NAMIBIA & THE OKAVANGO TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 NAMIBIA & THE OKAVANGO 25 OCTOBER 12 NOVEMBER 2006 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DEREK SCOTT and STEVE BRAINE. Once again, the Birdquest tour to Namibia and the Okavango was a great success. Our epic journey of 4,875 km through this fascinating region lived up to all expectations, and was remarkably trouble free, thanks to the excellent condition of the roads, superb accommodation and very friendly and helpful service. There had been some last-minute changes to the itinerary which meant that our trip up to the north-east of Namibia and the Okavango came at the beginning of the tour rather than at the end, but this worked very well, despite adding a couple of hundred kilometres to the driving. The weather was somewhat cooler than usual this year, with the temperature rarely exceeding the midthirties, and the rainy season had already begun, although little rain actually fell on us. This was an Easybird tour, with no horrendous early starts or unnecessary exertion. Nevertheless, we managed to record a total of 420 species of birds just about the best ever recorded on a Birdquest tour to Namibia. The highlights included two wonderful Pel s Fishing Owls at Shakawe (along with nine other species of owls), superb views of Blue Cranes at Etosha, a couple of Slaty Egrets and a Western Banded Snake Eagle along the Okavango River, close views of Dune Larks and Gray s Larks in the Namib Desert, stunning views of dainty little Damara Terns in Walvis Bay, a dozen Ludwig s Bustards and a remarkable concentration of Burchell s Coursers in the desert near Uis, a Rufous-bellied Tit in the miombo woodland, and a Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrush on its nest near the Kunene River. Scarce Palearctic migrants included an Amur Falcon, a flock of 200 Black-winged Pratincoles, a Green Sandpiper, 18 Red-necked Phalarope and two European Rollers. As always, the tour produced an impressive selection of mammals; 46 species in all, including a total of 28 Lions, over 100 African Elephants and four Black Rhinoceroses. We arrived in Windhoek in the morning and had a quick look at some cattle pens near the airport where we found a Kalahari Scrub-Robin and a flock of Sociable Weavers, before heading off north towards our first destination Mount Etjo Safari Lodge in the open bush country south of Otjiwarongo. After a simple lunch at a German coffee house in Okahandja, we took a few moments to enjoy close views of Bradfield s Swifts and African Palm-Swifts visiting their nests in the palm trees by the railway track, and then continued on north through the seemingly endless bush of eastern Namibia. Several stops along the way gave us an introduction to some of the commoner bush birds and by the time we reached the entrance to Mount Etjo Safari Lodge, we had already built up an 1 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

2 impressive list including Swainson s Spurfowl, Red-billed Francolin, Kori Bustard, Violet Woodhoopoe, Damara, Southern Yellow-billed and Monteiro s Hornbills, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Chestnut-vented Titbabbler, Long-billed Crombec, Desert Cisticola, Black-chested Prinia, Marico Flycatcher, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Burchell s Starling, Great Sparrow and Scaly-feathered Finch. The lodge was set in an extensive garden on the edge of a large dam which was teeming in waterbirds including a few Great White Pelicans, African Spoonbills, Marabou Storks and Yellowbilled Storks along with hundreds of Egyptian Geese and Red-billed Ducks and a wide assortment of waders. We had a full day to explore the Mount Etjo area, and had little difficulty in finding just about all of the birds that we might expect, including Lappet-faced Vulture, Tawny and Wahlberg s Eagles, Redcrested Korhaan, Spotted Thick-knee, Double-banded Sandgrouse, Rosy-faced Lovebird, Purple Roller, Acacia Pied Barbet, Cardinal Woodpecker, Red-breasted Swallow, Ashy Tit, Southern Pied Babbler, Short-toed Rock-Thrush, Capped Wheatear, Burnt-necked Eremomela, African Wren- Warbler, Rockrunner, Pririt Batis, White-tailed Shrike, Southern White-crowned Shrike, Marico and White-bellied Sunbirds, Southern Masked and Lesser Masked Weavers, Green-winged Pytilia, Blue, Violet-eared and Black-faced Waxbills, and Red-headed Finch. A South African Shelduck and an African Fish Eagle at the dam by the lodge were unexpected bonuses. There was plenty a big game about, but most of this had been introduced to cater for hunters, and included several exotic species such as Nyala. From Mount Etjo, it was a long drive to our next destination, Rundu, in the north-east of the country. However, the driving was easy and there were plenty of birds along the way. Soon after leaving the lodge we found three Northern Black Korhaans, more Swainson s Spurfowls and a Fawn-coloured Lark, and as we drove north, we found lots of Greater Striped and Lesser Striped Swallows on the roadside wires as well as our first Lilac-breasted Rollers and several flocks of Pale-winged Starlings. There were also plenty of raptors about, including at least 20 Black-shouldered Kites, a fine Martial Eagle, four Brown Snake Eagles, two Black-chested Snake Eagles and several Bateleurs. We stopped for lunch at Roy s Camp in the bush north-east of Grootfontein, and here, after a short walk which produced good views of Brubru and White-crested Helmetshrike, we eventually found a group of Black-faced Babblers foraging in the leaf-litter just outside the restaurant. Here also we found a Groundscraper Thrush sitting on its nest only a few yards away from the dining area. By late afternoon we had reached the miombo woodland characteristic of Namibia s north-east border regions, and shortly before arriving at Rundu, we stopped for our first foray into this interesting habitat. The birding was rather quiet at this time of day, but in the space of an hour and a half, we managed to find Dark Chanting Goshawk, Kurrichane Thrush, Tinkling Cisticola, Neddicky, Southern Black Flycatcher, Chinspot Batis, Amethyst Sunbird, African Yellow White-eye, Red-headed Weaver, Yellow-fronted Canary and Golden-breasted Bunting. The sun was beginning to go down by the time that we arrived at our lodge on the banks of the Okavango River, and it was definitely time for a beer! Early the next morning, we paid our first visit to Rundu sewage works, where we spent a very enjoyable two hours birding along the edge of the marsh. Highlights included three Rufous-bellied Herons, a little flock of Hottentot Teal, an African Rail responding well to the tape recorder, a very obliging Baillon s Crake, two Greater Painted-Snipes, three Temminck s Coursers flying in to drink, two very responsive Little Rush Warblers, a Magpie Shrike, two Fan-tailed Widowbirds and about 50 Shaft-tailed Whydahs. A Grey-headed Kingfisher perched obligingly on the wires near our lodge, while in the lodge garden we found a very responsive African Barred Owlet as well as our first Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Icterine Warbler, Ashy Flycatcher and African Paradise-Flycatcher. Later, as we drove east towards the west end of the Caprivi Strip, we made a couple of stops in the miombo woodland and, although it was very hot, managed to find a few more woodland birds including 2 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

