Lesvos. th 16 th May Tour Report. Celtic Bird Tours

Transcription

1 9 th Lesvos th 16 th May 2002 Tour Report Celtic Bird Tours 84 Coity Road, Bridgend, CF31 1LT +44 [0]

2 Leaders Alan and Suzanne Davies Participants Peter Carmen Don Chaput Toni Chaput Fiona Grant Lesley Tuthill Dawn Humphries Frank Prior Julian Prior Day One Two groups left Gatwick and Manchester airports in the extremely early morning (UK time) to meet up at Mytilini airport on a gloriously sunny day. Whilst the Gatwick party waited a little while for the Manchester flight to catch up, we noted House Martins nesting under the terminal eaves and House Sparrows, though attempts were made to locate a Spanish Sparrow, nesting in the palm trees lining the car park. Also entertaining us were the first of many Crested Larks. Once the others had arrived, the group were preparing to board the minibus when Dawn pointed upwards to a Honey Buzzard flying close overhead giving superb although brief views as it flew on; disappearing over the terminal. We travelled in convoy behind the local agent Lena who guided us out of the town and then parted company as we headed off towards our base for the week in Skala Kallonis. En route, we stopped alongside the Kalloni Saltpans to scan through a flock of terns in which Alan picked out fast disappearing Pratincoles whilst the rest of the group enjoyed Whiskered and Whitewinged Black Terns before a Peregrine shot through the flock, scattering it. There was also a Spoonbill and a pair of Kentish Plovers scurrying on the bank. We then went for our first drive around the saltpans that were to become an almost daily haunt. The shallow rivers around the edge of the main saltpans themselves held good numbers of Little & Temminck s Stints, Ruff, Curlew Sandpipers in all manner of moult stages between grey to full red summer plumage, Squacco Herons, Little Egrets, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers. A flock of Greater Flamingos cast a pink wash over the far saltpans although the heat haze meant closer views would have to be obtained later to truly appreciate this bizarre species. On the main pans a Grey Heron stood sentinel over the small waders pecking the mud around him, these were mainly the species mentioned above but included a Common Sandpiper wagging its tail daintily. As we rounded a corner a Black Stork was flushed from the next field, flying slowly away on its powerful wings and Eurasian Bee-eaters could be heard ahead. Alan spotted two shapes sat on a telegraph wire and hurried the group on to get a closer look a pair of Red-Footed Falcons were hawking for insects and perching on the wires for a viewpoint giving fantastic views in the brilliant sunshine. We were now right beside the Bee-eater colony and birds were flying and perching on plants in all directions allowing their amazing colour palette to be admired by all. As we started back to the main road towards the hotel, a Black-Headed Bunting began singing from the top of a small tree showing its bright gold, chestnut and black plumage off to perfection. A Corn Bunting perched on a nearby telephone wire trying to compete. As we arrived outside the hotel, we were stunned by its wonderful location. The Kalloni Pool with its marshes and damp grassland was immediately outside the hotel entrance and viewable from the balconies of the first floor rooms. House Martins, House and Spanish Sparrows were all nesting against the hotel giving a great chance to compare the sparrow plumages. Time off birding was offered to allow settling in and a quick sleep to recover from the very early start, however some couldn t resist the draw of that habitat just outside and a combined balcony and roadside extra look was essential. Glossy Ibis, Black-winged Stilt, Wood Sandpiper, Garganey and Black-headed Wagtail were located easily. After the break and a quick late lunch, we went out to study the Pool and Beach in more detail. A Gullbilled Tern and Red-rumped Swallow flew over and were not seen by all, however Peter picked out a Eurasian Bittern in the reeds which stayed long enough for everyone to get good views through the telescopes and a Purple Heron kept its snake-like neck high above the reeds. Nightingale and Cetti s Warbler were heard but not seen and Shoveler, Teal and Little Grebe were popping in and out behind reeds and underwater teasingly. Little Bitterns made brief flights across the reed-bed before dropping in out of sight with the exception of a male which landed in almost full view in a tamarisk bush. A walk down to the beach added Sanderling, Yellow-legged Gull and the first of many Olivaceous Warblers skulking in a tamarisk and singing. After dinner, watching from their balcony, Fiona and Lesley were treated to a fly-past from a Barn Owl, a marvellous finish to an amazing day.

