Spain - The Best of Coto Donana in Spring

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in Spring Naturetrek 3 7 April 2018 Little Bittern by Byron Palacios Black-necked Grebe by Andrew Lapworth Great Reed Warbler by Andrew Lapworth White-headed Duck by Byron Palacios Report compiled by Byron Palacios Images courtesy of Andrew Lapworth and Byron Palacios Naturetrek Wolf s Lane, Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Spain - The Best of Coto Donana Tour participants: Byron Palacios & Niki Williamson (leaders) with 14 Naturetrek clients Introduction Once upon a time, when foreign travel was still a remote dream for most people, the account of the expedition in Guy Mountfort s classic book Portrait of a Wilderness made exciting reading. It also inspired many avid explorers to have ambitions to visit the remarkable area of Doñana. The aim of this tour was to visit many of the habitats in Doñana National Park and witness a wonderful selection of its wildlife. We were not disappointed! Day 1 Tuesday 3rd April London Gatwick Seville El Rocio We started the tour with a flight from London Gatwick to Seville, arriving to a bright and sunny Seville with a pleasant temperature of 20ºC. As we were off peak time, it was a pretty easy drive through the city, heading towards El Rocio. We spotted a large group of Common Swifts by the airport, followed by many Black Kites and Common Buzzards. A few more birds such as Iberian Magpies and White Stork were seen along the main road and nearer to El Rocio, where we finally arrived in the mid afternoon. We took our assigned rooms while enjoying local nibbles and drinks. After a settle-in break, we did some pleasant birding on the marshes (La Marisma) located just behind the hotel which produced Eurasian Spoonbill, Greater Flamingo, Black-winged Stilt and Gadwall, amongst many others. After a very pleasant birding session, late afternoon we walked back to our hotel to freshen up before drinks, checklist and a very good local style dinner! Day 2 Wednesday 4th April El Acebrón Palace La Rocina After an early breakfast, we drove just a few minutes away from our hotel to El Acebron Palace, making a birding stop along the way which produced very interesting birds such as Thekla and Crested Larks, Dartford and Sardinian Warblers, European Bee-eaters, Eurasian Hoopoe, Iberian Grey Shrike and Woodchat Shrike, amongst others. Once at the palace, we walked along the trail which links the Mediterranean forest to the palace s beautiful gardens, where we managed to find a few new and interesting species for our list such as Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Short-toed Treecreeper, Crested, Blue, Great and Long-tailed Tits, Serin and Common Kingfisher, whilst Pallid Swifts gliding actively around. We then had a look at the palace itself before we had our delicious picnic lunch, which we enjoyed in the palace gardens. After lunch we drove a short distance to La Rocina. This is part of the Donana Natural Park and offers a variety of wooden trails, perfect to locate a good sample of the bird species of the area. We started our walk from the car park along the boardwalk, having close views of Short-toed Treecreeper, Tree Sparrow, Serin, Black Kite and Common Buzzard, etc. Walking further on to the first hide, noisy Nightingales were singing from all the bushes and hedges. Grey Herons, Eurasian Spoonbills and a few Glossy Ibis landed right in front of us while we walked into the marshes. Also Cetti's and Reed Warblers were calling and seen, and we managed to get some great views of Woodchat Shrike, Black Kite, Little Egret, Purple Heron and Black-crowned Night Heron. We also heard the hard-to-see Savi s Warbler. Naturetrek July 188 1

