A Profile of Tirupur Hosiery Units and Employees Satisfaction on the Working Conditions

A Profile of Tirupur Hosiery Units and Employees Satisfaction on the Working Conditions

CHAPTER III A PROFILE OF TIRUPUR HOSIERY UNITS AND EMPLOYEES SATISFACTION ON THE WORKING CONDITIONS 1 Introduction 2 Knitting Industry in India 3 Garment Export in India 4 Apparel Export Promotion Council 5 Knitting Industry in Tirupur 6 Garment Export in Tirupur 7 Employees Satisfaction on the Working of Tirupur Hosiery Units Conditions 8 Summary

48 1 INTRODUCTION 'Hosiery' generally refers to all knitted fabrics. 'Knitting' is used to describe the technique of constructing textile structure by forming continuous yarn into intermeshing loops. It was originally derived from the ancient word 'Nahayati' knitting by using needles with fingers may well have been practiced since 1000 B.C. The knitting industry is an unique and distinct part of the Textile Industry. In general. Textile units which manufacture knitted clothes do not manufacture woven fabrics^. Retrospectively, there has been a change from the manual knitting to the mechanical one, and now it has become electronic knitting. The professional education and updated information on this subject. Schools for preparing professional people, books and journals are the main factors that contributed to the tremendous development of the knitting field. Knitting has been practiced as a craft all over the world since time immortal. But the machine knitting was developed in Europe during the last part of the 16th Century. The diversification of the industry continued even during the 19th Century and the hosiery products gained popularity and came into general use only during this Century. Though knitting has been practiced-as a craft in many parts of the world since ancient times, what may be

49 called the machine-knitting was developed for the first time by Rev.W. Lee in 1550. Circular knitting machines were developed in 1816 but came into general use about the middle of the 19th Century only. By the beginning of the second world war, the knitting industry had a monopoly in the field of underwear, socks and stockings and woolen jerseys and sweaters, it also had a near monopoly of the sportswear market. Two major developments have Jieen responsible for the rapid growth of knitting in the post-war period. One is the development of synthetic filament yarn and the other is the development of high speed warp knitting machines. 2 KNITTING INDUSTRY IN INDIA The art of knitting, as a means of assembling yarn to make fabrics, was introduced into India during the beginning of this century. The first cotton knitting unit 2 was established in 1893 at Kidderpore near Calcutta. The hosiery industry gradually developed in and around Calcutta during the first world war and it got an impetus during Swedeshi movement. In 1902, the woolen knitting industry was established, while the spinning and weaving industries in India have been making rapid strides in terms of productivity, product quality and diversity of product. The hosiery industry in India, however, has remained technically backward. This is due to the fact that knitted fabrics are

50 totally unsuitable for traditional Indian clothes like dhothis and sarees. The knitting industry therefore had been producing only underwear garments till recently. However, with recent shift in the clothing habits in India knitted fabrics are becoming increasingly popular for outerwear garments also. The world wide great depression during 1930s affected this industry much. But later on, the second world war gave a boost to hosiery products. During postindependence period hosiery industries were set up slowly in parts of the country. The man made fabrics industry started expanding with the setting up of Rayan Plant in 1953. At the same time, a large number of knitting machines were imported in India. The year 1960 witnessed the beginning of synthetic fibre production and there has been a rapid growth and development of this sector during the last decade and we have seen the development of Nylon with Polyster, Poly Propylene and Acrylic fibres. In India the production of Nylon in 1962 and the development of criped nylon yarn increased the possibilities of manufacturing varieties of knitted fabrics for use as apparel. This encouraged the establishment of socks knitting units, circular knitting units and man-made fibre units.