3 Day Two After an extremely long day yesterday, we started lightly with an optional 6.30am walk around the Pool and a brief drive to the East River mouth. The Pool had not changed much from the previous day although the Bittern could not be relocated and a Great White Egret showed itself in the furthest reeds briefly. Down at the river we found a Marsh Harrier quartering the fields while Black and White Storks were soaring in the distance. A Greenshank was found on the muddy margins of the river with small flocks of Wood and Curlew Sandpipers and Ruff. A Caspian Tern flew past with Common Terns and the air was full of the song of Black-headed Bunting, Corn Bunting, Crested Lark, Nightingale and the explosive burst of Cetti s Warbler. A Great Reed Warbler started its crunching song in a nearby tamarisk and showed well briefly, whilst a Reed Warbler sang further up the river for comparison. A scan of the bushes on the far side of the river produced a Stonechat and the much sought after Rufous Bush Robin which was quite distant and unfortunately dropped down out of sight before all had scoped it properly. We went back to the hotel for breakfast and to join those who had taken the chance for a lie-in to recover. Over breakfast, Alan obtained a tip about a Scops Owl roosting in a local school playground. Fortunately it was the Greek Easter holiday and the school was shut, allowing a small crowd of birders to gather in the playground without causing problems for teachers or pupils. The owl had already been located by a group arriving before us, however it was still surprisingly difficult to pick out due to its cryptic pattern, which almost matched the wrinkly bark of the tree it was in, and the small bunches of leaves hanging down which meant the bird was viewable from one point but disappeared if you were just a few feet further to one side. A great deal of shuffling was needed to ensure everyone saw the bird well. On westwards towards Parakila, we stopped beside a ruined minaret. A small culvert across the road had Red-rumped Swallows collecting mud in the puddle underneath it whilst Cirl Bunting perched and sang from a dead tree and a Hoopoe sat in an old Yew. A Black-eared Wheatear flitted onto a rock and sang briefly before flying over the ridge and a Long-legged Buzzard soared at the ridge-top. We also encountered our first Persian Squirrels here, in the same tree as the Hoopoe, slightly browner but just as fluffy as Red Squirrels are in the UK. Just around the corner, we pulled up at a valley known as Devil s Bridge and walked up a fairly steep hillside to a small chapel. On the hillside, our first Cretzschmar s Buntings were very mobile, although perching and singing at intervals, and were accompanied by Western Rock Nuthatch and Black-eared Wheatear showing very well. All these species were seen regularly during our stay whenever we were in rocky areas. Up at the chapel, a Blackcap sang from a bush and lizards and frogs of varying greens were seen whilst a family of Blue Tits flitted around. We carried on to our main target area, the monastery at Ipsalou. Situated on a large conical hill with wooded hillsides it is an obvious draw for migrants needing to pause and recuperate before carrying on across Europe. Pausing for lunch near the base of the hill we found Northern and Isabelline Wheatears whilst scanning the ridges surrounding us produced Short-toed Eagle, Raven and Peregrine, and a Hobby dashed over our heads. Walking up to the monastery itself, we found Rock Sparrows in the scree and as we were looking at these a Cinereous Bunting sang and perched on a rock down below us in full view. Subtly beautiful when compared to the gaudy Cretzschmar s flying further down the slope. As we entered the more wooded area of the hillside we encountered Woodchat and Red-backed Shrikes, Pied and Spotted Flycatchers, Icterine and Wood Warblers as well as Blue and Great Tits constantly moving through the scrub. Julian spotted a Golden Oriole down in the valley, which unfortunately flew into cover before being seen by all. A Little Owl perched asleep on the rocks above us and Turtle Doves purred in the oak trees on the lower slope. Suddenly, Alan picked out a Masked Shrike, one of the main targets, waiting to pounce on its prey from one of those oaks, strikingly black and white compared to the other shrikes seen today. As we wandered on up the slope a Goshawk circled below us gaining height for its onward journey to the mainland. Higher up by a series of drystone enclosures, an Orphean Warbler showed all too briefly before skulking away between the rocks. A Hoopoe, in contrast, flew backwards and forwards repeatedly taking food to its nest on the slope and showing very well. We climbed up to the monastery and discovered to our delight that Suzanne had doubled back for the minibus and driven it round the other side of the hill to the top, thus saving us the long walk downhill. On the drive back, we stopped at an area well-named by birders as the Grand Canyon. A Subalpine Warbler sang from a treetop and Crag Martins shot back and forth across the ravine. Alan heard an Olive-tree Warbler in the lower branches of an oak tree and, as we searched for that, an adult Sombre Tit flew out of the tree leaving its fledgling sitting begging for another meal. The warbler was seen briefly in the tree before it flew out and perched in a cow parsley plant giving much better views. We arrived back at the hotel in time for another lovely dinner. Some wandered out in the dying light and were rewarded with Night Herons flying in to the Pool to feed and Little Bitterns darting backwards and forwards in surprising numbers. Day Three This morning s optional early start saw us headed to the Inland Lake, a scrub- and reed-fringed pool with a reputation for turning up great birds. Driving across the West River grasslands, we spooked a Stone Curlew, which flew from near the road towards the back of the field. On the lane approaching the lake we pulled up alongside a bush that was reverberating to the song of the Nightingale secreted