We continued walking on the boardwalk and the habitat changed a little bit as we got into the sandy scrub or semi dune area. This is a very interesting habitat as the local Mediterranean scrub blends with the marshy territory, bringing to us very interesting species such as Thekla Lark, Dartford and Sardinian Warblers, European Bee-eaters, Booted Eagle, Griffon Vulture Short-toed Snake Eagle, and a very distant Marsh Harrier. After a great birding time around this lovely area, we drove back to El Rocio in order to take a break and get ready to enjoy drinks and nibbles followed by a nice dinner! Day 3 Thursday 5th April Doñana National Park (Royal Track & Marismas) Today was another beautiful day in the lovely El Rocio, but with a chilly wind blowing from the north. After breakfast we boarded 4x4 vehicles and set off with our park guide into the core area of Doñana National Park, along La Raya Real (Royal Track) which lies along the heart of the park. Firstly we searched carefully for Iberian Lynx along a very pristine area of Mediterranean forest. Despite our efforts none were found, but we did see a lot of Black Kites, a nice pale morph Booted Eagle and Iberian Magpie, amongst others. We kept driving along the track and entering the border area between the marisma and the Mediterranean forest, checking man-made rabbit burrows built using eucalyptus stumps which allow them to breed well. Here a Little Owl was seen perched on top of the stumps, which was a good tick for our trip list! More birds such as Skylark, Crested Lark, Common Kestrel, Calandra Lark, Hen Harrier, Griffon Vulture and a great group of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse were also seen very well along the track in the flooded heathland. After checking out the man-made rabbit burrows once again on the way back, we continued driving back to La Raya Real (main track) and drove into another restricted area known as Hierba Buena, where we had a nice time watching Eurasian Hoopoe, Woodchat and Iberian Shrikes, and Sardinian Warbler, amongst others. We then drove back to El Rocio to have lunch and take a little break. After lunch we did the second leg of our excursion within Doñana National Park, driving further afield and towards the flooded canals were we found plenty of wildfowl such as Red-crested and Common Pochards, Northern Shoveler, Black-eared, Little and Great Crested Grebes, Purple Heron, Glossy Ibis, Eurasian Teal, Garganey and Greater Flamingoes. Plenty of Squacco Herons were also seen, together with Black-crowned Night Heron and Collared Pratincole, and plenty of waders such as Ruff, Dunlin, Little Stint and others. It was a great afternoon and eventually we drove back to our hotel, where later we enjoyed a delicious dinner. Day 4 Friday 6th April Doñana National Park (Dehesa de Abajo - Isla Mayor - FAO) Today we explored the north-eastern boundary of Donana National Park. After an early breakfast we left El Rocio, heading to Villamarique de la Condesa. Here we made a small diversion to the area of Dehesa de Abajo, where we had fantastic views of two very rare Marbled Ducks. We then entered the national park through Isla Mayor, watching a lot White Storks, Grey Herons and hundreds of Black Kites. The first stop brought us a flock of Spanish Sparrows, several unstoppable Zitting Cisticolas displaying right above our heads, plenty of Crested Larks and a pair of Eurasian Hoopoes displaying for us in a lovely way. We continued our drive watching 2 Naturetrek July 188

Crested and Short-toed Larks coming in and out of the hedges onto the track. A Lesser Short-toed Lark not far from there made us stop in order to watch this overlooked bird. Plenty of Calandra Larks were also seen. Very excited by our sightings, we continued a short distance and parked the vehicles in order to start walking along the track to enjoying the marismas. There were hundreds of noisy Glossy Ibis, very active nesting in the Tamarisk species trees, and sharing them with beautiful Purple Herons and very noisy Great Reed Warblers, both of which we also enjoyed watching! We continued walking under a warm but enjoyable sun, watching many birds such as Red-crested Pochard, Greater Flamingo, Eurasian Spoonbill, Spanish Yellow Wagtail, Western Swamphen (previously known as Purple Gallinule), Woodchat Shrike, Corn Bunting, Northern Wheatear and a couple of Lesser Kestrels. We then continued our drive towards the Valverde Visitor s Centre (FAO) where we had a good break, enjoying our lunch while watching very close Greater Flamingoes, nesting Glossy Ibis, and Cattle and Little Egrets which looked like Christmas trees amongst the flooded marisma. Black-crowned Night Heron, Avocet, Purple Heron, Eurasian Coot, and Little and Great Crested Grebes were seen here too. We also had great views of Common Redstart, Great Reed Warbler and Common Sandpiper, and lovely views of Black-necked Grebe. We had another pair of the rare Marbled Ducks here: fabulous! Lots of Grey and Purple Herons, Black Kites, Common Kestrels, White Storks, Common Buzzards and others were seen along the road. We then had our final stop of the day on the way back to El Rocio. We stopped at the Isla Mayor area where we had great views of Whiskered Terns, Marsh Harriers, Common and Red-crested Pochards, Mallard, Greater Flamingoes, and Little and Great Crested Grebes. Back at El Rocio we relaxed in the late afternoon and later enjoyed delicious local nibbles, drinks and a superb supper! Day 5 Saturday 7th April El Rocio Seville airport Return to UK We started today very early to get to Seville airport in time to catch our mid morning flight to London Gatwick. At the airport and after a very warm Adios amigos! we were ready to start our journey back to the UK and home, after a great trip with plenty of good moments, adventures and new friendships! Marbled duck by Andrew Lapworth Naturetrek July 18 3

