MALAWI & SOUTHERN ZAMBIA

Transcription

1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Southern Zambia MALAWI & SOUTHERN ZAMBIA African Pitta and much more Saturday 20th November Saturday 11th December 2010 (22 days) Zimbabwe Extension to Tuesday 14th December (3 days) Leader: Nik Borrow Group Size Limit: 9 flowers and the views across the Great Rift Valley are stunningly beautiful with hazy blue mountain inselbergs looming above the distant horizon. Deep in the interior of Central Africa lies Zambia, a huge, stable and friendly country that straddles the Spine of Africa, the barely perceptible watershed separating the vast basins of the Zambezi and the Congo. Although well known for its prolific big game and spectacular scenery, Zambia has a bird species list of over 750 that embraces many exciting birds, including a range of endemics and other localized specialities that are impossible or extremely difficult to see elsewhere on the continent. Within the borders of this amazing country sprawls a sparsely inhabited landscape. This exciting trip will give us a great taste of the southern region of the country, taking in open mopane woodlands and dense, dark evergreen mushitus (forests), wide floodplains and dambos (marshes), and of course the mighty Zambezi and the incredible Victoria Falls. Our explorations in Malawi will take us initially from Lilongwe, the capital, to the pristine miombo of African Pitta (Nik Borrow) Malawi, a small narrow country bordered by Zambia, Mozambique and Tanzania is best known for its vast lake, the third largest in Africa, but from a birding viewpoint it remains one of Africa s best kept secrets. It is not Lake Malawi that draws the birder to this warm heart of Africa but the rich upland forests and extensive miombo woodlands. Within this small country habitat diversity is carried to an extreme and as a direct consequence Malawi boasts a bird list of over 600 species recorded from a comparatively small area. For anyone used to birding in the drier regions of Southern Africa, Malawi s avifauna is very different. Due to its inland location and small size it does not possess any true endemics, but this easy-going country does have many spectacular or fascinating species which are more readily found here than in any other part of Africa. The two major habitats we will cover during our visit are miombo and montane forest, and both of these provide exciting birding. Miombo (or Brachystegia) woodland must rate as one of Africa s most interesting birding habitats. It can be very quiet at times, but once an active and noisy bird party is found moving through this open woodland the adrenalin will be working overtime on even the most seasoned birdwatcher. Here one finds drongos and tits leading the bird parties whilst cuckoos, woodhoopoes, woodpeckers, orioles, thrushes, warblers, flycatchers, creepers and weavers follow closely behind. The montane forest is no less exciting with tantalizingly exotic calls emanating from thick tangles where alethes, robins and thrushes are lurking. Travel in Malawi is a constant pleasure as the roads are good, the highlands are bordered by forests or by grasslands sprinkled with a wide variety of alpine-like

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Southern Zambia Dzalanyama, where we will be looking in particular for Pale-billed Hornbill, Whyte s Barbet, the rare Stierling s Woodpecker, Miombo Grey and Cinnamon-bellied Tits, Miombo Rock Thrush, Central Bearded Robin, the restricted-range Boulder Chat, Red-capped Crombec, Stierling s Barred Warbler, the strange Böhm s Flycatcher, Souza s Shrike, Red-and-blue (or Anchieta s) Sunbird and even the uncommon Shelley s Sunbird, and Stripe-breasted and Black-eared Canaries. Next we will visit the highland forests of the far south. The Cholo (or Thyolo) Alethe, a near-endemic that also occurs just over the border in neighbouring Mozambique, occurs in this habitat where it is restricted to small isolated patches of montane forest: seeing this secretive species will present one of the challenges of the tour. We will also search for the gorgeous White-winged Apalis (perhaps Africa s most beautiful warbler), Yellowthroated Apalis, Malawi Batis, Green-headed Oriole, and Orange Ground Thrush: all birds with restricted ranges. As we return northwards Böhm s Bee-eaters (Nik Borrow) we will explore the wide, meandering Shire River which drains Lake Malawi at its southern extremity and eventually joins up with the mighty Zambezi. The river cuts through expanses of mopane woodland and open palm savanna and creates wide floodplains rich in game and waterbirds. To drift downstream on a launch in the twilight listening to the night sounds taking over whilst searching the banks for a Pel s Fishing Owl or White-backed Night heron is truly one of the delights of Africa and all this with a sundowner in the other hand! Here too are such spectacular birds as Racket-tailed Roller and Böhm s Bee-eater. Heading still further north, we come