MICRONESIA TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 MICRONESIA 26 NOVEMBER 16 DECEMBER 2008 TOUR REPORT LEADERS: DEREK SCOTT Like the Birdquest Expedition before it, the first Birdquest Tour to Micronesia was a great success. With only 104 bird species recorded in total (and 11 of these introduced), this was certainly not a tour for quantity, but the quality was exceptional, with no less than 47 (over 50% of the indigenous species) being endemic to Micronesia and most of these to only one island group. The only surviving endemics that we failed to find were Guam Rail and Pohnpei Mountain Starling. The Guam Rail is now extinct on its native island of Guam but breeds well in captivity and has been released on Rota, although the introduction programme does not appear to be going well. A specimen of the Pohnpei Mountain Starling was obtained in 1995, but there have been no confirmed records since then, and the species must be on the verge of extinction, if not already extinct. Sadly, many of the other endemic species are under threat from the continuing destruction of their native vegetation and introduction of exotic species. Almost 40% of the endemics that we recorded are listed by BirdLife International in the categories Critically Endangered (2), Endangered (5), Vulnerable (3) and Near Threatened (8). Highlights of our island-hopping journey included the very obliging Nightingale Reed Warbler that we eventually found on Saipan, the pair of Tinian Monarchs within minutes of our arrival on Tinian, the thrill at finding our first Mariana Crow on Rota, the Long-billed White-eyes that we all managed to see on Pohnpei, the Great Truk White-eyes that just a few us got to see near the summit of Tol South, the family party of Truk Monarchs that we finally tracked down on another island in Truk Lagoon, our wonderful views of a male White-headed Ground-Dove and eventual success with the Olive White-eyes on Yap, and our close encounters with Palau Megapodes, Palau Ground-Doves and Giant White-eyes in the Rock Islands of Palau. Reaching the western Pacific from various points on the globe, the group finally came together at the airport in Guam, where we boarded an early morning flight to the island of Saipan in the Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas. Pausing only briefly to drop off our bags at our hotel in Garapan, we began our exploration of the northern half of the island, where most of the remaining forest can be found. The birding was excellent, and we had barely commenced our explorations before seeing our first Guam Swiftlets and the ludicrously easy White-throated Ground-Doves that, unlike other Gallicolumba, habitually fly high over the woodland and perch in tree-tops. Whiteheaded Kingfishers, Micronesian Starlings, Micronesian Honeyeaters and Saipan Bridled White-eyes 1 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

2 were common and conspicuous, and we had soon found our first Mariana Fruit-Doves, Rufous Fantails and lovely Golden White-eyes. Other new birds included graceful White-tailed and Redtailed Tropicbirds, Yellow Bittern, the ubiquitous Pacific Golden Plover and the lovely Common Fairy Tern, as well as the inevitable crop of introduced species: Philippine Turtle-Dove, Eurasian Tree Sparrow and Orange-cheeked Waxbill on this island. Later, we visited the rugged north-east coast and, from an excellent viewpoint, looked across at tiny Bird Island, where there were lots of Brown Noddies, a dark morph Pacific Reef Egret and a Common Sandpiper. We also spent a few moments in quiet reflection at Suicide Cliff and Banzai Cliff, where many Japanese soldiers and civilians had jumped to their deaths rather than face capture by the Americans. We ended the day in a patch of forest where Mariana Megapodes are known to occur. Sure enough there was a megapode, but this was seen by only one of us, and as the light began to fade, we decided it was time to head back for something to eat and a good night s rest. Early next morning, we returned to the north end of the island and made a concerted effort to find the megapode, but the only large birds that we could find were noisy feral chickens. However, in an area of tangan-tangan woodland nearby, we finally caught up with a Nightingale Reed Warbler which sang back enthusiastically in response to playback and gave great views. Then it was time to head back for breakfast and out to the airport for our flight to Tinian. On the way, we called in at small lake where there were three Tufted Ducks and a Whiskered Tern two scarce winter visitors to the Northern Marianas. Our shuttle flights to Tinian in two small aircraft were great fun and gave us spectacular views of this island and the overgrown runways of North Field. Even before the last of us had landed on Tinian, one of the first arrivals had located a pair of Tinian Monarchs in the scrubby woodland near the airport. Within minutes, we had all seen these very obliging birds, and then we had the rest of the afternoon to explore the island in our rental vehicles. White-throated Ground- Doves, Mariana Fruit-Doves, White-headed Kingfishers and Saipan Bridled White-eyes were common, and at the first decent patch of woodland that we came to, we found another pair of monarchs. As we drove north along Broadway, a flock of about 30 Eastern Cattle Egrets added another species to our list. Eventually we reached the long-abandoned North Field, where we gazed down into the old atomic bomb pits and drove along Runway Able from which Enola Gay had taken off with its lethal cargo in August We had a quick look at Chulu Beach the tiny beach where the American Marines had landed in July 1944 and then, as we were driving back to the airport, a Chinese Goshawk flew by in pursuit of two Philippine Turtle-Doves an unexpected bonus, as this is a very scarce winter visitor to the Marianas. The shuttle back to Saipan went smoothly, and we were back in Garapan in time for an entertaining dinner at Wild Bill s. After another fruitless search for megapodes early the next morning, we left Saipan and flew south to the island of Rota, also part of the Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas. There were five Swinhoe s Snipe on the lawn outside the airport, and as we drove the few miles to our pleasant hotel, we saw our first Rota Kingfishers and introduced Black Drongos on the wires. However, our afternoon was quite a disappointment, as we failed to find any of our three target birds. We had no luck with the Bridled White-eye on our first foray into the highlands, saw no Mariana Crows at Poña Point, reputedly one of the best observation points for this rare species, and drew a blank with Guam Rail at the main release site near the Apanon Japanese Cemetery. The only birds of note were a few White-throated Ground-Doves and Mariana Fruit-Doves, and even Micronesian Honeyeaters were scarce. Early the next morning, we were back in position near the Apanon Japanese Cemetery, but no rails appeared, so we decided to return to Poña Point for another try for the crow. Again our wait was in vain, and as the morning wore on, it became clear that we would have to try something different. The obvious plan was to split up into smaller groups and check several suitable patches of forest 2 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

