Semester III Theory I
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- Marjory Bridges
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1 Code: TEX -301 Periods/Week: 2 Semester III Theory I Traditional Textiles 30 hrs (2hrs/week) 1. To acquaint the students with the country s rich heritage. 2. To study the important textile arts in their historical perspective, and impact of modernization and their contemporary status. I Woven Textiles 8 hrs Jamadani Chanderi Maheshwari Brocades Baluchari II Embroidered Textiles 6 hrs Kashmir- kashida, kasuti Phulkari Kantha Chikankari III Printed Textiles 6 hrs Bagh, Ajrak, Sanganeri Madhubani Kalamkari IV Resist Dyed Textiles 4 hrs Bhandej Patola Ikat Unit V 6 hrs Applied Design and ornamentation: Embroidery, Dyeing, Painting and Printing Books Recommended: 1. Donger Kery, R.S.: The Indian Saree, All India HandiCraft- Board, New Delhi. 2. Brij Bhushan J: Costumes & Textiles of India, Taraporewalla Sons & Company, New Delhi. 3. Akazi Roshan: Ancient Indian Costumes, New Delhi, Art Heritage 1
2 Code: TEX -302 Periods/Week: 2 Semester III Theory II Dyeing Technology 30 hrs (2hrs/week) Objective: 1. To understand concept of design as related to fabric through dyeing. 2. To enhance awareness and appreciation of art and aesthetics through dyeing. Unit I Chemistry and application of synthetic dyes on various types of fabric Direct, Reactive, Vat, Sulphur, Azo Acid, Basic Disperse Unit II Dyeing of fabric with natural dyes Unit III Concept of color measurement- reflection, absorption, lightness& darkness 10 hrs 5 hrs 5 hrs Unit IV 5 hrs Role and function of - Auxillaries, Exhausting agents, Wetting agents, Carriers, ph regulates used in dyeing Unit V Legal and Environmental concern Laws and Regulations Mandatory and voluntary labeling program Environmental issues, Environmental laws and regulations Environmental health and safety Effluent treatments, selection of dyes and auxillary 5 hrs Books Recommended: 1. Kadolph Sara J, Langford Anna L.: Textiles Upper saddle River, New Jersey 2. Gulrajani M.L. and Gupta D: Natural dyes and their application to textiles, IIT Delhi. 3. Shenai V.A.: Chemistry of Dyes and Principles of Dyeing, Sevak Prakashan Mumbai. 2
3 Code: TEX -303 Periods/Week: 3 Semester III Practical I Design Lab 45 hrs (3hrs/week) 1. To create awareness with the textile traditions prevalent in India. 2. To impart knowledge regarding the traditional textiles in India. 1. Catalogue of design 2. Preparation of design sheet inspired from tradiotional Indian Textiles abstract, geometrical, traditional & floral. 3. Preparation of Indian Traditional Sari Design sheets 20 hrs o Embroidery o Printing o Woven o Resist 3
4 Code: TEX -304 Periods/Week: 3 Semester III Practical II Dyeing Lab 45 hrs (3hrs/week) 1. To develop creative skills in designing through dyeing of fabric. Practicals: Dyeing of fabric samples with different classes of dyes Preparation of fabric samples of batik on cotton & silk Preparation of fabric samples of tie and dye on silk and wool 25hrs 10hrs 10 hrs 4
5 Code: TEX -401 Periods/Week: 2 Advance Fabric Science Semester IV Theory I 30 hrs (2hrs/week) 1. To develop ability to create fancy weaves. 2. To enable students to understand and learn methods of developing advance fabrics are using different fibers, yarns and fabric making techniques. I Fancy Weaves 10 hrs Introduction of fancy weaves Construction of fancy weaves II Dobby and Jacquard 6 hrs Dobby and Jacquard loom with their special features Preparation of design for Jacquard loom III Figuring 5 hrs Principles of figuring Figuring with extra threads Imitation of extra thread effects IV Double Cloth 4 hrs Basic double cloth construction Stitched double cloth Centre stitched double cloth V Special Fabrics 5 hrs Tapestry, Gauze, and leno structure, pile structure -warp and weft-pile fabrics Books Recommended: 1. Grosicki, Z.J.: Watson s Textile Design and Colour, Newness Butter Worth, London. 2. Oelsner, G.H. A Handbook of Weaves: Dover Publishing Inc New York. 3. Joseph M: Essentials of textiles, Wonston Publication. 5
