VINYL WINDOWS (new construction or replacement) page 2. VINYL PATIO DOORS pages WOOD CLAD WINDOWS (new construction).page 5 WOOD CLAD WINDOWS
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1 RECOMMENDED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Please choose the appropriate instructions for the product(s) you are using. Read the instructions thoroughly before beginning the installation process. All instructions are intended as basic guides for window and/or door installation. VINYL WINDOWS (new construction or replacement) page 2 VINYL PATIO DOORS pages 3-43 WOOD CLAD WINDOWS (new construction).page 5 WOOD CLAD WINDOWS (replacement) pages 6-86 WOOD CLAD PATIO DOORS...pages ALUMINUM WINDOWS.page 11 ALUMINUM PANNING (installation & sealing instructions)...page 12 If you do not see the appropriate product listed, or you require more in-depth instructions, please contact your Quaker window dealer.
2 General Installation Instructions for Quaker Windows Please read the following instructions thoroughly before beginning the installation process of the window. The instructions below are intended as a basic guide for window installation. If you require more in-depth instructions, please contact your Quaker window dealer. Installation of New Construction Vinyl Windows in Frame Walls 1. Be sure your rough opening is level, plumb, and square, and the dimensions are correct (fig. 1). The width and height of your rough opening should be a minimum of 1/2" larger than your window size, but not to exceed 1" (fig. 2) Prepare the sill of your rough opening for flashing tape. Make sure that you use the correct flashing tape for your installation application. Cut a piece of tape (it must be a minimum of 12" longer than the rough opening width). Apply the flashing by centering it width-wise on the sill stud and adhering it to the rough opening. Flashing should touch the back edge of the sill stud but should not go onto the interior side of the stud. Flashing should cover the entire width of the sill stud and should extend at least 6" up each jamb. On the exterior side of the rough 4a opening, the flashing should extend approximately 9" downward from the sill stud. 3. When installing an operating unit (hung, slider, or venting), be sure that the operating sash is closed completely and locked. 4. Apply a continuous bead of silicone caulk (3/8" wide) to the following places: a) exterior face of the rough opening (fig. 4a) b) backside of the nailing fin (fig. 4b) 5. From the outside, center the window in the opening. Leave approximately 1/4" of room on each side. 6. Find the pre-punched hole in the nailing fin's top right corner. Using roofing nails (minimum of 1" in length), nail the top right corner through the nailing fin (fig. 6). 7. Shim and adjust so that the window is square and level, then nail the top left corner (fig. 7). Important Note: Thickness for all shims should be the same from the inside to the outside to ensure jambs will not bow or hour-glass. 8. Again, check the window to make sure it is square and level. If it is not, shim and adjust where needed until the window is level, plumb, and square. An even reveal around the window's frame should be seen. 6" 9. Nail the two remaining corners. Note: Units over 36" wide will require blocking under the window sill. 10. Going around the perimeter of the nailing fin at 8" to 10" intervals, nail the 9" pre-punched holes. DO NOT NAIL EACH HOLE. DO NOT NAIL TOO TIGHT. 11. Check the window's operation. Window should work properly if installation is correct. Do not apply interior trim until window works properly. 12. Vertically mulled units require a drip cap before the flashing is applied. Flash the nail fin along jambs. Then apply flashing to window header last (fig. 12). If properly applied π, the flashing will eliminate water infiltration and assure a watertight seal. 13. Place insulation strips (fiberglass or similar) between the window frame and rough opening to eliminate cold drafts. DO NOT OVER-PACK INSULATION. Also, do not use expanding or spray-in type foams. They will distort the window frame, causing operating and performance problems. Doing so will also void any warranty. Caulk around the entire interior perimeter of the window. 14. Keep siding material 1/4" off the window head, so that pressure will not cause the window head to sag, and possibly damage glass and hinder the window's operation. If working with masonry or brick applications, see steps below. π For application instructions, see your authorized Quaker dealer, or call Quaker Window Products at When using House Wraps and OSB substrates, or with applications under 45 F (7 C), spray an application adhesive (available at your Quaker dealer) around the perimeter of the window before applying flashing. Different applications require different spray adhesives so please check with your dealer for the proper type. Installation of New Construction Windows into Masonry & Brick Veneer Walls Follow same steps as shown above but also: 1. Allow a 1/4" minimum clearance between the window frame perimeter and brick to allow for expansion and setting. 