3 simultaneously. This turned out to be a good plan, as within less than an hour, one of the groups had heard the distinctive call of a crow in a patch of tall trees by the road. Fortunately, the bird stayed around until everyone managed to get see it. This was a great boost to morale, and after a cheerful lunch back at the hotel, we headed up onto Mount Sabana with high hopes of finding the white-eye. This time we were accompanied by a local naturalist who took us to some excellent native forest on his property. Within moments of arriving, we had found our first Rota Bridled White-eyes, and in the space of an hour must have seen about 20. Obviously this is a species that can only survive in native forest, unlike many of the other white-eyes that are equally at home in agricultural forest dominated by introduced species. Later that afternoon, we returned to the patch of forest where we had seen the Mariana Crow, and this time the bird very obligingly perched out in the open enabling us to get great scope views. We ended the day as we had begun, waiting for a Guam Rail to appear near the cemetery, but none showed, and it was now becoming clear that there must be very few if any surviving in this area. The local naturalist had told us that the introduction programme was not going well because of high levels of predation from rats, cats and dogs, and that none had been seen at the main release site for about three months. We made one last futile attempt for the Guam Rail early the next morning, and then after breakfast back at the hotel, decided to explore the eastern end of the island. After a quick photo-stop at the Latte Stone Quarry, we proceeded to the Bird Sanctuary at Saguagahga Point where, from an excellent vantage point, we could look out over a large colony of Red-footed Boobies and watch Brown Boobies and Red-tailed Tropicbirds cruising by. A short vigil from a picnic area near Alaguan Bay produced good flight views of no less than five Mariana Crows, and at a group of small ponds on the north coast, we found a Great Egret a very rare vagrant to Micronesia. Later that afternoon we returned to the airport, where there were now at least eight Swinhoe s Snipe on the lawn, along with three Ruddy Turnstones. Our evening flight to Guam left a few minutes early (as indeed did most of our flights in Micronesia), and we arrived in time for a late supper. Next morning we were up early for the long flight to the isolated island of Pohnpei, one of the Federated States of Micronesia in the eastern Caroline Islands. The flight was made even longer by our stop en route at Truk, and with the one-hour time change, it was not until early afternoon that we eventually arrived at the beautiful island of Pohnpei. It was only a short drive to our pleasant if rather rustic hotel, and after a quick lunch we began our birding. Our first of many Purple-capped Fruit- Doves, colourful Pohnpei Lorikeets and bat-like Caroline Islands Swiftlets were visible from the hotel veranda, and in the surrounding woodland we saw our first rather uninspiring Grey White-eyes. A short excursion to Takaieu Island later that afternoon produced good views of several Pohnpei Flycatchers and Pohnpei Fantails, a brief look at a Caroline Islands Reed Warbler, and the first of many Caroline Flying Foxes. Two of Pohnpei s endemic birds, the Pohnpei Cicadabird and the Long-billed White-eye, are most easily found in native forest in the island s rugged interior, and so the next morning, accompanied by several local guides, we set off up the mountain. There was little trail to speak of, and as we began our ascent of a very steep and slippery slope to the first ridge, it soon became clear that some of us were not going to be able to reach the good forest beyond. It was quite a scramble, but in the end, five of us got high enough to find the Long-billed White-eye, which turned out to be quite common, and the two who continued on for another hour or so found four Pohnpei Cicadabirds first a male and then a group of three females/juveniles. Other birds recorded this morning included four fancy Pohnpei Kingfishers, several Caroline Islands Reed Warblers, two little groups of Caroline Islands White-eyes and large numbers of Grey White-eyes. The descent was much easier, and we were back at the hotel in time for lunch and a short siesta. Later, we returned to the airport where three of us had seen a little flock of Hunstein s Mannikins the previous day. The mannikins were still there and, 3 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

4 although an introduced species, were much appreciated, as not many of us had ever visited their native home in New Ireland, Papua New Guinea. We still had time for a bit of exploration, and taking a side road up into the interior of the island, we came to a nice patch of native forest where, much to our delight, we found several obliging Long-billed White-eyes a very welcome catch-up for those of us who had missed the birds on the mountain. Three more Pohnpei Kingfishers as we were leaving this area rounded off the day nicely. Early the next morning, we returned to the same accessible patch of native forest in the hope of finding more cicadabirds, but it soon began to rain heavily, and although we persevered for a while, we saw little of note other than another Pohnpei Kingfisher. In view of the inclement weather, we decided to spend the rest of the morning visiting the ancient ruins of Nan Madol on the south-east coast. These ruins, which consist of 82 artificial islands built of huge basalt logs, are all that remains of a lost Pacific civilization which is believed to have flourished in the 11 