SOUTHERN INDIA & SRI LANKA

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1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Southern India & Sri Lanka SOUTHERN INDIA & SRI LANKA Including The Andaman Islands Main Tour Duration: 20 days Andamans Pre-Tour Extension: 7 days Group Size Limit: 9 Tour Category: Easy to Moderate White-bellied Treepie (Craig Robson) avifauna, making birding in the region a delight. During our exploration of this marvellous area, we will travel through the southern states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala and we have a good chance of finding all of the region s key specialities. Our adventure will begin at the dry deciduous forests and open, scrubby country around Mudumalai, which harbour a wide range of specialities including Blue-faced Malkoha, White-cheeked Barbet, Malabar Lark, Greyheaded and White-browed Bulbuls, Yellow-billed Babbler, Indian Nuthatch and Nilgiri Flowerpecker. We will then motor up to Ooty (Ootacamund), a former colonial hill station in the Nilgiri Hills where the relict patches of forest hold specialities such as Grey Junglefowl, Nilgiri Woodpigeon, Indian Scimitar Babbler, Black-chinned (or Nilgiri) Laughingthrush, the spectacular Black-and-orange Flycatcher, Nilgiri Flycatcher, White-spotted Fantail, Nilgiri Blue Robin and Indian Blackbird. To the south, in the hills around Munnar, the rolling grasslands above the tea estates hold Nilgiri Pipit and the forested sholas and lower altitude relict forest patches provide a home for Grey-fronted Green Pigeon, Kerala (or Grey-breasted) Laughingthrush, White-bellied Blue Robin and Crimsonbacked (or Small) Sunbird. Continuing south, we will search for the uncommon Yellow-throated Bulbul, while at Periyar National Park the specialities include Crested Hawk-Eagle, Malabar The Indian subcontinent is one of the greatest birding destinations on the planet. Despite the accelerating pace of development, birds are still omnipresent, abundant and tame in a way that is unknown elsewhere in Asia. Even more importantly, the subcontinent has a veritable feast of special birds, and there is no region in this important part of Asia that is richer in endemics than Southern India, Sri Lanka and the Andaman Islands, which between them hold the extraordinary total of 109 endemic species! Southern India is one of the jewels in the crown of Indian subcontinent birding. With 37 endemics (even more than possessed by Sri Lanka) and 18 regional endemics shared only with Sri Lanka, it clearly commands attention. Southern India is also the region where the subcontinent s distinctive culture is at its most intense, but compared to the more densely populated northern Indian states, the pace of life here is a little slower and gentler, and the lush, green countryside is somehow more vivid. The endemic birds of southern India are very varied, ranging from the svelte Grey Junglefowl to three smart laughingthrushes and the perky Black-andorange Flycatcher. Most of the endemics are restricted to the Western Ghats, a complex of forested hills and mountains that parallels the west coast of the peninsula and which have a profound effect on the region s climate. Although situated far to the south of the Himalayas, they show strong ornithological affinities with them, many Himalayan forms reappearing here whilst occurring nowhere else in the peninsula. The Western Ghats may not be as high as the Himalayas, reaching only 2695m at their highest point, but they have their own unique splendour. An excellent system of national parks protects large tracts of pristine forest and grassland, and these in turn harbour good numbers of large mammals and a diverse