4 within it, however, despite scrutinising the bush from all roadside angles, we couldn t see the bird itself. Over the next two mornings we repeated the process and saw it briefly on the ground beside the bush once, confirming the Nightingale s legendary invisibility. In contrast, the normally difficult Little Bitterns were perched on reeds and stumps at intervals all around the lake giving good chances to compare male and female plumages. One sat still less than two yards away as we talked to another birder beside his car. Several Night Herons of varying ages were roosting in a lakeside tamarisk bush. The reeds and scrub contained Reed, Sedge, Great Reed and Olivaceous Warblers, and a Barred Warbler, and flocks of swifts, swallows and martins skimmed the water s surface collecting insects as they hatched. Excitement flared as not one, but two Little Crakes were found weaving their way through the bases of the reeds on the far bank, showing beautifully, and they remained in view until our growing hunger called us away to breakfast. Two Turtle Doves and a Little Owl were perched on telephone wires alongside the road back to the hotel. After breakfast, we set off to the saltpans. Our previous visit had been necessarily brief, as we had all had a long journey, therefore this was our first chance to explore them fully. The same species were in the streams along the roadside, although the Flamingos had disappeared from the main pans, and a Spoonbill flew overhead as we continued on, past the Bee-eater colony, to the main working areas of the pans where the horizon was dominated by a mountain of salt. We parked the bus and walked along the track, surrounded by a strange dusty landscape with spiky grass tufts and small spiky bushes. An unfamiliar song began nearby and scanning the tops of the bushes we found a Rufous Bush Robin perched and singing with its tail being cocked and fanned alternately. For some minutes it continued this performance, occasionally swapping bushes, until Alan called the group over to look at a Tawny Pipit he had found on the road back towards the bus. A Short-toed Lark was singing overhead and eventually landed on the road in front of us allowing good views before another birder walking through flushed it. We continued on past the salt mountain and noticed a small flock of Collared Pratincoles hawking for insects over the saltworks. Unfortunately, these didn t work their way any closer to us so we moved off. Crossing a small river, we met another group of birders who advised us that there was a small group of Red-throated Pipits feeding in the tussock grass in the sheepfield. We went over to some others already watching them and added our admiration of their subtly beautiful plumage. Many Yellow Wagtails were feeding in the same area; all the males were of the Black-headed race local to the area. The Flamingos were located on another saltpan beyond this field and were quite restless, shuffling on foot and in flight between different areas of the pool, showing their amazing legs and necks and shocking pink flight feathers. Another Rufous Bush Robin was singing here, amazingly from an old abandoned wheelchair, which presumably had been used at some time to transport food bags for the sheep. Now however, it clearly provided a superior song post. On the drive back to the main road, a number of terns were seen resting on an exposed mud bank in the main pans and a clear comparison could be made between the sizes and plumages of Gull-billed, Common, Whiskered, White-winged Black and Little Terns. We headed East next to an area known to birders as Derbyshire, presumably for its pale rocky outcrop, and pulled into the edge of a pinewood overlooking the lake alongside the outcrop. Heat haze was quite strong here though we could clearly make out lots of Ruddy Shelduck and a pair of Mute Swans on the lake and a Great White Egret in the marsh feeding the lake. As we ate our lunch, Blue and Great Tits flew backwards and forwards to their nests in the tree trunks and Western Rock Nuthatch and Black-eared Wheatear were calling and displaying from the ridge above us. A female Serin was seen flying into her nest and could be partially seen through the telescope as she settled down to brood her eggs or young. A Long-legged Buzzard circled lazily over the far hills until chased off by a Common Buzzard. After lunch we drove on up to Achladeri in search of another Lesvos speciality, Kruper s Nuthatch. It was refreshingly cool in the Stone Pine forest after the very sunny afternoon outside and a fairly relaxed mood took over most of the group who sat and waited for an alert from those searching for the nuthatch. One was sighted hanging from a pine cone halfway up a tree before it flew further into the forest and vanished. As we continued the hunt, a Woodlark began to serenade us from a clearing and the scratchy song of Subalpine Warbler led us to good views of a male bird displaying in the top of a pine. A Short-toed Treecreeper crept up a tree just off the clearing, giving its cheerful song occasionally just to prove its identity! Finally we caught up with longer views of the nuthatch and most of the group managed to see this one. As we wandered back out of the forest a group of White Storks was seen gaining height over the mountain and Alpine Swifts flew above the track. Our first glimpse of the local race of Jay was of one flying across the road in front of the bus on the drive back. Better views than this would be needed to see the dark crown, which makes it seem so bizarre to UK birders. As we came back down to the coast, we stopped to reward ourselves with a cold drink in a little beachside café in the hamlet of Ancient Pyrrha, where a Blue Tit flew in and out of its nest in a hollow roof beam less that two feet above Toni s head. We finally dragged ourselves away from this idyllic place to return to the hotel in time for dinner and were surprised en route to see a Rook feeding at the roadside with Hooded Crows, as Rooks are extremely rare on Lesvos.