2. Fill the void with silicone caulking. 2 WARNING (Failure to follow these instructions renders all warranties as null & void) 1. Do not expose windows to direct heat or sunlight. 2. Store all windows inside. 3. When carrying window, always keep it in a vertical position. 4. Stack windows as straight as possible to avoid bowing. Do not lay flat. 5. Do not drill through window sill to install alarm wires. 6. If using muriatic acid or brick wash cleaning solutions, please follow the manufacturer s instructions found on the product label or on the manufacturer s website. Special Note: If broken, glass can fragment causing injury. All Quaker products are available with safety glass. In many areas, local building codes require safety glass in certain locations and/or applications. Unless Quaker's stipulations dictate safety glass or safety glass is specifically ordered, Quaker windows are not provided with safety glass. Before installing, Quaker recommends consulting local building codes for more definitive information b Installation of Replacement Vinyl Windows Preparation 1. Remove inside trim stops on existing window opening. 2. Remove existing lower sash by cutting sash cord or chain. Sash weights will fall. 3. Remove lower sash & parting stops at sides and top. 4. Remove upper sash in the same manner as lower sash. 5. Remove the four pulley assemblies and plug holes with insulation. 6. If installing exterior casing covers (i.e. coil stock, break metal), now is the time to put on the sill cover. Extend it far enough on the sill so the new window will come down on top of it. 7. Caulk interior side of blindstop top and sides. Caulk inside edge of existing stool where window sill butts against stool. 8. Caulk the head of the rough opening in two places, so that when the window is inserted into the opening, the window's head expander will press against it. Place a strip or two of insulation in the head expander before placing it on the new window. 9. Place another strip of insulation on the sill. Set the window in the opening. Push out to stops. Installation 10. Pack insulation around side jambs. Do not use expanding or spray-in type foams. They will distort the window frame, causing operating and performance problems. Doing so will also void any warranty. 11. Lock up the window and check for squareness. Adjust as required. Sash MUST be square to master frame and bottom sash MUST sit evenly on sill. Shim window at jambs and wherever else accordingly. DO NOT OVERSHIM. 12. Secure window in place using six installation screws through jambs. Bring screws up snug, but do not overtighten. 13. Check for even alignment of both sashes to side jambs. 14. Check to assure window is operating properly, then replace inside trim stops. 15. Snap in the exterior sill trim. (It may need to be trimmed before it is applied.) Caulk and seal around it. 16. Caulk around perimeter of window inside & outside. Quaker Window Products reserves the right to implement design modifications &/or product changes at any time which may cause installation instructions to vary slightly Freeburg, MO A Tradition of Quality since 1949!
3 General Installation Instructions for Quaker Patio Doors Please read the following instructions thoroughly before beginning the installation process of the patio door. The instructions below are intended as a basic guide for patio door installation. If you require more in-depth instructions, please contact your Quaker dealer. Installation of New Construction Patio Doors in Wall Frame NOTE: Your patio door should have additional installation instructions attached when delivered. Refer to these instructions for installation of door hardware and screen adjustment. 1. Check rough opening for proper size for your patio door. Make sure the rough opening is plumb and square (figure 1). 2. With a 6-0 level, check floor inside rough opening for level and straightness (figure 2). There must be no crown or dip in floor as this will cause improper door and screen operation. Correct any problems with floor before proceeding. 3. Patio door is pre-assembled. Inspect door to make sure the sliding door panel is on correct side for your installation. If not, contact your dealer or supplier immediately. 4. Lay down three (3) 1/4 beads of caulk on the floor where the door sill is to set (figure 4). 5. Run a 1/4 bead of caulk outside of the rough opening behind the area in which the nailing fin overlays the opening (figure 5). 