3 Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Black Cuckooshrike, White-breasted Cuckooshrike, Southern Black Tit, White-browed Scrub-Robin and Scarlet-chested Sunbird, as well as another Martial Eagle and another Dark Chanting Goshawk. We stopped briefly at a stretch of rapids near Divundu, where we found about ten Rock Pratincoles, a pair of African Wattled Lapwings and our first Coppery-tailed Coucal and Black-collared Barbet, and a few minutes later we arrived at Ndhovu Lodge, a luxurious tented camp overlooking the river. We still had plenty of time to explore the extensive grounds of the lodge, and soon discovered that the birding here was excellent. A short stroll around the garden produced a pair of Broad-billed Rollers, a family of Green Woodhoopoes, a pair of Crested Barbets, a pair of Bennett s Woodpeckers, small parties of Arrow-marked and Hartlaub s Babblers, several Whitebrowed Robin-Chats and Violet-backed Starlings, a pair of Greater Blue-eared Starlings, three Yellowbilled Oxpeckers and four Purple-banded Sunbirds. The birding from the armchairs on the veranda, overlooking the Okavango River, was no less interesting. In the space of an hour or so we recorded a Goliath Heron, a Slaty Egret, 13 Woolly-necked Storks, 300 White-faced Whistling-Ducks, 20 Comb Ducks, 60 Spur-winged Geese, an Osprey, a Eurasian Hobby, seven Long-toed Lapwings, a Water Thick-knee, 10 more Rock Pratincoles, eight African Skimmers, a flock of 10 Burchell s Sandgrouse, 30 Meyer s Parrots, two Jacobin Cuckoos, a Giant Kingfisher, two Bradfield s Hornbills and a Bushbuck. This was, indeed, easy birding! Another walk around the garden the next morning produced a White-browed Coucal, two noisy Terrestrial Brownbuls, a very responsive Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike and a little flock of Brown Firefinches, and then it was only a short drive to the Mahango Game Reserve on the Botswana border. Sadly, big game was surprisingly scarce this year, perhaps because of the abundant rainfall, although there were still plenty of Red Lechwe and Reedbuck out on the floodplain. However, the birding was as good as ever, and new additions to our list included Black Heron, African Openbill, Saddle-billed Stork, African Marsh Harrier, Lanner Falcon, Lesser Kestrel, Southern Carmine Beeeater, Rufous-naped Lark, Black-headed Oriole and Red-billed Oxpecker. Here also we found another Martial Eagle and had great views of two more Bradfield s Hornbills and another Bennett s Woodpecker. The highlight, however, was two pairs of Wattled Cranes with well-grown young on the floodplain. Crossing the border into Botswana can be a tiresome business, but this year an African Cuckoo-Hawk at the Namibian border post and a pair of Southern White-faced Scops-Owls at their nest outside the Botswana border post livened things up considerably. It was only a short drive from the border to Shakawe Fishing Lodge in the Okavango Panhandle, and we arrived in plenty of time for afternoon tea on the lawn. White-fronted Bee-eaters were foraging from their usual perch on a dead tree by the river, and various weavers - Thick-billed, Spectacled, Golden and Southern Brownthroated were busy with their nests. After admiring a sleepy African Wood-Owl at its regular day roost near the cabins, we went for a short walk in the woodland and were rewarded with great views of a Narina Trogon, lured in to the tape-recorder. But the main business of the day was still to come. As soon as it was dark, half our number headed upstream in one of the lodge s boats in search of the fabled Pel s Fishing Owl, while the rest of us waited patiently on the bank. Less than half an hour later the boat returned, and it was immediately obvious, from the beaming faces on board, that all had gone well. The second party jumped into the boat, and within a few minutes were also enjoying great views of this magnificent owl. The pressure was now off, and we could relax for the rest of our stay at this beautiful lodge. The whole of the next day was spent around the lodge and on the river, with boat trips downstream in the morning and upstream in the afternoon. The flowering and fruiting trees around the lodge were full of birds, while along the river, large numbers of Reed Cormorants, African Darters, herons and egrets thronged the reed-beds, a variety of raptors passed overhead, Whiskered Terns patrolled over the water, African Skimmers rested on the sandbanks, colourful Malachite Kingfishers darted ahead of us, and an assortment of warblers and weavers dodged in and out of the papyrus. Highlights included 3 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

4 another Slaty Egret, a Long-crested Eagle, an immature Western Banded Snake Eagle, fantastic views of a mixed colony of Southern Carmine and White-fronted Bee-eaters in the riverbank, and several Greater Swamp Warblers responding to the tape. Unusual sightings included a pair of Burchell s Sandgrouse flying low overhead, and a Green Sandpiper and Lesser Black-backed Gull two very scarce migrants this far south. In the afternoon, we took time off from our siesta to look for the Pel s Fishing Owl at its day roost in the nearby forest. With his remarkable eyesight, it did not take Steve long to spot one way up in a huge tree, and we were soon enjoying wonderful scope views of this marmalade owl in full daylight. Only the catastrophe with Jack s camera detracted from the magic of the moment. An early morning potter in the garden the next day produced good views of Woodland Kingfisher and Collared Sunbird, and then after breakfast we left Shakawe and Botswana for another visit to the Mahango Game Reserve before heading back through the miombo woodland to Rundu. It was raining quite heavily as we drove into the Game Reserve, but there were lots of birds about, including a pair of Woolly-necked Storks at close range, a pair of Red-necked Falcons taking a bath in the road, at least 25 Swainson s Spurfowl, large numbers of Collared Pratincoles and