Debbie Shore s Sew Brilliant Bags Choose from 12 beautiful projects, then design your own
Contents Introduction 8 Design toolkit 10 Sewing essentials 10 Handy techniques 14 Inserting zips 14 Using bias binding 17 Cutting corners 17 Snipping into curves 17 Making handles and straps 18 Fussy cutting 20 Piping 20 Making a square base 21 Adding feet 21 Fitting eyelets 22 Adding snap fasteners 23 Adding a twist fastening 24 Useful stitches 25 Customising the projects 26 Designing your own bags 28 Projects 30 Index 96
Introduction I love any kind of sewing, but if I had to choose, bagmaking would be my favourite type. I like figuring out how to construct a bag and make it as useful as possible, and then adding a few touches to make it unique. In this book I have included twelve lovely projects for you to try out I ve covered lots of different bag styles and sewing techniques so that you can pick and choose from them when designing and making your own bags. You could try using the smocking technique (pages 84 89) to create a panel in a larger bag rather than a clutch, or add a flap pocket to the shopper (pages 58 61) and a tube handle to the beach bag (pages 30 35). Experiment with different fabrics: try making the office bag (pages 42 49) in denim rather than cotton, or the oilcloth tote (pages 50 53) in burlap/hessian. There is no right or wrong in bag-making, but there are a few practical considerations you will need to bear in mind, and a few helpful tips that I would like to share with you to make your bag look professionally made. For these, see the design toolkit at the beginning of the book. Unless otherwise stated, seam allowances should be ½in (1cm). The main point of this book is to inspire, help and encourage you to enjoy getting creative with your bag-making! 8
CENTRE ZIP This zip is used in the beach bag (page 30), city bag (page 36) and office bag (page 42). 1 Place the zip, slider side down, across the top of the right side of a piece of fabric. Pin, tack/baste it in place, then machine sew along the top edge of the zip. Using bias binding I use 1in (2.5cm) binding most frequently, which is a folded 2in (5cm) strip. You can make it yourself, using a bias tape maker (see right), or you can buy it ready-made. If you are applying the tape continuously so that the ends meet first fold over the start end of the tape. 2 Place a second piece of fabric right sides together to the opposite side of the tape, pin, tack/baste then sew. DESIGN TOOLKIT 3 Fold back and press. 4 Repeat with the opposite side of the tape and two further pieces of fabric. Notice how the fabrics are placed when finished, see below. 5 Trim away the excess zip, then hand sew the open end closed. This helps to keep the zip neat when sewing into the seam and stops the zip slider falling off. 1 Pin the raw edges right sides together, then sew along the uppermost crease line. When you get back to the start, the ends should overlap when they meet. Cutting corners Snipping off the point of a corner will help your corners form crisp right angles when your fabric is turned right side out. Cut close to the stitch line but be careful not to cut into the stitches. 2 Take the folded tape over the edge to the back of the fabric, then hand stitch, catching the very edge of the tape to keep the stitches as small as possible. Snipping into curves Cutting into the seam allowance of curves reduces bulk so that your seams will be neater. DESIGN TOOLKIT 6 Press again, then top-stitch the fabric down each side of the zip. This not only looks neat, it helps to keep all the layers together. 7 To use this piece as a pocket, as in the office bag, fold it in half. Cut V -shaped notches into the seam allowance with sharp scissors, being careful not to cut the stitches. On a smaller curve, it may be easier to cut along the seam allowance using pinking shears. 17
3 Place the outer and the lining 7 Pop the second half of the lock over the top and pieces wrong sides together use a little repositionable spray adhesive to hold together. Apply the bias binding around the sides and bottom edge. (See page 17.) secure using the screws. 8 This is how the flap looks from the front. 4 On the back of the flap, 9 measure 2in (5cm) up from the centre bottom of the lining and mark: place the hole side of the twist lock over the top, and draw around the inside. Also mark where the screws will go, as shown. Make sure the slot is parallel with the bound flap edge. For the zipped divider, take the four pieces of divider fabric and the zip. Place the zip face down centrally along one long edge of one piece of fabric, pin, then tack/baste, then sew along the zip tape. 10 Lay the second piece face down on top, lining up the edge, pin, tack/baste then sew along this edge. Sew down the centre of the zip tape. 11 Repeat with the next two pieces of fabric to attach them to the opposite side of the zip. 12 Open and press. Trim off the excess zip, and sew the open end of the zip together. 5 Carefully cut around the box, and into the markings where the screws will go. You will have to trim a tiny amount away, but we want this to be a snug fit around the clasp with no gaps, so it is worth taking your time and snipping away little by little. 6 Push the top of the lock through from the outer side. When you are happy with the fit, drizzle a tiny amount of fabric glue around the hole. 13 Carefully top-stitch along each side of the zip. Fold the divider in half so that the zip is at the top. 44 7