6. From outside, insert door into rough opening bottom first. Be sure to set bottom of door into caulking (figure 6). DO NOT SLIDE THE DOOR INTO THE ROUGH OPENING. 7. Center the door in the rough opening and tack the bottom corners of the side nail fins. Square the entire door by measuring corner to corner then tacking the two upper corners. 8. Adjust trolleys under sliding door panel until panel is level and square to sill. Trolley adjustment can be accessed from the edge of the patio door by removing the round end cap to expose the screw head. 9. Loosen nails tacked in upper corners of nail fins on exterior and adjust main frame of door so that it aligns with sliding door panel. 10. Shim main frame into place (figure 10). 11. Using 2" roofing nails, nail the pre-punched holes in the jamb fins at 8" to 10" intervals. DO NOT NAIL EACH HOLE. 12. Make sure the head of the main frame is straight and level and adjust as needed. Using 2" roofing nails, nail the pre-punched holes in the header fin at 8" to 10" intervals. Again, DO NOT NAIL EACH HOLE. 13. Inspect sliding door panel operation for smooth travel and proper alignment with master frame. 14. Apply the flashing over the nail fin along jambs first. Then apply flashing to the patio door header last (figure 14). If properly applied π, the flashing will eliminate water infiltration and assure a watertight seal. If sidelites are mulled to the patio door, a drip cap is required before the flashing can be applied. 15. Insulate around main frame, but do not over pack as this may bow or distort the frame. Caulk around perimeter of the patio door inside & outside. Do not caulk over the weep holes on the exterior sill WARNING (Failure to follow these instructions renders all warranties as null & void) 1. Do not expose patio doors to direct heat or sunlight. 2. Store all patio doors inside. 3. Stack patio doors as straight as possible to avoid bowing. Do not lay flat. 4. Do not drill through door sill to install alarm wires. Special Note: If broken, glass can fragment causing injury. All Quaker products are available with safety glass. In many areas, local building codes require safety glass in certain locations and/or applications. Unless Quaker's stipulations dictate safety glass or safety glass is specifically ordered, Quaker windows are not provided with safety glass. Before installing, Quaker recommends consulting local building codes for more definitive information. Installation of Replacement Patio Doors NOTE: Your patio door should have additional installation instructions attached when delivered. Refer to these instructions for installation of door hardware and screen adjustment. 1. Check rough opening for proper size for your patio door. Make sure the rough opening is plumb and square (figure 1). 2. With a 6-0 level, check floor inside rough opening for level and straightness (figure 2). There must be no crown or dip in floor as this will cause improper door and screen operation. Correct any problems with floor before proceeding. 3. Patio door is pre-assembled. Inspect door to make sure the sliding door panel is on correct side for your installation. If not, contact your dealer or supplier immediately. 4. Lay down three (3) 1/4 beads of caulk on the floor where the door sill is to set (figure 4). 5. From outside, insert door into rough opening bottom first. Be sure to set bottom of door into caulking (figure 6). DO NOT SLIDE THE DOOR INTO THE ROUGH OPENING. 6. Center door in rough opening. Square the entire door by measuring corner to corner then shim accordingly. 7. Place lock side installation screws into jamb track (same track in which strike is located). Be sure to shim side jambs so that overall width in center is same as top width and bottom width. 8. On fixed panel side, remove the vinyl cover piece on the inside of the jamb with a putty knife. Do this by prying on the rounded edge of the vinyl cover piece at the top interior of the jamb (near the top bumper stop). Place installation screws behind this cover and replace cover when done. 9. Adjust trolleys under sliding door panel until panel is level and square to sill. Trolley adjustment can be accessed from the edge of the patio door by removing the round end cap to expose the screw head. 10. Make sure the head of the main frame is straight and level and adjust as needed. 11. Inspect sliding door panel operation for smooth travel and proper alignment with master frame. 12. Apply support block under the front edge of sill. 13. Insulate around main frame, but do not over pack as this may bow or distort the frame. 14. Caulk around perimeter of patio door inside & outside. Do not caulk over the weep holes at the exterior. π For application instructions, see your authorized Quaker dealer, or call Quaker Window Products at When using House Wraps and OSB substrates, or with applications under 45 F (7 C), spray an application adhesive (available at your Quaker dealer) around the perimeter of the patio door before applying flashing. Different applications require different spray adhesives so please check with your dealer for the proper type. 14 Quaker Window Products reserves the right to implement design modifications &/or product changes at any time which may cause installation instructions to vary slightly. A Tradition of Quality since 1949! 1-05