th century AD. A local chief was happy to arrange a small boat for us, and this enabled us to land on Nan Dowas, one of the largest of the artificial islands and the one with the most impressive ruins. Despite the heavy rain showers, this cultural interlude was much enjoyed, and we even managed to see a few birds, including two odd-looking intermediate morph Pacific Reef Herons, our first Great Crested and Black-naped Terns, a few Black Noddies and a vagrant Striated Heron. The rain showers cleared away around mid-day, and in the afternoon, we returned to Takaieu Island in the hope of finding a Caroline Islands Ground-Dove. The ground-dove eluded us, but we had our best views yet of Caroline Islands Reed Warbler, and also found three Siberian (Grey-tailed) Tattlers, a little flock of whimbrels including at least one Hudsonian Whimbrel, and three more Hunstein s Mannikins. On our last morning in Pohnpei, we tried again at dawn for the Caroline Islands Ground-Dove but without success, and after breakfast, returned to the forest in the interior, where we found a couple of Caroline Islands White-eyes and no less than 15 Hunstein s Manikins. Our flight to Moen (or Weno, as it is now often known) in Truk (or Chuuk) that afternoon was again a few minutes early, and we arrived at our lovely resort hotel at the southern end of the island in time for some initial exploration. This proved to be highly successful, as we found our first pair of Oceanic Flycatchers in the grounds of the hotel and four Caroline Islands Ground-Doves in the gardens nearby, along with our first Rufous Night-Heron, several Purple-capped Fruit-Doves, large numbers of Caroline Islands Swiftlets and four Caroline Islands Reed Warblers. Next day, shortly after dawn, we boarded our boat for distant Tol South in the west of the lagoon, where another serious climb awaited us. On arrival at the island, we soon found several willing helpers eager to guide us up to the summit for a modest fee, and those of us who had not been deterred by the steep ascent, set off in high spirits. The hike up the mountain turned out to be just as tough as we had been led to believe, with steep and very slippery trails and the occasional rock outcrop that had to be negotiated with great caution. A fast group of two plus a guide pressed ahead to the tall forest on the summit ridge, where they had no difficulty in locating several noisy flocks of Great Truk White-eyes, and also found a juvenile Truk Monarch. A slower group, which soon dwindled to two plus a guide, struggled on up as far as the first patch of native forest and here, after a long wait, was rewarded with good views of a small flock of the white-eyes. Other birds encountered on the climb included three Caroline Islands Ground-Doves, lots of Oceanic Flycatchers, Caroline Islands Reed Warblers and Caroline Islands White-eyes, and a couple of Blue-faced Parrotfinches. Two Micronesian Pigeons (of the endangered Truk form) were heard calling in the forest near the summit, but remained invisible in the canopy. We regrouped for lunch on a huge rock with fabulous panoramic views over Truk Lagoon, and then, after tasting the delights of freshly harvested coconuts, picked our way cautiously back down to the shore where we rejoined our colleagues. Sadly, they had not been able to wander far, as they had been told that there were some bad people living in 4 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

5 the neighbouring village, and even the locals were afraid to go there! The journey back to Moen was quite an experience, as we ploughed into choppy seas and a stiff breeze. Most of us were totally drenched, and by the time we arrived back at our hotel, we were ready to call it a day. After such an ordeal on the way back from Tol South, there were rather few takers for the return trip to Tol South the next morning. Our main objective was the rare and endangered Tol Monarch, which only two of us had seen the previous day. There was, however, a minor problem. To get to the site where the Birdquest Expedition had found a nest in 2005, we would have to pass through the village with the bad people, and none of the local guides was willing to accompany us. The problem was resolved when it emerged that we could take our boat to another village, beyond the no-go area, where the natives were friendly. This also had the advantage of cutting out a long walk and saving time. But all came to nought in the end. We tramped about for several hours in the designated area without so much as a glimpse of a monarch. The only excitement came when a lone Great Truk White-eye was spotted, enabling one of us who had missed it the previous day to catch up. In our desperation to find a monarch, we even took a boat ride deep into the mangrove forest, but found nothing there and reluctantly had to admit defeat. Our only consolation was that the boat journey back to Moen was relatively dry. Later that afternoon, we commandeered a rickety old bus from the hotel for a visit to Nefo Caves and an old Japanese gun emplacement. Purple-capped Fruit-Doves and Oceanic Flycatchers showed well at the caves, and in the marsh below, we picked out two Intermediate Egrets, three Rufous Night-Herons, six Grey (Pacific Black) Ducks, five Northern Pintails and a couple of Common Moorhens. With the Truk Monarch still eluding most of us, we decided to spend our last morning in Truk trying another island in the lagoon. We chose Dublon, one of the closest to Moen and only 15 minutes away. This was altogether a cleaner and tidier island than Tol South, with friendly locals, excellent tracks and some quite good forest within easy reach. We soon found a little party of Caroline Islands White-eyes, as well as the (by now) usual Oceanic Flycatchers and Caroline Islands Reed Warblers, and not long after, to our great delight (and relief!), a group of three Truk Monarchs a very fancy male, a sombre female and a rufous juvenile. The monarchs played hide and seek with us for a while, but eventually settled down to forage in the undergrowth and gave us all great views. We were back at our hotel before 9:00, and had the rest of the morning to relax and prepare for the next leg of our journey to Yap in the western Caroline Islands. The flight from Truk to Yap included another short transit stop in Guam, and it was not until late evening that we finally arrived at our hotel. Early the next morning, we headed straight for the forested interior of the island and began our quest for