MALAWI & ZIMBABWE. 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Zimbabwe

Transcription

1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Zimbabwe MALAWI & ZIMBABWE Main Tour Duration: 16 days African Pitta Post-Tour Extension: 5 days Group Size Limit: 9 Tour Category: Easy for the most part, occasionally Moderate Malawi, a small narrow country bordered by Zambia, Mozambique and Tanzania is best known for its vast lake, the third largest in Africa, but from a birding viewpoint it remains one of Africa s best kept secrets. It is not Lake Malawi that draws the birder to this warm heart of Africa but the rich upland forests and extensive miombo woodlands. Within this small country habitat diversity is carried to an extreme and as a direct consequence Malawi boasts a bird list of over 600 species recorded from a comparatively small area. For anyone used to birding in the drier regions of Southern Africa, Malawi s avifauna is very different. Due to its inland location and small size it does not possess any true endemics, but this easy-going country does have many spectacular or fascinating species which are more readily found here than in any other part of Africa. The two major habitats Böhm s Bee-eaters (Nik Borrow) we will cover during our visit are miombo and montane forest, and both of these provide exciting birding. Miombo (or Brachystegia) woodland must rate as one of Africa s most interesting birding habitats. It can be very quiet at times, but once an active and noisy bird party is found moving through this open woodland the adrenalin will be working overtime on even the most seasoned birdwatcher. Here one finds drongos and tits leading the bird parties whilst cuckoos, woodhoopoes, woodpeckers, orioles, thrushes, warblers, flycatchers, creepers and weavers follow closely behind. The montane forest is no less exciting with tantalizingly exotic calls emanating from thick tangles where alethes, robins and thrushes are lurking. Travel in Malawi is a constant pleasure as the roads are good, the highlands are bordered by forests or by grasslands sprinkled with a wide variety of alpine-like flowers and the views across the Great Rift Valley are stunningly beautiful with hazy blue mountain inselbergs looming above the distant horizon. Our explorations in Malawi will take us initially from Lilongwe, the capital, to the pristine miombo of Dzalanyama, where we will be looking in particular for Pale-billed Hornbill, Whyte s Barbet, the rare Stierling s Woodpecker, Miombo Grey and Cinnamonbellied Tits, Miombo Rock Thrush, Central Bearded Robin, the restricted-range Boulder Chat, Red-capped Crombec, Stierling s Barred Warbler, the strange Böhm s Flycatcher, Souza s Shrike, Red-and-blue (or Anchieta s) Sunbird and even the uncommon Shelley s Sunbird, and Stripe-breasted and Black-eared Canaries. Next we will visit the highland forests of the far south. The Cholo (or Thyolo) Alethe, a near-endemic that also occurs just over the border in neighbouring Mozambique, occurs in this habitat where it is restricted to small isolated patches of montane forest: seeing this secretive species will present one of the challenges of the tour. We will also search for the gorgeous White-winged Apalis (perhaps Africa s most beautiful warbler), Yellowthroated Apalis, Malawi Batis, Green-headed Oriole, and Orange Ground Thrush: all birds with restricted ranges. As we return northwards we will explore the wide, meandering Shire River which drains Lake Malawi at its southern extremity and eventually joins up with the mighty Zambezi. The river cuts through expanses of mopane woodland and open palm savanna and creates wide floodplains rich in game and waterbirds. To drift downstream on a launch in the twilight listening to the night sounds taking over whilst searching the banks for a Pel s Fishing Owl or White-backed Night heron is truly one of the delights of Africa and all this with a sundowner in the other hand! Here too are such spectacular birds as Rackettailed Roller and Böhm s Bee-eater. Heading still further north, we come to the enormous Lake Malawi where Narina Trogons and elusive Gunning s Robins inhabit the remnant patches of evergreen forest along the