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5 Please read the following instructions thoroughly before beginning the installation process of the window. The instructions below are intended as a basic guide for window installation, and are suggested installation details. If you require more in-depth instructions, please contact your Quaker dealer. Installation of Brighton Wood Clad Windows in Frame Walls 1. Remove all shipping blocks & cardboard wrapping unless so marked. 2. If window is not going to be finished IMMEDIATELY after installing, wrap window in plastic, or paint with primer if you are painting window to avoid warping. 3. Be sure your rough opening is level, plumb, and square, and the dimensions are correct (fig. 3). The width and height of your rough opening should be a minimum of 1/2" larger than your window size, but not to exceed 1". 4. (fig. 4) Prepare the sill of your rough opening for flashing tape. Make sure that you use the correct flashing tape for your installation application. Cut a piece of tape (it must be a minimum of 12" longer than the rough opening width). Apply the 7a flashing tape by centering it width-wise on the sill stud and adhering it to the rough opening. Flashing tape should touch the back edge of the sill stud but should not go onto the interior side of the stud. Flashing tape should cover the entire width of the sill stud and should extend at least 6" up each jamb. On the exterior side of the rough opening, the flashing tape should extend approximately 9" downward from the sill stud. 5. When installing an operating unit (hung or venting), be sure that the operating sash is closed completely and locked. 6. Using a staple remover, pliers, or flat screwdriver, remove the staples that are securing the retractable nailing fin and foam gaskets. Set the foam gaskets nearby for use in Step Apply a continuous bead of silicone caulk (3/8" wide) to the following places: a) exterior face of the rough opening except on the sill (fig. 7a) b) backside of the nailing fins except on the sill (fig. 7b) 8. Place unit in rough opening from outside, making sure that all 4 sections of nailing fin are standing up. The nailing fin should overlap sheathing. 9. Center window in opening. Leave approximately 1/4" of room on 6" each side Find the pre-punched hole in the nailing fin's top right corner. Using 9" roofing nails (minimum of 1" in length), nail the top right corner through the top nailing fin (fig. 10). 11. From the outside, center the window in the opening. Shim and adjust so that the window is square and level (fig. 11). Important Note: Thickness for 11 all shims should be the same from the inside to the outside to ensure jambs will not bow or hour-glass. 12. Level window and secure opposite top corner with a second nail. Then pull center of window in to measure the same at top or bottom. Again, check the window to make sure it is square and level. If it is not, shim and adjust where needed until the window is level, plumb, and square. An even reveal around the window's frame should be seen. 13. Nail the two remaining corners. Note: Units over 36" wide will require blocking under the window sill. 14. Place one (1) foam gasket at each corner (fig. 14) to fill the void between the horizontal and vertical nailing fin. The gasket should overlap each nailing fin it contacts, as well as the sheathing. Run a bead of caulk along the entire edge of the gasket (fig. 14a) where it touches the main frame. 15. Complete nailing around perimeter. Going around the perimeter of the nailing fin at 8" to 10" intervals, nail the pre-punched holes. DO NOT NAIL EACH HOLE. 16. Check the window's operation. Window should work properly if installation is correct. Do not apply interior trim until window works properly. Please note: When adjusting casement windows, it is not uncommon for them to shift during shipment. If operating sash is dragging on top, bottom or sides, there is an adjustment on the hardware to fix this. You will need an adjustment wrench. If you do not have one, they can be supplied by Quaker at the request of your local dealer. There is a metal nut under the operating arm that hooks onto the WARNING (Failure to follow these instructions renders all warranties as null & void) 1. Store all windows inside. During construction stage of home, do not expose wood interior to moisture, soiling, direct sunlight, temperature extremes or dramatic changes in humidity. Manufacturer assumes no responsibility for defacing, warping, splitting or de-lamination caused by failure to finish properly or faulty installation. 