MARKING SEWING LINES Press mark seams Stitching a straight seam without a line to follow not only requires perfect cutting but also an accurate eye for gauging the correct distance between the cut edge and the needle. As very few people have a true eye for measure, it is advisable not to depend on the eye for true stitching but to actually crease mark a true line for basting and stitching. After the material has been cut the sewing line is then pressed, marking all the dress very quickly. This may seem to be a waste of time, but the time saved in ripping is not only a saving of time later but is also a saving on the nerves. This is especially true on all intricate joinings such as curves and angles and all fitting lines on the sides of the garment. The time spent in crease marking the seams is repaid in the perfect results when basting. Crease marking There are several methods advocated for marking seams but they are too impractical to use and for this reason they are seldom used by the dressmaker. But there is a quicker method used by French dressmakers which will simplify the whole process of making the garment; namely, creasing the seams at the sewing line with a hot iron. Practically all materials other than velvets and heavy woolens can be marked in this manner. Cottons, silks, synthetic fabrics, light woolens and linens can all be creased and will retain the crease until the seam is basted. Not only are the seams marked
with a crease but a crease will perfect the lines of darts, tucks, pleats and corners so perfectly that sewing is made easy. Preparation Preparation for the creasing should be made when the pattern is pinned to the goods. If the pattern is to be cut double, then both the right and left sides will be creased in one operation. The pattern should be pinned to the goods along the sewing line so that the pins rest along the line of the seam and in it when creased. This requires careful pinning which is also necessary when sewing perfectly by a pattern. The pattern has been made for a given size and all the seams have been added. For the dress to fit as it was intended for the standard figure, the seam must be made at a given space from the edge of the pattern; each pattern having its respective seam allowance. When the given sewing line is followed accurately, a wider seam allowance may be cut to permit a letout or to give more material for seam finish in fraying materials. The let-out is most essential for perfect fitting but whether the goods is let out retaken in, any alteration should be made from the actual sewing line and the crease will give it perfectly. Press the seam Lay aside the sections as they are cut until all the dress is cut out. Do not remove the pattern from the material. Place the pattern with the material pinned to it on the press board with the
pattern side down. Fold back the edge of the pattern until the right amount of seam is allowed and press the turned edge with an iron that is not too hot. This will make a straight true line for basting on both right and left sides. Marking darts All tucks and darts should be marked when marking the seams. Place a pin along the line of the tuck or dart with the pins resting in the sewing line. Pick up the goods with the pattern pinned to it and press the line of the dart or tuck. Press one side of the dart and then the other side making two lines that intersect. Tucks will be creased in the same manner.
End of tucks marked Place a row of pins close together down each tuck indicated on the pattern and through both thicknesses of material as folded. Lift each tuck by the pins and fold over with the pins protruding and press the line of the tuck. After all the tucks are marked with a straight crease, fold down the goods across the end of the row of tucks and press mark a cross-crease as a line for ending. Pleated crease Pleated sections should be pinned to the pattern singly. First one side to be marked and then the other side, right and left sides not marked together as the double creasing makes one side with a reverse crease which is confusing when laying pleats, as each pleat on one side of the dress would have to be turned on the crease.
Reversing creases of pleats (Make a paper sample of this problem.) One of the advantages of creasing is that both the right and left sides are marked simultaneously. But when both are marked, one side will have the edges of the crease folded the wrong way and will have to be reversed when sewing. The sewing line has been marked, however, and gives a true line for basting. Pleats All dart and tuck lines are easily reversed but pleats should lie flat when marked and it is advisable to pin the pattern to the goods with the pattern on the right side of the material pinning down the line of the pleats. If perforations are used on the pattern it is advisable to first crease mark the line for folding and follow the creased line for the pinning. Fold over the pleat as
indicated by the pattern and press it just as it will lie when made into the dress. Hem line marked A trial hem can also be creased when the dress is being marked, pressing up all skirt sections on the hem allowance. A trial fitting is always more satisfactory when the hem is basted so as to better determine the correct length. Corners clipped All inner corners should be clipped, when the dress is cut (as directed). It will then be possible to press back the sewing lines of the edges of the angle when is quite necessary when basting perfect points. The clip should be made to within two or three
threads of the actual sewing line so as to make a perfect point. Press mark all sewing lines of intricate points and angles. Mark all fitting lines It is important to press mark all side seams of the dress as these seams will be the fitting lines, the side seams of the waist and skirt and also the sleeves. Unnecessary to mark curves It is not necessary to press mark curves of the neck, armhole or sleeve cap. It is advisable, however, to press mark the back section at the cross back on the straight section of the back. The curve under the arm need not be marked. Cut narrow seams on all curves, especially inner curves as a wide seam makes the curve smaller. With the seams all creased it is a simple matter to match the creases and either pin the sections together on the crease and stitch, or baste the seams and then stitch. Assembling the dress will be explained later. Tailor's tacks for inner marks Tailor's tacks are used only for marking inner lines and curves such as in the placement of a pocket, but they are seldom used by the dressmaker for marking seams. If the pattern had printed lines, holes must be clipped into the line of the pocket for the tack. Use a double strand of thread. Take two stitches through the perforation leaving the second stitch with a loop above the stitch. Skip to the next perforation
and take two more stitches leaving a loop above the stitch, repeat if necessary. Separate It will then be necessary to clip the long threads that join the two stitches between the perforations. The pattern cannot be removed unless they are clipped apart and the stitches will be pulled out after the goods is separated if this long thread remains.