5 Day Four Another trip to the Inland Lake early this morning produced a good collection of the same species as yesterday with a Marsh Warbler and a male Common Redstart thrown in for good measure. Two female Red-footed Falcons watched us sleepily from a telegraph wire before stretching and fidgeting as the morning began to warm up. On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a rocky ridge for views of a family of Western Rock Nuthatch but unfortunately not the hoped for Sombre Tit. After breakfast we headed in a new direction over the mountains to the North Coast at Petra. En route we pulled up at a viewpoint looking down towards Petra and were treated to another Peregrine flypast and a purring Turtle Dove. Various soaring raptors along the way were Common Buzzards and Short-toed Eagles. At Petra we stopped on the beachfront to scan two rocky islands just offshore. Shags flew and perched at the bottom whilst Alpine Swifts and Jackdaws flew around the tops. A pair of Mediterranean Gulls doubled our gull species to date along with the now familiar Yellow-legged Gulls. Looking East along the coast to our next destination, Molivos, we saw a falcon flying along the coast. It s jizz of very loose wings and its all dark plumage confirmed it was an Eleonora s Falcon so we hurried off to Molivos in the hope of a closer look. Unfortunately, when we arrived there was no sign of the falcon. We set up our telescopes by the bus in a layby overlooked by a scrub-covered hillside and the keenest members searched for the target species, Ruppell s Warbler, whilst the others delighted in the Cretzschmar s Buntings singing and chasing each other on the cliff-edge just below the road. Ruppell s Warbler was located on a bush-top in typical sylvia fashion with a cocked tail and singing not far from a male Cirl Bunting sat on a rock. A sighting of Blue Rock Thrush on the cliff behind us caused a frenzy of activity as Peter and Alan clambered right to the cliff-edge to try and see the thrush, which had dropped out of sight from the road. They were rewarded with a couple of brief glimpses before they regained their senses and came back from the brink. We drove up to the Castle perched right above the town to have lunch and took a detour for ice-creams in the castle café. Lizards were basking on the castle walls completely ignoring the castle s visitors passing within arms reach of them as Red-rumped Swallows delicately picked insects out of the air. Driving back from the castle we finally caught up with one of those strange Jays perched on the top of a telegraph pole. Studying it carefully; it was strikingly different to the British race with a black rather than white crown casting a completely odd appearance on such a familiar bird. Back at the Ruppell s site, we parked a little higher up the hillside, where we had been tipped off about a male Ruppell s Warbler patrolling a small car park within his territory and allowing really close views. The tip was good and soon two different males could be seen doing vocal battle across the car park. We next went to a valley leading up to a small reservoir and strolled along enjoying the afternoon sunshine. Common Whitethroat and Whinchat were good additions here, but pride of place goes to the Orphean Warbler, which, contrary to its skulking nature, sat for some time in full view in a bush just feet from the path permitting even those who hadn t carried their scopes time to get good views. As the afternoon was still young, we returned to the sheepfield behind the saltpans where the Collared Pratincoles were reported to be roosting. At least three were found together on the ground and they permitted a fairly close approach. After yesterday s efforts to find a Short-toed Lark, it seemed we were now destined to find them easily whenever we came back to the saltpans as they were singing and scurrying across the ground at regular intervals. The wheelchair-bound bush robin was still singing from his seat but the Red-throated Pipits had continued on their way to the Arctic. We went over to the fence bordering the pool behind the field for a closer look at the Flamingos. It is such a storybook and wildlife documentary image that to see a flamingo in the flesh doesn t seem real, let alone hundreds of them! Shifting their feet all the time to stir up mud and small creatures to be filtered in their amazing beaks before taking off in small skeins and flying around in circles, only to land again close to where they left. This pool also held Ruddy Shelduck and Avocets and a Stone Curlew ran around in short bursts on the bank. Driving back by the first pans there was a summer-plumaged Grey Plover on a small muddy bank in the main pool, another new bird for the trip as the evening fell and we returned for dinner at the hotel. Day Five Our enthusiasm for the Inland Lake drew us there again this morning before breakfast and, although no new species were added, such birds as Little Crake and Little Bittern showing so well can t be given up for the sake of a lie-in! After breakfast we headed West again past the minaret and Devil s Bridge heading for Skala Eressos. Roadside sightings included Honey Buzzard, Short-toed Eagle and Red-footed Falcon. We stopped at a ford where we were treated to great views of a Nightingale singing from just inside a fairly open willow. We walked down into the town and Alan and Peter heard a River Warbler singing. On the beach, a continuous flow of small parties of Yelkouan Shearwaters skimmed the sea as they travelled between feeding sites. We continued to watch these as we took cover in a beachfront café from a sudden downpour, the first not-sunny weather of the trip! Whilst waiting for the rain to stop, we saw another Eleonora s Falcon come in off the sea, evidently changing it s mind about flying to Turkey in the rain. On the rocky island offshore, Jackdaws, Shags and a Common Kestrel looked equally surprised by the weather. After a cup of coffee, we headed on up into the mountains on a tiny back road which winds its way to Sigri.