the endemics. Within minutes we had seen our first Plain White-eyes (an abundant bird) and Yap Monarchs (pleasingly common, after the trouble we had had with the Truk Monarch). Three Micronesian Pigeons obligingly flew low over the forest, and a female Yap Cicadabird responded well to pishing. A little further on, we found another female Yap Cicadabird by the roadside. Our main target now was the endemic Olive White-eye, so we proceeded to an area that is said to be good for this scarce and unobtrusive bird. Unfortunately, the trail on slippery rocks soon became quite treacherous, and only a few of us managed to get far enough into the forest to see a little group of these interesting white-eyes. However, one of those who had remained behind had good views of a White-headed Ground-Dove. Other additions to our list this morning included a Eurasian Whimbrel, a Grey (Black-bellied) Plover a rare visitor to these islands and a few introduced Nutmeg Mannikins. In the afternoon, we tried another area of forest in the north of the main island, and here we had extraordinary views of a very confiding White-browed Crake, fly-by views of another Micronesian Pigeon, and good views (for some) of six more Olive White-eyes, while a White-headed Ground-Dove called close by. Five huge Yap Flying Foxes appeared over the forest and added mammalian interest. 5 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

6 We returned to the same area early the next morning, and this time, several Olive White-eyes performed well for us all. A Polynesian Rat was watched as it foraged quite high up in a tree, and a White-headed Ground-Dove was glimpsed as it flew up from the forest floor. Later, we drove up to the north end of Maap Island, but there was little of interest except some of the local stone money propped up outside the houses in a small a village. These huge stone discs, up to two metres in diameter and with a central hole, were once used as actual currency and even today have important symbolic value. We rounded off the morning with another visit to the area where we had first seen a White-headed Ground-Dove, and were rewarded with great views of a male walking along the track towards us. Having seen all the endemics, we spent the afternoon visiting a reservoir and several small ponds near the airport, where we found an Intermediate Egret, a Tufted Duck and a Whiskered Tern. Ten Barn Swallows added another species to our list, and in a little patch of woodland, we had our last looks at a pair of Yap Monarchs and a pair of Olive White-eyes. Well pleased with our very successful two days on Yap, we returned to the airport later that evening for the short flight to our final destination, the Republic of Palau. We spent our first full day in Palau exploring the main island of Babeldaob (Babelthaup). The birding was excellent, and a serious of stops by the roadside produced a succession of new birds, including our first of many Palau Swiftlets, Collared Kingfishers, Mangrove Flycatchers, Palau Fantails, Palau Bush Warblers and Dusky White-eyes, five Rusty-capped Kingfishers, at least eight Palau Cicadabirds, and a very obliging Morningbird. We also had great flight views of a Nicobar Pigeon and three more Micronesian Pigeons. The only bird that gave us a problem was the Palau Fruit-Dove. We heard many calling and saw several whizzing by, but none was seen well. A short detour took us to the coast near the capitol, Melekeok, but there was little here other than a few Little Pied Cormorants and our first introduced Chestnut Mannikins. We stopped briefly to gaze in wonderment at the grandiose capitol buildings, and then visited another beach a little farther north, where we found a few Banded Rails by the roadside. Well satisfied with the morning s work, we turned round and headed back to Koror for lunch. Later that afternoon, we drove out to an area of forest near the airport on Babeldaob for our first try for the Palau Owl. We arrived long before sunset and found several birds of interest including two more Nicobar Pigeons, another Micronesian Pigeon, another Morningbird and an Eastern Yellow Wagtail. Palau Fruit-Doves were common, and at last we obtained some decent views. As the light began to fade, huge Palau Flying Foxes appeared over the forest, and at dusk, two Palau Owls started to call and a Jungle Nightjar flew over the track. As the owls were some way off, we moved to another area where there were at least three owls calling. One of these came close and was seen briefly by one of us, but then disappeared back into the forest. By now it was pitch dark, and as the owls fell silent, we decided to call it a day. The next day, we took to the water and explored Palau s beautiful Rock Islands, a series of weirdly eroded limestone islets that are scattered across the coral reefs to the south and west of Koror. As we sped south-west towards the small island of Ulong, we encountered our first Bridled Terns, along with good numbers of Great Crested Terns, Black-naped Terns and Black Noddies. A walk in the strand forest on Ulong was highly successful, turning up four Palau Megapodes and at least three Palau Ground-Doves, along with several more Morningbirds. A flock of 15 introduced Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoos squawked noisily overhead, and a pair of introduced Eclectus Parrots came up out of the forest. On nearby Neco Island, we found two more Palau Megapodes and another group of cockatoos. We called in at Macharchar Island to visit Jellyfish Lake, but only one of us had brought snorkelling gear and was bold enough to swim out to see the famous land-locked jellyfish. After a very pleasant picnic lunch on yet another small island, we headed back to the largest rock island, Urukthapel, to look for the Giant White-eye. As we worked our way up through excellent forest past a Japanese gun towards an old German lighthouse, we found a good selection of Palau s 6 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