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Zimbabwe shoreline. At the northern end of the lake is the Nyika Plateau, an almost tundralike area of upland dotted with forests, small lakes and marshes that is part of the western rim of the Great Rift Valley. The endangered Blue Swallow is easy to see here and we shall also be looking for Denham s Bustard, Olive-headed Greenbul, Black-lored and Churring Cisticolas, the stunning Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird, Ludwig s Double-collared Sunbird, Mountain Widowbird and the restricted-range Yellowbrowed Seedeater, as well as some skulking inhabitants of the forest such as Oliveflanked Robin, Sharpe s Akalat, White-chested Alethe and Chapin s Apalis. To end up our travels through Malawi, a visit to the Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve offers a good chance of seeing the unique Whitewinged Babbling Starling and Chestnut-backed Sparrow- Weaver. From Malawi we take a short flight southwards to Zimbabwe, the one-time Southern Rhodesia. Here, there will be an opportunity to visit the beautiful Vumba Highlands of Zimbabwe, home to Swynnerton s Robin, Chirinda Apalis and Roberts s Warbler, three near-endemic specialities that are shared Pel s Fishing Owl (Nik Borrow) only with neighbouring Mozambique, as well as Gurney s Sugarbird and Buffspotted Flufftail. During the optional post-tour extension we will head for northern Zimbabwe to look for the rarely observed African or Angola Pitta on its breeding grounds, and at a locality which has recently been highly reliable for this much-sought-after jewel bird. Birdquest has operated tours to Malawi and Zimbabwe since Itinerary Day 1 The tour begins around midday at Lilongwe, where we will stay for three nights. A short drive from our hotel, situated in the New Town, is the Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary and we will spend a little time birding in this area. The reserve consists primarily of fairly thick bushveld, riverine forest and mixed miombo woodland with more open areas around rocky bluffs and some quiet backwaters. Along the river we may flush a Blackcrowned Night Heron and should see Hamerkop and Hadeda Ibis. The skulking Tropical Boubou occurs in the riverine thickets, whilst overhanging branches and reeds hold a multitude of nesting Spotted-backed and Southern Masked Weavers. In the treetops stunning Schalow s Turaco utter their raucous cries and Red-eyed and Tambourine Doves chant monotonously while Blue Waxbill and the brightly coloured Red-throated Twinspot forage quietly on the ground and Hildebrandt s Francolins call from the dense undergrowth. In the thicker tangles we should hear the strange noise made by the African Broadbill during its remarkable clockwork-toy-like display and we will try to get a good look at this amazing avian spectacle. Other species we may find here are Cardinal Woodpecker, Fork-tailed Drongo, Pied Crow, Darkcapped Bulbul, Kurrichane Thrush, White-browed Robin-Chat, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Tawny-flanked Prinia, African Paradise Flycatcher, Orange-breasted Bush Shrike and Variable, Eastern Olive, Scarlet-chested and Collared Sunbirds. Days 2-3 The vast forest reserve of Dzalanyama lies to the west of Lilongwe towards the Zambian border. Within the Dzalanyama reserve is one of the largest expanses of pristine miombo woodland remaining in Africa. The woodland covers the low lying flat areas and ranges from rich evergreen forest along the rivers to climax Brachystegia forest on the slopes of the hills. The reserve is not rich in mammals but what might be lacking in terms of large herds of game is certainly made up for by a host of birds, many of them miombo endemics. At this time of year most birds will be actively breeding whilst the very big bird parties so characteristic of this habitat will just be forming. Early morning sounds emanating from the forest will include a chorus of Cape Turtle and Emerald-spotted Wood Doves and perhaps the lion-like calls of Southern Ground Hornbills, but we will be concentrating on finding species such as the localized Pale-billed Hornbill and the rare Stierling s Woodpecker. If we can find some flowering proteas we may find an array of sunbirds that could include Miombo Double-collared, Coppery, Black and Violet-backed, and hopefully the gorgeous