6 Heading up the road, we stopped at regular intervals to scan the fields and hillsides. Where a tiny stream ran down as the border of two fields, we picked up a Sombre Tit flitting around and perching occasionally on the fence, giving the best views yet for the trip. Higher up Peregrines and Ravens were seen and Cirl and Cinereous Buntings were singing and hopping between rocks. We came down a beautiful valley to park and have lunch at a conveniently scrubby riverside where visible migration of passerines was taking place. Whilst we were eating, Blackcaps, Icterine and Orphean Warblers, Lesser and Common Whitethroats passed through. A little further down the track we came to an area where winter rains had washed away an old bridge and over the river Red-rumped Swallows and Crag Martins flew so close to us standing in the ford that the movement of the air over their wings was audible. A Lesser Grey Shrike perched on a fence, complementing the now common Woodchat and Red-backed Shrikes seen on most roadsides. We finally arrived in Sigri mid-afternoon and paused at another café before heading to a ford on the other side of the village. On the way we stopped to look at a small flock of kestrels, a reasonable sign that they would be Lessers as Common Kestrels are usually solitary. A closer look confirmed this as the subtle plumage differences were studied. A flock of apparently pure and wild Rock Doves flew down to feed in the field the kestrels were hunting over. The nest of a Penduline Tit hung over the river a little way down from the ford and we waited patiently for the bird to return, scopes poised. So quietly were we waiting that we were shocked when a Little Bittern was spotted having walked up to a couple of yards behind us, right out into the middle of the ford. Thus distracted, the Penduline Tit slipped into the nest seen only by a few and the wait became more intense knowing the bird was in the nest. It paused nicely on its way out allowing the bandit mask to be admired before shooting off downstream. After such a show, we headed home by the faster road feeling very satisfied with another brilliant day. However, things were about to improve as Fiona spotted a Blue Rock Thrush sitting on a rock just below the road near Ipsalou monastery and a quick bit of reversing from Suzanne allowed us all superb views of the bird that had been in such a hurry yesterday. A perfect end to birding that day, making it no problem as the storm that had been trying to get started on and off all day finally won and we drove home in thunder. Tonight was Greek Night at the hotel so during and after dinner there was local dancing and singing in the dining room and depending on our varying tastes, some of the group stayed to watch and others slipped away for an early night. Day Six After three mornings starting with the Inland Lake, it was time for a change of scene and we headed down to the East River for our dawn walk today. Serenaded by the now familiar duet of Black-headed Bunting and Olivaceous Warbler, we scanned the banks and scrub collecting the usual stints, sandpipers and herons. A Gull-billed Tern flew close overhead on its way upriver accompanied by Common and Whiskered Terns, although it suddenly clicked that we had not seen any Whitewinged Black Terns since Day four. Migration in action, fuelled on by the drying pools on the saltpans and outside the hotel which had also meant the two Purple Herons frequenting Kalloni Pool had been seen circling around the pool calling yesterday never to be seen again. Driving up the river, Lesley saw a Middle Spotted Woodpecker fly up to a telegraph pole and vanish behind it, so we waited a few minutes before it flew out across the field and out of sight. Alan had received details of a possible Common Rock Thrush near the Grand Canyon, so we set off after breakfast to follow this up. Yesterday s rain also meant a chance of a good fall of migrants up at Ipsalou Monastery so this was the ideal direction to be heading. Patient scanning produced a Blue Rock Thrush on a high crag but no sign of its multicoloured cousin. Crag Martins were whizzing past and a Marsh Warbler scuttled around in a pile of dead twigs singing softly at intervals. An Olive-tree Warbler was being typically awkward in staying hidden whilst taunting us with its song from a nearby tree. We hoped for better luck at the monastery and headed off to try. A fall had definitely taken place due to the storm and the wooded slopes were full of Blackcaps and Wood and Willow Warblers. On the scree below Isabelline and Northern Wheatears, Cretzschmar s and Cinereous Buntings and Rock Sparrows were hopping around and the Hoopoe was still working hard to feed its chicks. A Sombre Tit showed well in a partly dead oak tree and large numbers of Spotted Flycatchers were all around. Masked, Woodchat and Red-backed Shrikes hunted the hillside whilst all three species of buzzard and Short-toed Eagles flew over the ridges beyond. No exotic species found, we went to have lunch in the Monastery grounds, watched over by the Persian Squirrels peering out of gaps in the stonework of the walls and surrounded by cats, either feral or belonging to the monks. Exciting news reached us here, in discussions with other birders passing through, of a Caspian Plover at the saltpans. For those of us with a twitching instinct, this was torture, as we were going first to the Petrified Forest for a bit of sightseeing. The Forest is a collection of fossilised trees standing (and some lying) on the hillside just down the road towards Sigri. Although interesting, the site was fairly small and didn t take long to look around so we were soon dashing off to the Saltpans. We paused briefly at the hotel to drop off Toni and Don, who were still jet-lagged, and to meet up with Lesley and Dawn, who had taken the day off birding to go cycling and looking at the plantlife. Whilst waiting to connect with them, we slipped into Skala Kalloni Harbour to have a look at the White Pelican that had followed a fishing boat in one day and decided to take up permanent residence on the quayside, begging from tourists!