a Buffy Pipit. A couple of short stops in the woodland near the entrance to the reserve were very productive, adding Shikra, Striped Kingfisher, Bearded Woodpecker, Green-capped Eremomela and Long-tailed Paradise- Whydah to our list, as well as a very obliging Sharp-tailed Starling (a speciality of this area). The miombo woodland on the drive back to Rundu was very quiet by comparison, but we did manage to find a Yellow-breasted Apalis and a pair of Pale Flycatchers. We were back at Rundu in time to visit the sewage works at sunset, and here we found our first Black-headed Heron, several African Snipe and another seven Greater Painted Snipe. Much of the next day was devoted to driving, as we covered over 600 km from Rundu to Erongo Wilderness Lodge in the Erongo Mountains near Omaruru. However, we had time for a quick stop in the woodland south of Rundu and here, almost immediately, we found one of the prize targets in this area the elusive Rufous-bellied Tit as well as a Lesser Honeyguide. Further south, we stopped to check a crag where Verreaux s Eagles have nested for many years, and as we were watching, the pair flew in and alighted on their nest. Other birds recorded during this drive included our first African Hawk-Eagles, another two Martial Eagles and a European Roller. The driving proved less arduous than anticipated, and by late afternoon we had arrived at our very picturesque lodge set amongst rocky hills. After settling into our tents, we still had time for an evening stroll amongst the rocks, and this produced the much hoped for Hartlaub s Francolin as well as three more Verreaux s Eagles, several Rockrunners, and our first Carp s Tits, Yellow-bellied Eremomelas, Dusky Sunbirds, Chestnut Weavers and Cape Buntings. We reconvened outside the reception area at dusk and soon found our other main target for the evening a Freckled Nightjar which called loudly from the rocks around the cabins and flew low over our heads in response to the tape. Over breakfast the next morning, we enjoyed close views of Speckled Pigeons and Rosy-faced Lovebirds at the drinking pool outside the restaurant, and then we set off towards Spitzkoppe a spectacular isolated kopje at the edge of the Namib Desert. As we were approaching, we encountered our first flocks of Namaqua Sandgrouse and several Karoo Chats and Chat Flycatchers. Our main target at Spitzkoppe was the endemic Herero Chat, but a tramp around in the heat of the day produced only fleeting glimpses for one of us. However, the were several other birds about, including our first White-backed Mousebirds, Mountain Wheatears, Common Fiscals and Whitethroated Canaries, along with more Cape Buntings and lots of Lark-like Buntings. After an excellent picnic lunch in the shade of a huge boulder, with Pale-winged Starling begging for scraps at our feet, we continued our journey towards Swakopmund on the coast. We had not gone far before we spotted a pair of Rüppell s Korhaans hiding in the shade of a bush by the roadside, and soon after we 4 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

5 found five extremely tame Spike-heeled Larks at a rock shop. After a quick turnaround in Swakopmund, we headed back out into the stark desert landscapes of Namib Naukluft National Park to look for the strange Welwitschia plants that grow here in relative profusion. The plants were not hard to find (they had been here for a thousand years!) and were greatly admired, as were the five Gray s Larks and Tractrac Chat that we found in the same area. We ended the day with a quick look at the jetty in Swakopmund where we found three Bank Cormorants amongst the many Cape Cormorants. The next day began with close looks at the Orange River White-eyes and Cape Sparrows in the hotel garden and a visit to Swakopmund jetty, where we had much better views of the Bank Cormorants and found a few Crowned Cormorants. From here, we headed south to Walvis Bay undoubtedly one of the greatest coastal wetlands in Africa, supporting upwards of a million birds in the austral summer. Much of our time was spent checking through the huge flocks of cormorants, flamingos, waders, gulls and terns in the bay and on the adjacent salt pans. Notable finds included a flock of several hundred Cape Teal, 100 dainty little Chestnut-banded Plovers, 18 Red-necked Phalaropes, 300 Pied Avocets, two Grey-headed Gulls, 25 Caspian Terns and at least 30 Damara Terns. We also visited an area of sand dunes a few kilometres inland, where we quickly found the local speciality, the endemic Dune Lark, but a visit to Walvis Bay sewage works produced little other than a couple of African Purple Swamphens and a few African Reed-Warblers. A short sea-watch from the ocean beach in the early afternoon produced a Wilson s Storm-Petrel our first of two write-ins as well as about 12 Sooty Shearwaters, 15 Cape Gannets and some very inquisitive Cape Fur Seals. Later in the afternoon, we visited Swakopmund sewage works, where there were a couple of Cape Shovelers and several Maccoa Ducks, and the extensive salt works north of town, where we found many more flamingos, ducks and waders including three Eurasian Curlews. The next morning, before settling down to the long drive to our next destination, Hobatere, we paid a second visit to Swakopmund salt works, and finally had close-up views of a little flock of Lesser Flamingos. The 500-km drive to Hobatere, near the west end of Etosha National Park, went very smoothly, and there were enough good birds along the way to keep us occupied. The vegetation in the desert between Henties Bay and Uis was unusually lush this year, and birds were present in abundance, including a dozen Ludwig s Bustards, at least 200 Burchell s Courser, four Doublebanded Coursers, 30 Namaqua Sandgrouse, hundreds of Stark s Larks, two more Gray s Larks and our first Grey-backed Sparrowlarks. Our attempts to find an Herero Chat in the hills north of Uis were fruitless, but we did come across a spectacular Spotted Eagle Owl, a Benguela Long-billed Lark and a Bokmakierie. North of the Ugab River, we stopped to check out a small dam, and found a wide assortment of waterbirds including a pair of South African Shelducks and a flock of 14 Southern Pochards, as well as our only African Harrier-Hawk of the trip. We finally arrived at our lodge at Hobatere in time for a relaxing half hour in the hide overlooking the waterhole. A night drive that evening produced little in the way of birds, but gave us excellent views of a pride of 10 Lions, an African Wild Cat, five Bat-eared Foxes and a Cape Fox. Our full day at Hobatere was a nice, easy day. We began with an early-morning walk on the hillside behind the lodge, and then went for game drives in Steve s battle wagon after breakfast and again in the late afternoon. The birding was excellent, and the day s tally included two Secretarybirds, the only Augur Buzzard of the trip, two very tame Orange River Francolins, a pair of Hartlaub s Francolins, several Rüppell s Parrots, about 30 Madagascar Bee-eaters, more Violet Woodhoopoes, lots of Damara Hornbills, a Monotonous Lark, several noisy groups of Bare-cheeked Babblers, and some delightfully tame Meves s Starlings and Cinnamon-breasted Buntings. The mammals were also a delight, and included good numbers of African Elephant, Mountain Zebra, Giraffe, Impala, Gemsbok, Greater Kudu and Eland. After lunch, we ventured forth into the valley below the lodge 5 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