to the enormous Lake Malawi where Narina Trogons and elusive Gunning s Robins inhabit the remnant patches of evergreen forest along the shoreline. At the northern end of the lake is the Nyika Plateau, an almost tundra-like area of upland dotted with forests, small lakes and marshes that is part of the western rim of the Great Rift Valley. The endangered Blue Swallow is easy to see here and we shall also be looking for Denham s Bustard, Oliveheaded Greenbul, Blacklored and Churring Cisticolas, the stunning Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird, Ludwig s Double-collared Sunbird, Mountain Widowbird and the restricted-range Yellowbrowed Seedeater, as well as some skulking inhabitants of the forest such as Oliveflanked Robin, Sharpe s Akalat, White-chested Alethe and Chapin s Apalis. To end up our travels through Malawi, a visit to the Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve offers a good chance of seeing the unique Whitewinged Babbling Starling and Chestnut-backed Sparrow- Weaver. We will begin our journey through southern Zambia in the area around Livingstone and the famous falls, for here in the southwest can be found the endangered Black-cheeked Lovebird, an endemic species that only questionably straggles into neighbouring countries. Moving on, we shall stay at one of the cattle ranches of the Kafue basin with its large, spreading fig trees that support Zambia s only other endemic, the striking Chaplin s Barbet. We shall then head east, into the Zambezi Valley on the shores of Lake Kariba, where we have an excellent chance of finding that true avian gem, the stunning and muchsought-after African Pitta, whose breeding season should just be beginning with the onset of the rains. During the optional extension there will be an opportunity to visit the beautiful Vumba Highlands of Zimbabwe, home to Swynnerton s Robin, Chirinda Apalis and Roberts s Warbler, three near-endemic specialities that are shared only with neighbouring Mozambique, as well as Gurney s Sugarbird and Buffspotted Flufftail. Birdquest has operated tours to Malawi (and to Zimbabwe) since Itinerary Day 1 Evening flight from London bound for Lilongwe. Day 2 Afternoon arrival at Lilongwe for an overnight stay. A short drive from our hotel, situated in the New Town, is the Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary and we will spend a little time birding in this area. The reserve consists primarily of fairly thick bushveld, riverine forest and mixed miombo woodland with more open areas around rocky bluffs and some quiet backwaters. Along the river we may flush a Black-crowned Night Heron and should see Hamerkop and Hadeda Ibis. The skulking Tropical Boubou occurs in the riverine thickets, whilst overhanging branches and reeds hold a multitude of nesting Spottedbacked and Southern Masked Weavers. In the treetops stunning Schalow s Turaco utter their raucous cries and Red-eyed and Tambourine Doves chant monotonously while Blue Waxbill and the brightly coloured Red-throated Twinspot forage quietly on the ground and Hildebrandt s Francolins call from the dense undergrowth. In the thicker tangles we should hear the strange noise made by the African Broadbill during its remarkable clockwork-toy-like display and we will try to get a good look at this amazing avian spectacle. Other species we may find here are Cardinal Woodpecker, Fork-tailed Drongo, Pied Crow, Darkcapped Bulbul, Kurrichane Thrush, White-browed Robin-Chat, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Tawny-flanked Prinia, African Paradise Flycatcher, Orange-breasted Bush Shrike and Variable, Eastern Olive, Scarlet-chested and Collared Sunbirds. Day 3 Early this morning we will drive westwards towards the Zambian border and the vast forest reserve of Dzalanyama for an overnight stay. Within the Dzalanyama reserve is one of the largest

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Southern Zambia expanses of pristine miombo woodland remaining in Africa. The woodland covers the low lying flat areas and ranges from rich evergreen forest along the rivers to climax Brachystegia forest on the slopes of the hills. The reserve is not rich in mammals but what might be lacking in terms of large herds of game is certainly made up for by a host of birds, many of them miombo endemics. At this time of year most birds will be actively breeding whilst the very big bird parties so characteristic of this habitat will just be forming. Early morning sounds emanating from the forest will include a chorus of Cape Turtle and Emerald-spotted Wood Doves and perhaps the lion-like calls of Southern Ground Hornbills, but we will be concentrating on finding species such as the localized Pale-billed Hornbill and the rare Stierling s Woodpecker. If we can find some flowering proteas we may find an array of sunbirds that could include Miombo Double-collared, Coppery, Black and Violet-backed, and hopefully the gorgeous Anchieta s (or Red-and-blue) or even the uncommon Shelley s. Other