7 Speeding (relatively!) past areas we had scanned in detail on every previous visit, we headed straight out to the sheepfield near the flamingos favourite pans. Quite a crowd had gathered and an idiotic photographer was driving on the field circling the bird closer and closer, causing it distress, totally contrary to all birding ethics. Fortunately the bird just kept shifting its position and didn t fly away, and the photographer eventually responded to all the arms being waved angrily at him and backed off. This sort of irresponsible behaviour not only threatens the health of the bird, which was exhausted after its journey and needing to rest and feed, but it also could have scared the bird away, depriving other birders yet to arrive of the pleasure of studying a beautiful and very scarce species. The Caspian Plover was in full adult plumage, and showed well the chestnut breast band before settling down in the grass to roost. This was the first rare migrant of the week, which had been surprisingly quiet in the number of species passing through compared to previous years records, although not all birds turn up in any one spring a few more would have been expected most years. Having spent some time admiring the plover, we went over to the Flamingos, passing Kentish Plovers scurrying in the grass. The flamingos seemed even more restless than usual and the shifting shades of pink were wonderful. A good selection of waders was spread around the pool edges and shallows and Short-toed Larks were in the grass and the air. Going back through the saltpans at a more sedate pace we found two Red-footed Falcons hunting from telegraph wires over the Bee-eater colony again. After dinner, most of us wandered outside the hotel to look at the Little Owl that had been seen by various individuals of the group over previous nights as it perched ready to hunt moths or earthworms from the statue in the middle of the hotel lawn. Day Seven An inevitable gloom over the prospect of leaving this wonderful place tomorrow had started to creep into the group mood so Alan suggested we undertake a bird race of sorts and try to see as many species as possible in the day. Thus challenged we were quick to get started with a dawn visit to the East River, via the pelican, and a good look at Kalloni Pool producing 39 species including a trip tick with Ruddy Turnstone on the spit at the river-mouth. Scanning the Pool from the roadside whilst waiting for everyone to come down to the bus, Fiona and birders from another group all noticed a starling species fly up from the reeds to land on a telegraph wire. A quick examination confirmed it as Common Starling, although Spotless was debated. Unfortunately it took off just as Peter arrived, and by the time the group was assembled it had vanished behind the hotel. The most outstanding number of species seen in an area within easy reach was definitely most likely at the saltpans, not to mention the chance of another look at that marvellous Caspian Plover! Straight after breakfast we headed there, delighted to find the Red-footed Falcons still present as well as the Caspian Plover. Over at the flamingo pool, all the usual suspects were showing well including Avocet and Stone Curlew and some Red-throated Pipits had been found, either the same individuals as previously or another group passing through. The day total moved up to 61 Species so far! We went back to the hotel for lunch, dropping off those who fancied a rest afternoon before tomorrow s journey and picking up those who had already rested in the morning. Lunch was eaten beside one of two pools, the Kalloni Pool for those who can t stop birding to eat and the swimming pool for those less obsessed. The obsessed were rewarded with a Collared Pratincole flying across the Pool before going out of sight between some houses. In the afternoon, we went to Derbyshire and, after scanning the Mute Swans and Ruddy Shelduck still present, we took a walk up a track along the edge of the Stone Pinewoods. A Short-toed Eagle soared in the distance and a Cuckoo and lots of Subalpine Warblers were in the woodland edge. A Stonechat flitted on the tops of the scrub and Linnets and Serins were heard and seen. A skulking warbler triggered interest and turned out to be another Orphean. A Woodlark began singing and was tracked down to see its fluttering song flight. As a possible site for Kruper s Nuthatch we struck out but another was round the corner for later in the afternoon. As we were returning to the bus, a Hobby flew into view and Alpine Swifts were picked out of the swift flock. An Eleonora s Falcon topped the prize bird list all too briefly as it hurried on its way along the ridge. A new bird for the trip list here was a Pheasant heard calling. The day total had now climbed to 89 species. Still trying for Kruper s Nuthatch, we went up into the hills to Achladeri. In the first clearing in the woods we heard Goldcrests, another trip tick, and Julian spotted a Honey Buzzard flying across the bit of open sky. Intensive searching began again that produced another new bird in the form of Long-tailed Tit as well as good views of Short-toed Treecreeper. The target bird took a little longer, but eventually we all had good views as one flitted between, and ran up and down, several trees right beside the path. Only five species added here but all top-notch views. The heat was now intense and, as we were passing Skala Kalloni headed for the Inland Lake, Frank and Julian decided to take a break and we dropped them off en route. Unfortunately the Little Crakes had disappeared and we had to content ourselves with Night Herons, Great Reed, Marsh, Sedge, Garden and Olivaceous Warblers all showing well. (It s tough birding on Lesvos!) Moving on towards Parakila, we stopped at a new reservoir tucked between the coast road and a large cliff. On the lower slopes, Western Rock Nuthatches scuttled about and higher up we picked out a Blue Rock Thrush and Crag Martins. Turtle Doves flew across and back in display and purred from the oak trees, disturbing the pair of Woodchat Shrikes perched there.

