Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Cotton Fabrics with Weft Yarns Produced by Different Spinning Systems

Iranian Polymer Journal /Volume I1 Number 2 (2004 99-106 1026-126512002 Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Cotton Fabrics with Weft Yarns Produced by Different Spinning Systems Akbar Khoddami t('), Maryam Siavashi2, S. Abdolkarim Hosseini Ravandi l and Mohammad Morshed l (l) Textile Department, Isfahan University of Technology, Isfahan 84154, I.R. Iran (2) institute of Standard and Industrial Research, Isfahan, I.R. Iran Received l5 May 2001 : accepted 30 April 2002 ABSTRACT Enzymatic hydrolysis of cotton fabrics with different weft yarns has been studied. The weft yarns used were commercial cotton yarns produced by the carded, combed, open-end, air-jet and core-spun systems. The effects of cellulases hydrolysis on different fabrics were investigated by measuring the weight loss, the amount of glucose released and the breaking load of weft yarns. The results showed that the weight loss and concentration of glucose in hydrolysis vary with the increase of yarn hairiness. Loss of breaking load in shorter treatment times was related to hairiness of weft yams but in longer enzymatic hydrolysis times, strength loss was affected by the amount of glucose released. Key Words: enzymatic hydrolysis, cellulase, spinning system, open-end, core-spun INTRODUCTION In recent years, there has been increasing interest in the use of enzymes to produce special finishing effects on a variety of textile substrates. This interest stems in part from the absence of environmental problems associated with enzymatic process ana effluents. The enzymatic process has also several advantages over the chemical reagents with similar effects, some of these advantages are : -under mild conditions of temperature and pressure. specific reactions easily take place, resulting in saving time and energy, -since enzymes can be applied in continuous processes, they appear to be more economical, and -enzymes behave highly specific in reactions and when employed, the processes appear to be more controllable. Therefore enzymes can be applied in specific treatments El]. The impetus for recent activities originates from advances in biotechnology, which have facilitated the production of new enzymes with more specific catalytic activity, with better defined activity profiles than those previously available [2]. During the past two decades, enzymatic treatments have been a focus of interest for cellulosic fabric finishing. Cellulase is increasingly used in cotton finishing. The term biopolishing or biofinishing has been chosen to describe a novel finishing ( ) To whom correspondence should be addressed, E-mail. khoddami@cc.iut.ac it 99

Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Couon Fabrics with Well Yams Produced treatment of cellulosic fabric. The process is an enzymatic process by which a prepared solution of cellulase hydrolyzes the cotton under controlled conditions. T he concept of biopolishing was originated in Japan in 1988 [3]. Intensive research has been carried out in this field and it is shown that biopolishing can improve the softness and surface properties of cellulosic fabrics [4-12]. The effects of fabric structure and characteristics of yarn (i.e., twist and linear density) on the rate of enzymatic hydrolysis of cellulosic fabrics have been investigated [6, I I ]. However, literature review has not shown any report on the effects of yarns produced using different spinning systems on enzymatic hydrolysis of cotton fabric. In this study we evaluate the enzymatic hydrolysis for yarns spun by different spinning systems, such as: carded, combed, open-end, Murata jet spinning (MJS) and core-spun. EXPERIMENTAL Our investigation included five plain-woven fabrics with constant yarn densities of 16 and 25 the (thread)icm for weft and warp yarns, respectively. The warp yarn was cottonfpolyester(50/50) with a linear density of 26/1 tex. Specifications of the weft yarns are summarized in Table I. The difference was that the weft yarns with linear density of 28/1 tex had different irregularity values and hairiness. These yarns were used in previous works [13-16]. The fabrics were coded with the spinning names. Gray fabric samples were desized, scoured and bleached and then treated with cellulase. The enzymes used were all commercial acid cellulase named Primafast 100, supplied by Genecor International, Inc. All other chemicals were of analytical grade obtained from Merck Company. The hydrolysis conditions are shown in Table 2. Hydrolysis was carried on a Ahiba Polymat Machine. A number of 25 steels balls were added to each bath for higher mechanical action. At the end of a reaction the enzymes were deactivated by addition of a solution of 1 g/l Na 2CO5 at 0 'C for 10 min with L :R=20 :1. Finally the fabrics were washed with warm and cold water and then they were air-dried. The effects of hydrolysis were studied by measuring the weight loss of fabrics, amount of glucose Table 1. Properties of cotton yams used as weft. Type of yam Carded Combed Open-end MJS Core-spun Property Cotton content (%) 100 100 100 100 44 Actual count (tex) 2. 2.88 2.39 28.54 28.25 CV of count (%) 3.08 1.54 3.66 1.09 1.43 Unevenness (CV%) 16.41 9.82 14.56 11.13. Index (I) 2.18 1.31 1.94 1.48 1.03 Thin places (-50%) 1 0 2 0 (per km) Thick places (+50%) 23 0 4 0 0 (per km) Neps (+200%) 5 0 19 1 0 (per km) 6.61 6.19 6.24 5.2 4.84 100 Ironton Polymer Journal / Volume 11 N rmber 2 (2002)