miombo specialities here include Whyte s Barbet, Miombo Grey and Cinnamon-breasted Tits, Miombo Rock Thrush, Pel s Fishing Owl (Nik Borrow) Central Bearded Robin, Redcapped Crombec, Stierling s Barred Warbler, the strange Böhm s Flycatcher, Souza s Shrike and Stripe-breasted and Black-eared Canaries, and we shall hope to find most of them during our explorations. Even the rare and localized Olive-headed Weaver occurs here, although we would need much luck to see it. By walking through the woodlands we might find Coqui Francolin or the magnificent Pennant-winged Nightjar, which can sometimes be flushed from the short grass. Sometimes the birds fly only a short distance and can then be admired in full view. We will also climb one of the forested kopjes where we stand a good chance of finding the restricted range Boulder Chat and the distinctive Striped Pipit. Other birds likely to be seen in this habitat include Cuckoo-Hawk, Wahlberg s Eagle, Lizard Buzzard, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Shikra, Gymnogene (or African Harrier-Hawk), African Green Pigeon, Meyer s Parrot, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Broad-billed Roller, Black-collared Barbet, Yellowfronted Tinkerbird, Greater, Scaly-throated, Lesser and Slender-billed Honeyguides, Little Spotted and Bearded Woodpeckers, Eastern Sawwing, White-breasted Cuckoo- Shrike, African Golden Oriole, Spotted Creeper, Arrow-marked Babbler, Yellow-breasted and Mashona Hyliotas, Red-faced Crombec, Green-capped Eremomela, Lazy and Short-winged Cisticolas, Red-winged Warbler, Dusky and Blue-grey Flycatchers, Chinspot Batis, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Black-backed Puffback, Black-crowned Tchagra, Greyheaded Bush Shrike, White and Red-billed Helmetshrikes, Violet-backed Starling, Yellow White-eye, Yellow-throated Petronia, Red-headed Weaver, Blue-billed Firefinch, Redbacked Mannikin, Yellowfronted Canary and Cabanis s Bunting. Day 4 We will spend most of the day at Dzalanyama before returning to Lilongwe for an overnight stay. Day 5 Today we will drive south towards Zomba. We will stop for a while above the old town of Zomba to search a forested gulley for the extremely localized White-winged Apalis. This beautifully-coloured apalis with its exceptionally long tail and conspicuous white wing patches is one of the most attractive African warblers. From here we will drive on the winding road which takes us to the summit of the Zomba Plateau, taking in some breathtaking scenery as we go. Far below is Lake Chilwa whilst to the southeast are the isolated massif of Mulanje Mountain and Mozambique in the far distance. In the montane grasslands and in some of the forest patches we may find African Black Duck, Long-crested Eagle, Olive Pigeon, Livingstone s Turaco, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Square-tailed Drongo, White-necked Raven, Stripe-cheeked Greenbul, Evergreen Forest Warbler, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, the localized Yellow-throated Apalis (split from Bar-throated), Black-headed Apalis, Whitetailed Crested Flycatcher, Long-tailed Wagtail, Forest Double-collared Sunbird (split from Eastern) and, if we are fortunate, the attractive Olive Bush Shrike or the localized Bertram s (or Bertrand s) Weaver. Later we will leave the Zomba Plateau to travel further south towards Blantyre, where we will stay for two nights. Day 6 On the escarpment east of Blantyre lies a small range known as the Cholo (or Thyolo) Mountains. At one time these mountains were extensively covered with dense forest but most of this has been cleared and replaced with vast tea plantations which are almost devoid of birds. There are small islands of natural forest left, however, and on one ridge there is still a sizeable area of forest remaining. Today we will visit this exciting area which holds a good variety of forest birds including the nearendemic Cholo (or Thyolo) Alethe. Never easy at the best of times (it always seems to skulk in the darkest thickets), we can only hope that it may be found attending an ant swarm or be coaxed into view as it sometimes responds to mimicry. However, with many other species to look for we shall certainly be kept busy. At the forest edge we have a second opportunity to look for the superb White-winged Apalis. White-eared Barbets call from the treetops and on entering the forest the liquid calls of Green-headed Orioles and easily recognizable Hello Georgie of the African Emerald Cuckoo come drifting through the trees, while Bar-tailed Trogons respond rapidly to an imitation of their whistling call. Other birds to be found in the forest include Olive Woodpecker, Cabanis s, Yellow-streaked and Little Green Bulbuls, Mountain Thrush (split from Olive), Starred, Natal and Cape Robins, Malawi Batis (split from Cape), Mozambique Batis, Black-fronted Bush Shrike, Forest Weaver, Common Waxbill and, if we