6 Code: TEX -402 Periods/Week: 2 Semester IV Theory II Textile Printing 30 hrs (2hrs/week) 1. To understand the basic of printing and finishing. 2. To understand the concept of design as related to fabric. I Preparation of various fabrics for printing 5 hrs II Printing 5 hrs Styles of Printing direct, discharge and resist III Methods of Printing 10 hrs Block, Screen, Stencil, Roller and Rotary Advantages and disadvantages of various methods of printing IV After treatments of printed goods- ageing, steaming, raisins, fixing, curing and others 5 hrs V Printing of cellulosic fabrics, silk and polyester 5 hrs Books Recommended: 1. Storey, J: Manual of Textile Printing, Thames and Hudson Publication, London Clarke, W. An Introduction to Textile Printing, Newnes Butter Worth, Boston. 3. Shenai V.A.: Technology of Printing, Sevak Publication, Mumba. 4. Corbman, B: Fibre to Fabric, TMH Co. Ltd. 6
7 Code: TEX -403 Periods/Week: 3 Semester IV Practical I Weaving Lab 45 hrs(3hrs/week) 1. To create fancy weaves on handloom. 2. To provide in-depth knowledge of advance fabric construction. Collection of samples of woven fabrics, identification of fancy weaves by visual examination using magnifying glass. 10 hrs Sample preparation of fancy weaves on looms. 20 hrs Preparation of Card for Jacquard loom. 5 hrs Fabric Analysis for design, repeat, draft, peg plan and other details. 5 hrs Creating designs for stripes, checks, towels. 5 hrs 7
8 Code: TEX -404 Periods/Week: 3 Semester IV Practical II Printing Lab 45 hrs(3hrs/week) 1. To understand the techniques involved in printing technology. 1. Preparation of Fabric for Printing different fibre groups with different dyes, different styles of Printing. 15 hrs 2. Printing with Blocks and screens on cotton and silk in different styles with different dye classes. 30 hrs a. Direct style c. Discharge style b. Azoic style d. Resist style 8
9 Semester V Theory I Code: TEX -501 Periods/Week: 2 (CA-30, Introduction to Textile Machineries 30 hrs (2hrs/week) 1. To gain knowledge of textile machineries involved in various stages of textile. 2. Know the techniques of process evaluation. Unit I Preparatory processing m/c s shearing m/c singeing m/c keir boiling/ scouring J Box/ bleaching Unit II Dyeing m/c s Fiber dyeing m/c s Yarn dyeing m/c s Fabric dyeing m/c s :Winch,Jigger, Padding mangle, Beaker, Jet, High temperature high pressure dyeing machine Unit III Printing m/c s Perotine blocks ptg. m/c s Flatbed screen ptg. m/c s Ratary screen ptg. m/c s Roller ptg m/c s Transfer ptg m/c s Other ptg m/c s Unit IV After dyeing printing m/c s Drying m/c s Steaming m/c Ageing m/c Curing m/c Unit V Finishing M/C S Calendaring Tentering Pressing 5Hrs 6 Hrs 9 Hrs 5 Hrs 5hrs 9
10 Books Recommended: Shenai, V.A..: Technology of textile processing, Sevak publications, Mumbai. Tortora, Phyllis G. Understanding Textile, McMillan Publishing & New York Gohl E.V. and Vilenskey L.D. Textile Science, C.B.S. Publishers New Delhi Storey, J: Manual of Textile Printing, Thames and Hudson Publication, London 1992 Clarke, W. An Introduction to Textile Printing, Newnes Butter Worth, Boston. Shenai V.A.: Technology of Printing, Sevak Publication, Mumba. 10