2. Stack windows as straight as possible to avoid bowing. Do not lay flat. 3. Do not drill through window sill to install alarm wires. 4. If using muriatic acid or brick wash cleaning solutions, please follow the manufacturer s instructions found on the product label or on the manufacturer s website. Special Note: If broken, glass can fragment causing injury. All Quaker products are available with safety glass. In many areas, local building codes require safety glass in certain locations and/or applications. Unless Quaker's stipulations dictate safety glass or safety glass is specifically ordered, Quaker windows are not provided with safety glass. Before installing, Quaker recommends consulting local building codes for more definitive information. 14a 7b 14 sash at the top and bottom of the window. Slide the wrench onto this nut and adjust to the left or right to shift the sash into the opening. Find a location that prevents the sash from dragging and still ensure a weather tight seal from the interior. 17. On the interior, shim side jambs and jack stud to provide straight true jambs. Window should measure the same in center as at the top and bottom on inside of the house. On wide units, block sill between window sill and rough sill. 18. Vertically mulled units require a drip cap before the flashing tape is applied. Flash the nail fins along jambs. Then apply flashing tape to window header last (fig. 18). If properly applied π, the flashing tape will eliminate water infiltration and ensure a watertight seal. Important note: House wraps must be diagonally cut at the header and must overlap the flashing tape on the header only. 19. Place insulation strips (fiberglass or similar) between the window frame and rough opening to eliminate cold drafts. DO NOT OVER-PACK INSULATION. Also, do not use expanding or spray-in type foams. They will distort the window frame, causing operating and performance problems. Doing so will also void any warranty. Caulk around the entire interior perimeter of the window. 20. Remove center band at this time. 21. Keep siding material 1/4" off the window head, so that pressure will not cause the window head to sag, and possibly damage glass and hinder the window's operation. If working with masonry or brick applications, see steps below. π For application instructions, see your authorized Quaker dealer, or call Quaker Window Products at When using House Wraps and OSB substrates, or with applications under 45 F (7 C), spray an application adhesive (available at your Quaker dealer) around the perimeter of the window before applying flashing tape. Different applications require different spray adhesives so please check with your dealer for the proper type. Installation of Brighton wood clad windows into Masonry & Brick Veneer Walls Follow same steps as shown at left but also: 1. Allow a 1/4" minimum clearance between the window sill and the brick to allow for expansion and setting. 2. Fill the void with silicone caulking. Quaker Window Products reserves the right to implement design modifications &/or product changes at any time which may cause installation instructions to vary slightly. A Tradition of Quality Since 1949! 10-06
6 TM 2-08 Installation of Classic Fit Wood Clad Windows Preparation 1. Remove inside trim stops on existing window opening. 2. Remove existing lower sash by cutting sash cord or chain. Sash weights will fall. 3. Remove lower sash & parting stops at sides and top. 4. Remove upper sash in the same manner as lower sash. 5. Remove all pulley assemblies and plug holes with insulation. 6. If installing exterior casing covers (i.e. coil stock, break metal), now is the time to put on the sill cover. Extend it far enough on the sill so the new window will come down on top of it. 7. Caulk interior side of blindstop top and sides. Caulk inside edge of existing stool where window sill butts against stool. 8. Caulk the head of the rough opening in two places, so that when the window is inserted into the opening, the window head will press against it. 9. Place a strip of insulation on the sill. Set the window in the opening. Push out to stops. Installation 1. Pack insulation around side jambs. DO NOT OVER-PACK INSULATION. ALSO, DO NOT USE EXPANDING OR SPRAY-IN TYPE FOAMS as they could distort the window frame, causing operating and performance problems. Doing so will also void any warranty. 