Anchieta s (or Red-and-blue) or even the uncommon Shelley s. Other miombo specialities here include Whyte s Barbet, Miombo Grey and Cinnamon-breasted Tits, Miombo Rock Thrush, Central Bearded Robin, Redcapped Crombec, Stierling s Barred Warbler, the strange Böhm s Flycatcher, Souza s Shrike and Stripe-breasted and Black-eared Canaries, and we shall hope to find most of them during our explorations. Even the rare and localized Oliveheaded Weaver occurs here, although we would need much luck to see it. By walking through the woodlands we might find Coqui Francolin or the magnificent Pennantwinged Nightjar, which can sometimes be flushed from the short grass. Sometimes the birds fly only a short distance and can then be admired in full view. We will also climb one of the forested kopjes where we stand a good chance of finding the restricted range Boulder Chat and the distinctive Striped Pipit. Other birds likely to be seen in this habitat include Cuckoo-Hawk, Wahlberg s Eagle, Lizard Buzzard, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Shikra, Gymnogene (or African Harrier-Hawk), African Green Pigeon, Meyer s Parrot, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Broad-billed Roller, Blackcollared Barbet, Yellowfronted Tinkerbird, Greater, Scaly-throated, Lesser and Slender-billed Honeyguides, Little Spotted and Bearded Woodpeckers, Eastern Saw-wing, White-breasted Cuckoo-Shrike, African Golden Oriole, Spotted

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Zimbabwe Creeper, Arrow-marked Babbler, Yellow-breasted and Mashona Hyliotas, Red-faced Crombec, Green-capped Eremomela, Lazy and Short-winged Cisticolas, Red-winged Warbler, Dusky and Bluegrey Flycatchers, Chinspot Batis, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Black-backed Puffback, Black-crowned Tchagra, Grey-headed Bush Shrike, White and Red-billed Helmetshrikes, Violet-backed Starling, Yellow White-eye, Yellow-throated Petronia, Red-headed Weaver, Bluebilled Firefinch, Red-backed Mannikin, Yellow-fronted Canary and Cabanis s Bunting. Day 4 Today we will drive south towards Zomba. We will stop for a while above the old town of Zomba to search a forested gulley for the extremely localized White-winged Apalis. This beautifully-coloured apalis with its exceptionally long tail and conspicuous white wing patches is one of the most attractive African warblers. From here we will drive on the winding road which takes us to the summit of the Zomba Plateau, taking in some breathtaking scenery as we go. Far below is Lake Chilwa whilst to the southeast are the isolated massif of Mulanje Mountain and Mozambique in the far distance. In the montane grasslands and in some of the forest patches we may find White-winged Apalis (Nik Borrow) African Black Duck, Longcrested Eagle, Olive Pigeon, Livingstone s Turaco, Yellowrumped Tinkerbird, Squaretailed Drongo, White-necked Raven, Stripe-cheeked Greenbul, Evergreen Forest Warbler, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, the localized Yellow-throated Apalis (split from Barthroated), Black-headed Apalis, White-tailed Crested Flycatcher, Long-tailed Wagtail, Forest Doublecollared Sunbird (split from Eastern) and, if we are fortunate, the attractive Olive Bush Shrike or the localized Bertram s (or Bertrand s) Weaver. Later we will leave the Zomba Plateau to travel further south towards Lujeri near Mount Mulanje, where we will stay for two nights. Day 5 At one time Mount Mulanje was extensively covered with dense forest, but much has been cleared and replaced with vast tea plantations which are almost devoid of birds. There are islands of natural forest left, however, and there is still a sizeable area of forest remaining in total. Today we will visit this exciting area which holds a good variety of forest birds including the near-endemic Cholo (or Thyolo) Alethe. A bird that always seems to skulk in the darkest thickets, we shall hope that it may be found attending an ant swarm or be coaxed into view. With many other species to look for, we shall certainly be kept busy. At the forest edge we have a second opportunity to look for the superb Whitewinged Apalis. White-eared Barbets call from the treetops and on entering the forest the liquid calls of Greenheaded Orioles and easily recognizable Hello