11 Code: TEX -502 Periods/Week: 2 Semester V Theory II Apparel Industry & Garment Processing 30 hrs(2hrs/week) 3. Gain knowledge of apparel production in various stages of manufacture. 4. Know the techniques of process evaluation to improvise production. I Apparel Industry 4 hrs Introduction to apparel industry their requirement in Indian Context. II Clothing Science 6 hrs Factors involved in the study of clothing science. Functional description of clothing, physical properties of clothing. Clothing material in relation to the protective performance of garments. III Garment Processing 5 hrs Processing of denim garments, biopolishing, stone washing. Processing of knitwear garments, dyeing, durable press finish, printing of garments. Printing of Garments, limitation of garment processing. IV Garments Dyeing machines 5 hrs Paddle dyeing machine,rotary drum and high temperature circular liquor dyeing machines. V Quality Control in Garments 10 hrs Introduction to quality control, definition of Quality, Importance of quality assurance, fabric inspection, IPQC, AQL, MIL Standards and Final inspection. Concepts of TQM, tools used for quality assurance. Care labels, International care labelling system, Japan/Canada/British care, labeling systems. Eco labels Books Recommended: Mehta P.V. (2001): Quality control in Apparel Industry, Nift Pub. New Delhi Bheda R. (2003): Managing Productivity in the Apparel Industry, CBS Publication, New Delhi Harford C & Lathom B (1994), The Technology of Clothing Manufacture Oxford Publications. 11
12 Code: TEX -503 Periods/Week: 3 Semester V Practical I Design Lab 45 hrs(3 hrs/week) 1. To gain in-depth knowledge of basics of textile designing. 2. To enable students to understand application of design in textiles. Different colour ways and colour schemes for curtains, bed sheets, bed covers and upholstery. 15 hrs Design suitability for different fabrics and for special articles of clothing and household use. 15 hrs Creating designs for application through blocks, stencil and screens. 15 hrs 12
13 Code: TEX -504 Internship Semester V Practical-II 1. Acquire the practical knowledge regarding the working procedure and the production of textiles at industrial level. 2. To study the current market trends of textiles at commercial level. 3. To get acquaint with the basic concepts related to Textile Industry. In the end of IV Semester, students will undergo internship training in a textile designing unit, textile dyeing and printing unit etc. So that they get to understand the existing working practices, conditions and acquire an indepth technical know how since Seeing is believing and doing is understanding, the practical experience in different units of textile industry is of great relevance and significance. Internship Training (IT) S.No. Purpose Duration Place 1. Internship 4 week Industrial Unit Total 4 weeks Evaluation: The students shall prepare a project during Internship Training along with report of training The training institution (Industrial Unit) shall give a certificate regarding successful training. Then 3 members team from the department shall conduct a vice-voce and evaluate the reports. The students will be given marks out of 100, which will be converted to credits as per the programme. 13
14 Code: TEX -601 Periods/Week: 2 Semester VI Theory I TEXTILE TESTING AND QUALITY CONTROL 30 hrs (2hrs/week) 1. To develop an understanding of methods to analyze textile fibre, yarns and fabrics for end-use performance. 2. To acquire knowledge and understanding of various properties of textiles and relate to end use fabric performance and product. UNIT I Introduction to Textile Testing: Objectives of textile testing. Importance of Textile testing. UNIT II Textiles and Moistures: Standards atmospheric test condition, various methods to measure relative humidity Moisture content and moisture regain of textiles. UNIT III Fibre and Yarn Dimensions: Fiber testing length, fineness Yarn testing twist, crimp, elongation and strength. 5Hrs 6Hrs 7Hrs UNIT IV Fabric Dimensions and Properties: 8Hrs Fabric Testing Strength, elongation, shrinkage, thickness, crease recovery, stiffness, drape. Fabric defects and their analysis. UNIT V Standardization: Organizations for standardization (National & International) Quality control of Textile Products BIS, ASTM, ISO, BS, AATCC 4Hrs Essential Readings: 1. Booth, J.E., Principles of Textile Testing, Newness Butter Worth, London. 2. John, H. Skinkle., Textile Testing, Brooklyn, New York. Books Recommended: 3. Billie, J. Collier and Helen, H. Epps., Textile Testing and Analysis, Prentice Hall, New Jersey. 4. Grover and Hamby., Hand Book of Textile Testing and Quality Control, Wiles 14
