info SEWING TECHNICAL INFORMATION 25 AUTOMOTIVE PERFECT SEAMS FOR AUTO INTERIORS The automotive industry in particular demands ever higher standards as regards the appearance of both functional and decorative seams. From the luxury high-end sports car to the general-purpose family saloon, the workmanship of seams has to be just right, no matter what the material used for the car interior. The quality of seams is also paramount when it comes to passenger safety. On-going innovations in this field and Groz-Beckert's many years of experience in the automotive sector provide the assurance of perfect seam quality and maximum customer satisfaction.
info SEWING 25 AUTOMOTIVE INTERIOR TRIM The right needle point for the targeted seam appearance in leather LR - point Cuts the leather to the right at a 45 angle in the direction of sewing. Slight to medium slanted stitch formation, depending on the leather. The sewn thread is slightly elevated. Stitch holes are easily visible. Suitable for medium to short stitches. LL - point Cuts the leather to the left at a 45 angle in the direction of sewing. Very straight stitch formation. The sewn thread is slightly elevated. Stitch holes are largely filled. Suitable for medium to short stitches. S - point Cuts the leather in direction of sewing. Straight line stitch appearance. In certain leathers and with particular stitch lengths, deep-set stitches are formed in the leather. The stitch holes are longitudinal and easily visible in the seam. Suitable for medium to long stitches. For the production of decorative seams on soft to medium/hard leather. Suitable for all types of leather. For the production of straight seams with a continuously closed seam appearance. Suitable for almost all customary types of leather. For the production of seams with relatively deep-set, straight stitches. Suitable for soft to medium hard leather. PAGE 2
info SEWING 25 DIFFERENT MATERIALS IN USE LEATHER FABRIC MATERIAL COMBINATION MATERIAL COMBINATION KNIT FABRIC ARTIFICIAL LEATHER Needle point shapes for textile interior trims SD - point R - point RG - point FFG - point Round point with semi-polished triangular end tip. Straight line stitch appearance. The sewn thread is slightly elevated. Cuts leather with a slight triangular shape. Suitable for short to medium stitches. Standard round point Round point with small ball tip Slight ball point For straight seams (slightly irregular). For soft leather (garment leather). For multi directional applications. For medium hard to hard leathers as well as for medium to long stitch distances DH - as well as D - points are suitable. Standard for lock stitch (FST 301). Wovens, artificial leather, coated wovens. Standard for chain stitch (FST 401 and 406). General knit fabrics, cotton wovens and/or synthetic fabrics. PAGE 3
info SEWING 25 GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR NEEDLE THICKNESSES AND POINT SHAPES Material: Leather Point shape: * Decorative seams: LR, LL, S (defined stitch formation), SD, DH Tip: Use of the SAN 12 needle Functional seams and multi directional sewing operations: R, SD, RG Needle thickness: ** Nm 110 Nm 140 Nm 90 Nm 110 (dependent on sewing thread thickness) Artificial leather Decorative seams: LR, LL, S (defined stitch formation), SD, DH Functional seams: R, SD, RG Nm 110 Nm 140 Nm 90 Nm 110 (dependent on sewing thread thickness) Material combination Leather / artificial leather Decorative seams: LR, LL, S (defined stitch formation), SD, DH Functional seams: R, SD, RG Nm 110 Nm 140 Nm 90 Nm 110 (dependent on sewing thread thickness) Material cominations Woven fabric / felt Leather / felt Carton / felt DH, D DH, D Nm 110 Nm 140 Material combinations Leather / textile Artificial leather / textile, FFG Nm 90 Nm 120 Woven fabrics, FFG Nm 90 Nm 120 PAGE 4
info SEWING 25 FOR AUTOMOTIVE INTERIOR TRIMS Material: Knit and warp knit fabrics Point shape: * RG, FFG Needle thickness: ** Nm 90 Nm 110 Plastic piping Nm 120 Nm 140 Tip: Use of the SAN 5 needle Air bag Nm 140 Nm 180 Tip: Use of the SAN 5 needle Safety belt Nm 160 Nm 230 Tip: Use of the SAN 5 needle Floor mat Whipped Nm 140 Nm 230 Tip: Use of the SAN 5 needle * General needle thickness recommendation! Selection of needle thickness depends on the material and number of plies. ** General needle point recommendation! The selection of the point shape depends on the required stitch formation. PAGE 5
More and more often technical textiles require a varied combination of different materials (frequently coated or bonded with foam material). TECHNICAL INFORMATION 10 The requirement for durable and accurate seams places high demands on the sewing machine needle. The Groz-Beckert SAN 5 needle was developed to eliminate the known application problems related to the processing of such materials. Needle deflection Stitch hole sticking Irregular seam appearance. The titanium nitride coated needle of Groz-Beckert. info SEWING 25 info SEWING THE SAN 5 GEBEDUR NEEDLE AND ITS BENEFITS For more information on the benefits of the Groz-Beckert SAN 5 needle, please refer to our Technical Information "Sewing 10". SPECIAL APPLICATION NEEDLE SAN 5 DEVELOPED FOR THE SEWING PROCESS OF TECHNICAL TEXTILES GEBEDUR The manufacture of technical textiles increasingly entails a diverse combination of different materials. Seams are frequently required in extremely hard materials made of knit or warp knit fabrics which are glued or bonded with a. The requirement for durable, regular seams places stringent demands on the sewing machine needle used. The Groz-Beckert SAN 5 needle was developed with a view to avoiding familiar problems associated with these materials: Needle deflection Stitch hole sticking Irregular seam appearance The result: TECHNICAL DIFFERENCES STANDARD NEEDLE / SAN 5 LOOP GUIDANCE STANDARD NEEDLE / SAN 5 The Groz-Beckert SAN 5 needle produces a visibly more even seam appearance in every sewing direction. forwards backwards forwards backwards SEWING DIRECTION STANDARD SEWING DIRECTION SAN 5 The results of the SAN 5 development Hardness levels in comparison with the GEBEDUR coating The advantages High productivity due to less machine downtime Reduced production costs More security against skipped stitches Gentle treatment of the sewn fabric The titanium nitride coated needle from Groz-Beckert. The titanium nitride coating affords the Groz-Beckert GEBEDUR a high level of protection against wear and tear as well as damage. The results: High steam quality High productivity Extremely tight adjustment of the looper to the needle possible Low needle consumption High protection against needle wear through the use of GEBEDUR Optimum protection of the looper point COMPARISON: GEBEDUR (LEFT) AND STANDARD NEEDLES (RIGHT) AFTER TEST APPLICATION PAGE 6