2. Lock up the window and check for squareness. Adjust as required. Sash MUST be square to master frame and bottom sash MUST sit evenly on sill. Shim window at jambs and wherever else accordingly. DO NOT OVERSHIM. 3. Secure window in place using installation screws through jambs. The number of screws used will depend on the window s height. Place screws approximately 12 to 16 apart. Bring screws up snug, but do not overtighten. 4. Check for even alignment of both sashes to side jambs. 5. Open locks and check the window's operation. Window should work properly if installation is correct. Do not apply trim until window works properly. 6. Snap in the exterior head or jamb trim if needed. Caulk and seal around it. 7. Caulk around perimeter of window inside & outside. Please read the following instructions thoroughly before beginning the installation process of the window. The instructions below are intended as a basic guide for window installation. If you require more in-depth instructions, please contact your Quaker window dealer. WARNING (Failure to follow these instructions renders all warranties as null & void) 1.Per Quaker Window s Lifetime Limited Warranty, the interior of Quaker s wood windows and patio doors must be painted or stained within one (1) month after invoice date. If interior wood is not painted or stained within one (1) month of invoice date, warranty is null and void. 2. Store all windows inside. During construction stage of home, do not expose wood interior to moisture, soiling, direct sunlight, temperature extremes or dramatic changes in humidity. Manufacturer assumes no responsibility for defacing, warping, splitting or de-lamination caused by failure to finish properly or faulty installation. 3.Stack windows as straight as possible to avoid bowing. Do not lay flat. 4. Do not drill through window sill to install alarm wires. 5. If using muriatic acid or brick wash cleaning solutions, please follow the manufacturer s instructions found on the product label or on the manufacturer s website. Special Note: If broken, glass can fragment causing injury. All Quaker products are available with safety glass. In many areas, local building codes require safety glass in certain locations and/or applications. Unless Quaker's stipulations dictate safety glass or safety glass is specifically ordered, Quaker windows are not provided with safety glass. Before installing, Quaker recommends consulting local building codes for more definitive information. Quaker Window Products reserves the right to implement design modifications &/or product changes at any time which may cause installation instructions to vary slightly. A Tradition of Quality since 1949!
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9 2-08 General Installation Instructions for Quaker Wood Clad Patio Doors Please read the following instructions thoroughly before beginning the installation process of your patio door. The instructions below are intended as a basic guide for patio door installation, and are suggested installation details. If you require more in-depth instructions, please contact your Quaker dealer. Installation of New Construction Patio Doors in Wall Frame NOTE: Your patio door should have additional installation instructions attached when delivered. Refer to these instructions for installation of door hardware and screen adjustment (if applicable). 1) Check rough opening for proper size for your patio door. Rough opening size should be ½ larger in width and ½ larger in height. 2) Check the door opening to ensure it is plumb, level and square (Fig. 2a). Check for square by measuring diagonally (Fig. 2b). Both diagonal measurements should be the same. Check for plumb by placing a level on both vertical studs. Both studs should be perfectly vertical. 3) With a 6 level, check floor inside rough opening for level and straightness (Fig. 2a). The floor must be level, flat and free of voids, holes chipping and other conditions. Correct any problems with floor before proceeding. Failure to do so could cause the seal to fail as well as improper door and screen operation. 4) Patio door is pre-assembled. Inspect door to make sure the operational set-up is correct. If not, contact your dealer or supplier immediately. 5) Remove the shipping materials from the unit. Remove the nailing fins (silver aluminum angles) from the interior sides and top of the unit. DO NOT THROW THESE AWAY! 6) Install the nail fins to the door. Note: If mulled units are to be installed with nail fins, Quaker recommends an aluminum drip cap be applied to the top of the unit before the nail fin. (Fig. 6). 7) Measure the frame width inside out to determine nail fin location for wall openings such as 4 9/16. Line up the ridges in the fins to the slots on the door unit and fasten the nail fin in place using the (18) #6 x 1 self-tapping screws provided (Fig. 6). 