FACTORY CAT 1. To start a replacement of the XR Front Wheel Drive, make sure the machine is on level ground with the rear wheels chocked and always disconnect the batteries. 2. Locate the Positive and Negative terminals on the drive motor (SEE FIGURE 1-A), pull back on the black rubber boots (if you are having problems - use Needle Nose Pliers), and using a 1/2 wrench remove the 5/16-18 nuts (SEE FIGURE 1-B). Secure the cables away from the motor. 3. Locate the wire that leads from the parking brake to the top of the front wheel drive mounting plate and cut the zip ties. Once the zip ties are cut and out of the way, disconnect the male and female connectors (SEE FIGURE 1-C). RPS CORPORATION TOMCAT XR Front Drive Updates THIS KIT INCLUDES: - (x1) Front Wheel Drive - (x1) Pivot Plate - (x6) M10x30 10.9 Cap Screw - (x1) Wire Guide - (x2) 3/8-24x2-1/2 Hex Cap Screw - (x2) 3/8-24 Stainless Jam Nylok Nut - (x5) 3/8-24x2 Hex Cap Screw - (x1) 3/8-24 Hex Nut - (x1) 3/8 IDx7/8 OD Washer - (x2) 16 Gauge Butt Connectors - (x1) PVC Spacer - (x1) Foam Gasket 4. In the control panel, locate the two main harnesses coming from the underside of the machine. In the back 16-pin smaller harness, find the Black and Blue wires that are all the way to the side and remove them from harness (SEE FIGURE 1-D & 1-E). 1
5. In order to remove the Black and Blue parking brake wires from the Molex harness, use the Molex pin remover tool (SEE FIGURE 2-A). To use this tool, slide tool in as shown, slide each side of the tool into the right and left side of the pin (SEE FIGURE 2-B). There will be a slight click feeling and with this you can remove the wire from the harness. For more detailed images SEE FIGURE 2-C and SEE FIGURE 2-D. If not - Cut the wires with enough room that you will be able to recrimp them together with the (x2) 16 gauge butt connectors. 6. Remove the bolts that are holding the bottom two Traction wires in place on the controller. Save the bolts for re-installation (SEE FIGURE 2-E). 7. While underneath the machine, pull the Blue and Black parking brake and Traction Motor wires out from the control panel. Unclip the zip ties holding them with all of the other wires (SEE FIGURE 2-F). 8. On the top of the machine, remove the front drive floorplate cover using a 1/2 socket on the four 5/16-18 bolts holding it down (SEE FIGURE 2-G & 2-H). 9. Untangle the wires so you have a clear view of your working space. Using Needle Nose Pliers, remove the metal pin going through the spindle (SEE FIGURE 2-I). 2
9. Remove the nut and washer on the front of the drop plate (SEE FIGURE 3-A, A) and loosen the tension between the bolt and the steering shaft by tightening the bolt further into the threading of the drop plate (SEE FIGURE 3-A, B). With the tension removed it will be easy to pull the steering shaft on an angle to get the chain on the drive to come loose. 10. Move the steering shaft till you are able to spin the chain off. If with the steering shaft being loose you are unable to get the chain off, remove the chain pin clip and then chain pin and the chain will come apart (SEE FIGURE 3-B). If the chain is taken apart, it will have to be put on the same way it was taken off. 11. Now that the Parking Brake, Drive Motor, and Steering Chain are disconnected, you can loosen the main spindle Nut that you already removed the metal pin from (SEE FIGURE 3-C). Note: Once the nut is removed you will have the ability to drop the Drive Assembly, from the Wheel to the Spindle, out of the machine. In order to fully get it out you will have to feed the Blue and Black Parking Brake and Traction wires through the machine and out. These are going to be re-installed later. 12. To drop the disconnected drive out, you will need two people. One person will hold the drive in place while the other one lifts the front of the machine off of the ground, either using a hoist or using two floor jacks. You will need to lift the machine approxiamately 4 high in order to pull the drive out. CAUTION: Drive Assembly is Very Heavy. Support Machine With Suitable Safety Stands Before Reaching Underneath. 3
13. Once the drive is off, it is easiest to bring it to a bench to work on. Remove the foam seal on top of the Steering Sprocket. Clean it off as you will be re-installing a new seal (SEE FIGURE 4-A). 14. If you have a rubber casing over the bolt that is in the sprocket hole, remove this and discard (SEE FIG- URE 4-B). This will be replaced by a new protective casing. If you don t have the rubber casing, just continue. 15. Loosen the nut that is between the Drive Mounting Plate and the sprocket that is on the bolt going through the sprocket hole (SEE FIGURE 4-C). 16. Loosen all of the bolts that are bolting the spindle, the sprocket, and the mounting plate together. Start with the four bolts without nuts on them and loosen them (SEE FIGURE 4-D). Remove the two longer bolts with nuts on the end, make sure to use a wrench on the wire guide nuts when loosening, that hold down the Wire Guide. Once these are removed, remove the rest. The 2 marked bolts are 2 1/2 bolts. These are the ones with nuts on the bottom of them. Remove after all others are loosened. 4