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Southern India & Sri Lanka Parakeet, Jerdon s Nightjar, Indian Swiftlet, the beautiful Malabar Trogon, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Crimson-throated (or Malabar) Barbet, Yellowbrowed Bulbul, Malabar Woodshrike, the shy Wynaad Laughingthrush, Rufous and Dark-fronted Babblers, Malabar Whistling Thrush, White-bellied Blue Flycatcher, White-bellied Treepie, Malabar White-headed (or Blyth s) Starling and Rufousbellied Munia. Finally, we will take our leave of the Western Ghats and head for Cochin prior to our flight across to the island of Sri Lanka. If you gaze at an atlas, Sri Lanka, the one-time Ceylon, seems like a large teardrop falling into the ocean from the southern tip of the Indian peninsula. This green and beautiful island attracts many western visitors, and for the birdwatcher it is the 35 endemic species that are the most exciting prize of a visit to this jewel of the Indian Ocean. We shall be concentrating on trying to see all of these, from the secretive Sri Lanka Spurfowl and spectacular Sri Lanka Blue Magpie to the recentlydescribed Serendib Scops Owl and the tiny Legge s Flowerpecker, during our visit. Sri Lanka has a great deal more to offer those interested in Asian birds than its Red-faced Malkohas (Craig Robson) large number of endemic specialities, as it not only possesses a comparatively rich resident avifauna (including a host of restricted-range species shared only with peninsular India), but also hosts an exciting selection of migrant visitors from both northern Asia and the Indian subcontinent. Combine the island s excellent birding with attractive scenery and an ancient culture and you have a potent combination. Not only does Sri Lanka have a diverse avifauna but, after two millennia of Buddhist-inspired regard for wildlife, many birds are tame and approachable, whilst even large mammals, including Asian Elephants, survive in good numbers in spite of a burgeoning human population. Our itinerary is specially designed to cover all the Sri Lankan endemic specialities and during our journey through the island we will cover all the principal habitats, including the lowland and foothill rainforests of the wet zone, the jungles of the dry zone and the grasslands and cloud forests of the highlands. Following our arrival at Colombo airport, we head eastwards to Kitulgala in the foothills, home of such endemics as Sri Lanka Junglefowl, Sri Lanka Green Pigeon, Serendib Scops Owl, Chestnut-backed Owlet, Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, Yellowfronted Barbet, Black-capped Bulbul, Spot-winged Thrush, Brown-capped and Orangebilled Babblers, Sri Lanka Scimitar Babbler, Legge s Flowerpecker and Sri Lanka Crested Drongo. Our next port of call is the superb Sinharaja Forest, the largest tract of surviving rainforest in Sri Lanka and home to the majority of the island s endemic birds, and in particular Sri Lanka Spurfowl, the spectacular Red-faced Malkoha, Crimsonfronted Barbet, Ashy-headed Laughingthrush, White-faced Starling, Sri Lanka Myna and Sri Lanka Blue Magpie. From here we travel into the dry zone of the southeast, first visiting Uda Walawe National Park, home of the endemic Sri Lanka Swallow and Sri Lanka Woodshrike, as well as many other interesting birds, and then exploring the bird-rich tanks and coastal lagoons at Tissamaharama and Bundala. From the dry zone we climb up into the central massif, to Nuwara Eliya and the cool uplands of Horton Plains National Park, where we will be looking for such endemics as Sri Lanka Woodpigeon, Crimson-backed Flameback, Yellow-eared Bulbul, the elusive Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush, Sri Lanka Scaly Thrush, the skulking Sri Lanka Bush Warbler, Dullblue Flycatcher, Sri Lanka White-eye and Black-throated Munia, and also for exciting winter visitors such as the beautiful Indian Pitta, Kashmir Flycatcher and the handsome Pied Thrush. Finally, we will visit ancient Kandy before the time comes for us to leave this fascinating and beautiful part of the world. During the optional pre-tour extension we will travel east across the sparkling Andaman Sea to the Andaman Islands. Lying around 1100 kilometres (nearly 700 miles) to the east of peninsula India, this archipelago is remote from the subcontinent and, indeed, is rather closer to southern Burma and Sumatra. This isolation is reflected in the avifauna, which has more affinities with the Malaysian subregion than with India. With 21 endemics (some shared with the Nicobar Islands), including five owls and such spectacular species as Andaman Serpent Eagle, Andaman Woodpecker and Andaman Treepie, a visit to the Andaman