6 and, with a watchful eye on the nearby elephants, had great views of a pair of huge Verreaux s Eagle Owls and a pair of tiny Pearl-spotted Owlets in the same tree. To complete a trio of owls, Steve showed us an African Scops-Owl at its daytime roost later that afternoon. The day ended with another night drive, and this produced uncomfortably close views of a big male Lion plus four Smallspotted Genets, a Gabar Goshawk on its nest and a male Rufous-cheeked Nightjar. We left Hobatere immediately after breakfast the next morning and took a tortuous route on dirt roads to a group of springs in the Ehombo Mountains that Steve assured us would have Cinderella Waxbills. After the best part of five hours of driving in the dust and the heat, we finally arrived at the site, only to find that there had been rain within the recent past. Steve saw a Cinderella Waxbill fly off soon after we arrived, but very few birds were coming in to drink, and after a couple of hours with little to see other than a few Rüppell s Parrots and Jameson s Firefinches, we drove on down to the Kunene River on the Angolan border to look for the Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrush. This time we met with almost instant success, a pair responding to the tape recorder at our first attempt and eventually showing themselves. Well pleased, we drove a few kilometres to the Kunene River Lodge and repaired immediately to the veranda for a cool drink. But there were too many birds in the garden for us to stay still for long. A Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrush was sitting on its nest on a lamp outside one of the rooms; a very responsive White-browed Coucal called back to us from overhead, and a little flock of Red-billed Firefinches was showing well in the campsite. It was an early start the next morning, as we had a long drive to get to the western (Galton) gate of Etosha National Park before it was closed to traffic at AM. Shortly after leaving the lodge, we screeched to a halt to look at a Grey Kestrel, and as we drove south from Ruacana, we stopped to inspect a small falcon on the roadside wires and found, to our delight, that it was a female Amur Falcon a very scarce migrant in Namibia. Despite these distractions, we arrived at the Galton gate with half an hour to spare and, armed with our special permits, entered this famous national park at its western extremity on a road that is seldom travelled by tourists. It was about 200 km to our lodge at Okaukuejo, and for most of this way, we had the road to ourselves. Large areas of the park had recently been burned and the wildlife was very patchy, but the birds included two fine White-headed Vultures along with about 15 Lappet-faced and 80 White-backed Vultures at a carcass, good numbers of Red-capped Lark, about 30 Chestnut-backed Sparrowlarks, our first Cape Crows, and our first obliging pair of Black-crowned Tchagras. We arrived at our lodge at Okaukuejo in time for sunset at the waterhole, and later that evening had splendid views of four Black Rhinoceroses and four young male Lions coming in to drink while a pair of Verreaux s Eagle Owls looked on. Early the next morning, we went for a pre-breakfast drive out onto the plains to the north of Okaukuejo. Our main objective was the Pink-billed Lark and this we found easily, along with some very tame Greater Kestrels, a few Southern Ant-eating Chats, a pair of African Quail-Finches and a Spotted Hyaena. Before leaving Okaukuejo, we had a quick look at a large Sociable Weaver colony in the lodge grounds, and here we found a female Pygmy Falcon. We then spent the rest of the day driving leisurely east along the south side of the pan to Namutoni, stopping for lunch at the rest camp at Halali and visiting a number of waterholes along the way. There was plenty of big game about, including another five Lions, but by now we had seen most of the commoner birds of Etosha, and the only additions to our list were four superb Blue Cranes in the open grassland, a Pallid Harrier, a flock of 200 Black-winged Pratincoles at one of the waterholes, and two pretty little Rufous-eared Warblers. Other birds of interest included four Secretarybirds, two Martial Eagles, several Lanner Falcons, at least 40 Kori Bustards, a pair of Temminck s Coursers and eight Double-banded Coursers. At our lunch stop at Halali, we spent a pleasant half hour watching swirling flocks of Red-billed Queleas and Red-headed Finches coming in to drink at the waterhole along with a small group of Red Hartebeest. We arrived at Namutoni in time for a walk in the extensive lodge grounds, and here 6 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

7 we found a huge band of comical little Banded Mongooses scampering about on the lawn. Finally, as a the sun was setting, a herd of 51 African Elephants came trooping up to the waterhole to drink and splash about for a while. On our second full day at Etosha, we had hired an open-sided truck to take us on game drives in the morning and afternoon. This was a great success, giving everyone unobstructed views of the wildlife, although the afternoon drive had to be cut short a bit because of heavy showers. The morning drive took us north to the Andoni Plains and back via a series of waterholes and Dik-dik Drive, while in the afternoon, we circled Fischer s Pan and visited Twee Palms. Fischer s Pan still retained a lot of water and there were masses of waterbirds about, including a few Greater Flamingos, 200 Lesser Flamingos, three South African Shelducks, a couple of Cape Teal and 12 Marsh Sandpipers along with hundreds of other waders. The grassland on Andoni Plains was alive with singing Eastern Clapper Larks, African Pipits and Zitting Cisticolas, and at a nearby waterhole we found yet more Lions. Lesser Grey Shrikes were surprisingly abundant we must have seen 50 all day and amongst them there were a few Red-backed Shrikes. Other Palearctic migrants included two Ring-tailed Harriers (Montagu s or Pallid) and