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Southern Zambia are lucky, Green Twinspot. Day 7 This morning we will drive from Blantyre to Liwonde National Park for a two nights stay. We will spend the afternoon and early evening birding the river banks from a motor launch. The Shire river, which drains Lake Malawi and flows south to join the mighty Zambezi, courses its way past the large Liwonde National Park. As we slowly make our way along the river during the last part of the day, the evocative cries of the African Fish Eagle echoes through the air and we should encounter large flocks of birds flying to roost on dead trees lining the banks. Amongst the hundreds of Long-tailed and White-breasted Cormorants, and Great, Little and Intermediate (or Yellow-billed) Egrets we may see flocks of African Open-billed Storks, a few Striated (or Green-backed) Herons, Black-crowned Night Herons, Sacred Ibises and perhaps a Saddle-billed Stork and some African Darters. Countless Cattle Egrets follow the herds of African Elephants drinking at the rivers edge whilst Squacco Herons, Black Egrets, Water Dikkops, White-fronted, Kittlitz s and Three-banded Plovers, and Wattled, Blacksmith, Spur-winged and Long-toed Lapwings rest on the sand bars along with White-faced Whistling Ducks, Knob-billed Ducks, Spur-winged Geese and Grey-headed Gulls. If White-winged Apalis (Nik Borrow) the water levels are right, the bizarre African Skimmer may be present. As twilight approaches and the first bats flit about over the reeds snapping up insects they may in turn be picked out of the air by Eurasian Hobbies. Hundreds of hippos and impressive Nile Crocodiles inhabit this mighty river. As it gets dark we can spotlight the banks in the hope of seeing a White-backed Night Heron or a Pel s Fishing Owl. Day 8 Liwonde National Park encompasses part of the Shire River and the southernmost portion of Lake Malombe. The dominant vegetation is mopane woodland; dry and sparse in some areas but much denser in the wetter regions closer to the river. In times of flood the Shire River spills over to form extensive grassy plains in the open areas with thick stands of reeds surrounding isolated pools that provide a haven for African Jacanas. Closer to the river are long stretches of Borassus palm savanna, whilst on the steeper banks of the river thick tangles of vegetation harbour warblers and weavers and provide perching places for Malachite, Brown-hooded, Pied and Giant Kingfishers. Amongst this varied habitat stand enormous baobab trees, convoluted and riddled with crevices and holes. The park is full of large mammals and here African Elephant and Waterbuck are common and we should also find Yellow Baboon, Vervet Monkey, Warthog, Impala and, with luck, the handsome Sable. Birds are prolific and where we are staying, at Mvuu Lodge, the local guides usually know where a Pel s Fishing Owl is roosting, so that we will most likely be able to admire this huge orange owl in daylight! We will be able to explore the park on foot and by open-topped vehicles that are perfect for birdwatching. Colourful Lilian s Lovebirds and Brown-headed Parrots present little problem to see and beautiful Böhm s Beeeaters and Collared Palm Thrushes are garden birds, but Racket-tailed Roller, the striking Brown-breasted Barbet, Arnott s Chat and the lovely Livingstone s Flycatcher may require a bit more searching for. Raptors such as Martial Eagle, Western Banded Snake Eagle and Palmnut Vulture occur here and in the palms we should find the dainty Dickinson s Kestrel and Red-necked Falcon. In the dry wooded valleys we might encourage a small African Barred Owlet to make an appearance. Other species regularly encountered in the park include Black-headed Heron, White-backed Vulture, Yellowbilled Kite, African Hawk Eagle, Brown Snake Eagle, Bateleur, Little Sparrowhawk, African Goshawk, African Marsh Harrier, Osprey, Rednecked Spurfowl, Helmeted Guineafowl, Purple-crested Turaco, Grey Go-away- Bird, Klaas s Cuckoo, Green and Burchell s Coucals, Mozambique Nightjar, African Palm Swift, Red-faced Mousebird, Striped Kingfisher, Little and Swallow-tailed Beeeaters, Lilac-breasted Roller, Red-billed Woodhoopoe, Common Scimitarbill, Trumpeter, Crowned, African Grey and Southern Red-billed Hornbills, Crested Barbet, Reichenow s and Goldentailed Woodpeckers, Flappet Lark, Wire-tailed Swallow, Southern Black Tit, Terrestrial, Sombre and Yellow-bellied Bulbuls, Yellow-spotted Nicator, Little Rush Warbler, Long-billed Crombec, Greybacked Camaroptera, Rattling Cisticola, Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Black-throated Wattle-eye, African Pied Wagtail, Yellowthroated Longclaw, Brubru, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Meves s and Greater Blueeared Starlings, Red-billed Oxpecker, White-bellied Sunbird, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Spectacled, Golden, Southern Brown-throated and Lesser Masked Weavers, Firecrowned Bishop, Greenwinged Pytilia, Jameson s and Red-billed Firefinches, Bronze Mannikin and Paradise Whydah. Day 9 Today we will drive north