Georgie of the African Emerald Cuckoo come drifting through the trees, while Bar-tailed Trogons respond rapidly to an imitation of their whistling call. Other birds to be found in the forest include Olive Woodpecker, Cabanis s, Yellow-streaked and Little Green Bulbuls, Mountain Thrush (split from Olive), Starred, Natal and Cape Robins, Malawi Batis (split from Cape), Mozambique Batis, Blackfronted Bush Shrike, Forest Weaver, Common Waxbill and, if we are lucky, Green Twinspot. Later we will continue to Zomba for an overnight stay. Day 6 This morning we will drive to Liwonde National Park for a two nights stay. We will spend the afternoon and early evening birding the river banks from a motor launch. The Shire river, which drains Lake Malawi and flows south to join the mighty Zambezi, courses its way past the large Liwonde National Park. As we slowly make our way along the river during the last part of the day, the evocative cries of the African Fish Eagle echoes through the air and we should encounter large flocks of birds flying to roost on dead trees lining the banks. Amongst the hundreds of Long-tailed and Whitebreasted Cormorants, and Great, Little and Intermediate (or Yellow-billed) Egrets we may see flocks of African Open-billed Storks, a few Striated (or Green-backed) Herons, Black-crowned Night Herons, Sacred Ibises and perhaps a Saddle-billed Stork and some African Darters. Countless Cattle Egrets follow the herds of African Elephants drinking at the rivers edge whilst Squacco Herons, Black Egrets, Water Dikkops, White-fronted, Kittlitz s and Three-banded Plovers, and Wattled, Blacksmith, Spur-winged and Long-toed Lapwings rest on the sand bars along with White-faced Whistling Ducks, Knob-billed Ducks, Spur-winged Geese and Grey-headed Gulls. If the water levels are right, the bizarre African Skimmer may be present. As twilight approaches and the first bats flit about over the reeds snapping up insects they may in turn be picked out of the air by Eurasian Hobbies. Hundreds of hippos and impressive Nile Crocodiles inhabit this mighty river. As it gets dark we can spotlight the banks in the hope of seeing a White-backed Night Heron or a Pel s Fishing Owl. Day 7 Liwonde National Park encompasses part of the Shire River and the southernmost portion of Lake Malombe. The dominant vegetation is mopane woodland; dry and sparse in some areas but much denser in the wetter regions closer to the river. In times of flood the Shire River spills over to form extensive grassy plains in the open areas with thick stands of reeds surrounding isolated pools that provide a haven for African Jacanas. Closer to the river are long stretches of Borassus palm savanna, whilst on the steeper banks of the river thick tangles of vegetation harbour warblers and weavers and provide perching places for Malachite, Brown-hooded, Pied and Giant Kingfishers. Amongst this varied habitat stand enormous baobab trees, convoluted and riddled with crevices and holes. The park is full of large mammals and here African Elephant and Waterbuck are common and we should also find Yellow Baboon, Vervet Monkey, Warthog, Impala and, with luck, the

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Zimbabwe handsome Sable. Birds are prolific and where we are staying, at Mvuu Lodge, the local guides usually know where a Pel s Fishing Owl is roosting, so that we will most likely be able to admire this huge orange owl in daylight! We will be able to explore the park on foot and by open-topped vehicles that are perfect for birdwatching. Colourful Lilian s Lovebirds and Brown-headed Parrots present little problem to see and beautiful Böhm s Beeeaters and Collared Palm Thrushes are garden birds, but Racket-tailed Roller, the striking Brown-breasted Barbet, Arnott s Chat and the lovely Livingstone s Flycatcher may require a bit more searching for. Raptors such as Martial Eagle, Western Banded Snake Eagle and Palmnut Vulture occur here and in the palms we should find the dainty Dickinson s Kestrel and Rednecked Falcon. In the dry wooded valleys we might encourage a small African Barred Owlet to make an appearance. Other species regularly encountered in the park include Blackheaded Heron, White-backed Vulture, Yellow-billed Kite, African Hawk Eagle, Brown Snake