Species Lists: Birds ( = recorded but not counted; h = heard) April Common name Scientific name 3 4 5 6 1 Greylag Goose Anser anser 2 Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna 3 Gadwall Mareca strepera 4 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 5 Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata 6 Northern Pintail Anas acuta 7 Garganey Spatula querquedula 8 Eurasian Teal Anas crecca 9 Marbled Duck Marmaronetta angustirostris 10 Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina 11 Common Pochard Aythya ferina 12 Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa 13 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix h 14 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 15 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus 16 Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis 17 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus 18 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 19 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 20 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 21 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus 22 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 23 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides 24 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 25 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 26 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 27 Great Egret Ardea alba 28 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 29 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 30 Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus 31 Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus 32 Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus 33 Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus 34 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus 35 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 36 Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus 37 Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus 38 Red Kite Milvus milvus 39 Black Kite Milvus migrans 40 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 41 Western Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio 42 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 43 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra 44 Eurasian Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus 45 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 46 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta 47 Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus 48 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 4 Naturetrek July 188

April Common name Scientific name 3 4 5 6 49 Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus 50 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 51 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa 52 Common Redshank Tringa totanus 53 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 54 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 55 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 56 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 57 Little Stint Calidris minuta 58 Dunlin Calidris alpina 59 Ruff Calidris pugnax 60 Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola 61 Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus 62 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis 63 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus 64 Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica 65 Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia 66 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida 67 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Pterocles alchata 68 Rock Dove Columba livia 69 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 70 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 71 Tawny Owl Strix aluco h 72 Little Owl Athene noctua 73 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 74 Common Swift Apus apus 75 Pallid Swift Apus pallidus 76 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 77 European Bee-eater Merops apiaster 78 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 79 Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dryobates minor 80 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 81 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni h 82 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 83 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 84 Iberian Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis 85 Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator 86 Iberian Magpie Cyanopica cooki 87 Eurasian Magpie Pica pica 88 Western Jackdaw Coloeus monedula 89 Carrion Crow Corvus corone 90 Northern Raven Corvus corax 91 European Crested Tit Periparus ater 92 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus 93 Great Tit Parus major 94 Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus 95 Thekla Lark Lullula arborea 96 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 97 Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla 98 Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra 99 Lesser Short-toed Lark Alaudala rufescens Naturetrek July 18 5

April Common name Scientific name 3 4 5 6 100 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 101 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 102 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum 103 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 104 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti 105 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus h h 106 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 107 Iberian Chiffchaff Phylloscopus ibericus 108 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus 109 Eurasian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus h h 110 Melodious Warbler Iduna opaca h 111 Savi's Warbler Locustella luscinioides h 112 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis h h 113 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 114 Garden Warbler Sylvia borin h 115 Dartford Warbler Sylvia communis 116 Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans 117 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 118 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes 119 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla h 120 Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor h 121 Common Blackbird Turdus merula 122 Bluethroat Luscinia svecica 123 Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos 124 Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus h h 125 European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola 126 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 127 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 128 Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis 129 Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus 130 Spanish Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava 131 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 132 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis 133 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs 134 European Greenfinch Chloris chloris 135 Common Linnet Linaria cannabina h 136 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 137 European Serin Serinus serinus 138 Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra 139 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia Mammals 1 Red Deer Cervus elaphus 2 European Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus 3 Iberian Hare Lepus granatensis Reptiles 1 Viperine Snake Natrix maura 6 Naturetrek July 188