along the shores of Lake Malawi to Chintheche for an overnight stay, stopping for anything of interest we see along the way. Here one can choose to swim in the lake or bird around the hotel where we should find Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Lesser Striped Swallow, Purple-banded Sunbird and Yellow Weaver. Day 10 Before leaving the area we will make a short visit to some thick tropical forest choked with vines and creepers adjacent to the lake. Our target here will be to see the endemic race of the East Coast Akalat (or Gunning s Robin) and we may also find the glorious Narina Trogon. From Chintheche we will wend our way over the escarpment for the drive north to the highest reaches of Malawi, the Nyika Plateau, where we will stay for the next three nights. As we enter the park we will start seeing a new selection of birds and animals amidst some breathtaking scenery. Days Our time will be spent searching the grassland, forests and marshes of the broad Nyika Plateau, both on the Malawian and Zambian sides of the border. Herds of majestic Roan Antelopes

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Southern Zambia roam the plateau alongside groups of Reedbuck while shy Bushbuck venture forth from the forest to graze and Bushpigs and Side-striped Jackals are occasionally glimpsed. Here the stately Denham s Bustard wanders over grasslands where we will also search for the rare Wattled Crane. Brilliant but endangered Blue Swallows present little problem to see as they fly low over the open hills and bracken- and briarcovered valleys where Blacklored and Churring Cisticolas are common and even easy to identify with their distinctive songs and plumages. and we will be on the lookout for the restricted-range Yellowbrowed Seedeater (split from Streaky). At patches of flowering proteas we shall check the sunbirds carefully for, as well as Ludwig s Double-collared (split from Greater), Bronze and Malachite, we will be hoping to see the equally impressive Scarlet-tufted Malachite. In the wetter areas we should find Mountain Widowbird in breeding plumage complete with some very impressive tails. We will want to spend most of the mornings inside some magnificent montane forest where we will be concentrating on finding more secretive forest birds such as Olive-flanked Robin, Orange Ground Thrush, the striking White-chested Wattled Cranes (Michael Hodgson) Alethe, Sharpe s Akalat, the localized Chapin s Apalis and Fülleborn s Black Boubou. At night Rwenzori Nightjars can be seen around our chalets and other species we should see include Yellowbilled Duck, Augur Buzzard, Black and Rufous-chested Sparrowhawks, Montagu s and Pallid Harriers, Blackbreasted Snake Eagle, Crowned Eagle, Black-bellied Bustard, Dusky Turtle Dove, Scarce Swift, Moustached Green Tinkerbird, Rufousnaped Lark, White-headed Saw-wing, Red-rumped and Angola Swallows, African Hill Babbler, Mountain Yellow Warbler, Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, Ayres s and Wailing Cisticolas, Brown Parisoma, Brown-headed Apalis, Whiteeyed Slaty Flycatcher, African Pipit, Waller s and Slenderbilled Red-winged Starlings, Baglafecht Weaver, Yellowbellied Waxbill, and Yellowcrowned and Brimstone Canaries. Day 13 We will leave the Nyika Plateau today and drive to Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve, an area of superb miombo and dry bush country at the base of the plateau, for an overnight stay. Here we will search for two species rarely seen outside Zambia and Angola. These are the localized White-winged Babbling Starling, a strange bird in a monotypic genus that looks more like a cross between a babbler and a helmetshrike than a starling, and the striking Chestnutbacked Sparrow-Weaver. We also stand a good chance of finding Miombo Pied Barbet as well as having another chance to see some of those other miombo specialities again. Day 14 After some final birding at Vwaza Marsh we will drive back to Lilongwe, travelling over the Viphya Mountains (sadly now mainly a huge pine plantation) and stopping to look for any birds of interest en route. We should have time to visit a dambo that, if conditions are right, may hold Rosebreasted Longclaw and African Quailfinch, as well as an assortment of bishops and widowbirds. This afternoon we will catch a flight to Lusaka for an overnight stay. Day 15 This morning we will take a short flight to flight to Livingstone, situated on the Zambian bank of the Zambezi River at Victoria Falls. On arrival we shall drive through the Mosi-oa-Tunya Game Park that flanks the town in order to reach our comfortable lodge, idyllically situated on the banks of the Zambezi, for a two nights stay. The lodge has a jetty affording views across the waters to the mammal-rich Zambezi National Park on the Zimbabwean side of the river, where large numbers of African Elephants can be watched coming down to the waterside to drink in the evening. Around the lodge we can familiarize ourselves with some of the more common species