8) Place the gray corner seal gaskets provided over the nail fin corners on the exterior side of the door frame corner, this will seal the corners of the unit. 9) Install optional brickmold by snapping the brickmold into place (Fig. 9). If door was ordered without brickmold, skip this step and go to step 10): 10)Test fit the unit and draw a line around the perimeter where the nailing fin or brickmold fin will lie against the exterior wall. (This line will be a guide for sealing the sill and the unit.) 11)Remove door from test fit and apply three (3) 3/8 continuous beads of sealant across the full length of sub-floor (fig. 11). These beads must be no further than 4 ½ inside the pencil line created in step 10. If a wood sub-floor is present, flashing needs to be applied below the sill before installation. Note: All surfaces contacting sealant must be clean, dry and free of all contaminants prior to applying sealant. 12)Run a 3/8 bead of caulk outside of the rough opening behind the area in which the nailing fin or brickmold fin overlays the opening (fig 12). 13)Remove brackets holding any operational panels in place. 14)Place the unit into the opening. From outside, insert door into rough opening bottom first. Be sure to set bottom of door into caulking (Fig. 14). DO NOT SLIDE THE DOOR INTO THE ROUGH OPENING. 15)Center the door in the rough opening and tack the bottom corners of the side nail fins. Square the entire door by measuring corner to corner then tacking the two upper corners. 16)Place wood shims as shown in (Fig 16). On swinging units, adjust shims so that there is a consistent gap between the panel and the jambs on the entire unit. Shims should be placed directly behind each hinge where one screw has been left out. After shimmed behind each of these locations correctly, install the #8 X 3 screws provided to anchor side jamb and hinge into wall stud. 17)FOR SLIDING UNITS ONLY: Adjust shims so that the unit is square and level. Adjust trolleys under sliding door panel until it is level and square to sill. 18)Assure that the unit is plumb by placing a level on the outside of the jambs. Jambs must be perfectly vertical. Panels must be flush to jamb and/or other panels depending on operation. 19)Loosen nails tacked in upper corners of nail fins on exterior and adjust main frame of door so that it aligns with sliding door panel. 20)Using 2 1/2" roofing nails or drywall screws, nail the pre-punched holes in the nailing fins or brickmold fin along each jamb. Do this at 8" to 10" intervals. DO NOT NAIL EACH HOLE. 21)Make sure the head of the main frame is straight and level and adjust as needed. Using 2 1/2" roofing nails, nail the pre-punched holes in the nailing fin or brickmold fin on the header fin at 8" to 10" intervals. Again, DO NOT NAIL EACH HOLE. 2a b WARNING (Failure to follow these instructions renders all warranties as null & void) 1. Store all patio doors inside. During construction stage, do not expose wood interior to moisture, soiling, direct sunlight, temperature extremes or dramatic changes in humidity. Manufacturer assumes no responsibility for defacing, warping, splitting or de-lamination caused by failure to finish properly or faulty installation. 2. Stand patio doors as straight as possible to avoid bowing. Do not lay flat. 3. Do not drill through patio doors sill to install alarm wires. 4. If using muriatic acid or brick wash cleaning solutions, please follow the manufacturer s instructions found on the product label or on the manufacturer s website. Special Note: Unless specified otherwise, your Quaker wood clad patio door will contain standard glass package, which is: Tempered (Safety), Dual-pane Insulated Glass with Low-E and argon gas fill. 3/4 overall thickness. 1/8 pane thickness. Before installing, Quaker recommends consulting local building codes for more definitive information. Safety glass can be broken. If broken, glass can fragment causing injury. 22)Inspect for smooth operation and proper alignment with master frame. FOR SLIDING UNITS ONLY: open the panel so that there is a ½ gap between the edge of the door and the jamb. If the gap is not consistent, adjust the rollers at the bottom of the panel until the gap is consistent. Turning the adjustment screw counter clockwise raises the panel. After the panels are properly adjusted insert the cap plugs provided into the adjustment holes. 23) Apply the flashing over the nail fin along jambs first. Then apply flashing to the patio door header last (fig. 23). If properly applied π, the flashing will eliminate water infiltration and assure a watertight seal. If sidelites are mulled to the patio door, a drip cap is required before the flashing can be applied. 