Islands is a marvellous addition to this superb tour. Birdquest has operated tours to southern India since 1985 and to Sri Lanka since Itinerary Day 1 The tour begins this morning at Mysore airport. From here we will head southwards to the edge of Mudumalai National Park, situated at the foot of the towering northern escarpment of the Nilgiri Hills, for a two nights stay. Along the way we should see such widespread species as Little Cormorant, Indian Pond Heron, Great, Eastern Cattle, Intermediate and Little Egrets, Red-naped Ibis, Black and Brahminy Kites, Grey-headed Swamphen, Red-wattled Lapwing, White-throated Kingfisher, Indian Roller, Barn and Red-rumped Swallows, Common Myna, House Crow, Indian Jungle Crow (split from Large-billed), Red-whiskered Bulbul and Pied Bushchat. After a chance to freshen up at our accommodation we will have our first opportunity to explore the Mudumalai area. Day 2 Mudumalai (together with the adjacent Bandipur sanctuary in Karnataka state) comprises a huge area of mainly dry deciduous forest and scrub. At this time of year the trees are bare and the ground is littered with huge dried leaves like a carpet of poppadoms, making it easy to see the birds but noisy underfoot. The sanctuaries and

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Southern India & Sri Lanka their buffer zones are situated in the lowlands at the foot of the Nilgiris and the seemingly endless landscape of leafless trees and dry grassland looks as if it must be devoid of birds, but in fact there is a rich variety. Amongst the many species we may well see here are such Peninsular Indian endemics and near-endemics as Blue-faced Malkoha, White-cheeked Barbet, Malabar Lark, Grey-headed and White-browed Bulbuls, Yellow-billed Babbler, Indian Nuthatch (now treated as distinct from Chestnut-bellied) and Nilgiri Flowerpecker (split from Plain). We will also make a special effort to find the secretive Painted Bush Quail. More widespread birds include Crested Serpent Eagle, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Spotted Dove, Plum-headed Parakeet, Asian Koel, Spotted Owlet, Crested Treeswift, Bluebearded Bee-eater, Eurasian Hoopoe, Coppersmith Barbet, Streak-throated Woodpecker, Black-rumped and Common Flamebacks, Brown, Bay-backed and Longtailed Shrikes, Black, Ashy, White-bellied and Bronzed Drongos, Black-headed Cuckoo-Shrike, Brahminy Starling, Black-hooded Oriole, Rufous Treepie, Small Minivet, Orange Minivet (split from Scarlet), Common Iora, Gold-fronted Leafbird, Red-vented Bulbul, Browncheeked Fulvetta, Common Tailorbird, Blyth s Reed and Greenish Warblers, Oriental Grey Junglefowl (Craig Robson) Magpie-Robin, Indian Robin, Tickell s Blue Flycatcher, White-browed Fantail, Palebilled Flowerpecker, Purplerumped and Purple Sunbirds, and Chestnut-shouldered (or Yellow-throated) Sparrow. If we are lucky we will also find White-naped Woodpecker or the highly localized Whitebellied Minivet. Day 3 After some final birding in the Mudumalai area we will climb up into the steep, forested slopes of the Nilgiri Hills to Ootacamund (usually shortened to Ooty ) for an overnight stay, stopping for some birding en route. Day 4 Ooty is a sprawling hill-station situated at about 2250m (7382ft) in the Nilgiri Hills. The town has a distinctly colonial atmosphere and it is still popular as a place to escape to from the high temperatures of the lowlands immediately before the arrival of the monsoon rains. As in many parts of the Western Ghats, most of the natural forest has been replaced with tea plantations and also by eucalyptus and conifer plantations. We shall search some ravines with remaining natural forest for Nilgiri or more widespread South Indian specialities such as Grey Junglefowl, Indian Scimitar Babbler (split from Whitebrowed), Black-chinned (or Nilgiri) Laughingthrush, the spectacular Black-and-orange Flycatcher, Nilgiri Flycatcher, White-spotted Fantail (split from White-throated), the unobtrusive Nilgiri Blue Robin (formerly included with the shortwings, as Whitebellied Shortwing, and often surprisingly confiding) and Indian Blackbird (split from Common), while if we are in luck we will also see the uncommon Nilgiri