Building Instructions P-51 BF109

Important information: Please inspect the plane before beginning to assemble to make sure you are happy with it. After assembly has begun you cannot return the kit. If you find a problem before beginning to assemble the plane you must contact us, please do not return to the dealer.lanier R/C is proud of the care and attention that goes into the manufacture of parts for its model kits. The company warrants that for a period of 30 days, it will replace, at the buyers request, any parts or material shown to the company s satisfaction to have been defective in workmanship or material at the time of purchase. No other warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, is made with respect to the merchandise sold by the company. The buyer acknowledges and understands that he is purchasing only a component kit from which the buyer will himself construct a finished flying model airplane. The company is neither the manufacturer of such a flying model airplane, nor a seller of it. The buyer hereby assumes the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyers use of the components or the finished flying model airplane, whenever any such damage or injury shall occur. Any action brought forth against the company, based on the breach of the contract of sale to the buyer, or on any alleged warranty there under, must be brought within 1year of the date of such sale, or there after be barred. This one year limitation is imposed by agreement of the parties as permitted by the laws of the state of Georgia. Introduction Thank you for purchasing the Lanier R/C Warbird Combat Plane. We believe we have one of the best combat designs for SSC available. It is very fast to build, and be very sturdy in combat. The flight charatristic of the plane allow you to be very aggressive because you can concentrate on your opponent and not on keeping the plane in the air. The roll rate is very quick, allowing you to quickly change from one knife edge to the other and be on your opponent very quickly. So get on with construction and go get some streamers. The construction of the two planes is exactly the same so some of the pictures will be of the P-51 and others will be of the BF109. The shape of the parts will vary but just follow the instructions for that particular part. 2

P-51 shown Parts list 1. Wing panels 2 2. Epoxy glass spars 4 3. Balsa Ailerons 2 4. Vacuum formed fuse halves 2 5. epoxy glass wing dowels 2 6. Coroplast Stab 1 7. Coroplast Fin 1 8. 1/8 Laser Cut Sheet 1 Stab mount (1) Fuselage sides (2) Nose ring (1) Wing dowel doublers (2) Elevator servo mount (1) 9. 1/4 Fuselage center support 1 10. 1/8 laser Cut Motor Mounts 2 11. Vacuum formed wing center doublers 2 12. Clear canopy (P-51 only) BF 109 has no canopy 13. Throttle servo mount 14. bamboo skewers 2 15. hardware bag 3

Wing Warbird Begin construction with the wing. Remove the wing panels from their cores and lay aside. stop tape 2 from center Using urethane glue or epoxy, glue the epoxy glass spars in each panel. If you use urethane glue, don t over do it because it expands as it dries. Brush a lite coat in the spar slots. 3M extreme application bidirectional tape Use b-directional tape to secure the spars in the slots while the glue dries. This will also keep the urethane glue from expanding out on the wing. Stop the tape 2 from the center of the wing so the spars can be joined by the center doubler later. Glue all four spars in the slot on both wings. You can also use clear duct tape which is available at Home Depot and Lowes. We recommend using pro-bond urethane glue which can be purchased at most any hardware store or building supply such as Home Depot or Lowes. Another name is Gorilla glue which is the same thing. Using the urethane glue, run a bead down the entire length of the spar slots and use a brush to make sure it coat the sides and bottom. Butt the wings together and block the tip up 1-1/8 to give the proper dihedral. 4

Warbird The wings are flat bottomed, Lay the cores on a flat surface with the roots butted together, if your table is not straight your wings will not be straight. You may have to shim one side to make sure the two halves are perfectly even with each other. Layout the position of the aileron servos on each wing panel. The front edge of the servo should be 1 behind the spar. The servos should be out from the center of the wing by the length of the servos wire. Lay a piece of wax paper over the center of the root so the glue does not stick the panel to the table when gluing together. Mix some 5-minute epoxy and spread on the root of both wing panels. Place the panels flat on the table with the tip blocked up and use masking tape to hold the panels together till the epoxy sets Make sure the left and right panel are perfectly aligned with each other and laying flat on the table. Use a sharpie marker and mark around the servo and down the length of the wire. slot for wire 5