51 Delhi in Northern India and Bombay in Western India produce most of the synthetic weft knitted fabrics. The warp knitted fabrics are produced in Surat in Western India and Amritsar in North-western India. The woolen knit goods are manufactured exclusively in Ludhiana in Northwestern India and 90 per cent of the Cotton knitting units are situated at Tirupur in the Southern India and at Calcutta in Eastern India. There are 10000 knitting units operating in India. The hosiery units are providing direct employment to nearly * five lakh people. The total export of hosiery products amounts to Rs.1600 crores per annum. About 75 per cent of knitting units in India can be classified only as cottage industrial units. Big units with an investment of Rs.5 million and above constitute only 5 per cent of the industry. About 65 per cent of the knitting factories are partnership concerns. Ownership by a single individual accounts for about 30 per cent of the units and limited companies and cooperative units accounts for the remaining 5 per cent. The industry can be divided into four main categories based on the fibre used for production. They are the cotton hosiery, the woolen hosiery, synthetic hosiery and acrylic hosiery. Operations of each category of the

52 industry can be classified under the following heads. Fabric knitting, cutting/tailoring/garment making and dyeing/bleaching/finishing. There are very few composite units where all the above operations are done under one roof. The majority of the industrial units are engaged only in one or the other operations mentioned above. The hosiery industry has distinct features of its own. The industry requires yarn of exclusive nature, which consumes large quantities of cotton viscose, polyster, nylon, woolen and acrylic yarn. The industry lends support to a large number of ancillary industries like packing, screen printing, elastic manufacturing and so on. A number of spinning mills have come up recently exclusively to manufacture hosiery yarns. ^ The knitting industry in India produces a wide range of products. The cotton knitting industry produces underwear, sports wear, casual wear and T shirts. Woollen hosiery produces Jerseys, Sports wear and half hose and synthetic hosiery produced shirtings, sarees and half hose. 3 GARMENT EXPORTS IN INDIA Garment industry alone plays a vital role in India's economy and substantially contributes 15 per cent to the country's export earnings. India's exports have reached a level of Rs.30,000 million in 1992. Nearly, one fourth of

53 the exports come from textiles including readymade garments4. It was just in the early 70's a few entrepreneurs who made little investment and plenty of dynamism towards heavily wooded markets of the developed countries. Today, India has become a major garment exporter. From the modest beginning of Rs.ll crores worth of exports in 1970, it has crossed over Rs,8,000 crores in 1992. Garments have now become the biggest foreign exchange earner. All targets set for this sector have been surpassed. India has about 2 per cent of the share in the world market in Clothing and Textiles. The major participants in the International Trade are Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea and China. Considering the fact that only 40 per cent of the International Trade in apparel is in cotton apparel and 80 per cent of India's apparel is in cotton garments followed by man-made (about 17 per cent) and woolens (about 5 per cent) in value terms. India's apparel export consists of mainly three categories namely millmade, knitted and handloom. Generally the exports in millmade as well as knitted goods are on the rise and handloom exports have been on the decline. In value terms, the millmade and the knitted sector shares around 75 per cent and 24 per cent respectively and the balance one per cent is the share of

54 handloom. As regards export items, most of them comprises of Ladies' Blouses, Skirts and Dress and Gents' T.Shirts. Mainly India's exports are with countries where India has entered into bilateral agreements under the MFA. The EEC is the biggest market for RMG from India followed by USA and others. Among the economic region, EEC is the largest buyer and USSR is the largest non-quota market. The other major non-quota markets are Japan, Switzerland, UAE and Australia. The German Exporters are concentrating mostly in the metropolitan cities in spite of the fact that production facilities are mostly in the small scale sector and cottage type units. Delhi and Bombay have been accounting for about 70 per cent. Some of the production centres in South are Madras, Bangalore and Tirupur. Calcutta used to be a production centre in the past but has not performed well recently. In fact during the year 1992 India had exported Rs.1130 crores worth of non-restricted garments to quota countries and Rs.1992 crores worth to non-quota countries. 4 APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL The Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) has been set up by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India with the object to promote, increase, develop exports all types of readymade garments excluding leather, jute and hemp, to undertake all export promotion measures, to

55 allocate and distribute quota, to send trade delegations and missions to foreign countries as well to survey export potential of readymade garments from the country, to conduct propaganda and publicity regularly and continuously, to cooperate with government and other organisations in the country and abroad with a view to further promote exports of readymade garments. To avail of all the facilities it is mandatory for exporters of garments and knitwears to become a member of the Council. Exporter can be registered at either one of the Council's Offices situated in South India - Madras, Bangalore and Tirupur. The AEPC being the main coordinator has developed an exclusive Industrial Estate (with close cooperation from the Tirupur Exporters' Association, Tamil Nadu Small Industries Development Corporation Ltd., and Larsen and Toubro Ltd. (ECC Construction Group) - in a total extent of 88 acres at Mudalipalayam, 9 kilometres away from Tirupur, in Coimbatore District, Tamil Nadu at a cost of Rs.13.5 crores in a record time of one year 157 Industrial Units each measuring 4000 square foot with foundation provision of two more floors - each unit of 4000 square foot located in a quarter acre plot with all infrastructural facilities on ownership basis.

