona Vasile Ghent, 25th February 2010
2 Textile Technology Advanced Production Facility Fancy Yarns Leno 3D on Multirapier Spinning Technical Yarns Wearable electronics Weaving Knitting Contact: ir Geert De Clercq Phone: +32/9/
3 Textile Finishing Rent a Lab!!"#$%&$!!!'$%()!(*+,*((),*+!!!-$+*(.)/*!0123(),*+!!!4/$5*+!6!'$&,*$5/*!,*7#8!!!9:;7/$5*+!!!</.!-(#.!=%#/.!>,(?!%1)$@A!!!B,+,.$#!C(7D*/#/+,(%!!!"),*5*+?!4/$5*+!
4 Advantages of Needle Leno " Increased speed ( ppm+) " Simple technology " Reduced warp tension
5 Substituting Technology " Heddle leno " Warp knitting " Standard weaving
6 Opportunities " Increased productivity " Engineered stress-strain diagram " Dimensional stable fabrics " Gauze fabrics for special uses " Curtains and upholstery fabrics " Floor covering
7 Constraints " Technology-related teething troubles " Reduced patterning possibilities " Lack of scientific know-how " Measuring standard for resistance to shifting
8 Gauze Fabrics " Grid fabric in PP-tape (secondary backing) " Single warp beam
9 Gauze Fabrics " Grid fabric in PP-tape (secondary backing) " Single warp beam " Tension difference between straight and crossing warp " Solution = double backrest (?)
10 Use of Twin Beams " Opportunities " Different yarns for straight and crossing ends " Different tension for both warp systems
11 Engineering Stress-Strain Stress Strain
12 Engineering Stress-Strain Stress Strain
13 Improved Dimensional Stability " Standard woven fabrics " Decrease of crimp in stretched direction " Increase of crimp in perpendicular direction " Inward bending " Leno fabrics with tension variation in warp " No crimp in straight ends " No crimp variation in straight ends " No crimp variation in weft " No bending
14 Improved Dimensional Stability " Standard woven fabrics
15 Improved Dimensional Stability " Leno fabrics with tension variation in warp
16 Improved Dimensional Stability " Leno fabrics with tension variation in warp
17 Gauze Fabrics " PVC-coated yarns
18 Gauze Fabrics " Result: semi-transparant printable fabrics
19 Gauze Fabrics " Result: semi-transparant printable fabrics
20 Curtains and Interior Fabrics " Lightweight fabrics (curtains) " Weft patterning: " Weft density " Weft yarns
21 Curtains and Interior Fabrics " Lightweight fabrics (curtains) with additional fancy yarn
22 Curtains and Interior Fabrics " Upholstery fabrics (chenille)
23 Curtains and Interior Fabrics " Upholstery fabrics (chenille)
24 Curtains and Interior Fabrics " Upholstery fabrics with weft patterning
25 Curtains and Interior Fabrics " Upholstery fabrics with weft patterning
26 Sunscreens " Coated glass in straight warp " PES in crossing warp " Bending of glass yarns to be avoided
27 Lenocarpet " Flat woven textile floor covering " Coarse monofilament in straight warp " Fine multifilament in crossing warp " Possibility for fancy yarns in weft " Warp stripes possible via crossing warps " Very light weight, less than 600 g/m 2
28 Settings " Pilot bar Needle bar Reed to be aligned perfectly " Especially critical with higher warp density " No crossing of warp ends " Needles can damage filaments
29 Settings " Pilot bar Needle bar Reed to be aligned perfectly " Especially critical with higher warp density " No crossing of warp ends " Needles can damage filaments
30 Conclusion " Needle Leno " Faster! higher yield " Simple and user friendly }! New applications Lot of know-how yet to discover! more research needed Teething troubles to be cured (Needle) Leno = Emerging Technology
31 Acknowledgments " IWT Vlaanderen for the Financial Funding of IWT Tetra " University College Ghent for the Funding of IOF Lenotapijt " University College Ghent: # Gregory Haezebrouck, Tom Martens, Filip Ghekiere, Hannelore Biebau, Leen Allaert, Bianca Smet, Laurent Verbrugge, Kurt Gabriël, Willy De Bruyne " University Ghent: # Lieva Van Langenhove, Joris Degrieck, Simona Vasile, Johanna Louwagie, Jeanine De Somer, Didier Vandaele " Industrial Partners
32
33 QUESTIONS?
34
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