7 endemic birds including a Rusty-capped Kingfisher and more Morningbirds, but the Giant White-eyes were not being at all co-operative. Five birds were seen briefly, but these soon moved off, and neither playback nor pishing could bring them back. Using the excuse that it was mid-afternoon and a poor time of day for such things, we headed off back to Koror. A quick look at the rubbish tip near the jetty produced our first Little Egrets and a Common Greenshank, along with an Intermediate Egret, 100 Eastern Cattle Egrets and 40 Rufous Night-Herons, but another excursion to Babeldaob that evening failed to give us any views of the Palau Owl, although we heard at least three. We were down at the dock early the next morning for another day in the Rock Islands. Things got off to an excellent start with the discovery of a Tropical Shearwater (a split from Audubon s) huddled up in a corner on one of the boats. This was presumably a bird that had been disoriented by the harbour lights and crash-landed during the night. The bird was duly caught, photographed and released at sea en route to Urukthapel, where we were to make our first landing of the day. As we tied up at the small jetty on Urukthapel, we spotted a White-breasted Woodswallow (two more were found later), and we had not gone far up the trail before we found our first Giant White-eyes. This time the birds behaved reasonably well, and we all had decent views, but they were certainly not noisy and demonstrative, as Pratt et al. imply. Leaving Urukthapel behind, we continued on south to Peleliu, a large, low-lying island in the south of the archipelago and scene of some very fierce fighting during the Second World War. As we approached the island, a school of about 40 Spinner Dolphins played alongside for a while, and came as a welcome addition to our meagre mammal list. We then experienced one of the very few hiccups of the entire trip. We landed at South Dock, near the south end of the island, only to discover that our transport had been sent to meet us at North Dock, at the other end of the island! This meant half an hour s wait, but the time was not wasted as we found a Palau Cicadabird and a couple of Giant White-eyes within yards of the dock. Once on board our bus, we spent some time exploring the island on a elaborate network of roads and found most of the commoner endemics, a few Banded Rails, a Swinhoe s Snipe and about 20 Caroline Islands Whiteeyes. Giant White-eyes were decidedly common we must have seen about 20 in all and now, at last, in the hard to miss category. We also had brief views of another Palau Ground-Dove. We paused briefly at Bloody Nose Ridge to ponder over the horrors of war and passed by a couple of rusty old tanks, but we gave the many war memorials a miss, preferring to enjoy this beautiful island as it now is, rather than dwell too long on its turbulent history. We finally arrived at North Dock in time for lunch, and after a quick look at the Little Pied Cormorants, Pacific Reef Herons and assorted waders on the reef flats, set off back to Koror. It was our final evening in Palau and we had no option but to try one more time for the owl. This time we visited a much larger patch of forest near the centre of Babeldaob. Again, we had no difficulty in locating owls (we heard at least four), but although one came very close, it remained out of sight in dense foliage and quickly lost interest in us. Reluctantly admitting defeat, we headed back to Koror for dinner and a few hours rest. Our flight back to Guam was leaving at 2:30 in the morning, and we all had long journeys home. And so our Micronesian journey came to an end. It had been a great trip, remarkably trouble free, given the number of islands visited and complicated logistics, and, between us, we had missed nothing except Guam Rails of uncertain provenance and the probably extinct Pohnpei Mountain Starling. 7 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

8 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PROCELLARIIDAE Tropical Shearwater Puffinus bailloni: Close encounters with a bird that had crash landed on a boat in Koror harbour in Palau. We released it at sea on the way out to the Rock Islands. PHAETHONTIDAE White-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon lepturus: Widespread in small numbers and seen well on many occasions, even in the forest. Recorded on Saipan, Rota, Pohnpei, Truk and Palau. Red-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda: Good views of about ten on Saipan on our first day, and superb views of four along the cliffs at the Bird Sanctuary on Rota. SULIDAE Brown Booby Sula leucogaster: At least ten flying around the Bird Sanctuary on Rota, and one on the boat journey to Tol South in Truk Lagoon. Red-footed Booby Sula sula: About 150 at the breeding colony in the Bird Sanctuary on Rota. The great majority were of the white phase. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos: A few on Babeldaob, one at Jellyfish Lake in the Rock Islands and at least 12 on Peleliu in Palau. ARDEIDAE Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis: Widespread and generally fairly common, occurring in a variety of habitats. Recorded on Saipan, Tinian, Rota, Guam, Truk, Yap and Palau, but not on Pohnpei. Great Egret (Great White Egret) Egretta alba: One at the water treatment lagoons at Rota Resort and Country Club a rare vagrant in Micronesia, not listed for the region by Pratt et al. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia: A couple at the marsh on Moen (Truk), one at the old airport on Yap, and several in Palau. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Only recorded in Palau, where there were three at the rubbish tip on Koror and one at the ponds on Peleliu. Pacific Reef Heron (Pacific Reef Egret) Egretta sacra: Widespread, but rather scarce; recorded on Saipan, Rota, Pohnpei, Truk, Yap and Palau. The white phase seemed to be as common as the dark phase, and there were several intriguing piebald individuals, particularly on Pohnpei. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Patchily distributed, but locally fairly common. Recorded on Tinian, Rota, Yap and Palau, where there was a concentration of about 100 at the rubbish tip on Koror. Striated Heron (Green-backed Heron) Butorides striatus (NL): One seen by Phil in the mangroves at Nan Madol in Pohnpei. This is a very rare straggler to Micronesia from eastern Asia. Rufous Night-Heron Nycticorax caledonicus: A few in Truk, where our first was an immature in the grounds of the Blue Lagoon Resort, and common in Palau, where there were about 40 at the rubbish tip on Koror. ANATIDAE Grey Duck (Pacific Black Duck) Anas superciliosa: Distant scope views of six in the marsh on Moen (Truk). 8 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