Wood Pigeon. Other species we may well find include Barwinged Flycatcher-Shrike, Grey-headed Flycatcher, Ashy Prinia, Tickell s Leaf Warbler, Indian Blue Robin, Bluecapped Rock Thrush, Velvetfronted Nuthatch, Olivebacked Pipit, Forest Wagtail, Oriental White-eye and Common Rosefinch. Likely mammals include Nilgiri Langur and Indian Giant Squirrel. From Ooty we will descend from the Nilgiri Hills into the plains to Coimbatore for an overnight stay. Day 5 Today we head southwards as we head up into the High Range for a two nights stay at Munnar. On the way we will look out for troops of wizenedlooking Bonnet Macaques and handsome Southern Plains Grey Langurs that are a feature of the journey. This afternoon we will commence our exploration of the Munnar region. Day 6 Munnar is situated at 1450m (4757ft) and is the centre of a major tea producing region. In consequence, most of the natural forest has been cleared, although remnants still survive. We shall, however, be concentrating our efforts on the plateau of the High Range at Rajamalai (part of the Eravikulam National Park), above the highest tea plantations. This scenically spectacular area comprises a series of high, rounded, bare, rocky whalebacks interspersed with grassland and dense patches of natural evergreen forest (known as sholas ) in the sheltered valleys and hollows. Rhododendrons are a particular feature of the sholas although most will not be in flower at the time of our visit. This is a rather specialized habitat but the limited variety of species includes several endemics Kerala (or Greybreasted) Laughingthrush, White-bellied Blue Robin (previously treated as a race of Nilgiri Blue Robin) and Nilgiri Pipit. We have another chance here for Nilgiri Wood Pigeon and if we are in luck we will find Painted Bush Quail or Broad-tailed Grassbird (or Indian Broad-tailed Grass Warbler). Other species we may find in the area are Bonelli s and Black Eagles, Alpine Swift, Hill Swallow (split from Pacific), Squaretailed Black Bulbul (split from Himalayan Black), Blue Rock Thrush and Western Crowned Warbler. The grassy plateau is also one of the last haunts of the rare Nilgiri Tahr, a curious kind of wild goat with small horns, and we have a good chance of finding some. Patches of remaining forest at lower altitudes hold the endemic Grey-fronted Green Pigeon and the endemic Crimson-backed (or Small) Sunbird, as well as Asian Fairy-Bluebird and Southern (or Lesser) Hill Myna (split from Common Hill Myna). We may also come across Mountain Imperial Pigeon. Day 7 This morning we will visit a good area for the uncommon endemic Yellow-throated Bulbul before continuing to Periyar National Park for a two nights stay. This afternoon we will begin our exploration of the park. Day 8 The extensive forests of Periyar National Park are justly famed for their wildlife, and in particular for the numbers of large mammals, including the magnificent Gaur (or Indian Bison), Wild Boar, Chital (or Spotted Deer) and Sambar. The handsome endemic Nilgiri Langur is also particularly common here. During our stay we shall concentrate on the mixed and evergreen forest and

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Southern India & Sri Lanka some of the endemic and near-endemic species we shall be hoping to see are Crested Hawk-Eagle, Malabar Parakeet, Jerdon s Nightjar, Indian Swiftlet, the beautiful Malabar Trogon, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Crimsonthroated (or Malabar) Barbet, Yellow-browed Bulbul, Malabar Woodshrike (split from Large), the shy Wynaad Laughingthrush, Rufous and Dark-fronted Babblers, Malabar Whistling Thrush, White-bellied Blue Flycatcher, White-bellied Treepie, Malabar White-headed (or Blyth s) Starling (split from Chestnut-tailed) and Rufousbellied Munia (split from Black-throated). Other species which we may well also find at Periyar include Oriental (or Crested) Honey-Buzzard, Indian Peafowl, White-breasted Waterhen, Emerald Dove, Vernal Hanging Parrot, Greater Coucal, Jungle Owlet (of the distinctive race malabaricum), Little Swift, Chestnut-headed and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, the huge Great Hornbill, Brown-capped