Eagle, Bateleur, Little Sparrowhawk, African Goshawk, African Marsh Harrier, Osprey, Rednecked Spurfowl, Helmeted Guineafowl, Purple-crested Wattled Cranes (Michael Hodgson) Turaco, Grey Go-away- Bird, Klaas s Cuckoo, Green and Burchell s Coucals, Mozambique Nightjar, African Palm Swift, Redfaced Mousebird, Striped Kingfisher, Little and Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters, Lilac-breasted Roller, Red-billed Woodhoopoe, Common Scimitarbill, Trumpeter, Crowned, African Grey and Southern Redbilled Hornbills, Crested Barbet, Reichenow s and Golden-tailed Woodpeckers, Flappet Lark, Wire-tailed Swallow, Southern Black Tit, Terrestrial, Sombre and Yellow-bellied Bulbuls, Yellow-spotted Nicator, Little Rush Warbler, Long-billed Crombec, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Rattling Cisticola, Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Black-throated Wattle-eye, African Pied Wagtail, Yellowthroated Longclaw, Brubru, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Meves s and Greater Blueeared Starlings, Red-billed Oxpecker, White-bellied Sunbird, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Spectacled, Golden, Southern Brown-throated and Lesser Masked Weavers, Fire-crowned Bishop, Greenwinged Pytilia, Jameson s and Red-billed Firefinches, Bronze Mannikin and Paradise Whydah. Day 8 Today we will drive north along the shores of Lake Malawi to Chintheche for an overnight stay, stopping for anything of interest we see along the way. Here one can choose to swim in the lake or bird around the hotel where we should find Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Lesser Striped Swallow, Purple-banded Sunbird and Yellow Weaver. Day 9 Before leaving the area we will make a short visit to some thick tropical forest choked with vines and creepers adjacent to the lake. Our target here will be to see the endemic race of the East Coast Akalat (or Gunning s Robin) and we may also find the glorious Narina Trogon. From Chintheche we will wend our way over the escarpment for the drive north to the highest reaches of Malawi, the Nyika Plateau, where we will stay for the next three nights. As we enter the park we will start seeing a new selection of birds and animals amidst some breathtaking scenery. Days Our time will be spent searching the grassland, forests and marshes of the broad Nyika Plateau, both on the Malawian and Zambian sides of the border. Herds of majestic Roan Antelopes roam the plateau alongside groups of Reedbuck while shy Bushbuck venture forth from the forest to graze and Bushpigs and Side-striped Jackals are occasionally glimpsed. Here the stately Denham s Bustard wanders over grasslands where we will also search for the rare Wattled Crane. Brilliant but endangered Blue Swallows present little problem to see as they fly low over the open hills and bracken- and briar-covered valleys where Black-lored and Churring Cisticolas are common and even easy to identify with their distinctive songs and plumages. and we will be on the lookout for the restricted-range Yellowbrowed Seedeater (split from Streaky). At patches of flowering proteas we shall check the sunbirds carefully for, as well as Ludwig s Double-collared (split from Greater), Bronze and Malachite, we will be hoping to see the equally impressive Scarlet-tufted Malachite. In the wetter areas we should find Mountain Widowbird in breeding plumage complete with some very impressive tails. We will want to spend most of the mornings inside some magnificent montane forest where we will be concentrating on finding more secretive forest birds such as Olive-flanked Robin, Orange Ground Thrush, the striking White-chested Alethe, Sharpe s Akalat, the localized Chapin s Apalis and Fülleborn s Black Boubou. At night Rwenzori Nightjars can be seen around our chalets and other species we should see include Yellowbilled Duck, Augur Buzzard, Black and Rufous-chested Sparrowhawks, Montagu s and Pallid Harriers, Blackbreasted Snake Eagle, White-winged Babbling Starlings (Nik Borrow)