9 Northern Pintail Anas acuta: Scope views of five in the marsh on Moen. This and the next species are uncommon winter visitors to Micronesia. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula: Three at Lake Susupe on Saipan, one at the marsh on Moen, and one on a pond near the old airport on Yap. ACCIPITRIDAE Chinese Goshawk Accipiter soloensis: Brief views of an immature chasing a couple of Philippine Turtle-Doves on Tinian. This is a rare but probably regular winter visitor to western Micronesia. MEGAPODIIDAE Mariana Megapode (Mariana Scrubfowl) Megapodius laperouse (NL): One flushed by Phil in the forest at the north end of Saipan on our first afternoon out. Several subsequent visits to this area drew a blank. Endemic to the Northern Marianas. This species (including the Palau form senex) is listed as Endangered in BirdLife International s Threatened Birds of the World. Palau Megapode (Palau Scrubfowl) Megapodius senex: Good views of at least four in the strand forest on Ulong and two more on nearby Neco in the Rock Islands of Palau. This form, which is confined to Palau, is usually considered to be conspecific with the Mariana Megapode under the name Micronesian Megapode M. laperouse. PHASIANIDAE Red Junglefowl (Feral Chicken) Gallus gallus: The domestic chicken was introduced by the original colonizers of Micronesia many centuries ago, and now occurs in a feral state on many of the islands. We recorded small numbers of apparently wild birds on Saipan and Rota, and lots on Urukthapel and Peleliu in Palau, but here and elsewhere, it was not always easy to determine which were wild chickens and which had just wandered away from home. RALLIDAE Banded Rail (Buff-banded Rail) Rallus philippensis: About eight seen well by the roadside during our drives around Babeldaob, and at least four on Peleliu. White-browed Crake Porzana cinerea: Extraordinary views of a very confiding bird foraging in the open along a wide track in the forest on Yap. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: A couple at the marsh on Moen (Truk) and a couple at one of the ponds near the old airport on Yap. CHARADRIIDAE Grey Plover (Black-bellied Plover) Pluvialis squatarola: A single bird seen on two days running on the north-west coast of Yap. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Common and widespread; recorded in all island groups and on every day of the tour. The highest single-day counts were 25 on Saipan and 26 on Yap. SCOLOPACIDAE Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: One at the rubbish tip on Koror and at least five on the tidal flats at the north end of Peleliu. Siberian Tattler (Grey-tailed Tattler) Heteroscelus brevipes: Tattlers were recorded in small numbers on Saipan, Pohnpei, Truk, Yap and Palau, and all those identified with certainty were Siberian, although Wandering Tattler is also a possibility, especially in the east. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: A single bird on Saipan, and small numbers in Yap and Palau. 9 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

10 Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: Small numbers recorded in Yap and Palau. Hudsonian Whimbrel Numenius hudsonicus: A group of eight whimbrels at a high-tide roost in the mangroves on Pohnpei included at least one hudsonicus with a completely dark rump. The identity of the other birds was never ascertained. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: Fairly common and widespread, and often encountered at some distance from the coast on airfields, playing fields and other areas with short grass. We found a couple on Tinian, three on Rota, and small numbers on Pohnpei, Truk, Yap and Palau. Our highest count was 20 on Moen (Truk). Swinhoe s Snipe Gallinago megala: Superb views of up to eight at Rota airport when we arrived and again when we were leaving, and one flushed from the roadside on Peleliu (Palau). LARIDAE Great Crested Tern (Swift Tern) Sterna bergii: A couple at Nan Madol on Pohnpei, and small numbers in Truk Lagoon and amongst the Rock Islands in Palau. Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana: Fairly common around Pohnpei and in Truk Lagoon, and common amongst the Rock Islands in Palau. Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus: Small numbers recorded during both our boat trips amongst the Rock Islands in Palau. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida: One at Lake Susupe on Saipan, and one at a pond near the old airport on Yap. This would appear to be a regular winter visitor in very small numbers to Micronesia, contra Pratt et al. who mention only a single record (from Yap). The Birdquest Expedition of 2005 found a total of 16 individuals! Brown Noddy Anous stolidus: Fairly common and widespread, and recorded from all major islands except Tinian and Guam. Black Noddy Anous minutus: First encountered in Saipan, where we found a feeding flock of about 150 off the north-west coast, then small numbers at Pohnpei, some tens in Truk Lagoon, a few in Yap, and large numbers amongst the Rock Islands in Palau. Common Fairy Tern (Common White Tern) Gygis alba: Common and widespread, occurring on all major islands and groups and recorded on every day of the tour. Our maximum count was 100 in a day on Saipan. COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove Columba livia: Feral pigeons were recorded in small numbers on Saipan, Tinian, Rota and Guam. Philippine Turtle-Dove (Island Collared-Dove) Streptopelia bitorquata: Another introduced species, very common on Saipan, Tinian and Rota, and also seen near the airport on Guam. Nicobar Pigeon Caloenas nicobarica: Good flight views of three single individuals on Babeldaob in Palau. White-throated Ground-Dove Gallicolumba xanthonura: Common and remarkably conspicuous on Saipan, Tinian and Rota, often seen flying high over the forest and occasionally perched in the top of a tree. Endemic to the Marianas. White-headed Ground-Dove Gallicolumba yapensis: Four or five individuals seen and another heard in the forest on Yap, with one male giving exceptional views as it foraged in the open along the side of a road. This form, which is endemic to Yap, is usually considered to be conspecific with the previous species and is not even given subspecific status by Pratt et al. Caroline Islands Ground-Dove Gallicolumba kubaryi: Our searches for this species on Pohnpei proved fruitless, but we soon found four near our hotel on Moen (Truk) and had great views of three in the forest on Tol South. This species, endemic to Pohnpei and Truk, is listed as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World. 10 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