56 5 KNITTING INDUSTRY IN TIRUPUR The first cotton hosiery unit in the South was set up by Basel Mission of German Missionaries at Kozhikode in Kerala towards the end of the last century. The pioneering concern was styled as Common Wealth Trust Ltd6. In Coimbatore, Sowerimuthu Chettiar and Sowdi Chettiar had started the first hosiery unit in Fort and in Oppanakara Street of Coimbatore during the years 1914 to 1920 for sending socks to Bombay Presidency and Bengal6. After 1920 they purchased hand driven Flat knitting machines from Kerala and. Bengal and manufactured plain knitted cloth with a width of 12 inches to 20 inches. These clothes were cut and stitched in sewing machines. The finished banians had been stitched as having uneven edges inside the banians. Hence they changed the mode of stitching with acquired knowledge from Ludhiana Hosiery Manufacturers. Only in 1925, the next banian factory was started by Chanf Haji M Abdul Raghuman Faheb at Tirupur. It was 7 named as Asad Knitting Company. He was considered as the father of the Knitting Industry in Tirupur. During the period from 1926 to 1929 one more factory came into existence in Tirupur and that was known as Baby Knitting Company, which was a partnership concern. After the advent of electricity in Tirupur in 1931 two more factories and a

57 weaving company came into existence. Due to the second world war, importing of knitting machines, needles and spare parts became almost impossible. Moreover as suitable hosiery yarn was not available, the entire hosiery industry was practically depending upon Madura Mills Ltd., for supply of hosiery yarn. By then the industry was getting defence orders for hosiery products, which supplied the cotton yarn on Quota System on the basis of number of machines held. After the second world war many hosiery factory owners imported latest knitting machines from Fulkara Machine Works of Japan and Atlas Knitting Company of New York. The hosiery units began to get bank aid, cheap labour, good hosiery yarn, power supply, relaxation in importing policy for knitting machines and knitting needles. As a result, many factories came into existence. In 1961, 229 units were in Tirupur. At present about 3000 knitting units are g functioning in Tirupur. The major share of units are functioning only at Tirupur, due to the favourable factors of production. Tirupur, the biggest hosiery manufacturing centre in India today, had been a little known hamlet some four decades back. Its present level of exports is exceeding Rs.1200 crores per year. This is a level of exports which is not even comparably achieved all other India by many times having even separate F.kport Promotion Councils, for

58 instance# Gem and Jewellery Exports, Silk and Art Silk Exports# Cotton Textile Exports are falling within the purview of Cotton Textile Export Promotion Council. It is because of such unprecedented growth ofthosiery manufacture in Tirupur that the word 'Hosiery' and the name 'Tirupur' have become synonymous to each other. In fact# in the world knitting industry and trade, Tirupur has begun to be known as 'Leicester of India' which is the birth place of knitting industry still occupies the pride place of being 9 the biggest hosiery manufacturing centre in the world. The annual turnover of hosiery products from Tirupur is about Rs.2000 crores though the labour shortage is 33.5 per cent. The hosiery industry in Tamil Nadu produces nearly 68 per cent of the cotton hosiery products of the total cotton hosiery production, in India. The hosiery industry is scattered in Salem, Thanjavur, Karur and Coimbatore apart from Tirupur. The population of the Tirupur town is four lakhs in 1992 and the area of the town being 27.63 square kilometres. This town consists of 29 nationalised commercial banks# which help the various sections of the society. This banian city has eight textile mills and eight sizing mills. Tirupur enjoys the benefit of good climate that is humidity# which keeps the yarn in fine form, during the process. The water available here is a great blessing to the

