Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 125 Woven textiles Principles, developments and applications Edited by K. L. Gandhi The Textile Institute WP WOODHEAD PUBLISHING Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi
Contents Contributor contact details Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xiii xi Part 1 Yarns and weaving technology 1 1 Types and properties of fibres and yarns used in weaving 3 P. K. Hari, Consultant, India 1.1 Introduction 3 1.2 Types of natural and regenerated fibres 4 1.3 Types of synthetic fibres 5 1.4 Key fibre properties and how they are measured 8 1.5 Comparing fibre properties 11 1.6 New types of fibre 12 1.7 Yarns and their properties 15 1.8 Types of yarn for spinning 19 1.9 Short staple spinning yarns 21 1.10 Long staple spinning yarns 22 1.11 Physical properties of woven fabrics 24 1.12 Mechanical properties of woven fabrics 26 1.13 Effects of fibre and yarn properties on the use and application 1.14 Effects of fibre and yarn properties on woven textiles: of woven fabrics 27 apparel and sports textiles 31 1.15 Future trends 32 1.16 Sources of further information and advice 33 1.17 References 33 2 Yarn preparation for weaving: winding 35 2.1 Introduction to yarn preparation 35 V
vi Contents 2.2 The winding process 36 2.3 Types of winding machines 42 2.4 Terminology commonly used in the winding process 49 2.5 Cone types and build 52 2.6 Manual, semi-automatic and fully automatic winding machines 52 2.7 Hazards from knots during weaving and knitting processes 56 2.8 Yarn splicing for knot-free yarns 58 2.9 Applications of splicing techniques 61 2.10 References 61 3 Yarn preparation for weaving: warping 62 3.1 Introduction 62 3.2 Direct warping 62 3.3 Indirect/sectional warping 67 3.4 Warping creels 68 3.5 Tensioning units of creels 75 3.6 Thread stop motion 79 3.7 Single-end warping machines 82 3.8 References 84 4 Yarn preparation for weaving: sizing 85 4.1 Introduction 85 4.2 Characteristics of a good sized yarn 97 4.3 Size mixtures: composition and quality 98 4.4 Effect of size on adhesion between fibres in the yarn structure 100 4.5 Size paste preparation: cooking 102 4.6 Sizing machines 103 4.7 Yarn stretch during sizing 114 4.8 Automation controls of sizing machines 115 4.9 References 115 5 The fundamentals of weaving technology 117 5.1 Introduction 117 5.2 Primary loom mechanisms 119 5.3 Secondary loom mechanisms 120 5.4 Auxiliary loom mechanisms 121 5.5 Temples 122 5.6 Shedding mechanisms 124
Contents vii 5.7 Different types of shed 136 5.8 Classifications of plain and automatic shuttle looms 138 5.9 Drop box looms 140 5.10 Weft insertion on shuttle looms 140 5.11 Weft insertion on shuttle-less looms 143 5.12 Multiphase weaving 157 5.13 References 160 Part II Woven structures 161 6 Woven structures and their characteristics 163 J. Wilson, Consultant Designer, UK 6.1 Introduction 163 6.2 Representing woven fabrics 163 6.3 Weaving 166 6.4 Colour and weave effects 169 6.5 Sett 171 6.6 Weaves 173 6.7 Introduction of extra threads 186 6.8 Double and treble cloths 187 6.9 Repeating patterns 188 6.10 Centring 190 6.11 Drafting and lifting 192 6.12 Denting 199 6.13 Combining weaves 200 6.14 Fabric types 202 6.15 Future trends 203 6.16 Sources of further information and advice 203 6.17 Bibliography 204 7 Computer aided design (CAD) systems for woven textile design 205 P. Sinha, University of Huddersfield, UK and University of Manchester, UK 7.1 Introduction 205 7.2 Computer aided design (CAD) and the global textiles industry 206 7.3 Key issues in the use of computer aided design (CAD) for woven textile design 206 7.4 Necessary expertise and skills training for woven computer aided design (CAD) textile designers 211 7.5 Costs incurred in using computer aided design (CAD) 213
viii Contents 7.6 Computer aided design (CAD) software applications 214 7.7 The impact of computer aided design (CAD) on the supply chain 220 7.8 New products and markets and future trends through the use of computer aided design (CAD) 223 7.9 Sources of further information and advice 226 7.10 References 227 8 Modelling the structure of woven fabrics 229 B. K. Behera, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India 8.1 Introduction: fundamentals of woven structure 229 8.2 Fundamentals of design engineering 232 8.3 Designing of textile products 233 8.4 Design engineering using theoretical modelling 235 8.5 Modelling methodologies: deterministic models 237 8.6 Modelling methodologies: non-deterministic models 247 8.7 Authentication and testing of models 256 8.8 Reverse engineering 257 8.9 Future trends in non-conventional methods of design engineering 258 8.10 Conclusions 260 8.11 References 261 9 3D woven structures and methods of manufacture 264 M. Amirul Islam, Bally Ribbon Mills, USA 9.1 Introduction: 3D woven structures, applications and advantages 264 9.2 Weaves: basic and 3D 283 9.3 Manufacturing technologies 294 9.4 3D weaving calculations 308 9.5 Applications and future trends 311 9.6 Acknowledgements 311 9.7 References 312 Part III Applications of woven textiles 315 10 Woven textiles for automotive interiors and other transportation applications 317 J. M. Hardcastle, Consultant, UK 10.1 Introduction 317 10.2 Automotive applications of woven fabrics 318 10.3 Woven fabrics in car interiors 322
Contents ix 10.4 Fabric constructions and finishing processes 330 10.5 Other transport applications 337 10.6 Future trends 342 10.7 Acknowledgements 344 10.8 Sources of further information and advice 344 10.9 Reference 344 11 Woven apparel fabrics 345 N. A. Redmore, University of Huddersfield, UK 11.1 Introduction 345 11.2 Performance requirements of apparel fabric 345 11.3 Types of woven apparel fabrics 348 11.4 Practical design applications 361 11.5 Application examples 363 11.6 Sources of further information and advice 365 11.7 Reference 366 12 Woven fabrics for geotextiles 367 A. Rawal, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India 12.1 Introduction 367 12.2 Production and classification of geotextiles 368 12.3 Selection of fibres for woven geotextiles 370 12.4 Production of woven geotextiles 371 12.5 Specifications of woven geotextiles and their essential properties 373 12.6 Applications of woven geotextiles 380 12.7 Future trends 383 12.8 Sources of further information and advice 384 12.9 References 384 13 Hollow woven fabrics 387 X. Chen, University of Manchester, UK 13.1 Introduction: overview and potential applications 387 13.2 Principles of hollow woven fabrics 388 13.3 Properties and performance of structures and materials based on hollow woven fabrics 391 13.4 Modelling of hollow woven fabrics 398 13.5 Possible applications of hollow fabrics and future trends 411 13.6 Sources of further information and advice 412 13.7 References 412
x Contents 14 Woven textiles for medical applications 414 S. Rajendran and S. C. Anand, University of Bolton, UK 14.1 Introduction 414 14.2 Application of woven textiles in managing acute and chronic wounds 416 14.3 Woven vascular prostheses and meshes 424 14.4 Application of woven structures in hospitals 431 14.5 Other medical applications of woven structures 436 14.6 Conclusions 439 14.7 References 439 Index 442 Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012