15 Code: TEX -602 Periods/Week: 2 Semester VI Theory II Colour & Design 30 hrs (2hrs/week) 1. To understand design. 2. To understand color and its application 3. To learn the methods of repetition of motif, types of motifs, elements & principles of design UNIT I Introduction to Color & Design: Role of design and designers in society Definition of Colour The role of colour in design 5Hrs UNIT II Importance of color: 4 Hrs Color wheel, color harmonies,properties of colors, interaction of color Meaning of colour and colour ways. Classification of colour theories: light theory of colour, pigment theory of colour Newton s theory of color UNIT III Design: 6Hrs Elements of design ( line, form, color, texture, tone, space) Principle of design (unity, harmony, balance, dominance, rhythm, proportion) UNIT IV Motifs: Definitation of motifs & classification of motifs ;Traditional,modern Types of motifs : Geometrical, stylized, figurative,abstract, folk,tribal UNIT V Concept of repeat in design: Types of repeats: plain, vertical, horizontal, twill, mirror, half step, all over 8Hrs 7Hrs Essential Readings: 1. Gaur.J, Textiles & Laundry, Research publications, New Delhi. 2. Kadolph.J.S & Langford.L.A., Textiles,VIII ed.,1998,prentice Hall, New Jersey. 15
16 Practical I Code: TEX -603 Periods/Week: 3 Semester VI TEXTILE TESTING AND QUALITY CONTROL 45 hrs(3hrs/week) 1. To develop an understanding of methods and techniques used to analyze textile fibre, yarns and fabrics for end-use performance. 2. To acquire knowledge and understanding of various structural properties of textiles and relate to end use fabric performance and product. 3. To be able to analyze and interpret the results and predict the general textile testing. Contents Practical 1. Moisture Relation testing use of oven, determination of oven dry weight. 10Hrs 2. Physical testing of yarn Count, Twist, Crimp, Strength. 15Hrs 3. Physical testing of fabric- Thread count, Thickness, Stiffness,,Drapability, Crease Recovery, Tearing Strength. 35Hrs Essential Readings: 1. Booth, J.E., Principles of Textile Testing, Newness Butter Worth, London. 2. Saville, B.P., Physical Testing of Textiles, Workload Publishing Ltd. Books Recommended: 1. Billie, J.Collier and Helen H., Textile Testing and Analysis, Prentice Hall, New Jersey. 2. Skinkle, John, H., Textile Testing, Brooklyn, New York. 3. Grover and Hamby, Hand Book of Textile Testing and Quality Control, Wiles. 16
17 Code: TEX -604 Periods/Week: 3 Semester VI Practical-II APPLIED TEXTILE DESIGN 45 hrs (3 hrs/week) 1. To impart understanding of different media of application-printing (stencil, block) and special finishes. 2. To equip the students with technical skills of designing competency for different media of application. 3. To develop a professional approach towards the thematic designing for textiles. Contents Practical: 1. Design development conceptualizing theme board/ mood board, interpreting theme board in line with elements of design 10 Hrs 2. Rendering: various textures- yarn fabric finishes & other textures. 10 Hrs Fabric simulation- sheer, medium weight, heavy, pile etc. Colour mixing and colour ways Enlargement & reduction of motifs 3. Creating design ornaments 06 Hrs Development of motif Concept of design repeats 4. Design & development of blocks, screen & stencil 10 Hrs 5. Thematic approach to design: Preparation of theme chart/board depicting colour story and texture indication for fabric yardage for apparel & household textiles. 24Hrs Essential Readings: 1. Yates, M., Textiles: A Handbook of Designers, WW Norton Publishing Company. 2. Prakash., Traditional Indian Motifs, The Design Point, Bombay. 17
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