59 hosiery units. The water is hard by nature and this hardness is most suitable for bleaching purposes. Due to this favourable chemical composition of water# banian cloths get very good whiteness and shining. The process of bleaching in Tirupur is considered to 1»e the moat superior'in indie. That is why this banian city has a number of core and allied industrial units such as 210 bleaching, 300 dyeing, 250 steam calendering, and many screen printing, collar stitching, button stitching, box making, elastic and label producing units. The hosiery units at Tirupur are mainly concentrating on cotton hosiery products. The very economic and commercial strength of Tirupur town.lies in its hosiery products. More than one lakh workers are employed directly in hosiery industry. In addition to it, more than 2.5 lakhs workers are employed in core and allied works.in terms of equipment number of machines and output Tirupur accounts for 35 per cent of the national total. In Tirupur, due to size and nature of the factories, most of them are termed as owner managed concerns. Tirupur has yet to see professional management entering the hosiery industry. Most of the owner managers are very closely involved in the day to day affairs of their units and also look after the different ' ""PBactional areas harithiar Unlvarilty Library ENGQ 63753

60 like purchasing manufacturing and marketing. These ownermanagers may not be technically and academically qualified but have considerable practical experience of their materials, machines and products. Due to lack of professionalism, advancement does not easily penetrate in this industry. Majority of owner-managers resist diversification and modernisation which involves additional investment. They seem to be content with the limited profits which most of their units make. After the establishment of the hosiery factories in Tirupur, the surrounding villages have been developed to a greater extent due to the direct and indirect employment offered by hosiery industry. Thus the industry has proved to be a great boon to the town. This has paved the way for the establishment of many allied industries. Many manufacturers of sewing threads, labels, polythene covers, cartoons, elastic for briefs, knitting needles etc. have opened their own sales centres or engaged agents at Tirupur to. cater to the needs of the industry. Around 40 per cent of these are working in cutting, stitching and labelling sections as women workers and 20 per cent of these are working in damage checking, labelling, button stitching and folding the finished banians are child labourers.

61 6 GARMENT EXPORTS IN TIRUPUR The hosiery garments of Tirupur earn a considerable amount of foreign exchange. The Tirupur hosiery products are exported to U.S.A., Russia, U.K., Italy, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Denmark, Canada, Germany, Switzerland, France, Australia, Iceland, Japan, Sowdi Arabia, Singapore and Kuwait. There are 250 direct export units in Tirupur and the remaining units export indirectly through merchant exporters of Bombay, Delhi and Madras. They have representatives at Tirupur and these representatives contact the local units with samples and book orders. The hosiery units in Tirupur in these days are becoming export oriented. Table 1 shows the direct hosiery exports from Tirupur. TABLE 1 Direct Exports from Tirupur Year Value in Rs. in Crores Quantity in Lakhs 1985 18.6 172.09 1986 37.5 288.70 1987 74.48 391.69 1988 104.24 459.06-1989 167.39 614.03 1990 289.84 888.73 1991 433.14. 778.02 1992 744.68 1031.68

62 The main competitors of Tirupur Garment exports are Bangladesh, Pakistan and China. Though these countries are selling their garments in the International market a reduced price of 20 per cent, the world countries are in favour of our garments and by 1995 the projection of garment exports from Tirupur may be Rs.2000 crores. 7 EMPLOYEES SATISFACTION ON THE WORKING CONDITIONS OF TIRUPUR HOSIERY UNITS Generally, one of the factors deciding the job satisfaction is working conditions prevailing in the concerned unit. The level of satisfaction of employees on the various items relating to working conditions is presented in this section. The working conditions denote Cleanliness, Ventilation, Dust free condition and suitable Heat, Washing facility, Drinking Water, Toilet, First aid, Fire fighting equipment, Factory Building, Rest intervals and Leave facility of the selected units. In order to assess the level of satisfaction on the working conditions, the selected units are categorised on the basis of the type of organisation, nature of organisation and size of organisation. The level of satisfaction on various components of working conditions are studied for the employees of such category and they are presented below.

63 i Employees' Satisfaction on Cleanliness (Table 2) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the company type 86.30 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the cleanliness whereas only 59.32 per cent are satisfied in sole trading type of organisation. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the export units 75.37 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the cleanliness whereas only 63.92 per cent members of local sales units are satisfied. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among the three sizes, in the big size 100 per cent of the respondents are satisfied whereas the percentage declines with reduction in size of the units.