11 Palau Ground-Dove Gallicolumba canifrons: This Palau endemic was gratifyingly easy this year! We had great views of at least three birds foraging on the ground in the strand forest on one of the Rock Islands in Palau, and saw another the next day on Peleliu. Purple-capped Fruit-Dove (Crimson-crowned Fruit-Dove) Ptilinopus porphyraceus: Common and easily seen in Pohnpei and Truk. It has been suggested that the forms occurring on Pohnpei and Truk (ponapensis) and Kosrae (hernsheimi) might merit treatment as a separate species, Caroline Islands Fruit-Dove P. ponapensis. Palau Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus pelewensis: Commonly heard in Palau, but surprisingly difficult to see well. After some perseverance, we eventually had decent views of perched birds. Endemic to Palau. Mariana Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus roseicapilla: Common on Saipan, Tinian and Rota, and relatively easy to see well. Endemic to the Marianas. Micronesian (Imperial) Pigeon Ducula oceanica: Two heard calling in the forest near the summit of Tol South (Truk), then seen well in flight on several occasions on Yap and Babeldaob (Palau), and heard on Urukthapel in the Rock Islands. According to one of the inhabitants of Tol South, the species has become very rare on this island as a result of heavy hunting pressure. A Micronesian endemic. PSITTACIDAE Pohnpei Lory (Pohnpei Lorikeet) Trichoglossus rubiginosus: Very common, noisy and conspicuous on Pohnpei. Some of our best views were from the veranda of our hotel. Endemic to Pohnpei. Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoo Cacatua galerita: A single bird on the main island of Babeldaob and over 20 in the Rock Islands in Palau, including one flock of 15 on Ulong. Another introduced species. Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus: Brief views of a pair on Ulong and a male on Urukthapel in Palau s Rock Islands. Yet another introduced species. STRIGIDAE Palau Owl Pyrrhoglaux podargina: Obviously quite common in the forest on Babeldaob and easily heard calling from dusk onwards, but not an easy bird to see. On our first evening out near the airport, a bird showed briefly to one of us, but then disappeared. A repeat visit to this area the next night produced only a few distant calling birds. On our final night, we tried a different area with better forest, but although one bird came tantalizingly close, it remained out of sight in dense cover and soon lost interest in us. Very frustrating! CAPRIMULGIDAE Jungle Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus: One heard calling and seen well in flight on both our evening excursions near the airport on Babeldaob. The form concerned, phalaena, is confined to Palau. This form and jotaka of eastern Asia are sometimes split off as a separate species, Grey Nightjar C. jotaka. APODIDAE Palau Swiftlet Aerodramus pelewensis: Very common and widespread in Palau, where it is an endemic. Guam Swiftlet Aerodramus bartschi: Fairly common on Saipan, where we recorded up to 30 in a day. This species is endemic to the Marianas, but now extinct on Rota and Guam, and uncommon on Tinian, where we failed to find any. It is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World. 11 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

12 Caroline Islands Swiftlet Aerodramus inquietus: Very common on Pohnpei (ponapensis) and at Truk (rukensis). This species is endemic to the eastern Caroline Islands, with the nominate form occurring on Kosrae. ALCEDINIDAE Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus (Halcyon) chloris: Common and widespread in Palau. The form concerned, teraokai, is confined to Palau. White-headed Kingfisher Todiramphus (Halcyon) albicilla: Very common on Saipan and Tinian. This form, which also occurs on Agiguan, is usually treated as a subspecies of the widespread Collared Kingfisher. Rota Kingfisher Todiramphus (Halcyon) orii: Common on Rota, where we must have seen at least 50. This form has some dark on the crown and is somewhat intermediate between the whiteheaded albicilla of Saipan and Rota, and typical Collared Kingfisher. Like albicilla, it is usually treated as a subspecies of Collared Kingfisher. Rusty-capped Kingfisher Todiramphus (Halcyon) pelewensis: Not at all common in Palau and greatly outnumbered by Collared Kingfishers. We had good views of five, mostly on roadside wires, on our first day out on Babeldaob, but then saw only one other a bird on Urukthapel. This form, which is confined to Palau, is usually treated as a subspecies of the Micronesian Kingfisher T. cinnamominus, the nominate form of which occurred on Guam but is now extinct. Pohnpei Kingfisher Todiramphus (Halcyon) reichenbachii: Fairly common on Pohnpei, but more of a forest kingfisher than the others and therefore somewhat less conspicuous. We saw about 15 in all, including several attractive juveniles. Like the previous species, this form, which is endemic to Pohnpei, is usually treated as a subspecies of the Micronesian Kingfisher T. cinnamominus. HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rusticola: Ten on Yap and common in Palau, where we saw about 100 around the rubbish tip on Koror and at least 10 on Peleliu. DICRURIDAE Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Very common on Rota, where it has been introduced, and also seen at the airport on Guam. CORVIDAE Mariana Crow Corvus kubaryi: One seen well, after a bit of a struggle, in the forest near the west end of Rota, and then another five seen from one of the lookouts along the south coast. This species, which is known only from Rota and Guam, is now probably extinct on the latter, and is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Palau Cicadabird Coracina monachum: Seemingly the commonest of the three cicadabirds. We saw at least eight in the forest on Babeldaob, four on Urukthapel and a single bird on Peleliu. The three Micronesian cicadabirds are still treated by many authors as subspecies of the widespread Slender-billed Cicadabird C. tenuirostris. Yap Cicadabird Coracina nesiotis: Great views of a male and a female at our first stop in the forest on Yap, and another female soon after, but none thereafter. A much larger cicadabird than those on Pohnpei and Palau, with a much stouter bill. 12 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