Pygmy, Whitebellied, Heart-spotted and possibly Rufous Woodpeckers, Lesser Yellownape, Greater Flameback, Paddyfield Pipit, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Indian Golden Oriole (split from Eurasian), Large Cuckoo- Shrike, Black-naped Monarch, Asian Paradise-Flycatcher, Grey-breasted Prinia and Spot-winged Thrush (Craig Robson) wintering Brown-breasted and Rusty-tailed Flycatchers, and Large-billed Leaf and Green Warblers. If we are quiet on the forest trails we may hear the gentle rustle of dry leaves, usually the first sign of a feeding Red Spurfowl, Indian Pitta, Puff-throated Babbler or Orange-headed Thrush. Sri Lanka Frogmouth occurs in these forests and we may be able to locate one or two at a daytime roost (where their beautiful and intricately mottled plumage makes them amazingly hard to pick out). Oriental Scops Owls are remarkably common here and we may also encounter Indian Scops Owl and Brown Boobook (or Brown Hawk- Owl). Day 9 After some final birding at Periyar, we will leave the Western Ghats behind and head for Cochin for an overnight stay. We may see our first Rose-ringed Parakeets and Asian Palm Swifts during the journey. Day 10 Morning flight to Colombo airport, situated near Negombo, from where we will drive to Kitulgala for a two nights stay, passing first across the coastal plain and then through foothill country with rubber estates and small rural villages. We should see our first Ashy Woodswallows along the way, The resthouse at Kitulgala is picturesquely situated on the banks of the Kelani River, where Bridge over the River Kwai was filmed. During the late afternoon we will set out for some birding in the Kelani River Forest Reserve on the opposite bank. Day 11 The Kelani River Forest Reserve consists of steep, partly forested slopes intersected by several watercourses, areas of tall forest with fairly dense undergrowth and a few clearings where former swamps have been converted into small rice paddies. We shall be exploring the lower section of the reserve between about m. This is a very good area for most Sri Lankan wet zone forest birds, including many of the endemics. Of the latter we can expect to easily find Sri Lanka Junglefowl, Sri Lanka Green Pigeon (formerly known as Pompadour Green Pigeon, this species is now restricted to Sri Lanka, following the splitting up of the complex), Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot, Layard s Parakeet, Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, Yellowfronted Barbet, Crimsonfronted Barbet (now treated as specifically distinct from Crimson-throated Barbet of south India), Black-capped Bulbul (split from Blackcrested), Brown-capped and Orange-billed Babblers, Sri Lanka Scimitar Babbler (split from Indian), Legge s (or White-throated) Flowerpecker and Sri Lanka Crested Drongo (split from Greater Rackettailed), whilst we also have one of our best chances here for the secretive Greenbilled Coucal, the recentlydiscovered Serendib Scops Owl, Chestnut-backed Owlet and Spot-winged Thrush. Other birds we could well encounter at Kelani River include Rufous-bellied Eagle, Green Imperial Pigeon, Alexandrine Parakeet, the huge Stork-billed Kingfisher, Brown-headed Barbet, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Loten s (or Long-billed) Sunbird (endemic to Sri Lanka and southern India) and White-rumped Munia. Day 12 Today we will drive to Sinharaja for a three nights stay. If the weather is fine as we approach the base of the central mountain massif of Sri Lanka, we should be able to see Adam s Peak (2249m) to the northeast. Sinharaja is situated in the area of heaviest rainfall, receiving up to five metres of rain every year! The surrounding region is famous for its gem-bearing gravels and the temple of Saman Devale (which controls religious activities on top of the holy mountain, Adam s Peak) owns many gem-producing lands, some of which have produced rubies, sapphires and cat seyes since the dawn of history, and is very rich. During the afternoon we will begin our exploration of the Sinharaja area. Days Sinharaja World Heritage Site, a superb tract of rainforest which extends to some 10,000 hectares, was saved from large-scale logging