such as Long-tailed Cormorant, African Darter, Black-crowned Night Heron, Squacco Heron, Western Cattle, Little, Yellow-billed and Great Egrets, Hamerkop, African Openbill, Hadada Ibis, White-faced Whistling Duck, Egyptian and Spurwinged Geese, African Pygmy Goose, Yellow-billed Kite, African Fish Eagle, Black Crake, African Jacana, Water Thick-knee, Rock Pratincole, White-headed Lapwing, Common Sandpiper, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Red-eyed and Ringnecked Doves, African Palm and White-rumped Swifts, Brown-hooded, Malachite and Pied Kingfishers, Little Bee-eater, Sand Martin (or Bank Swallow), Wire-tailed and Barn Swallows, African Pied Wagtail, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Dark-capped Bulbul, White-browed Robin-Chat, Lesser Swamp Warbler, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Grey-backed Camaroptera, African Paradise Flycatcher, Arrow-marked Babbler, Black-backed Puffback, Pied Crow, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Southern Masked Weaver, Blue Waxbill, Red-billed Firefinch, Bronze Mannikin and Yellow-fronted Canary. At night we may find Pearl-spotted Owlet, African Wood Owl and Square-tailed Nightjar. Day 16 We shall leave early this morning and head westwards before leaving the White-winged Babbling Starlings (Nik Borrow)

6 6 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Southern Zambia good tarmac for bumpy dirt roads that cross the sandy cotton soils and enter into the mopane woodlands that are home to the Black-cheeked Lovebird. This delightful little parrot is a Zambian endemic, as any valid records outside the country are now thought to refer either to vagrants or else to feral birds. The species particularly favours mopane woodland and it has a patchy distribution in southwestern Zambia, being restricted to an area between the Zambezi and Kafue Rivers, with a total population numbering no more than 10,000 individuals. The dry season flocks should be breaking up at this time of the year, as the seasonal pools will be filling up and drinking water becoming more available, so we may have to work quite hard to find this rarity. The habitat here encompasses part of the Zambezi floodplain and shallow pools, thorny thickets and stands of mopane are characteristic of the area, so there will be much to distract us along the way. Other species to look out for during our travels include Little Grebe, Marabou Stork, Blackshouldered Kite, Hooded and African White-backed Vultures, Black-chested and Black-cheeked Lovebirds (Nik Borrow) Brown Snake Eagles, Bateleur, Gabar Goshawk, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Shikra, Steppe (split from Common) Buzzard, Martial, Tawny and Wahlberg s Eagles, Helmeted Guineafowl, Crested and Swainson s Francolins, Blacksmith and Crowned Lapwings, Namaqua Dove, Double-banded Sandgrouse, African Mourning Dove, Brown Parrot, Grey Go-awaybird, Jacobin, Klaas s and Diderick Cuckoos, Whitebrowed Coucal, Verreaux s Eagle-Owl, Red-faced Mousebird, Woodland and Striped Kingfishers, Bluecheeked, Swallow-tailed and Southern Carmine Beeeaters, Lilac-breasted and Broad-billed Rollers, Green Wood-hoopoe, Common Scimitarbill, African Hoopoe, Southern Ground Hornbill, Southern Red-billed and African Grey Hornbills, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Black-collared and Crested Barbets, Lesser Honeyguide, Bennett s and Cardinal Woodpeckers, Flappet Lark, Mosque, Red-breasted and Pearl-breasted Swallows, Black Cuckoo-shrike, Whitebrowed Scrub Robin, Rattling and Chirping Cisticolas, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Burnt-necked Eremomela, Long-billed Crombec, Southern Black Flycatcher, Grey Tit-flycatcher, Hartlaub s Babbler, Southern Black Tit, Scarlet-chested, Marico, Copper and White-bellied Sunbirds, African Yellow White-eye, Magpie Shrike, Orange-breasted Bush-shrike, Brown-crowned and Blackcrowned Tchagras, Tropical Boubou, Brubru, White and Retz s Helmet-shrikes, African Golden Oriole, Fork-tailed Drongo, Meves s, Burchell s and Violet-backed Starlings, Yellow-billed and Red-billed Oxpeckers, Northern Greyheaded Sparrow, Red-billed Buffalo Weaver, Lesser Masked and Village Weavers, Green-winged Pytilia, Village Indigobird, Pin-tailed Whydah and Golden-breasted Bunting. The area borders on the much drier country to the west marking the beginning of a rather different avifauna, and so there is always the chance of a few surprises. Day 17 This morning, just as the sun is rising, we will take a boat trip on the Zambezi River. There is a cool freshness to the air at this time of day and a peaceful early morning cruise along the river edge will give us a good chance of encountering an African Finfoot or perhaps Whitebacked Night Heron or Halfcollared Kingfisher, as well as any common riverine species that we may have missed such as Striated (or Green-backed), Purple and Black-headed Herons, Knob-billed Duck and Giant Kingfisher. On rare occasions, even a Pel s Fishing Owl is seen. As