64 TABLE 2 Level of Satisfaction on Cleanliness Basis of Satisfied Dis- No Idea Total Classification satisfied Type of Organisation Sole Trading 70 (59.32) 16 (13.56) 32 (27.12) 118 Partnership 82 (75.23) 13 (11.93) 14 (12.84) 109 Company 63 (86.30) 4 (05.48) 6 (08.22) 73 Total 215 33 52 300 Nature of Organisation Export 153 (75.37) 14 (06.90) 36 (17.23) 203 Local 62 19 16 97 (63.92) (19.59) (16.49) Total 215 33 52 300 Size of Organisation Small 148 28 32 208 (71.16) (13.46) (15.38) Medium 64 5 20 89 (71.91) (05.62) (22.47) Big 3 (100.0) 0 0 3 Total 215 33 52 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentages

65 ii Employees' Satisfaction on Ventilation(Table 3) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the company type 79.50 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the ventilation whereas only 50 per cent are satisfied in sole trading type of organisations. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the export units 64.53 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the ventilation whereas only 59.79 per cent of members of local sales units are satisfied. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among the three sizes, in the small size 67.31 per cent of the respondents are satisfied whereas "the percentages decline with incniawe in the size of the units.

66 TABLE 3 Level of Satisfaction on Ventilation Basis of Classification Satisfied Dissatisfied No Idea Total Type of Organisation Sole Trading 59 (50.00) 10 (08.47) 49 (41.53) 118 Partnership 72 (66.05) 13 (11.93) 24 (22.02) 109 Company 58 (79.45) 7 (09.59) 8 (10.96) 73 Total 189 30 81 300 Nature of Organisation Export 131 (64.53) 18 (08.87) 54 (26.60) 203 Local 58 (59.79) 12 (12.37) 27 (27.84) 97 Total 189 30 81 300 Size of Organisation Small 140 (67.31) 16 (07.69) 52 (25.00) 208 Medium 48 (53.93) 13 (14.61) 0 R (31.46) 89 Big 1 (33.33) 1 (33.33) 1 (33.34) 3 Total 189 30 81 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentages

67 iii Employees' Satisfaction on Dust free Condition and Suitable Heat (Table 4) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the sole trading type 44.07 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the dust free condition and suitable heat whereas only 38.36 per cent are satisfied in company type of organisation. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the local sales units 43.30 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the dust free condition and suitable heat whereas only 41.38 per cent of members of the export units are satisfied. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among the three sizes, in the small size 54.81 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the dust free condition and suitable heat whereas the percentage declines with increase in the size of the units.

68 TABLE 4 Level of Satisfaction on Dust free Condition and Suitable Heat Basis of Classification Satisfied Dissatisfied No Idea Total Type of Organisation Sole Trading 52 (44.07) 14 (11.86) 52 (44.07) 118 Partnership 46 (42.20) 15 (13.76) 48 (44.04) 109 Company (38.36) 14 (19.18) 31 (42.46) 73 Total 126 43 131 300 Nature of Organisation Export 84 (41.38) 31 (15.27) 88 (43.35) 203 Local 42 (43.30) 12 (12.37) 43 (44.33) 97 Total 126 43 131 300 Size of Organisation Small 114 (54.81) 26 (12.50) 68 (32.69) 208 Medium 12 (13.48) 17 (19.10) 60 (67.42)' 89 Big 0 0 3 (100.0) 3 Total 126 43 131 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentage

69 iv Employees' Satisfaction on Hashing Facilities (Table 5) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the sole trading type 61.86 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the washing facilities whereas only 46.58 per cent are satisfied in the Company type of organisation. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the export units 58.13 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the washing facilities whereas only 43.30 per cent members of the local sales units are satisfied. c Relating to the Size of Organisation In the big size 66.67 per ceni_ of the respondents are satisfied with the washing facilities whereas only 57.21 per cent are satisfied in small size of the organisations.