Shopper Although this is quite a large bag, it is actually one of the easiest in the book, so this is a good project to start with if you are a beginner bag maker. As there is no closure on this tote, I have put a zipped pocket on the inside for security. What you need ½yd (46cm) of flowery fabric, cut into: Two pieces measuring 13½in (34.5cm) wide x 12in (30.5cm) deep, for the shell One piece measuring 13½ x 8in (34.5 x 20.5cm), for the pocket Tip Another zipped pocket on the outside of the bag may be useful 1 Iron the fusible fleece to the back of the outer sections of the bag that s the two flowery shell pieces, one of the spotty base pieces, and two of the spotty end pieces. 2 Measure 1in (2.5cm) in from the side on the bottom edge of all four end pieces, and trim from this point to each top corner. ½yd (46cm) of spotty lining fabric, cut into: Two pieces measuring 13½ x 12in (34.5 x 30.5cm) Four pieces measuring 12 x 7in (30.5 x 18cm) for the ends Two pieces measuring 13½ x 5in (34.5 x 13cm) for the base One piece measuring 13½ x 8in (34.5 x 20.5cm) for the pocket 3 Mark four dots on the outer base piece, 1in (2.5cm) in from each corner. This is where you will place the feet later. Fusible fleece to back all of the outer pieces Four bag feet Bag base, measuring 12½ x 4in (32 x 10cm) Clear fabric glue 16in (40cm) nylon zip Two 14in (36cm) strips of webbing for the handles Four large and four small buttons 4 Sew together the four outer panels: start by sewing the two end panels onto one of the flowery shell pieces, right sides together. If your print is directional, ensure you place the wide edge of the end pieces at the top. Then attach the back shell piece in the same way, to create a tube. Open the seams and press. Turn the right way through then top-stitch each side of every seam. 58 59
Quilted Drawstring Tote This sturdy, simple tote has the benefit of a drawstring top section to keep your belongings private! I have used a foam stabiliser so that the bag stands up add bag feet and pockets if you wish! What you need Two rectangles of outer fabric measuring 17in (43cm) across by 10in (25cm) deep Two pieces of foam stabiliser measuring 17in (43cm) across by 10in (25cm) deep Two pieces of lining measuring 17in (43cm) across by 10in (25cm) deep For the base, one piece of outer fabric measuring 12 x 4in (30.5 x 10cm) One piece of fusible foam measuring 12 x 4in (30.5 x 10cm) One piece of lining measuring 12 x 4in (30.5 x 10cm) For the drawstring section, one piece of fabric measuring 33½ x 16in (85 x 40.5cm) For the handles, two outer and two lining pieces of fabric measuring 2 x 24in (5 x 61cm) 35in (90cm) coordinating bias binding Two 1in (2.5cm) eyelets 40in (102cm) drawstring cord Cord lock Repositionable spray adhesive Erasable ink pen A 4in (10cm) circle template: I used a reel of ribbon 1 Measure 2in (5cm) in from each bottom corner of the rectangular fabric pieces, foam and lining, and cut at an angle to the top corners, as shown. 2 Using a little repositionable adhesive, adhere the wrong side of a piece of outer fabric to a piece of foam. 3 Using the 30-degree angle on your ruler, and starting at the centre point, mark rows of parallel lines, 1½in (4cm) apart. Turn your ruler around and mark the lines in the opposite direction, until your fabric is covered with a diamond grid. 90 91
SEW BRILLIANT BAGS Choose from 12 beautiful projects then design your own Debbie Shore 204 x 260 mm 96 pp Softcover RRP: R200.00 ISBN 978-1-928201-67-0 Publication date: January 2016 Available in Afrikaans: Maak mooi sakke ISBN 978-1-928201-68-7 Metz Press is an independent publisher of high quality information books and illustrated non-fiction for the local market as well as the international co-edition market. We have sold rights to our books in countries all over the world, having impressed reputable international companies with our quality of content and production and our ability to deliver. Publisher: Wilsia Metz Tel: +27 (0)21 913 7557 Fax: +27 (0)21 913 5102 Email: info@metzpress.co.za Web: www.metzpress.co.za Postal address: PO Box 7322, Welgemoed, 7538, South Africa Street address: 1 Cameronians Avenue, Welgemoed, 7535, South Africa ALSO AVAILABLE FROM METZ PRESS
< < Sew 12 stylish bags in all shapes and sizes. < < Follow Debbie s easy-to-use instructions and clear step-by-step photography; all the techniques are fully explained and all the projects can be made using a basic sewing machine. < < Use Debbie s design toolkit to customise the projects to suit your tastes and to successfully design and make your own unique creations. METZ PRESS www.metzpress.co.za