Khaddami A. et al. released and breaking load of weft yarns. The weight loss was determined by weighing the samples before and after the enzymatic treatment. Before weighing the fabrics were dried at 105 'C for 4 h. The concentration of reducing sugars as glucose in the hydrolysis bath was determined by the following method [l, 12, 1]: Dinitro salicylic acid (DNS) was added into liquid samples of cellulase reaction mixture (reference samples were used in the same parallel ways) in the flasks. All flasks were kept in boiling water for 10 min. After this boiling period the flasks were cooled and the absorbancy measurements were made in a Bosch & Lomb spectrophotometer at 600 nm, then the concentration of reducing sugars was determined by using a standard curve. The breaking load of weft yams was measured using a Zwick tensile tester model 1446 based on the ASTM standard test method D-2256 [18]. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION In Figure 1, the percentage of weight loss is plotted against cellulase treatment times. Table 3 shows that the relationship between weight loss and reaction times is linear with a high regression coefficient. Analysis of variance on these data with a 95 percent confidence interval under F-test and with Duncan multiple-range test [19] shows that weight loss of samples arranged in the increasing order of magnitude were as follow: carded > open-end > combed > core-spun > MIS. Since all specifications of fabric samples except 1=30 10 R2-0.90 A B 5 5.4 5.8 6.2 6.6 10 5.4 5.8 6.2 6.6 5.4 5.8 82 6.6 10 C 1.240 Figure 1. Weight loss as a function of treatment times. R2=0.5 5.4 5.8 6.2 6.6 -fir E Iranian Polymer Journal/ Volume 11 Number 2 (2002) 101

Fnzymodic Hydrolysis of Cotton Fabrics with Weft Yams Produced Table 2. The hydrolysis conditions. Cellulase (g/l) 2 ph (sodium acetate buffer) 5 Non-ionic welting agent (Tween 0.5 85) (gwl) Liquor ratio 20 :1 Temperature ( " C) 50 Treatment time (min) 20, 40, 80 and 160 for their weft yarns are similar, therefore for interpretation of the results, the analyses of specification of weft yams have mainly been considered. The results show that the hairiness of yarn samples plays the most important role in the weight loss due to hydrolysis. It appears that the weight loss of samples is in good agreement with the sequence of fuzz density on the surface of weft yams. According to the Table I the hairiness of samples is arranged as follows: carded > open-end > combed > MJS > core-spun Figure 2 shows the linear relationship between the weight loss and hairiness in the various treatment times. As shown in this figure, as sample hairiness increases, the weight loss also increases and this relationship is almost linear. The measurement of glucose concentration released in the hydrolysis bath was the second factor used for comparing the hydrolysis ratio of samples. The results of these experiments are shown in Figure 3. The statistical studies of these data [19] indicate that the amount of glucose released increased with prolonging the treatment times. As shown in Figure 3, the behaviour of core-spun yarn is particular, in that most amount of glucose has been released during the first 30 min of hydrolysis. By measuring the concentration of glucose released in hydrolysis bath, the following order was found: core-spun > carded > MJS > open-end > combed As shown above the amount of glucose released is not in agreement with the sequence of hairiness of samples. This sequence might be due to the arrangement of fibres in different weft yarn samples. The amount of glucose released for carded, open-end and combed samples are in good agreement with their hairiness but the amount of glucose released by MJS spun yarn, despite of the lower density of fuzz on its surface, is more than that of open-end and combed samples. This may be due to the fact that there is no twist in a MJS spun yarn. It is clear that the yarn with low level of twist or without twist is more penetrable. Table 3 shows linear relationship between the fabric weight loss and the amount of glucose released with high R2 value. Therefore, those factors, which affect the amount of glucose release, will also affect the weight loss of samples. The weight loss and amount of glucose released for core-spun yam is not in good agreement. It has been found by some statistical studies carried out in 1998 that the weight loss of core-spun and MJS samples are identical [19]. By measuring the yarn diameter by the same worker, it also became evident Table 3. Correlation between hydrolysis characteristics (weight loss, amount of glucose released), treatment time and breaking strength. Rz Between samples Carded Combed Open-end MJS Core-spun Weight loss and treatment times 0.90 0.94 0.91 0.96 0.95 Weight loss and amount of glucose released 0.94 0.82 0.93.095 0.6 Breaking strength and weight loss 0.95 0.93 0.96 0.82 - Breaking strefhgth and amount of glucose released 0.85 0.1 0.95 0.88-102 Iranian Polymer Journal % Volume 11 Number 2 (2002)