8 A Jay and Cirl Bunting added to the atmosphere as we hunted again for a good look at an Olive-tree Warbler singing nearby. After a frustrating hunt, producing only a few glimpses, we moved on to the Lower Potamia Valley. Driving up the bottom of the valley, we saw our first Sparrowhawk that couldn t be persuaded it was Levantine, however hard we stared at it! A little further up, a pale patch on the cliff ahead resolved into a perched Long-legged Buzzard, which let us all have a good detailed look at it through the telescopes, admiring its warm orange head and breast. Parking the bus, we carried on up the valley passing very old olive orchards. In these we found Masked Shrike and Middle Spotted Woodpecker and could hear Olive-tree Warbler. By this point the hunt for Olive-tree warblers was left to the most dedicated as others relaxed and enjoyed the occasional flight of the shrike and woodpecker as the shrike demonstrated its hovering abilities. Time called us on as we had agreed to meet the others at the hotel at approximately seven-thirty, so we headed back and were getting out of the bus when an acquaintance of Peter s shouted at us asking if we d seen the plover. Fortunately we didn t just assume he meant the Caspian Plover and answer, yes, but asked, which plover. His reply sent a wave of panic through us as we scrambled back into the bus at record speed. A Spur-winged Plover had been found at Derbyshire where we had been earlier that afternoon. A rapid drive found us on the roadside overlooking the lake and scanning the far bank. Great relief as the bird was quickly found running around and feeding on the grassy edge of the lake. Another highly localised bird that was a delight to look at, and a privilege to be able to see. Guilt meant we couldn t stay long and we dashed back to the hotel, pausing to identify Spoonbill on the way. Apologies all round as we were around twenty minutes late and arrived unwashed at the table having abandoned all birding paraphernalia in the bus. A call-over and a quick tally concluded that our daylist was 106 species and our trip list was 158, very pleasing. A visit to the hotel garden after dinner took the daylist to its final total of 107 with the addition of the Little Owl. Day Eight Sadly, all good things have to come to an end and with the prospect of a long journey our early morning walk was just outside the hotel, around the pool. Squacco and Night Herons fished alongside Little Egrets and even some Little Bitterns were co-operative, sitting out in the open, a treat previously reserved for the Inland Lake. Black-headed Wagtail, Glossy Ibis, Black-winged Stilt and Wood Sandpiper fed close to the road and between the reeds swam Eurasian Teal, Northern Shoveler and Garganey. A River Warbler started its reeling song from a tamarisk and the ubiquitous Black-headed and Corn Buntings added to the melody. The House and Spanish Sparrows were busy feeding their nestlings and kept teasing us that they might be warblers as they landed in the reeds and grasses. The warblers themselves put on a good show as though they knew we were going to need to savour this for some time and Great Reed, Cetti s and Olivaceous all showed and sang. All too soon it was time for breakfast and then we were all packing our luggage into a taxi and piling into the bus headed for the airport. We paused briefly by the saltpans, to say farewell to the Kentish Plovers, Little Stints, Curlew Sandpipers, Ruff