The easy way to remove the foam from the aileron cutout and the servo wire channel, is with a soldering iron with a piece of #10 copper wire bent and formed into a loop. Make the end 3/4 wide and it will be just right for the servo cutout. If you don t have a soldering iron you can just dig it out with a knife. Cut the hole so the servo will be tight in the hole. It will be held in place by the foam itself. Press the servo into the slot, if necessary use silicone rubber glue on each end to make the servo tight so there is no movement. Use a piece of the bi-directional tape over the servo to secure in place. Repeat for the other wing. Fit the servo in the hole and run the wire down the channel to the center of the wing. Use masking tape over the channel to hold the wire in place. you must center your servo with the arm in place before installing the servo because you cannot get to it after it is installed. Make a cut out to clear the control horn. Trim locate the two vacuum formed center wing covers. They still have the flanges on them, so will need to be trimmed at the bottom edge of the flange. The covers have the dihedral molded in so there is a top and bottom. 6

locate the bottom cover, dihedral proper way, and center it on the wing. Mark a line down both sides. Use masking tape to hold the covers in place, both top and bottom, till the epoxy sets. Locate the top cover and mark the location of the aileron plugs and cut a hole to pull them through. Also mark down each edge. Remove the covers lightly sand the inside with 150 grit sandpaper. Mix some 30 minute epoxy and spread on the inside of the cover. Lay a bead of epoxy on top of the spars on both sides. Be sure the spars and the area of the cover that they contact have plenty of glue, the spars are not joined in the middle other than the doubler. 7 Locate the ailerons and align with the trailing edge of the wing. The end should be 1/2 out side the edge of the center doubler.

mark the location of the aileron using your sharpie marker. bi-directional tape Use the bi-directional tape and run a piece down the trailing edge of the wing wrapping around to the bottom side. Use a straight edge and a single edged razor blade and remove the foam along the line. The ailerons are hinged using the bidirectional tape. Cut a 3 piece and attach to the aileron at the center end with 1/2 extending past the leading edge. Fit the angle on the leading edge of the aileron against the wing trailing edge. This will have the aileron in the full down position. Leave 1/16 clearance from the center section of the wing. 8

Repeat the hinge taping at the tip of the wing making sure to keep the aileron tight against the wing trailing edge. The tip hinge tape should be 1-1/2 from the end of the aileron so that when you cut the tip to shape you do not cut away the hinge. Add three more hinges evenly spaced between the root and tip for a total of 5 hinges. The aileron is now hinged with no gap on the top surface. The trailing edge of the wing is thicker than the aileron on the bottom but at the speeds the.15 size plane flies it is not a problem. After all five hinges are installed on the top side, flip the aileron all the way over till the top surface of the aileron is laying flat on the top of the wing. Now add 3 pieces of tape to the bottom side at the same locations as the tape on the top side. Put the tape even with the trailing edge of the aileron and pull it tightly around the trailing edge of the wing. 9 Filament tape If you plan to only use the plane for sport flying you may want to skip this step. The filament tape added to the leading edge is for protection in collisions from combat. The tape add weight so for sport flying you don t need it. For the combat planes add four rows of 3/4 filament tape. Start with one down the center of the leading edge. Then put one on the top of the wing overlapping the center piece 1/8. Now add one to the

bottom surface of the wing overlapping the center piece by about 1/8. Now add another piece down the center of the leading edge again making it two layers thick. The best way to cover the wing is with packing tape. Most local stores only carry the clear and olive drab colored tape. It is available in most all colors. Lanier R/C stocks most colors if you want to order them. You can also cover the wing in rip stop nylon available at your local cloth shop. Some of the low heat shrink films will work fine. We will cover the method used with the packing tape since it is strong and inexpensive. BF 109 tip shown Locate the templates in the back of the instruction manual for the P-51 and BF109 wing tip shape. Using the proper one for your plane, mark the shape on the tip and cut to shape. This is best done with a band saw. This completes the construction of the wing. first row On the bottom of the wing start at the trailing edge of the wing, not the aileron. Flex the aileron down and let the covering go around the trailing edge. You can then start a piece at the leading edge of the aileron and cover it. Continue forward with the tape to the leading edge. Since the tip is not as wide as the root, you will need to over lap more at the tip. Let the tape over lap 1/4 at the root and adjust at the tip. 10

start the next row by overlapping about 1/4 to 3/8 of the row you just put down. Continue on to the leading edge. If you plan to paint the tape you must first sand it lightly with 220 grit paper to break the glaze on the tape. Wipe the surface down with lacquer thinner after sanding. You can now use one of the model paints like Luster Coat or Rustoleum enamel works fine. I have used krylon Camouflage paint and it is fuel proof and works fine. it is best to cover the bottom in a contrasting color for better visibility. On the top, start at the trailing edge of the aileron and simply pull a piece from the tip to the center section. Have the aileron in the full down position. The tape is 2 wide, so let it cover the aileron hinge line and it will seal the gap. After the wing is covered, drill a 9/64 hole in the aileron in line with the servo output arm. Drill the hole 3/8 back from the leading edge on the top of the aileron so it will be just at the rear of the tapered section on the bottom. Run thin CA into the hole to harden the balsa. Install the 6-32x1-1/2 bolt with washers top and bottom and the nut on top. Install the nylon pushrod end on top. Use one of the 2-56x10 pushrods, golden clevis and 2-56 jam nut and attach to the servo output arm. Center the servo and the aileron. Mark the location of the aileron horn and bend the pushrod 90 degrees Retain with one of the nylon snap-r-keepers. Repeat for the other aileron. 11