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Malawi & Zimbabwe Cape Grassbird, Tree Pipit, Red-winged Starling, Black-throated Canary, and Cinnamon-breasted and Cape Buntings. This afternoon we will begin our exploration of the Vumba. the secretive Buff-spotted Flufftail. Day 16 Today we will make our way back to Harare, where the tour ends this afternoon. Crowned Eagle, Black-bellied Bustard, Dusky Turtle Dove, Scarce Swift, Moustached Green Tinkerbird, Rufousnaped Lark, White-headed Saw-wing, Red-rumped and Angola Swallows, African Hill Babbler, Mountain Yellow Warbler, Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, Ayres s and Wailing Cisticolas, Brown Parisoma, Brownheaded Apalis, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, African Pipit, Waller s and Slenderbilled Red-winged Starlings, Baglafecht Weaver, Yellowbellied Waxbill, and Yellowcrowned and Brimstone Canaries. Day 12 We will leave the Nyika Plateau today and drive to Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve, an area of superb miombo and dry bush country at the base of the plateau, for an overnight stay nearby at Luwawa Forest. At Vwaza we will search for two species rarely seen outside Zambia and Angola. These are the localized Whitewinged Babbling Starling, a strange bird in a monotypic genus that looks more like a cross between a babbler and a helmetshrike than a starling, and the striking Chestnut-backed Sparrow- Weaver. We also stand a good chance of finding Miombo Pied Barbet as well as having another chance Swynnerton s Robin (Nik Borrow) to see some of those other miombo specialities again. Day 13 After some final birding at Vwaza Marsh we will drive back to Lilongwe for an overnight stay, travelling over the Viphya Mountains (sadly now mainly a huge pine plantation) and stopping to look for any birds of interest en route. We should have time to visit a dambo that, if conditions are right, may hold Rosebreasted Longclaw and African Quailfinch, as well as an assortment of bishops and widowbirds. Day 14 This morning we will catch a flight to Harare, the capital of Zimbabwe. From here we will drive to the Vumba (or Bvumba) Mountains, part of the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe, for a two nights stay. En route we will drive through a mosaic of open grasslands, fertile agricultural areas, well wooded hills and valleys and attractive conglomerations of enormous, well-weathered rocks. In areas of open broad-leafed woodland we will search for Wood Pipit. Other species we should pick up today include the spectacular Verreaux s Eagle, Greater Striped Swallow, Groundscraper Thrush, Neddicky, Singing Cisticola, Day 15 The Vumba (or Bvumba) Mountains rise to just over 1900m, astride the Mozambique border and are still partly covered in lush montane evergreen forest. Large areas have been transformed into banana, tea and tobacco plantations, but in these mountains of the mist several large chunks of forest have been rigorously protected and here we will search for three near-endemics; Swynnerton s Robin, Chirinda Apalis and Roberts s Warbler (formerly Roberts s Prinia), all of which are fairly easy to find. On the forest floor we may chance upon a shy Lemon Dove, while the skulking Barratt s Warbler calls from the densest thickets. Gurney s Sugarbirds favour flowering Protea bushes. Other species we will hope to find in these woods and surrounding open areas include Silverycheeked Hornbill, Mousecoloured Flycatcher, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Grey Cuckoo-Shrike, Dark-backed Weaver, the secretive Redfaced Crimsonwing and the skulking Grey Waxbill. We even have a chance of seeing African Pitta Extension: There will be a four nights post-tour extension to northern Zimbabwe to look for the seldom-seen African Pitta at a location that has proven highly reliable for this much sought-after speciality. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are mostly of good standard. At Liwonde and on the Nyika Plateau the lodges are very pleasant but the chalets have two separate bedrooms with a shared bathroom. Road transport is by 4x4s (minibus in Zimbabwe) and roads are mostly surprisingly good. Walking: The walking effort is mostly easy, but there are a few moderate hikes. Climate: Mostly hot, dry and sunny but overcast conditions are not uncommon and it may well rain at times. At higher altitudes it will be cool in the early mornings, although warm later in the day. Bird/Mammal Photography: Opportunities are quite good. African Pitta (Nik Borrow)