and Stone Curlews, and then by Derbyshire, where we saw Black Stork, Mute Swan and Ruddy Shelduck but unfortunately no sign of the Spur-winged Plover. We said our goodbyes at Mytilini airport as we split into the Manchester and Gatwick queues and headed home having had a fantastic, unforgettable holiday. Systematic list of birds 1/ Little Grebe 2/ Yelkouan Shearwater 3/ Shag 4/ White Pelican 5/ Eurasian (Common) Bittern 6/ Little Bittern 7/ Night Heron 8/ Squacco Heron 9/ Little Egret 10/ Great White Egret 11/ Grey Heron 12/ Purple Heron 13/ Black Stork 14/ White Stork 15/ Glossy Ibis 16/ Spoonbill 17/ Greater Flamingo 18/ Mute Swan 19/ Ruddy Shelduck 20/ Northern Shelduck 21/ Eurasian Teal 22/ Garganey 23/ Shoveler

9 24/ Honey Buzzard 25/ Short-toed Eagle 26/ Marsh Harrier 27/ Goshawk 28/ Common Sparrowhawk 29/ Common Buzzard 30/ Long-legged Buzzard 31/ Lesser Kestrel 32/ Common Kestrel 33/ Red-footed Falcon 34/ Hobby 35/ Eleonora s Falcon 36/ Peregrine 37/ Pheasant 38/ Little Crake 39/ Moorhen 40/ Coot 41/ Black-winged Stilt 42/ Eurasian Avocet 43/ Stone Curlew 44/ Collared Pratincole 45/ Little Ringed Plover 46/ Ringed Plover 47/ Kentish Plover 48/ Caspian Plover 49/ Grey Plover 50/ Spur-winged Plover 51/ Sanderling 52/ Little Stint 53/ Temminck s Stint 54/ Curlew Sandpiper 55/ Ruff 56/ Greenshank 57/ Wood Sandpiper 58/ Common Sandpiper 59/ Ruddy Turnstone 60/ Mediterranean Gull 61/ Little Gull 62/ Yellow-legged Gull 63/ Gull-billed Tern 64/ Caspian Tern 65/ Common Tern 66/ Little Tern 67/ Whiskered Tern 68/ White-winged Black Tern 69/ Rock Dove 70/ Woodpigeon 71/ Collared Dove 72/ Turtle Dove 73/ Common Cuckoo 74/ Barn Owl 75/ Scops Owl 76/ Little Owl 77/ Common Swift 78/ Alpine Swift 79/ Eurasian Bee-eater 80/ Hoopoe 81/ Middle Spotted Woodpecker 82/ Short-toed Lark 83/ Crested Lark 84/ Woodlark 85/ Sand Martin 86/ Crag Martin 87/ Barn Swallow 88/ Red-rumped Swallow 89/ House Martin 90/ Tawny Pipit 91/ Red-throated Pipit

10 92/ Black-headed Wagtail 93/ Blue-headed Wagtail 94/ Rufous Bush Robin 95/ Nightingale 96/ Common Redstart 97/ Whinchat 98/ Stonechat 99/ Isabelline Wheatear 100/ Northern Wheatear 101/ Black-eared Wheatear 102/ Blue Rock Thrush 103/ Blackbird 104/ Cetti s Warbler 105/ River Warbler 106/ Sedge Warbler 107/ Marsh Warbler 108/ Reed Warbler 109/ Great Reed Warbler 110/ Olivaceous Warbler 111/ Olive-tree Warbler 112/ Icterine Warbler 113/ Subalpine Warbler 114/ Ruppell s Warbler 115/ Orphean Warbler 116/ Barred Warbler 117/ Lesser Whitethroat 118/ Common Whitethroat 119/ Garden Warbler 120/ Blackcap 121/ Wood Warbler 122/ Chiffchaff 123/ Willow Warbler 124/ Goldcrest 125/ Spotted Flycatcher 126/ Pied Flycatcher 127/ Long-tailed Tit 128/ Sombre Tit 129/ Blue Tit 130/ Great Tit 131/ Kruper s Nuthatch 132/ Western Rock Nuthatch 133/ Short-toed Treecreeper 134/ Penduline Tit 135/ Golden Oriole 136/ Red-backed Shrike 137/ Lesser Grey Shrike 138/ Woodchat Shrike 139/ Masked Shrike 140/ Jay 141/ Jackdaw 142/ Rook 143/ Hooded Crow 144/ Raven 145/ Common Starling 146/ House Sparrow 147/ Spanish Sparrow 148/ Rock Sparrow 149/ Chaffinch 150/ Serin 151/ Greenfinch 152/ Goldfinch 153/ Linnet 154/ Cirl Bunting 155/ Cinereous Bunting 156/ Cretzschmar s Bunting 157/ Black-headed Bunting 158/ Corn Bunting

11 Other wildlife seen included: Persian Squirrel Scarce Swallowtail Swallowtail European Pond Terrapin Spur-thighed Tortoise Balkan Wall Lizard Balkan Green Lizard Worm Snake Green Toad Marsh Frog