13 Pohnpei Cicadabird Coracina insperatum (NL): Apparently an uncommon bird, found only in native forest at higher elevations in the interior of Pohnpei. Here Bob and Phil saw a male and a party of three females or juveniles near the top of their climb. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Morningbird Colluricincla tenebrosa: Fairly common in Palau, and very responsive, giving exceptionally close views on several occasions. We encountered it on Babeldaob, Ulong, Urukthapel and Peleliu. This Palau endemic is not much to look at, but a great songster. MONARCHIDAE Yap Monarch Monarcha godeffroyi: Pleasingly common on Yap, where we must have seen at least 30 individuals in a variety of habitats. Endemic to Yap. Tinian Monarch Monarcha takatsukasae: Not a difficult bird to find in the woodland on Tinian. We found our first pair near the airport within minutes of arriving on the island, and came across another pair in a small patch of forest on the way to North Field. This species is known only from Tinian and Agiguan, and is listed as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World. Truk Monarch Metabolus rugiensis: Much the most difficult of the three monarchs! Those of us who climbed to the top of Tol South found a single juvenile in the forest near the summit, but a prolonged search at lower elevations on Tol South the next day proved fruitless. On our final morning in Truk, we decided to try another high island (Dublon), and here we found a pair with a juvenile in a dense thicket at sea level. This very striking Truk endemic is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World. Mangrove (or Palau) Flycatcher Myiagra erythrops: Common and very responsive to pishing in Palau, where we found it on Babeldaob, Urukthapel and Peleliu. Endemic to Palau. Oceanic Flycatcher Myiagra oceanica: The commonest of the Truk endemics. We found our first in the garden of our hotel on Moen, and went on to see lots more on Tol South and Dublon. Pohnpei Flycatcher Myiagra pluto: Common in the forest on Pohnpei and very responsive to pishing. Endemic to Pohnpei. RHIPIDURIDAE Palau Fantail Rhipidura lepida: Fairly common in Palau, where we had many good views. Endemic to Palau. Rufous Fantail Rhipidura rufifrons: Fairly common on Saipan, Tinian, Rota and Yap. Pohnpei Fantail Rhipidura kubaryi: Quite common on Pohnpei and very inquisitive, often coming in extremely close. Endemic to Pohnpei. SYLVIIDAE Palau Bush Warbler Cettia annae: Widespread and fairly common in Palau, although more often heard than seen. We had our best views in response to pishing. Endemic to Palau. Nightingale Reed Warbler Acrocephalus luscinia: It took us a while to find one, but eventually we had great views of a very responsive bird on Saipan. This species, which is endemic to the Marianas, is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World. Caroline Islands Reed Warbler Acrocephalus syrinx: Fairly common in Pohnpei and positively numerous in Truk, giving great views on many occasions, usually in response to pishing. Endemic to the Caroline Islands. MOTACILLIDAE Eastern Yellow Wagtail (Alaska Wagtail) Motacilla [flava] tschutschensis (NL): A yellow wagtail flushed by Phil and Ron on Babeldaob in Palau was presumably of this form. 13 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008

14 ARTAMIDAE White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorhynchus: We failed to find any on Babeldaob, but three birds showed well in the forest on Urukthapel. This is a localized and uncommon species in Palau, the form concerned being the endemic pelewensis. STURNIDAE Micronesian Starling Aplonis opaca: Common and widespread; recorded in good numbers on every day of the tour and on virtually every island that we visited. A Micronesian endemic. MELIPHAGIDAE Micronesian Honeyeater (Micronesian Myzomela) Myzomela rubratra: Generally common and widespread; recorded on all major islands and groups, but rather scarce on Rota, and scarce or absent on the smaller Rock Islands in Palau. A Micronesian endemic. ZOSTEROPIDAE Saipan Bridled White-eye Zosterops saypani: Very common on Saipan and Tinian, and seen well on many occasions. Endemic to Saipan and Tinian. Rota Bridled White-eye Zosterops rotensis: Obviously fairly common and easily found in native forest in the highlands of Rota, but absent from the agricultural forest at lower elevations. This species is confined to Rota and listed as Critically Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World because of its tiny range and the continuing destruction of its habitat. Plain White-eye Zosterops hypolais: Very common on Yap, where we recorded at least 100 on our first day out. Endemic to Yap. Caroline Islands White-eye Zosterops semperi: Locally common but rather unobtrusive. We found them on two occasions in Pohnpei (takatsukasai), on Tol South and Dublon in Truk (owstoni), and on Urukthapel and Peleliu in Palau (semperi). The species is endemic to these three island groups. Dusky White-eye Zosterops finschii: A common, noisy and conspicuous bird in the forest in Palau, seen on most of the islands that we visited. Endemic to Palau. Grey White-eye (Grey-brown White-eye) Zosterops cinereus: Very common on Pohnpei, where this was one of the commonest birds. Endemic to Pohnpei (ponapensis) and Kosrae (cinereus). Golden White-eye Cleptornis marchei: This unusual and brightly coloured white-eye was fairly common on Saipan and one of the few white-eyes that responded well to pishing. This species, which occurs only on Saipan and neighbouring Agiguan, is listed as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World. Great Truk White-eye Rukia ruki: Easily found in the tall forest near the summit of Tol South, where we recorded several parties totalling about 25 birds. A single bird seen at low elevation on Tol South the next day was most unusual. Confined to just four small islands in Truk Lagoon, this striking white-eye is listed as Critically Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World because of its minute range and the continuing destruction of its habitat. Olive White-eye (Yap White-eye) Rukia oleaginea: Fairly common and widespread on Yap, but unobtrusive and requiring some effort before all of us had good views. We recorded about 25 in all. Endemic to Yap. Long-billed White-eye Rukia longirostra: Fairly common in native forest on Pohnpei, and easily found by those of us who tackled the climb up the mountain, where we saw about 20. Fortunately, we also found four in a much lower patch of forest accessible by car, and everyone had great views. Endemic to Pohnpei. 14 Birdquest: Micronesia 2008