After the long stitch is severed, FOLD THE GOODS BACK CAREFULLY PARALLEL WITH AT LEAST TWO OF THE STITCHES, opening the material until both stitches are visible. Draw them apart only sufficiently wide to clip them apart. The shorter the stitches the better they will remain in the goods. After all the stitches are clipped apart, trim off the long threads on top of the goods. If the stitches are separated one at a time, they will usually be pulled out of the goods; opening two or more at a time helps to hold them firm until they are separated. Tailor's chalk Tailor's chalk is indispensable in the sewing room if accuracy is desired. It is used for marking straight lines, bias strips, hems, alterations and various other uses.
When using tailor's chalk to mark a straight line, follow the edge of a yardstick or long ruler. Soft materials usually must be marked in dash lines to keep from displacing the material. Bias binding material should also be marked true with chalk marking dash lines. Blocking material Tailor's chalk is also used when blocking out an original pattern or when cutting from a pattern with no seams allowed. If no seams are allowed on the pattern, it is always advisable to make a dash line for cutting as a warning not to cut off the seam allowance. This seam allowance can then be pressed back over the edge of the pattern which gives the actual sewing line. Tracing wheel A tracing wheel is seldom used on materials but it is invaluable when tracing off patterns for a duplication of it, or when tracing dress lines to match for making some section for remodeling a garment. Important! Mark for stitching It is even more necessary to crease mark for stitching than it is for basting as it is sometimes necessary to alter the basted lines. But after the desired fitting is secured and the basting has been made, place the dress on the press board wrong side out and press all the seams over to one side to make a straight crease for stitching. THE SEAM IS NOT OPENED.
This crease will eliminate any crooks in the basting which are easy to make by the most particular worker as some material slips and slides easily which makes it difficult to handle. Points and angles should always be crease marked before stitching, also all side seams and long seams of skirts. After the crease has been made, LIFT THE CREASED SEAM AND FOLLOW THE CREASE WHEN MACHINE STITCHING AND THE LINE OF THE SEAM WILL BE PERFECT.
Stitching without basting It is possible to stitch without basting if one is experienced in sewing, but it usually results in much ripping for the amateur. The factory operator never bastes but she sews thousands of the same seams and soon becomes an expert in her work. If the home sewer is working with gingham or some firmly woven material it MAY be safe to stitch without basting but silks and soft materials should always be basted. Practice each problem as given. Questions Marking Sewing Lines Why is it difficult to stitch a straight seam? Why is it necessary to mark sewing lines? Which lines are necessary to mark? What is a quick method of marking? What materials can be marked in this manner? What materials cannot be marked in this manner? What other parts of the dress are crease marked? When are the pins placed for crease marking? If the material is to be cut double what happens? When is a wider seam to be allowed? Should the pattern be immediately removed from the goods after cutting?
How are the pattern and material placed on the press board? How is the seam pressed back? Is the seam pressed on both the right and left sides of the goods? When are darts and tucks marked? When are the pins placed? How are the lines creased? How is a perfect ending for a row of tucks made? Are both sides creased simultaneously? Does one side require reversing the crease where doubled? Can a straight line then be followed? Should pleats be marked on double fold of material? How is the pattern pinned to the goods? What must be done to perforated lines? How is pattern pinned and pleats marked? Should a trial hem be creased? What should be done to inner corners? Should corner sewing lines be marked? Why? How far in is the corner clipped on inner corners? Why is it necessary to mark all side seams? What seams are unnecessary to mark? What cross-back seams should be marked? Should wide seams be cut on curves and why?
When are tailor's tacks made? Must holes be made in printed patterns to be able to make tailor's tacks with a loop? How many stitches are taken for each tack? Are the long threads separated on top before the seam is separated? How is the goods opened to separate the tacks? Is the seam opened narrow or wide? Do short threads hold better than long threads? What should be done to the long threads on top? Do dressmakers' tacks follow a chalk line? When are they used? When is tailor's chalk used? How? How is a bias marked with chalk? If no seams are allowed what indication should be made? When is a tracing wheel used? How is a basted seam straightened for stitching? How is the seam placed on the press board? Is the seam pressed open or over to one side? What should be done to points and angles and side seams? Should the amateur stitch without basting? Why can factory operators stitch without basting?