Fuselage construction notches even distance from lip of plastic Locate the two 1/8 laser cut motor mount doublers and the 1/4 center fuselage support. Next locate the nose ring and the vacuum formed fuse bottom. Glue the nose ring in the front of the fuselage using medium CA glue. Pay attention to the side marked top and don t install it upside down. Make sure the notches are aligned straight with the fuse because this is what aligns the center support. Laminate one of the doublers on each side of the 1/4 piece. You can use medium CA or epoxy. 12

Locate the four 3/4 dowel reinforcement disc and glue them to the inside of the fuselage crutch sides to reinforce the wing dowel holes. Make sure to make a left and right side. Place the crutch sides in the fuselage making sure they sit down in the wing saddle. Install the center assembly in the fuselage with the notches on the side fitted into the slots in the crutch sides. Put the center in place with the marks for the elevator servo mount to the top side. fit here Make sure the sides are pulled back and fit in the front of the wing saddle. Fit the front of the motor mounts into the nose ring. 13

fit here Pull the crutch sides in against the motor mounts making sure they fit in the cutout. Glue the sides to the mounts starting at the nose. Glue the mounts to the nose ring. Work from the front to the back gluing the sides to the center support. After the sides are glued to the center support, glue the sides to the fuselage in the wing saddle area. Make sure the plane is sitting on a flat surface and press the sides down into the wing saddle so as not to warp the fuselage. glue here Glue the elevator servo mount in place on the marks on the fuse center section. clip here The top half of the fuselage overlaps the bottom half 1/4 Clip the corners of the bottom half of the nose ring 1/4 to allow the top to fit forming the 2 nose ring. Glue the rear portion of the center support to the plastic behind the fuse sides. Mark the tail of the fuselage bottom at the top of the angle and cut along the line. This leaves a 3/8 flange to mount the fin. 14

Locate the 1/8 laser cut stab mount and glue to the inside of the fuselage top. Use CA glue. Fit the top half of the fuselage over the bottom half and hold in place with masking tape. Start at the nose and align the top straight over the bottom Sight from the front and make sure the fuse looks straight at the cockpit area. Move the top till the fuselage looks right. Trim the plastic at the rear of the fuselage leaving flange for mounting the fin. The raised portion on the fuselage where the fin mounts will need to be cut. Cut just the top off leaving a flange to mount the fin. The portion of the plastic in the stab saddle will need to be removed as shown above. Make sure the stab saddle is parallel to the wing saddle. Use small pieces of masking tape to hold fuse while you align it. 15

When satisfied with the fit, start gluing in the middle of the fuse over the wing saddle. Work from the middle to the tail then from the middle to the nose. A large squeegee work well to hold the seam down while applying thin CA along the seam. Cut the plastic away in the wing saddle. Cut at the bottom of the flange which leaves a lip rolled over the edge of the 1/8 fuselage sides. Mark the location of the dowel holes by reaching inside the fuse and pushing a sharp piece of wire through the hole in the plywood fuselage side. Drill the plastic using a 9/32 drill and install the epoxy glass dowels. Glue in place with CA. After both sides are glued down, use an x-acto knife and cut the plastic out of the nose ring and the engine opening. 16

Locate the stab and mount the control horn on the bottom side. Drill a 9/16 hole 1/4 behind the hinge line and 1/2 in on the end. Use the 6-32 x1-1/2 bolt two #6 washers and a 6-32 nut. Use a washer top and bottom and glue in place with CA glue after tightening the nut. Install the nylon horn fitting on top. mounting holes Locate the 3/32 x 6 elevator joiner wire. Bend each end at a 90 degree angle 1-1/4 long. Make sure it lies flat on the table. Adjust till it does. Fit the stab on the fuselage and center it. Mark the hole location and drill through the holes with a 1/16 drill into the fuse. Mount the stab using three #2 screws and flat washers. mounting holes Mark the location of the wire on the elevators. Use a 3/32 drill and make a hole in each elevator half to accept the joiner wire. Install the wire and run some thin CA down into the holes. mounting holes Fit the fin in place and mark the location of the mounting holes. Two holes in the dorsal fin and two in the rear of the fuselage. Drill a 1/16 hole through the flange in the fuselage and the fin at the same time and install a #2 screw. Repeat for the other three screws. 17