70 TABLE 5 Level of Satisfaction on Washing Facilities Basis of Satisfied Dis- Mo Idea Total Classification satisfied Type of Organisation Sole Trading 73 (61.86) 24 (20.34) 21 (17.80) 118 Partnership 53 (48.62) 36 (33.63) 20 (18.35) 109 Company 34 (46.58) 30 (41.10) 9 (12.32) 73 Total 160 90 50 300 Nature of Organisation Export 118 (58.13) 59 (29.06) 26 (12.81) 203 Local 42 31 24 97 (43.30) (31.96) (24.74) Total 160 90 50 300 Size of Organisation Small 119 60 29 208 (57.21) (28.85) (13.94) Medium 39 29 21 89 (43.82) (32.58) (23.60) Big 2 (66.67) 1 (33.33) 0 3 Total 160 90 50 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentage

71 v Employees' Satisfaction on Drinking Water (Table 6) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the Company type 60.27 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the drinking water whereas only 40.68 per cent are satisfied in sole trading type of organisation. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the export units 60.59 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the drinking water whereas only 26.80 per cent members of the local sales units are satisfied. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among the three sizes, in the big size 100 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the drinking water whereas only 49.04 per cent of small size units are satisfied.

72 TABLE 6 Level of Satisfaction on Drinking Water Basis of Classification Satisfied Dissatisfied No Idea Total Type of Organisation Sole Trading 48 (40.68) 44 (37.29) 26 (22.03) 118 Partnership 57 (52.29) 35 (32.11) 17 (15.60) 109 Company 44 (60.27) 12 (16.44) 17 (23.29) 73 Total 149 91 60 300 Nature of Organisation Export 123 (60.59) 38 (18.72) 42 (20.69) 203 Local 26 (26.80) 53 (54.64) 18 (18.56) 97 Total 149 91 60 300 Size of Organisation Small 102 (49.04) 77 (37.02) 29 (13.94) 208 Medium 44 (49.44) 14 (15.73) 31 (34.83) 89 Big 3 (100.0) 0 0 3 Total 149 91 60 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentage

73 vi Employees* Satisfaction on Toilet Facilities (Table 7) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among three groups, in the partnership type 45.87 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the toilet facilities whereas only 21.92 per cent are satisfied in company type of organisation. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the local sales unit 39.18 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with toilet facilities whereas 38.92 per cent members are satisfied in the export units. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among the three sizes, in the small size 44.23 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the toilet facilities whereas the percentage declines with increase in the size of units.

74 TABLE 7 Level of Satisfaction on Toilet Facilities Basis of Classification Satisfied Dissatisfied No Idea Total Type of Organisation Sole Trading 51 (43.22) Partnership 50 (45.87) Company 16 (21.92) 67 (56.78) 50 (54.13) 57 (78.08) 0 118 0 109 0 73 Total 117 183 0 300 Nature of Organisation Export 79 (38.92) Local 38 (39.18) 124 (61.08) 59 (60.82) 0 203 0 97 Total 117 183 0 300 Size of Organisation Small,92 (44.23) Medium 25 (28.09) 116 (55.77) 64 (71.91) 0 208 0 89 Big 0 3 (100.0) 0 3 Total 117 183 0 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentage

75 vii Employees* Satisfaction on Factory Building (Table 8) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the partnership type 89.00 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with Factory Building whereas sole trading type only 70.34 per cent are satisfied. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the export units 82.27 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with Factory Building whereas only 71.13 per cent of the local sales units are satisfied. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among the three sizes, in the big size 100 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with Factory Building whereas only 73.03 per cent members are satisfied in the medium size of the organisation.

76 TABLE 8 Level of Satisfaction on Factory Building Basis of Classification Satisfied Dissatisfied No Idea Total Type of Organisation Sole Trading 83 (70.34) 9 (7.63) 26 (22.03) 118 Partnership 97 (89.00) 6 (5.50) 6 (5.50) 109 Company 56 (76.71) 15 (20.55) 2 (2.74) 73 Total 236 30 34 300 Nature of Organisation Export 167 (82.27) 14 (6.90) 22 (10.83) 203 Local 69 (71.13) 16 (16.49) 12 (12.38) 97 Total 236 30 34 300 Size of Organisation Small 168 (80.77) 13 (6.25) 27 (12.98) 208 Medium 65 (73.03) 17 (19.10) 7 (7.87) 89 Big 3 (100.0) 0 0 3 Total 126 43 131 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentage

77 viii Employees' Satisfaction on First Aid Facilities (Table 9) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the Company type 36.99 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with First-aid facility whereas only 13.76 per cent are satisfied in the Partnership type of organisation. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the export units 24.14 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with First-aid facility whereas only 17.53 per cent members are satisfied in the local sales units. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among the three sizes, in the big size 100 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with First-Aid facility whereas the percentage declines with decrease in the size of the units.