another European Roller. At the waterhole at Twee Palms, we had superb views of a pair of Blue Cranes, and at other waterholes we found three Chestnut-banded Plovers and several Buffy Pipits. Back at the lodge that evening we were treated to an excellent barbecue supper on the lawn, with two very bold Black-backed Jackals begging for scraps around the tables. After one last look at Namutoni waterhole the next morning, we loaded the buses for the last time and set off on the long drive to Windhoek. The driving was easy, and we had time to take a short detour in Otjiwarongo to visit the local sewage works. There were plenty of birds about, including a few Hottentot Teal and a Marsh Sandpiper, but nothing new, so we were soon on our way again. After an uneventful journey, we arrived back at Windhoek airport with plenty of time for another look at the nearby cattle pens, but again there were no sandgrouse about. Back at the airport, several South African Cliff Swallows were flying around over the terminal buildings and gave us a last-minute addition to our list, and then suddenly we were boarding our flight home, at the end of a really great tour. 7 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

8 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leaders are indicated by the symbol (NL). STRUTHIONIDAE Common Ostrich Struthio camelus: Many great sightings of these stately giants at Mount Etjo, in the desert between Henties Bay and Uis, and at Etosha. Best were the three adults with 32 small chicks near Uis. PODICIPEDIDAE Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis: Three on the saline lagoons at Walvis Bay. Little Grebe (Dabchick) Tachybaptus ruficollis: Good numbers at freshwater wetlands throughout. PROCELLARIIDAE Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus: Twelve passing south off the ocean beach at Walvis Bay. HYDROBATIDAE Wilson s Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus: One flying south off the ocean beach at Walvis Bay. PELECANIDAE Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus: Three lost individuals on the dam at Mount Etjo, four flying purposefully over the desert in Namib Naukluft National Park, and at least 60 in the Walvis Bay area. SULIDAE Cape Gannet Morus capensis: About 15 offshore at Swakopmund and Walvis Bay. PHALACROCORACIDAE White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus: About 10 at Mount Etjo, good numbers on the coast, and two at Otjiwarongo sewage works. Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis: Vast numbers along the coast, with large colonies on the guano platforms. Bank Cormorant Phalacrocorax neglectus: Great views of five on the jetty at Swakopmund. Reed Cormorant (Long-tailed Cormorant) Phalacrocorax africanus: Common in freshwater habitats in the north. Crowned Cormorant Phalacrocorax coronatus: Four with other cormorants on the jetty at Swakopmund. ANHINGIDAE African Darter Anhinga rufa: Very common along the Okavango at Shakawe, and also seen on the river near Divundu, at Ndhovu Lodge and in the Mahango Game Reserve. ARDEIDAE Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: A few at Mount Etjo, one at Rundu sewage works, about 20 in the Walvis Bay area, one at Etosha, and one at Otjiwarongo sewage works. Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala: One at Rundu sewage works, three in the Walvis Bay area, several around waterholes at Etosha, and two at Otjiwarongo sewage works. 8 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

9 Goliath Heron Ardea goliath: One by the Okavango at Ndhovu Lodge, one in the Mahango Game Reserve, and one at Shakawe. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: About 10 along the Okavango at Shakawe, and also seen at Rundu sewage works, Ndhovu Lodge and Mahango Game Reserve. Great Egret (Great White Egret) Egretta alba: About 12 in the Mahango Game Reserve and small numbers at several other freshwater wetlands in the north. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Ten along the river at Shakawe, about 50 in the Walvis Bay area, and odd ones at freshwater wetlands elsewhere. Yellow-billed Egret (Intermediate Egret) Egretta intermedia: Two rather distant birds on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve. Black Heron (Black Egret) Egretta ardesiaca: One on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve and 12 along the river at Shakawe. Slaty Egret Egretta vinaceigula: A single bird flew past as we were relaxing on the veranda at Ndhovu Lodge, and another came up from the reed-beds during our morning boat trip at Shakawe. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Fairly common in the north, and also seen in the Walvis Bay area and at Etosha. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides: Recorded in small numbers at Rundu sewage works, in the Mahango Game Reserve and at Otjiwarongo sewage works, and found in abundance along the Okavango at Shakawe. Rufous-bellied Heron Ardeola rufiventris: Decent flight views of three at Rundu sewage works on our first visit, and also seen briefly on our second visit to the sewage works and from the veranda of the Kavango River Lodge. Green-backed Heron (Striated Heron) Butorides striatus: First encountered by the dams at Mount Etjo, and then seen on many occasions in the north-east. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Small numbers on several occasions: at Mount Etjo, Ndhovu Lodge, Shakawe, Rundu sewage works and Otjiwarongo sewage works. Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus: Two flushed from the reed-beds along the river at Shakawe. The subspecies involved is payesii which breeds in sub-saharan Africa. SCOPIDAE Hamerkop Scopus umbretta: A couple at Mount Etjo, one at Rundu sewage works, and a couple at Shakawe. CICONIIDAE Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: Distant views of a flock of 13 from the veranda at Ndhovu Lodge and close views of a pair foraging in the Mahango Game Reserve. African Openbill (African Open-billed Stork) Anastomus lamelligerus: Distant views of about 10 on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve. Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis: Distant views of a single bird in flight over the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve on both our visits. Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus: Close views of up to 15 at the dams at Mount Etjo, four in the Mahango Game Reserve, and six at Etosha. Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis: At least three at the dam at Mount Etjo and single birds in the Mahango Game Reserve and at Shakawe. THRESKIORNITHIDAE African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus: One flew by at Ndhovu Lodge, and single birds were seen on two occasions at Shakawe. 9 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