Khoddami A. et al_ that the core-spun yarn had a larger diameter than other samples due to the lower specific density of polyester filaments [19]. Thus firstly core-spun yam possesses more cotton fibres on its surface area than the other four weft yarn samples, and secondly the penetration of enzyme molecules into the sheath cotton fibres is deeper as well. For these two reasons, a higher amount of glucose is released and therefore, the weight loss of core-spun yarn under identical conditions is higher than or equal to the MJS spun sample. In core-spun yarn, the core part of yarn consists of continuous filament polyester whereas ; the sheath's component constitutes the cotton fibres. As a result, the most important factor in biopolishing and enzymatic hydrolysis appeared to be the amount of fibres on the surface area of yarn, and those fibres deeper inside the yarn seemed to be less accessible to enzymes and therefore were less hydrolyzed. The measurement of the breaking load of weft yarns was another test carried out to compare the rate of hydrolysis. The results show that for weft yarns apart from core-spun yarn, as the reaction time increases the strength of the fibres decreases. For the core-spun weft yarn, in comparison with the untreated sample, the strength increases in the first 30 min of treatment time and after that it remains constant. The effect of treatment times on the breaking strength of samples is shown in Figure 4. As shown in this figure, by comparing the shape of the curves for carded, open-end and combed samples, it becomes apparent that the trend of variations on these samples is similar. There are also similar trends for the curves of weight loss a- I released glucose in the hydrolysis bath. As can be seen from Table 3, there is a linear relationship between strength loss, weight loss and ts30 R 2= 0.80 B 5 5.4 5.8 6.2 6.6 C 5 5.4 5.8 6.2 6.6 10 ta240 R2 1.6 E 5.4 5.8 6.2 6.6 Figure 2. Relationship between weight loss of various fabrics and their weft yam hairiness. Iranian P o l y m e r Journal / Volume I I Number 2 (2002) 103

Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Cotton Fabrics with Weft Yams Produced released glucose of samples. It is clear from these data that strength loss due to hydrolysis depends on the same factors which increase the weight loss and glucose release. Results show that during the shorter treatment times, the loss of strength for samples are in the following order: carded > open-end > combed > MJS > core-spun But for longer treatment times, the sequence is changed in the following order: carded > MJS > open-end > combed > core-spun Therefore, during the short treatment times, apart from the core-spun well yarns sample, the trend of the strength loss on yarn samples coincides with the order of sequence of weft yarn hairiness. Since the protruding or free standing fibres causing hairiness of fabrics is one of the main factors which determines the weight loss, so it is clear from the results shown in Table 3 the reason for a high coefficient of correlation for the carded, open-end and combed samples. It seems that the removal of surface fuzzes of fabrics is the main reason for strength loss in the beginning of hydrolysis process. As the hydrolysis period is prolonged, strength loss of MJS sample exceeds that of openend and combed samples. For longer treatment times the amount of released glucose in the hydrolysis bath of the MJS sample is more than that of openend and combed samples, therefore the strength loss is related to the amount of glucose released (Table 3). The higher strength of the core-spun yarn is generally attributed to its polyester filament core and the role of the cotton fibres in the sheath in this 1.5 Gerded 1.5 Combed 0.9 n m0.3 A 0 60 120 i80 240 _1.5 d,. w g G 0.9 2 0.3,..,1.5 i 10.9 c 0.3 MAJ5 D Core-spat E 0 80 120 180 240 Figure 3. Glucose released as a function of treatment time. 60 120 180 240 104 Iranian Polymer Journal i Volume 11 Member 2 (2002)