78 TABLE 9 Level of Satisfaction on First-Aid Facilities Basis of Classification Satisfied Dissatisfied No Idea Total Type of Organisation Sole Trading 24 (20.34) 21 (17.80) 73 (61.86) 118 Partnership 15 (13.76) 47 (43.12) 47 (43.12) 109 Company 27 (36.99) 20 (27.40) 26 (35.61) 73 Total 66 88 146 300 Nature of Organisation Export 49 (24.14) 40 (19.70) 114 (56.16) 203 Local 17 (17.53) 48 (49.48) 32 (32.99) 97 Total 66 88 146 300 Size of Organisation Small 34 (16.35) 53 (25.48) 121 (58.17) 208 Medium 29 (32.58) 35 (39.33) 25 (28.09) 89 Big 3 (100.0) 0 0 3 Total 66 88 146 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentage

79 ix Employees' Satisfaction on Fire-fighting Equipment (Table 10) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the Company type 50.68 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with Fire-fighting equipment whereas only 18.35 per cent are satisfied in the Partnership type of organisation. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the export units 32.51 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with Fire-fighting equipment whereas only 23.71 per cent members are satisfied in the local sales units. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among the three sizes, in the big size 100 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with Fire-fighting equipment whereas only 22.12 per cent are satisfied in the small size of the organisation. i

80 TABLE 10 Level of Satisfaction on Fire-Fighting Equipment Basis of Classification Satisfied Dissatisfied No Idea Total Type of Organisation Sole Trading 32 (27.12) 10 (8.47) 76 (64.41) 118 Partnership 20 (18.35) 23 (21.10) 66 (60.55) 100 Company 37 (50.68) 10 (13.70) 26 (35.62) 73 Total 89 43 168 300 Mature of Organisation Export 66 (32.51) 19 (9.36) 118 (58.13) 203 Local 23 (23.71) 24 (24.74) 50 (51.55) 97 Total 89 43 168 300 Size of Organisation Small 46 (22.12) 26 (12.50) 136 (65.38) 208 Medium 40 (44.94) 17 (19.10) 32 (35.96) 89 Big 3 (100.0) 0 0 3 Total 89 43 168 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentage

81 x Employees' Satisfaction on Rest-Intervals (Table 11) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the Company type 67.12 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with restintervals facility whereas; only 59.32 per cent are satisfied in sole trading type of organisation. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the local sales units 75.26 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with rest-intervals facility whereas only 55.67 per cent members are satisfied in the export sales units. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among the three sizes, in the medium size 80.90 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with restintervals facility whereas only 53.85 per cent are satisfied in the small size of units.

82 TABLE 11 Level of Satisfaction on Rest-Interests Basis of Classification Satisfied Dissatisfied No Idea Total Type of Organisation Sole Trading 80 (59.32) Partnership 67 (61.47) Company 49 (67.12) 48 (40.68) 42 (38.53) 24 (32.88) 0 118 0 109 0 73 Total 186 114 0 300 Nature of Organisation Export 113 (55.67) Local 73 (75.26) 90 (44.33) 24 (24.74) 0 203 0 97 Total 186 114 0 300 Size of Organisation Small 112 (53.85) Medium 72 (80.90) Big 2 (66.67) 96 (46.15) 17 (19.10) 1 (33.33) 0 208 0 89 0 3 Total 186 114 0 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentage

83 xi Employees' Satisfaction on Leave Facilities (Table 12) a Relating to the Type of Organisation Among the three groups, in the sole-trading type 78.81 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with leave facility whereas only 45.21 per cent are satisfied in the Company type of organisation. b Relating to the Nature of Organisation In the export units 72.91 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with leave facility whereas only 60.82 per cent members are satisfied in the local sales units. c Relating to the Size of Organisation Among three sizes/ in the small size 70.19 per cent of the respondents are satisfied with the Leave Facility whereas the percentage declines with the increase in the size of units.