Radio Installation 3. Slip the assembly into the fuselage just in front of the elevator servo mount. Make sure the bulkhead with rear stamped on it is to the rear of the plane. Glue in place using CA. e-z connector on throttle arm 1. Locate the three pieces of the throttle servo mount. The bulkheads are marked front and rear. The servo mount plate is cut out for a mini servo and marked for a standard servo. 4. Install the elevator and throttle servo using the hardware supplied with the radio. 2. Glue the assembly together with the plate fitting in the notches in the bulkhead. 5. The Hayes, Great Planes or Thunder Tiger 4 oz. tank will fit into the front of the fuselage. 18

2. Locate the 1/4 x 11 wooden dowel. Drill a hole(.078 ) in each end 1-1/4 from each end. Use an e-xacto knife to cut a slot from the hole to the end of the dowel that will accept the 2-56 wire. 6. The tank will slide into the fuse over the throttle servo and fit between the wooden rails. Push it all the way forward and the protrusion on the bottom of the tank will fit against the rear of the motor mounts. Elevator pushrod 3. Insert the angled end of the elevator wire into the hole in the end of the dowel and press into the slot. Wrap the wire with string and glue in place with CA. threads 7 4. Take the piece of wire you cut from the elevator pushrod wire and bend a 90 degree angle in the end 1/8 long. Insert it in the other end of the dowel and wrap and glue it in place. 1. Locate the 2-56 x 15 pushrod and make a 90 degree bend 7 from the threaded end. Cut the rod off at 1/8. 5. cut a slot 3/4 long and 3/32 wide in the rear of the fuselage on the same side as your elevator horn for the pushrod to exit. It should be centered on the front edge of the stab and just below the seam in the fuselage. 19

6. Fit the pushrod in the fuse and exit the slot. Install a 2-56 nut and clevis on the end of the rod. Hook the clevis to the elevator horn. 8. Fit the pushrod in the arm and retain with the nylon snap-r-keeper. bamboo skewer 7. Center the elevator servo and make sure the elevator is centered. Mark the wire where it crosses the elevator arm on the servo and bend up at a 90 degree angle. Cut off at 3/8. Two bamboo skewers are included to stiffen the stab. Insert one into the flute in the coroplast just in front of the hinge line. Push it all the way in, it will extend past the center of the stab. Go to the other side and go 1 flute forward of the one on the other side so they will not hit in the middle. They will overlap in the center, one in front of the other. This will add strength to the center section. The bamboo varies a lot in diameter. If too tight you may have to sand a little then tap into place with a hammer. If loose just apply glue and insert and let the glue dry. 20

Motor Installation Install the engine between the beams and twist the motor to the right. This will give a small amount of right thrust which is all you need(1 degree).the top part of the nose ring will probably have to be removed to not interfere with the carb. Mark the location of the mounting holes and drill the mounts. Install 4-40 blind nuts and mount the engine using 4-40x 1 bolts (bolts and nuts not included). Use the 15 2-56 pushrod, golden clevis and jam nut and attach to the carb arm. Insert the other end through the e-z connector on the throttle servo and adjust linkage. For Combat flying I don t use a switch, one more item to break. You can use a dremel tool and cut a 1/2 long slot 1/8 wide in the side of the fuselage just above the forward wing hold down dowel. The battery lead and power lead from the receiver can be routed out this slot and plugged in when ready to fly. If you wish you can install a switch in the fuse side. The CG should be on the main spars at the side of the fuselage. Mark the location on the top of the wing next to the fuselage and invert the plane. If you don t have a balance stand, place one finger on the marks on each side and the plane should sit level or slightly nose down. Add weight if necessary to make it balance. The control throws should be 1/2 up and down on the elevator on low rate and 3/4 on high rate. The ailerons should be 3/8 low rate and 5/8 high rate. The elevator throw should be adjusted so that a full up elevator loop does not cause the plane to snap out. If the plane is snapping out in loops or tight turns, reduce the elevator throw. Trim the clear canopy to fit on the P- 51 and install using ZAP canopy glue. The ZAP canopy glue is white and dries clear and sticks very well to the abs plastic or paint. 21

P-51 tip BF109 tip