10 African Spoonbill Platalea alba: Great views of ten on the dam at Mount Etjo. PHOENICOPTERIDAE Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber: Great views of several thousands in the Walvis Bay area and at the salt pans north of Swakopmund. Also a single juvenile at a small dam in the hills near the Ugab River and a dozen at Fischer s Pan in Etosha. Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor: Surprisingly scarce in Walvis Bay this year. We struggled to find just three individuals amongst the thousands of Greater Flamingos in the bay, and found only 20 at the salt works north of Swakopmund the next morning. However, there were about 200 at Fischer s Pan in Etosha National Park, and these gave splendid views in the soft evening light. ANATIDAE White-faced Duck (White-faced Whistling-Duck) Dendrocygna viduata: Common at Rundu sewage works, along the Okavango at Ndhovu Lodge, in the Mahango Game Reserve and at Shakawe, and also seen at Otjiwarongo sewage works. Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus: About 200 at the dam at Mount Etjo, 40 in the Walvis Bay area, and smaller numbers at several other localities. South African Shelduck Tadorna cana: Good views of a female at Mount Etjo, a pair at a small dam north of the Ugab River, and three on Fischer s Pan at Etosha. A party of four flew over the waterhole at Namutoni on our last morning. Cape Teal Anas capensis: Over 400 in the Walvis Bay area, including a pair with two chicks on the Swakop River. Also a pair on Fischer s Pan at Etosha. Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota: Good views of about a dozen at Rundu sewage works and five at Otjiwarongo sewage works. Red-billed Teal (Red-billed Duck) Anas erythrorhyncha: At least 100 on the dams at Mount Etjo, three in the Mahango Game Reserve, 50 on the small dam north of the Ugab River, small numbers at several of the waterholes and 300 on Fisher s Pan at Etosha, and 50 at Otjiwarongo sewage works. Cape Shoveler Anas smithii: Two at Swakopmund sewage works and one at the salt works north of town. Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma: Rather distant views of a flock of 14 on the small dam north of the Ugab River. Comb Duck (Knob-billed Duck) Sarkidiornis melanotos: About 20 flying along the Okavango at Ndhovu Lodge and three over the river at Shakawe. Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis: At least 60 flying along the Okavango at Ndhovu Lodge and up to 40 in the Mahango Game Reserve. Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa: Seven at Swakopmund sewage works. SAGITTARIDAE Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius: Superb views of a couple at Hobatere and seven in Etosha National Park. ACCIPITRIDAE White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus: The most commonly encountered vulture, seen well on many occasions. The largest concentrations were observed at carcasses in the Mahango Game Reserve and Etosha National Park. Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus: Great looks at these huge vultures on several occasions. Best were the dozen or so with about 80 White-backed Vultures at a carcass in the western part of Etosha National Park 10 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

11 White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis: Excellent views of an adult and an immature on the ground near a carcass in the western part of Etosha National Park. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius: Common in the north-east and scattered individuals further south. Black-shouldered Kite (Black-winged Kite) Elanus caeruleus: Common and widespread except in the arid west. African Cuckoo Hawk Aviceda cuculoides: Good flight views of one over the Namibian border post as we were crossing into Botswana. Verreaux s Eagle (Black Eagle) Aquila verreauxii: Scope views of a pair at the nest on a crag as we were driving south to Omaruru, and then a pair and an immature in the Erongo Mountains. Definitely one of the world s great eagles. Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax: Several great looks at this resident eagle, especially at Mount Etjo, Hobatere and Etosha. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: One soaring over the marshes near Shakawe. Wahlberg s Eagle Aquila wahlbergi: Several good sightings, including three individuals at Mount Etjo. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: One flew over the lodge at Mount Etjo. African Hawk Eagle Hieraaetus spilogaster: Six sightings of pairs or single birds, mostly during our long drives. Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis: A distant bird over the marshes near Shakawe. Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus: Great views of this magnificent eagle on several occasions: one on the drive north to Rundu, one between Rundu and Divundu, two on the drive south to Omaruru, one on the drive to Hobatere, and two at Etosha. Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus: About ten individuals recorded, mostly sitting on pylons. Black-chested Snake Eagle (Black-breasted Snake Eagle) Circaetus pectoralis: Fewer than usual this year. Two on the drive north to Rundu, then only singles on three occasions. This is usually one of the commoner eagles. Western Banded Snake Eagle Circaetus cinerascens: Close views of an immature perched in a tree by the river at Shakawe. This bird had been hanging around for some days and had presumably been reared locally. Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus: Many excellent sightings of this bizarre raptor throughout the tour. Best was the pair perched in a tree as we drove into the lodge at Hobatere. We logged about 40 individuals. African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer: Distant views of one by the dam at Mount Etjo, then commonly encountered along the Okavango and in the Mahango Game Reserve. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: Over 20 individuals of the form vulpinus, mostly in the north and east. This form (as in the latest SASOL guide) is sometimes split off as a separate species, the Steppe Buzzard B. vulpinus. Augur Buzzard Buteo augur: Good views of at least one at Hobatere. Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus: Brief fly-by views of one at Mount Etjo, and one found dead in the Mahango Game Reserve. Shikra (Little Banded Goshawk) Accipiter badius: A single bird and a pair seen well in the woodland between the Mahango Game Reserve and Rundu, and also recorded on the way to the Kunene River. Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar: About six sightings, including a bird on its nest during our second night drive at Hobatere. Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax canorus: One of the commonest and most conspicuous raptors, absent only in the relatively humid north-east. 11 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