we cruise along the Zimbabwean side we may also see Black Heron, Black Stork, Western Banded Snake Eagle and Ruff, as well as mammals such as Vervet Monkey, Hippopotamus and Impala. Returning to the hotel, we shall eat a hearty breakfast and then retrace our steps to Livingstone in order to visit the Victoria Falls. This spectacular and breathtaking place still has a stunning impact even after one has seen innumerable films or photographs. The falls themselves are magnificent and, as David Livingstone himself once declared, On sights as beautiful as this, angels in their flight must have gazed. Here the mighty Zambezi widens to nearly two kilometres broad before plunging vertically downwards. As we approach the falls, dense clouds of water vapour hang over the area and the sound of millions of tons of water dropping into chasms over 100m deep is awe-inspiring. Rock Martins and Red-winged Starlings fly through rainbows that arch across the fine spray before vanishing into the gloom of the gorges. The area protected by the national park is not as extensive as on the Zimbabwean side and bird song is difficult to hear above the deafening rumble and pounding of cascading water. The falls were known as a regular haunt of the rare Taita Falcon, but these days, with increased disturbance, the birds have retreated to the inaccessible gorges downstream. Perhaps the most interesting birds that live here are the African Black Swifts of the paler race hollidayi that is endemic to Victoria Falls. After lunch we will head east towards Choma for a two nights stay in the Nkanga Conservation Area. We will be staying in stylish and comfortable accommodation and join our hosts in the main house each evening for our meals, an experience that makes for a most welcoming and friendly stay. We should arrive in time for some initial exploration. Day 18 The Nkanga Conservation Area contains several cattle ranches and farms that have been actively protecting the local wildlife and are involved in mammal reintroduction schemes. Our interest here lies primarily with Zambia s only other endemic, the striking Chaplin s Barbet. This threatened barbet occurs only in a restricted area that is probably as small

7 7 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Southern Zambia Chaplin s Barbet (Nik Borrow) as a few hundred square kilometres! The bird needs plenty of Ficus sycomorus fig trees for its source of food and it is threatened when these are cleared for cultivation. We shall be scanning the fig trees scattered across the open grasslands in search of bright white dots that could ultimately prove to be the bird itself. The ranch house overlooks an attractive small dam surrounded by dense thickets and beautiful open miombo woodland, and this mosaic typifies the area. Other species that may well be found here include Little Bittern, Rufous-bellied and Grey Herons, African Spoonbill, White-backed and Yellow-billed Ducks, Red-billed and Hottentot Teals, African Cuckoo-Hawk, African Harrier-Hawk, African Goshawk, Lizard Buzzard, Long-crested Eagle, Shelley s and Natal Francolins, Rednecked Spurfowl, African Crake, Lesser Moorhen, Lesser Jacana, African Wattled and Blacksmith Lapwings, African Green Pigeon, Grey-headed Parrot, Schalow s Turaco, Redchested and Black Cuckoos, Black and Senegal Coucals, the spectacular Pennantwinged Nightjar, Narina s Trogon, White-fronted Bee-eater, Racket-tailed Roller, Trumpeter Hornbill, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Miombo Pied Barbet, Brownbacked Honeybird, Greater Honeyguide, Bearded Woodpecker, Rufous-naped Lark, Terrestrial Brownbul, Collared Palm Thrush, Sooty and Arnott s Chats, Miombo Rock Thrush, Groundscraper and Kurrichane Thrushes, Red-faced, Croaking, Shortwinged and Zitting Cisticolas, Neddicky, Stierling s Wren Warbler, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Red-capped Crombec, Pale Flycatcher, Chinspot Batis, Miombo Grey Tit, Grey Penduline Tit, Spotted Creeper, Amethyst and Collared Sunbirds, Souza s Shrike, Grey-headed Bushshrike, Brubru, Eastern Blackheaded Oriole, Greater and Miombo Blue-eared Starlings, Yellow-throated Petronia, Spectacled Weaver, Southern Red and Yellow Bishops, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Common and Orangebreasted Waxbills, Cuckoo Finch (previously known as Parasitic Weaver), Black-eared Seedeater and Cabanis s Bunting. Day 19 After some early morning birding at Nkanga we shall head eastwards to Siavonga, on the shores of Lake Kariba, for a two nights stay. Day 20 The first hours of daylight will be crucial today as we will be hunting for one of the most attractive and sought-after of all African birds, the glorious African Pitta. We will have to leave our hotel while it is still dark in order to arrive at the favoured area of dense thorny thickets that hide this jewel of a bird so easily from sight. Our ears will be strained to catch the sound of its froglike display call and with persistence we should be able to track the