about 20 years ago and the one area of the forest which was selectively logged has dramatically recovered during the intervening period. Sinharaja is the last area of rainforest of any size left in Sri Lanka and today is a National Heritage Wilderness area under the administration of the Forest Department, as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The forest, which is dominated by dipterocarps, lies at an elevation of about m and is very rich in both plants and animals, with the largest selection of endemic birds on the island. As one walks along the forest tracks amongst trees festooned with parasitic orchids and creepers, giant Ceylon Tree Nymphs (very large butterflies) flap slowly along and strange Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizards scuttle past before disappearing amongst the thick understorey. As well as offering another chance to see those forest birds that can also be found at Kitulgala,

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Southern India & Sri Lanka Sri Lanka Bay Owl (Tony Disley) Sinharaja provides our only opportunity to see such endemics as the spectacular Red-faced Malkoha, Ashyheaded Laughingthrush and White-faced Starling, and our best chances for Sri Lanka Spurfowl, Sri Lanka Myna and Sri Lanka Blue Magpie. We also have another chance to look for Sri Lanka Frogmouth. If we are extremely lucky we will even come across the rare and poorly-known Sri Lanka Bay Owl (split from Oriental Bay), a species restricted to Sri Lanka and southern India. Overhead, we may well see the endemic Legge s Hawk- Eagle (split from Mountain) and Brown-backed Needletail. Mammals are not conspicuous but we should see troops of endemic Purple-faced Leaf Monkeys moving through the canopy and we may also encounter the impressive Sri Lanka Giant Squirrel. Day 15 This morning we will continue onwards to the Dry Zone of southeastern Sri Lanka for an overnight stay at the small town of Embilipitiya. The journey takes us along the base of the central massif, through rice paddies, and rubber and tea plantations. This afternoon we will visit the attractive Uda Walawe National Park which surrounds a large reservoir and enjoys a scenic backdrop formed by the Kaltota Escarpment and the central mountain range. The park was set up to protect a healthy resident population of some 300 Asian Elephants and other mammals that are regularly seen here include Chital (or Spotted Deer), Eurasian Wild Boar, Toque Macaque and Tufted Grey Langur. Uda Walawe has a diverse avifauna and is notable for its raptors, which include Black-shouldered Kite, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle and wintering Booted Eagle and Pallid Harrier. Our main targets here will be the endemic Sri Lanka Swallow (split from Redrumped) and the endemic Sri Lanka Woodshrike (split from Common), as well as the impressive Malabar Pied Hornbill and Jerdon s Bushlark, both of which also occur in Peninsular India. Additional species of particular interest include Spot-billed Pelican, Painted Stork, Lesser Adjutant and Sirkeer Malkoha. Other species regularly seen here include Oriental Darter, Woolly-necked Stork, Barred Buttonquail, Marsh, Green and Wood Sandpipers, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Pied (or Jacobin) and Grey-bellied Cuckoos, Green Bee-eater, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark, Black-headed Cuckoo-Shrike, Yellow-eyed Babbler, White-rumped Shama, Zitting Cisticola, Plain and Jungle Prinias, Baya Weaver, Indian Silverbill, and Scaly-breasted and Blackheaded Munias. If we are reasonably fortunate we will find Blyth s Pipit and Thickbilled Flowerpecker. Day 16 After spending the early morning at Uda Walawe we will drive to Tissamaharama for an overnight stay. Bundala National Park, situated not far from Tissamaharama, is perhaps the most important wetland in Sri Lanka for both resident and migrant waterbirds. The area lies close to the Indian Ocean, cut off from the sea by a wide beach and fringing dunes. As well as several lagoons and saltpans, there are large dry, open areas around the lagoons and extensive areas of scrub. Around Tissa itself are several ancient tanks (reservoirs) that also hold numerous waterbirds. The most interesting birds here are Indian Cormorant, Small Pratincole, Indian Thick-knee (split from Eurasian), Great Thick-knee, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Brown-headed Gull, the impressive Brown Fish Owl, Indian Nightjar, the stunning White-naped Flameback and Indian Reed Warbler (split from Clamorous). More widespread species we may well find include Little Grebe, Yellow Bittern (and with a little luck the shy Black Bittern), Purple Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Asian Openbill, Eurasian Spoonbill, Black-headed Ibis, Lesser Whistling Duck, Watercock, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Kentish, Lesser Sand and Pacific Golden Plovers, Little Stint, Curlew and Common Sandpipers, Pintail Snipe, Black-tailed Godwit, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Ruddy Turnstone, Gull-billed, Caspian, Greater Crested, Lesser Crested, Common, Little, Whiskered and Whitewinged Terns, Pied Kingfisher and Oriental Skylark. We could also see a scarce winter visitor to the area, such as Red-necked Phalarope or Black-capped Kingfisher. The lagoons at Bundala also hold a population of Muggers (or Marsh Crocodiles). Day 17 After some final birding in the Tissa area we will leave for the highlands, where we will stop at Surrey Estate where a block of former tea land has been allowed to grow wild over several decades and now supports some interesting birds, including the endemic Sri Lanka Woodpigeon and the widespread Brown Wood Owl. Towards evening we will climb up the steep eastern slope from the rolling hills of the Uva Plateau to Nuwara Eliya, where we stay for the next two nights. This onceproud hill-station of the British Raj, which is situated at nearly 2000m and which used to provide a cool retreat for the British governors of the island, has now fallen on hard times and is only a shadow of its former self. Day 18 During our time at Nuwara Eliya we will visit Victoria Park and Galwaysland National Park, both of which are good places for birds, and also Horton Plains National Park, an area of upland grassland and dense, cloud-wreathed montane forest where the stunted trees are hung with lichen and epiphytes. Clear days are none too common in this area, but if we are lucky at Horton Plains we will enjoy distant views of Adam s Peak. Sri Lanka s second and third highest peaks, Kirigalpota and Totupola, protrude from the plains and the beauty of the area is further enhanced by the pinks, orange and browns of the new forest growth. Species of particular interest include no fewer than eight endemics: Crimsonbacked Flameback (split from Greater), Yellow-eared Bulbul, Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush, Sri Lanka Scaly Thrush (split from Scaly), the skulking Sri Lanka Bush Warbler, Dullblue Flycatcher, Sri Lanka White-eye and Black-throated Munia (split from the Rufousbellied Munia of south India). Nuwara Eliya is the only easily accessible site for the whistling thrush and we shall make a special effort to see

6 6 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Southern India & Sri Lanka this difficult-to-see and largely crepuscular bird, although we may have to wait around a long time for even a brief view. We should also find the gorgeous Indian Pitta, the lovely Indian Blue Robin, the smart Pied Thrush and the pretty Kashmir Flycatcher, four superb migrants from the northern part of the Indian subcontinent. With a bit of luck we will also see Indian Blackbird (split from Common). Day 19 After a final morning around Nuwara Eliya we will head for the ancient Sri Lankan capital of Kandy, heartland of Sinhalese culture, for an overnight stay, crossing the Ramboda Pass en route and then descending through extensive tea plantations. In the evening we will visit the famous Temple of the Tooth, which preserves a tooth taken from the ashes of the Buddha s funeral pyre. Day 20 This morning we will have a final chance to see forest birds at Udawattekelle Sanctuary close to Kandy. This is a particularly good area for seeing the endemic Crimsonbacked Flameback, should we have missed it earlier, and we may also come