12 Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates: Great views of one in the miombo woodland just south of Rundu, and another on a telegraph pole by the roadside as we were driving from Rundu to Divundu. African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus: Distant views of a singleton on both our visits to the Mahango Game Reserve, and great views of about five or six along the Okavango at Shakawe. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus: Close views of an immature between Okaukuejo and Namutoni in Etosha National Park. Two ring-tailed harriers seen near Fischer s Pan the next day were either this species or Montagu s Harrier C. pygargus. African Harrier-Hawk (Gymnogene) Polyboroides typus: A single bird dropping out of the sky to drink at the small dam north of the Ugab River. PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: One over the river at Ndhovu Lodge and one at Rundu sewage works. FALCONIDAE Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: A distant perched bird at Rundu sewage works and another perched bird in Etosha National Park. Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus: About ten sightings, mostly at Etosha where several gave good views around waterholes. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo: A distant bird over the river at Ndhovu Lodge and one in the Mahango Game Reserve on our second visit. Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera: Superb views of a pair on the road in the Mahango Game Reserve on our second visit, and one over the waterhole at Namutoni at dusk. Amur Falcon Falco amurensis: Great views of an immature on roadside wires on the drive south from Ruacana to Etosha. This is a scarce migrant to Namibia from eastern Asia, flying across the Indian Ocean to reach Africa. Rock Kestrel (Common Kestrel) Falco tinnunculus: Seen well in the Erongo Mountains and on several other occasions in hilly areas. The local breeding birds are a potential split. Greater Kestrel (White-eyed Kestrel) Falco rupicoloides: Recorded on the drive to Swakopmund and on the drives to and from the Kunene River, and finally seen very well in Etosha National Park, where we saw about a dozen including a pair copulating. Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni: A single bird in the Mahango Game Reserve on our first visit, and a possible in Etosha National Park. Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus: Close, but sadly rather brief, views of a single bird in riverine woodland along the Kunene River as we were leaving. Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus: Good views of a female at a Sociable Weaver colony in the compound at Okaukuejo. PHASIANIDAE Coqui Francolin Peliperdix coqui (H): Heard calling in the miombo woodland south of Rundu, but unresponsive to the tape. Crested Francolin Peliperdix sephaena (H): Heard calling on several occasions in the north-east. Orange River Francolin Scleroptila levaillantoides: Amazing views of a very confiding pair on the track in the woodland at Hobatere, and also heard calling in the Erongo Mountains. Although widespread in Namibia, this can be a very elusive bird. Red-billed Francolin Pternistes adspersus: A common species on this tour, seen extremely well on many occasions. Hartlaub s Francolin Pternistes hartlaubi: Good scope views of a male amongst the boulders near Erongo Wilderness Lodge and a pair on a rocky hillside near the lodge at Hobatere. 12 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

13 Red-necked Spurfowl (Red-necked Francolin) Pternistes afer (H): Heard calling in the distance from Kunene River Lodge. Swainson s Spurfowl (Swainson s Francolin) Pternistes swainsonii: Good views of three by the roadside as we were driving to Mount Etjo and six in the same area as we were leaving, then four on our first visit to the Mahango Game Reserve and about 25 on our second visit. This is far more than we usually see. NUMIDIDAE Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris: Common throughout the arid savanna habitats of central and eastern Namibia, but apparently absent from the coastal deserts and relatively humid north-east. GRUIDAE Wattled Crane Grus carunculata: Good scope views of two pairs, each with a single juvenile, on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve. Blue Crane Anthropoides paradisea: Great views of a party of four in the grassland between Okaukuejo and Namutoni, and superb views of a pair at a waterhole near Namutoni the next day. This is surely one of the prettiest of the cranes, and fully deserving of its second place in the Bird of the Trip contest. RALLIDAE African Rail (African Water Rail) Rallus caerulescens: Close but brief views of one responding to the tape at Rundu sewage works, and several others heard in the same area. Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris: Seen exceptionally well on several occasions in the north, most notably by the pond outside the restaurant at Shakawe where a pair had small chicks, and also seen at the waterhole at Namutoni. Baillon s Crake Porzana pusilla: Great views of a very obliging bird at Rundu sewage works as we were waiting for the African Rail to put in an appearance. African Purple Swamphen (African Purple Gallinule) Porphyrio porphyrio: Two or three at Rundu sewage works, a single bird at Shakawe, and two at the sewage lagoons at Walvis Bay. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Present in most freshwater habitats. Red-knobbed Coot (Crested Coot) Fulica cristata: Small numbers at Mount Etjo, Rundu sewage works, Walvis Bay, Namutoni and Otjiwarongo sewage works. OTIDIDAE Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori: Many great views of this impressive bustard in Etosha National Park where they were unusually abundant this year. We also saw a few near Mount Etjo and a couple at Hobatere. Ludwig s Bustard Neotis ludwigii: Superb views of several small groups totalling 12 individuals in the desert between Henties Bay and Uis. Rüppell s Korhaan Eupodotis rueppellii: Great views of two pairs and a single bird near Spitzkoppe, and another bird on the drive from Henties Bay to Uis. Red-crested Korhaan (Crested Bustard) Eupodotis ruficrista: Heard commonly in the bush, and seen very well at Mount Etjo and in Etosha National Park. Northern Black Korhaan Eupodotis afraoides: First encountered on the drive from Mount Etjo to Rundu and also seen near Spitzkoppe, but our best views were at Etosha, where we saw about a dozen. 13 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