Khoddami A ct al. 12 Ceded 1 8 c 4 - A in 0 0 60 120 180 240 12 12 x 8 MJS x A.c- til 4 D 0. 0 60 120 180 240 r 4 0 0 E 60 120 180 240 Figure 4. Breaking strength as a function of treatment time. case is of less significance and therefore cotton fibers are the only materials, which are hydrolyzed. Another reason for the increase in the strength of core-spun yarn may also be due to mechanical impacts specially applied by steel balls on the samples. It is possible that the mechanical impacts increase the entanglement between covering fibres and so the strength of the core-spun yarn is enhanced. CONCLUSION Because different structures of yams are produced by different spinning systems, in this study the effects of various structures on the enzymatic hydrolysis of cotton fabrics have been investigated. A correlation coefficient is found to be sufficient between the weight loss of fabrics and hairiness of weft yarns. Also, it is observed that there is high correlation between the amount of the released glucose in the hydrolysis bath, weight loss and decreasing of breaking load of weft yams. From the experimental results of the core-spun samples it seems that the enzymatic hydrolysis has little or no effect on the core polyester filament but the sheath cotton fibres are mainly affected. r ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This work has been funded by the Research Council of Isfahan University of Technology. Also we would like to thank Genencor International, Inc for providing enzymes. Iranian Polymer Journal / Volume 11 Number 2 (2002) 105

Enzymatic Hydrolysis at Comm Fabrics with Weft Yams Produced REFERENCES I. Cavaco A. and Almeida L., " Effects of agitation and endoglucanase pretreatment on this hydrolysis of cotton fabrics, by a total cellulase", Text. Res. J., 66, 5. 28-294, May (1996). 2. Cavaco A. and Almeida L., "Application of enzymatic technologies in cotton finishing", Nova Testil, 32, 32-39 (1994). 3. Pedersen G.L., Screws GA. and Cedroni D.M., "Biopolishing, of cellulosic fabrics", Melliand Textilber, 4, 12, 12-1280 (English-E419)-420 December (1993). 4. Wadham M., "Bio-polishing of cellulosic fabrics", J. SDC, 110, 12, 36-368, December(1994). 5. Cavaco A. and Almeida L., "Cellulase hydrolysis of cotton cellulose : The effect of mechanical action, enzyme concentration and dyed substrates", Biocatalysis, 10, 353-360 (1994). 6. Buschle-Diller G., Zeronian S.H., Pan N., and Yoon M.Y., "Enzymatic hydrolysis of cotton, linen, ramie and viscose rayon", Text. Res. J., 64, 5, 20-29, May (1994).. Almeida L. and Cavaco-Paulo A., "Softening of cotton by enzymatic hydrolysis", Melliand Textilber, 4, 5, 404-40(English- E184-185), May (1993). 8. Koo H., Ueda M. and Wakida T., "Cellulase treatment of cotton fabrics" Text. Res. J., 64, 2, 0-4, February (1994). 9. Snyder L.G., "Improving the quality of 100% cotton knit fabrics by defuzzing with singeing and cellulase enzymes ", Text. Chem. Color., 29, 6, 2-32, lune (199). 10. Chong, C.L. and Yip, P.C., "Bio-finishing of cotton knits", Am. Dyes!. Rep, 83, 3, 54-59, March (1994). 11. Kumar A., Pintail C. and Lepola M., "Enzymatic treatment of man-made cellulosic fabrics", Text Chem. Color., 29, 10, 25-28, October (1994). 12. Cavaco-Paulo A. and Almeida L., "Hydrolysis of cotton cellulose by engineering cellulases from trichoderma reesei", Text. Res. J, 68, 4, 23-280, April (1998). 13. Hosseini Ravandi S.A., Toriumi K. and Matsumoto Y., "Spectral analysis of the stick-slip motion of dynamic friction in the fabric surface", Textile Res. J., 64, 4, 224-229, April (1994). 14. Hosseini Ravandi S.A., Toriumi K. and Matsumoto Y., "Fourier transform analysis of plain weave fabric appearance", Textile Res. J., 65, 11, 66-6683, November (1995). 15. Hosseini Ravandi S.A. and Toriumi K., "Spectral analysis of the yam-pullout force from plain-weave fabric", J, Text., Inst., 8, 522-531 (1996). 16. Hosseini Ravandi S.A. and Ghana M., "Study of fundamental factors affecting fabric surface protrusion ", J Text. Inst. in Press. 1. Evans E., Wales D., Bratt R. and Sagar B., " Investigation of an endoglucanase essential for action of the cellulose system of trichoderma reesei on crystalline cellulase", J. Gen. Microbial, 138, 1639-1646(1992). 18. American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual Book of ASTM Standards", Easton 1998. 19. Siavashi M., "Effect of enzymatic hydrolysis on mechanical and surface properties of cotton fabrics", MSc Thesis, Textile Dept., Isfahan Univ. Tech., 1998. 106 Iranian Polymer Journal /Yoluma I) Number 2 (2002)