84 TABLE 12 Level of Satisfaction on Leave Facilities Basis of Classification Satisfied Dissatisfied No Idea Total Type of Organisation Sole Trading 93 (78.81) 25 (21.19) 0 118 Partnership 8l (74.31) 28 (25.69) 0 109 Company 33 (45.21) 40 (54.79) 0 73 Total 207 93 0 300 Nature of Organisation Export 148 (72.91) Local 59 (60.82) 55 (27.09) 38 (39.18) 0 203 0 97 Total 207 93 0 300 Size of Organisation Smail 146 (70.19) Medium 60 (67.42) Big 1 (33.33) 62 (29.81) 29 (32.58) 2 (66.67) 0 208 0 89 0 3 Total 207 93 0 300 Figures in parentheses indicate percentage

85 TABLE 13 Level of Satisfaction on Overall working Conditions Satisfied Dissatisfied No idea Total 1 Cleanliness OBS 215 76 65 300 EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 20.41 24.48 2.83 2 Ventilation OBS 189 30 81 300 EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 6.01 28.00 4.22 3 Dust free OBS 126 43 131 300 Condition and EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 Suitable Heat CCS 6.55 14.45 65.08 4 Washing Facility OBS 160 90 50 300 EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 0.03 2.64 3.73 5 Drinking water OBS 149 91 60 300 EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 0.53 3.02 0.48 6 Toilet Facility OBS 117 183 0 300 EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 10.72 149.78 65.64 7 Factory OBS 236 30 34 300 Building EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 38.29 28.00 13.14 8 First-Aid OBS 66 88 146 300 Facility EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 53.72 1.95 9.84 9 Fire-fighting OBS 89 43 168 300 Equipment EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 30.26 14.45 163.64 10 Rest Intervals OBS 186 114 0 300 EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 5.00 18.78 65.64 11 Leave Facility OBS 207 93 0 300 EXP 158.18 76.18 65.64 CCS 15.29 3.87 65.64 OBS - Observed; EXP - Expected; CCS - Cell Chi-square

86 xii Employees' Satisfaction on overall Working Conditions It is observed from the Table 13 that the sample respondents have expressed their satisfaction in respect of the facilities like cleanliness, ventilation, washing facilities, factory building, rest intervals and leave facilities in the hosiery units. However, relating to other facilities like dust free condition and suitable heat, drinking water, toilet facilities, first-aid facilities and fire-fighting equipments, the sample respondents are not fully satisfied. 8 SUMMARY This chapter makes an attempt to analyse the profile of Tirupur hosiery units and the level of exports in the international level. This chapter has presented an analysis on the working conditions of employees prevailing in the hosiery units of Tirupur. It was observed that the sample respondents are satisfied with cleanliness, ventilation, washing facilities, factory building, rest intervals and leave facilities. And it was felt that employees are dissatisfied on Dust free condition and suitable heat, drinking water, toilet facilities, First-aid facilities and fire-fighting equipments.

REFERENCES 1 Parikh J E and Suket Parika V J Knitting in India-XXIX, New Delhi, Knitting Congress, 1985, p.325. 2 Study Report Hosiery Industry Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India, New Delhi, 1958, p.64. 3 Sivakumar V R and Ratnam TV Knitting Industry in India,* XXIX Knitting Congress, New Delhi, 1985, p.313. 4 Nagarajan V Paper on garment Exports and Procedures, Apparel Export Promotion Council, Tirupur, p.l. 5 Mohan Kandasamy P President, SIHMA, Dinamalar News Paper, p.6. 6 Kandasamy N Secretary, SIHMA, Personal Interview, Tirupur. 7 Balu D SIHMA. Bulletin, December 1986 issue, p.23. 8 Spider Palanisamy Spider Knitting Company, Personal Interview, Tirupur. 9 Rikhale Chand Jain SIHMA, Bulletin, 'Anna' of Indian Knitting Industry, Tirupur, Silver Jubilee, 1990.