across Blackbacked Dwarf Kingfisher, a real jewel of a bird. Later we will transfer to Colombo airport, near Negombo, where the tour ends in the late afternoon. Andaman Islands Pre-Tour Extension Itinerary Day 1 The extension begins this morning at Chennai, from Sri Lanka Blue Magpie (Nik Borrow) where we will take a flight to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands for a five nights stay. Following our arrival, we will begin our exploration of South Andaman. Days 2-5 The Andamans consist of several hundred islands and a range of hills, rising to 800m, forms a spine along the main chain of the archipelago. Two monsoons a year ensure a high rainfall which, together with the tropical climate, creates ideal conditions for the development of rainforest. Indeed, much of the land surface of the Andamans is still covered in pristine forest and we will be concentrating on this rich habitat during our stay in these rarely visited islands. For part of the time we will also search for waders and other coastal species in the areas of mangroves and marshes, or along the idyllic, palm-fringed, sandy beaches. The birdlife is, as one would expect from the position of the islands, a mixture of Indian and South-East Asian forms, but the long period of isolation has also resulted in a high degree of endemism. A number of the endemics are fairly straightforward to find, and these include Andaman Serpent Eagle, Andaman Cuckoo-Dove, Andaman Green Pigeon, Andaman Coucal, Andaman Hawk-Owl, Hume s Hawk-Owl (split from Brown), Walden s Scops Owl (split from Oriental), Andaman Woodpecker (formerly lumped in White-bellied), Andaman Cuckooshrike (split from Barbellied), Andaman Bulbul (split from Black-headed), Andaman Shama (split from White-rumped), Andaman Flowerpecker (split from Plain), Andaman Drongo, Whiteheaded Starling and Andaman Treepie. We should also find several of the more elusive endemics, which include Andaman Teal, Andaman Crake, Andaman Wood Pigeon, Andaman Barn Owl, Andaman Scops Owl and Andaman Nightjar (split from Large-tailed). Amongst the many other species we will be looking for on South Andaman are Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns, Striated (or Little) Heron, Pacific Reef Egret, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Watercock, Pacific Golden Plover, Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers, Imperial Pigeon, Red Turtle Dove, Alexandrine, Red-breasted and Long-tailed Parakeets, Violet Cuckoo, Edible-nest and White-bellied Swiftlets, Brown Needletail, Collared Kingfisher, Spotbreasted Woodpecker (split from Fulvous-breasted), Black-naped Oriole, the distinctive andamanensis race of the Scarlet Minivet, Thickbilled, Oriental Reed, Pallas s Grasshopper, Dusky and Yellow-browed Warblers, and Olive-backed Sunbird. With luck we will also come across Ruddy-breasted Crake, Slatybreasted Rail or Mangrove Whistler. Day 6 After a last morning in the Andamans we will catch an afternoon flight back to Chennai for an overnight stay. Day 7 This morning we fly to Mysore to join those arriving for the main tour. (This is Day 1 of the main tour.) Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are of good standard almost throughout. Blue Magpie Lodge at Sinharaja is simple and electricity is limited to night-time. Road transport is by small coach. Roads are variable in quality (averaging good to mediocre). Walking: The walking effort is mostly easy, but there are some moderate grade walks. Climate: Generally warm or hot, dry and sunny at lower altitudes but cool or rarely even quite cold at higher altitudes. Overcast weather or early morning mist is not uncommon and some rain is possible at this season. It will be rather humid in coastal areas. Bird/Mammal Photography: Opportunities are worthwhile. Part-Tour Option: Subject to space being available, it is possible to take the Andaman Islands and Southern India section only, or just the Andaman Islands or Sri Lanka sections. Please contact us for further information. Andaman Hawk-Owl (Craig Robson)

South India - The Western Ghats A week trip in late March 2007 with The Bird ID Company

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