17. Remove the sprocket and set to the side. Remove the spindle and set to the side (SEE FIGURE 5-A). 18. Remove the 6 bolts holding the drive to the drop plate (SEE FIGURE 5-B). Note: These are torqued on - may be hard to remove. 19. Flip over the Drive Mounting Plate and you may see some tape holding the wires in place (SEE FIGURE 5-C). If so, just remove it so that you can seperate your wires from the mounting plate. 20. Set up the drive on the table, take the new mounting plate and flip it upside down, and retape the wire to this one (SEE FIGURE 5-D). There should be about a 3 1/2 gap from the connectors to the plate. 5
21. Now on the new drive we put three drops of LOCTITE 243 Retaining Compound (SEE FIGURE 6-B) into each bolt hole (SEE FIGURE 6-A). 22. Flip the mounting plate right side up and make sure that the Blue and Black wires are on the same side as the parking brake (SEE FIGURE 6-C). Align the plate and the drive up as seen here (SEE FIG- URE 6-D). 23. Hand thread the bolts that hold the mounting plate onto the drive till they all have some threading. Make sure to use the correct holes (SEE FIGURE 6-C). Make sure you have the plate and the drive lined up with the correct offset (SEE FIGURE 6-D). 24. Look at the drive motor and make note of the placements of the Positive and Negative terminals (SEE FIGURE 6-E). Make sure that the Traction wires match this color order in the wire length offset (SEE FIGURE 6-F). There will be extra wire than neccesary hanging out towards the terminals - this is okay, it will be tightened later. 25. Attach the Positive and Negative terminals to the correlating bolts (SEE FIGURE 6-G). The wire that is more to the top will stay just straight up and down. The wire that is lower you want to curve so that it fits through the groove (SEE FIGURE 7-A). 6
26. Lightly tap the lower wire with a mallet into place underneath the groove (SEE FIGURE 7-A). Once in place tighten both wires securely on their bolts and cover with rubber terminal boots. 27. Make the wire for the Traction Drive rounded so that it doesn t touch the tire (SEE FIG- URE 7-B). Once you have a nice curve not touching the tire, hold the wire from the bottom of the mounting plate where it goes through the plate and bend it outwards so that it will stay in place (SEE FIGURE 7-C). 28. Tigthen all (6) bolts that attach the drive to the mounting plate to 30 ft lbs per inch with a torque wrench (SEE FIGURE 7-D AND 7-E). 7
29. Attach the Male and Female connectors for the parking brake. Connection order doesn t matter. Once attached, zip tie wires in a loop so that they won t hang down or catch on anything (SEE FIGURE 8-A). 30. Take the spindle (SEE FIGURE 8-B) and lower it over the wires onto the plate (SEE FIGURE 8-C). 31. Take the sprocket and make sure that it is clean of oil or grease (SEE FIGURE 8-D). Once wiped off, feed wires through hole and place ontop of spindle aligning all of the six main holes up that connect it to the spindle as well as the hole that attaches the sprocket to the mounting plate (SEE FIGURE 8-E). 8
32. Take four of the 3/8 x 2 bolts as well as the two 3/8 x 2 1/2 bolts and place a small amount of LOCTITE 242 (or 243) (SEE FIGURE 9-B) on it (SEE FIGURE 9-A). Then place the four 2 bolts into the holes that go through the sprocket and tighten loosely by hand. Take the 2 1/2 bolts and place them in the same way (SEE FIGURE 9-C). The 2 marked bolts are 2 1/2 bolts. These are the ones with nuts on the bottom of them. Hand tighten all (5) 2 bolts before these. 33. Place a small amount of LOC- TITE 243 on the threaded hole in the mounting plate (SEE FIGURE 9-D). 34. Drop the last 2 bolt with washer on it through the sprocket side hole (SEE FIGURE 9-E). Thread the nut onto the bolt about half way. Once there is room, continue threading the bolt into the mounting plate (SEE FIGURE 9-F). 9
35. Take the Wire Guide and lay the Traction Wires into it. Mount onto the bottom of the Mounting Plate using the two Nylock nuts provided (SEE FIURE 10-A). Tighten the bolts and nylocks holding the Wire Guide in place (SEE FIGURE 10-B). Tighten the rest of the bolts in the spindle. 36. Tigthen the nut on the sprocket bolt all the way down to the mounting plate and make sure it is tight (SEE FIGURE 10-C). Use the Plastic Casing and place over the top of the bolt. If there is any overhang, trim off with a razor blade (SEE FIGURE 10-D). 37. Wipe off top of sprocket and install new foam seal (SEE FIGURE 10-E). 38. Your drive is now up to date with the current drive and mounting plate. Now re-install as taken off. Remember to re-connect your batteries when the full install is finished. 10