24)Insulate around main frame, but do not over pack as this may bow or distort the frame. 25)Caulk around perimeter of the patio door inside & outside. When using House Wraps and OSB substrates, or with applications under 45 F (7 C), spray an application adhesive (available at your Quaker dealer) around the perimeter of the patio door before applying flashing. Different applications require different spray adhesives so please check with your dealer for the proper type. π For application instructions, see your authorized Quaker dealer, or call Quaker Window Products Company at Installation of Replacement Patio Doors NOTE: Your patio door should have additional installation instructions attached when delivered. Refer to these instructions for installation of door hardware and screen adjustment (if applicable). 25 1) Follow Steps 1 through 4 of New Construction instructions. 2) Measure in from the exterior side of the unit 2 5/8 and mark this at three (3) points along each side jamb. Then drill a 1/8 pilot hole through the entire unit at each of the six (6) marked places. After the pilot hole has been created, drill a 25/64 hole through the aluminum cladding only. (Fig. 25) 3) Test fit the unit and draw a line on the inside of the sill on the sub-floor. (This line will be a guide for sealing the sill and the unit.) 4) Remove door from test fit and apply three (3) 3/8 beads of caulk across the full length of sub-floor (Fig. 11). Note: All surfaces contacting sealant must be clean, dry and free of all contaminants prior to applying sealant. 5) From outside, insert door into rough opening bottom first. Be sure to set bottom of door into caulking (Fig. 14). DO NOT SLIDE THE DOOR INTO THE ROUGH OPENING. 6) Center door in rough opening. Square the entire door by measuring corner to corner then shim accordingly. 7) Remove brackets holding any operational panels in place. 8) Secure the unit to the studs with 2 1/2 drywall screws, through the holes you drilled in the jambs. Apply sealant around the hole you drilled and insert the provided plastic plugs. 9) Re-measure and if necessary, adjust shims on side jambs so that overall width in center is same as top width and bottom width. Assure that the unit is plumb by placing a level on the outside of the jambs. Jambs must be perfectly vertical. Panels must be flush to jamb and/or other panels depending on operation. 10)Make sure the head of the main frame is straight and level. Adjust and shim as needed. 11)Inspect for smooth operation and proper alignment with master frame. FOR SLIDING UNITS ONLY: open the panel so that there is a ½ gap between the edge of the door and the jamb. If the gap is not consistent, adjust the rollers at the bottom of the panel until the gap is consistent. Turning the adjustment screw counter clockwise raises the panel. After the panels are properly adjusted insert the cap plugs provided into the adjustment holes. 12)Insulate around main frame, but do not over pack as this may bow or distort the frame. 13)Caulk around perimeter of patio door inside & outside. Quaker Window Products Co., Inc. reserves the right to implement design modifications &/or product changes at any time which may cause installation instructions to vary slightly.
10 GETTING READY TO INSTALL DOOR UNIT FINISHING AND MAINTENANCE PREPARE THE OPENING SQUARE Make sure rough opening is square. Rough opening should be no less that 1/2 wider and 1/4 taller than outside dimension of frame. ROUGH OPENING PLUMB Jambs must be plumb and straight. Use plumb bob or level to check that top of jamb is not tipped in or out in relation to bottom. Door will not seal evenly along weatherstrip. ROUGH OPENING SUB-FLOOR FLAT, LEVEL Sub-flooring under door must be flat, level, and smooth. Failure to ensure this may result in improper operation of the door and water & air infiltration. ROUGH OPENING A B SQUARE: LINE A = LINE B FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS INSTALLATION OF THIS PRODUCT IS NOT COMPLETE UNTIL ALL EXPOSED WOOD SUR- FACES HAVE BEEN SEALED. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN POOR PERFORMANCE, IN- TRUSION OF MOISTURE INTO THE WOOD FIBER, AND DETERIORATION OF THE PRODUCT. FAILURE TO PROPERLY FINISH THIS PRODUCT WITHIN 30 DAYS OF INSTALLATION MAY VOID THE WARRANTY. EXPOSED WOOD SURFACES INCLUDE: ALL FOUR EDGES OF EACH DOOR PANEL INSIDE OF LOCK ROUTES, ROLLER POCKETS (SLIDING DOORS) USE ONLY HIGH QUALITY MATERIALS THAT SEAL THE WOOD. REGULAR REFINISHING MAY BE NECESSARY TO PREVENT MOISTURE INTRUSION INTO WOOD FIBER. FAILURE TO INSTALL AND FINISH DOOR UNITS PROPERLY WILL VOID WARRANTY.
11
12 FIGURE 1 FIGURE 3 MITERED PANNING CORNER FIGURE 2
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