bird down and watch as it leaps up from its perch with each and every note it utters. This is one of the most accessible places to see this species, but the terrain is fairly difficult and the dense thickets are often impenetrable in places, so we may have to keep trying for some time before we succeed. As the morning brightens and temperatures begin to rise we will hope that it stays dry so that we can search for some of the other interesting birds of the area. In particular we will be looking for the colourful Purple-crested Turaco, the strange, seemingly tail-less Böhm s Spinetail, Bearded Scrub Robin and the delightful Livingstone s Flycatcher. Other species that occur here include Crested Guineafowl, African Emerald and Barred Long-tailed Cuckoos, Crowned Hornbill, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, African Broadbill, Lesser Striped Swallow, Sombre Greenbul, Eastern Nicator, Thrush Nightingale, Redcapped Robin-Chat, Garden Warbler, Purple-banded Sunbird, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Red-billed Quelea and Red-throated Twinspot. Day 21 We shall have another opportunity to look for the pitta this morning, if need be, before we head back to Lusaka in time for an afternoon flight bound for London. Day 22 Morning arrival at London. Zimbabwe Extension Itinerary Day 21 We will catch an afternoon flight from Lusaka to Harare, the capital of Zimbabwe, for an overnight stay. Day 22 This morning we will drive to the Vumba (or Bvumba) Mountains, part of the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe, for a two nights stay. En route we will drive through a mosaic of open grasslands, fertile agricultural areas, well wooded hills and valleys and attractive conglomerations of enormous, well-weathered rocks. In areas of open broad-leafed woodland we will search for Wood Pipit. Other species we should pick up today include the spectacular Verreaux s Eagle, Greater Striped Swallow, Groundscraper Thrush, Neddicky, Singing Cisticola, Cape Grassbird, Tree Pipit, Red-winged Starling, Black-throated Canary, and Cinnamon-breasted and Cape Buntings. This afternoon we Swynnerton s Robin (Nik Borrow)

8 8 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Southern Zambia will begin our exploration of the Vumba. Day 23 The Vumba (or Bvumba) Mountains rise to just over 1900m, astride the Mozambique border and are still partly covered in lush montane evergreen forest. Large areas have been transformed into banana, tea and tobacco plantations, but in these mountains of the mist several large chunks of forest have been rigorously protected and here we will search for three near-endemics; Swynnerton s Robin, Chirinda Apalis and Roberts s Warbler (formerly Roberts s Prinia), all of which are fairly easy to find. On the forest floor we may chance upon a shy Lemon Dove, while the skulking Barratt s Warbler calls from the densest thickets. Gurney s Sugarbirds favour flowering Protea bushes. Other species we will hope to find in these woods and surrounding open areas include Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Mouse-coloured Flycatcher, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Grey Cuckoo-Shrike, Dark-backed Weaver, the secretive Red-faced Crimsonwing and the skulking Grey Waxbill. We even have a chance of seeing the secretive Buff-spotted Flufftail. Day 24 Today we will make our way back to Harare and catch an afternoon flight bound for London. Day 25 Morning arrival at London. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are mostly of normal Birdquest standard. At Liwonde and on the Nyika Plateau the lodges are very pleasant but the chalets have two separate bedrooms with a shared bathroom. At Dzalanyama, where we spend one night, the lodge is fairly basic and there will be two or more people per room. Road transport is by 4x4s (minibus in Zimbabwe) and roads are mostly surprisingly good. Walking: The walking effort is mostly easy, but there are a few moderate hikes. Climate: Mostly hot, dry and sunny but overcast conditions are not uncommon and it may well rain at times. At higher altitudes it will be cool in the early mornings, although warm later in the day. Bird/Mammal Photography: Opportunities are quite good. Tour Price: 5220, 6160, $8613 London/London (or 4520, 5334, $7458 Lilongwe/Lusaka). Extension: 790, 932, $1304 (ending in Harare). Price includes all transportation (including all flights), all accommodations, all meals, bottled water, some drinks, all excursions, all entrance fees, all tips for local drivers/guides and for accommodations/restaurants, leader services. Single Room Supplement: 450, 531, $743 (excluding Dzalanyama). Extension: 75, 89, $124. Deposit: 530, 625, $875. Extension: 80, 94, $132. If booking more than 12 months before departure, the initial deposit is only 150, 177, $248. Part-Tour Option: Subject to space being available, it is possible to take either the Malawi or Southern Zambia sections of this tour. Please contact us for further information.