20 TECHNICAL INFORMATION In the production of high-quality leather products, great value is placed on the perfect appearance of decorative seams. This is particularly the case in the fields of automotive engineering, upholstered furniture and accessories. The style of the stitches can be either slanted or straight, but the seam must always have an even appearance. Groz-Beckert has developed a special solution precisely for this purpose. Cutting point needle SAN 12, available in variants LR and S, fulfils these high quality demands for leather products. Another technical innovation from Groz-Beckert for uncompromising customer demands and product quality. info SEWING 25 info SEWING SPECIAL APPLICATION NEEDLE SAN 12 For more information on the benefits of the Groz-Beckert SAN 12 needle, please refer to our Technical Information "Sewing 20". SPECIAL NEEDLE SAN 12 PERFECT 2-NEEDLE DECORATIVE SEAMS Following the development of the new SAN 12 version of the Groz-Beckert cutting point needle range, the seam appearance of 2-needle decorative seams has been radically improved and matched, both in seams with slanting and straight stitches. This has been achieved with both the SAN 12 LR and also the SAN 12 S needles by precise alignment of the cutting geometry using a special blade surface. This is also the distinguishing feature of the SAN 12 needle compared to the standard version. Examples of uneven seam appearance when using standard needles Standard LR cutting point Standard S cutting point LR LR S S UNEVEN SEAM APPEARANCE WITH SLANTING STITCHES UNEVEN SEAM APPEARANCE WITH STRAIGHT STITCHES Examples of even seam appearance when using SAN 12 needles SAN 12 LR cutting point SAN 12 S cutting point LR SAN 12 LR SAN 12 S SAN 12 S EVEN SEAM APPEARANCE WITH SLANTING STITCHES EVEN SEAM APPEARANCE WITH STRAIGHT STITCHES Use of the SAN 12 LR: Blade Use of the SAN 12 S: Blade To achieve an even and To achieve an even harmonious seam ap- seam appearance with pearance with slanted straight stitches, the stitches, the SAN 12 LR SAN 12 S is used is used exclusively on exclusively on both the right-hand needle. needles. PAGE 7
23 TECHNICAL INFORMATION Groz-Beckert has set a new benchmark in customer service. Quick solutions to application problems through Sewing Expertise Centres world-wide. In this way Groz-Beckert achieves a closer connection to the customers. These Sewing Expertise Centres offer extensive knowledge in all areas of the sewing industry, from clothing over cars up to technical textiles. Experts in application technology develop solutions to specific problems and provide support in accordance with globally uniform standards for: Correct needle selection Process optimisation Quality assurance Fault analysis Employee training Alternative joining processes info SEWING 25 info SEWING TECHNICAL SERVICE FOR SEWING AND JOINING TECHNOLOGY ANALYSIS, ADVICE, SOLUTIONS For more information on the technical service for sewing and joining technology, please refer to our Technical Information Sewing 23 TECHNICAL SERVICE FOR SEWING AND JOINING TECHNOLOGY ANALYSIS, ADVICE, SOLUTIONS Groz-Beckert has set a new benchmark in customer services. Sewing Expertise Centers have been set up around the world which offer quick solutions to application problems. In this way, Groz-Beckert is forging closer links to its customers. These Sewing Expertise Centers offer extensive expertise in every area of the sewing industry, from clothing through cars to technical textiles. Experts in application technology are on hand to develop problem solutions and to provide support in line with globally uniform standards for: Correct needle selection Process optimization Quality assurance Fault analysis Employee training Alternative joining processes APPLICATION TECHNOLOGY, ALBSTADT, GERMANY To meet the specific needs of all its customers, Groz-Beckert offers service packages entailing different degrees of analysis and evaluation detail: Basic service Extended service Customer-specific service Problem analysis Basic examination Examination report with needle recommendations Problem analysis Detailed photographic documentation Statistically proven and documented test results Examination report with problem solving recommendations Problem analysis The testing scope and method are agreed individually with the customer Detailed photographic documentation Statistically proven and documented test results Examination report with problem solving recommendations EN 05.2013 GROZ-BECKERT KG PO Box 10 02 49 72423 Albstadt, Germany Phone +49 7431 10-0 Fax +49 7431 10-3200 contact-sewing@groz-beckert.com www.groz-beckert.com The depictions provided of our products are not to scale and are intended for illustrative purposes only. Consequently they make no claim to be an accurate representation of the original. = Registered trademark of the Groz-Beckert company group. = This publication is copyrighted. All rights reserved, in particular the right of duplication, distribution and translation. This publication or any parts thereof may not be reproduced or stored, processed, duplicated or distributed using electronic systems in any form or by any means whatsoever without the express written consent of Groz-Beckert.