14 JACANIDAE African Jacana Actophilornis africanus: Recorded at Mount Etjo, in most freshwater wetlands in the north-east, and at the waterhole at Namutoni. ROSTRATULIDAE Greater Painted Snipe Rostratula benghalensis: A good series of sightings this year, with two at Rundu sewage works on our first visit, seven at the sewage works on our second visit, and three in the eastern part of Etosha National Park. CHARADRIIDAE Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula: About 12 in the Walvis Bay area, and single birds at a waterhole near Namutoni and at Otjiwarongo sewage works. White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus: At least 100 in the Walvis Bay area. Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus: At least 100 of these pretty little plovers at the saline lagoons in Walvis Bay, and three at a waterhole in Etosha National Park. Kittlitz s Plover Charadrius pecuarius: Two at Mount Etjo, one at Rundu sewage works, one at the Swakop River and three at Fischer s Pan at Etosha. Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris: Small numbers at scattered locations throughout the tour. Grey Plover (Black-bellied Plover) Pluvialis squatarola: About 35 in the Walvis Bay area. Crowned Lapwing (Crowned Plover) Vanellus coronatus: Small numbers recorded at Mount Etjo, the Mahango Game Reserve and Hobatere, and fairly common at Etosha. Blacksmith Lapwing (Blacksmith Plover) Vanellus armatus: Fairly common at wetlands and around waterholes throughout the tour. African Wattled Lapwing (African Wattled Plover) Vanellus senegallus: Great views of a pair by the river near Divundu, and also a pair by the river at Ndhovu Lodge and a pair in the Mahango Game Reserve. Long-toed Lapwing (Long-toed Plover) Vanellus crassirostris: Seven flying along the river at Ndhovu Lodge and three or four during both our visits to the Mahango Game Reserve. The subspecies here is leucopterus which is confined to the southern half of the species range. This race shows far more white in the wing than the nominate race. SCOLOPACIDAE Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: About 120 in the Walvis Bay area. Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos: Odd ones at wetlands throughout. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: One flew over the river at Shakawe a rare bird in Namibia, well south of its normal wintering range. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Recorded in small numbers at the dams at Mount Etjo, Rundu sewage works, Walvis Bay, Etosha and Otjiwarongo sewage works. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: A dozen around Fischer s Pan at Etosha and one at Otjiwarongo sewage works. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Small numbers at wetlands throughout the tour. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: Much the commonest small wader at Walvis Bay, present in thousands. We also saw five at one of the dams at Mount Etjo and a single bird at Otjiwarongo sewage works. Little Stint Calidris minuta: Several hundred at Walvis Bay, and small numbers at several other localities. Sanderling Calidris alba: Several hundred in the Walvis Bay area. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Present in most wetland areas, with high counts of 25 at Mount Etjo, 40 at Rundu sewage works and 200 at Fischer s Pan. 14 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006

15 African Snipe (Ethiopian Snipe) Gallinago nigripennis: Good views of five at Rundu sewage works during our evening visit. Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica: About 10 in Walvis Bay. Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: Three at the salt works north of Swakopmund. This is a very scarce migrant in Namibia. The birds concerned belong to the long-billed eastern race orientalis. Common Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: About 20 in the Walvis Bay area. PHALAROPODIDAE Red-necked Phalarope (Northern Phalarope) Phalaropus lobatus: Great views of 18, mostly if not all adults, on the salt pans at Walvis Bay. This species is a regular visitor in very small numbers to south-west Africa. The origin of these birds is unknown, as no major wintering areas have been discovered in the Atlantic Ocean, and the nearest regular wintering area is in the northern Indian Ocean, off the Arabian Peninsula. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: About 300 in the Walvis Bay area, including a pair with two small chicks at the Swakop River, and a party of 17 at Fischer s Pan in Etosha National Park. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Small numbers at several wetlands, beginning with four at the dam at Mount Etjo. The largest concentration was at Fischer s Pan, where there were about 40. BURHINIDAE Spotted Thick-knee (Spotted Dikkop) Burhinus capensis: Great views of pairs on several occasions: at Mount Etjo, Erongo Wilderness Lodge, Hobatere and Etosha. Water Thick-knee (Water Dikkop) Burhinus vermiculatus: Distant views of one by the river at Ndhovu Lodge, and much closer views of a pair near the lodge at Shakawe. GLAREOLIDAE Burchell s Courser Cursorius rufus: Great views of several flocks totalling at least 200 individuals in the desert between Henties Bay and Uis. This was a remarkable concentration of these coursers, which can be hard to find. Temminck s Courser Cursorius temminckii: Great views of a pair and a juvenile coming in to drink at Rundu sewage works, and also good views of a pair near one of the waterholes in Etosha National Park. Double-banded Courser (Two-banded Courser) Rhinoptilus africanus: Several great views of this very attractive courser: on the drive to Hobatere, during our first night drive at Hobatere, and in Etosha National Park. Collared Pratincole (Red-winged Pratincole) Glareola pratincola: A few along the river at Ndhovu Lodge and Shakawe, and up to 150 in the Mahango Game Reserve. Black-winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni: Superb views of a flock of 200 at Klein Namutoni waterhole in Etosha National Park on 9 November, but only four there the next day. This species, which breeds on the steppes of western Asia and south-eastern Europe, has declined rapidly in recent decades and is now listed as near threatened by BirdLife International. The main wintering areas are in Natal. Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis: Good views of about ten of these attractive little pratincoles on rocks in the river near Divundu, and another ten flying over the river at Ndhovu Lodge. 15 Birdquest: Namibia & The Okavango 2006