Question: There are 3 bars. I take it one is the feed bar and one is the take up. Does it matter which is which? What is the third bar in the middle for? Does any part of the quilt attach to it? Answer: The bar that is in the throat of the machine is the take-up bar. The middle bar can be for the quilt top. The belly bar can be for the quilt back. The batting is just fed in between and hangs down to the floor in front. Imagine the three rollers all inline as with my frame, it is the same principle. You can set up to quilt as in ether diagram. One way is in the called over the top (diagram below)
Question: Some commercial frames say they have a bar for the batting. Do you suggest making a sandwich first, pin it and then quilt? Or has anyone made your frame with a batting bar? If so how did they do it? Answer: A batting bar would be a good addition. I have not built one yet or heard of anyone else that added it to the frame in my plans. Question: One photo you have shows using a stylus to trace paper patterns. I assume these patterns just lay on the flat table top boards. Can you use the front board or is the back better? Answer: It would be best used in back as you cannot see the board in front with the quilt over it.
Question: I note your plans don t show how to attach a stylus or where to place it. Can you supply that information? Answer: This is my personal frame with a simple stylus made from a wire coat hanger. The panto sets on the 2X6 board and is simply taped down in spots with clear shipping tape. Question: Due to space constraints and the fact my wife will probably never make a quilt bigger than a Queen I was thinking of making an 8 long table. If I cut the conduit 8 in length how much shorter should I make the table? Answer: If you are going to do a queen size quilt you had better consider doing a 10 foot table. You will really need at least 10 inches or so on each side of the quilt to service the machine ( change bobbins etc.) Question: I see you use folding table legs. All your pictures show people quilting standing up. Is this the best? (for working and for comfort) Or is sitting easier? I could make the table without legs and clamp it to her work table. I just want her to be comfortable when quilting for long periods of time. Answer: It is best to stand and walk with your machine from the right to the left if you are following a panto from the rear of the frame. Or walk from the left to the right if you are stippling or free motion quilting from the front. If you are going to quilt sitting down you will need a rolling chair.
Question: You suggest using angle iron for the tracks. But you also suggest angle aluminum. I might prefer that for cost savings, lighter weight, and ease to work with. Have you had any feedback about using the aluminum, either pro or con? Answer: I feel aluminum is better because it is smoother. I have seen folks use suspended ceiling track which works excellent and also ceramic tile edge. Which ever you may choose needs to be seemless and smooth. You want the carriage movement as smooth as you can get it. Question: I see you make the gears out of wood. It looks like you used pine with a fairly big grain. Have you had any problems with teeth breaking off, either when cutting them out or when using the frame? I was thinking maybe to use a tight grain hardwood or a good plywood. Answer: I used poplar, it is a hardwood. I have found it best to cut out the gears with a small upright band saw because the blade is cutting in one direction. I have used a scroll saw also. The quilt is never pulled tight on the frame, actually better results come from the quilt locked into place fairly loose. Question: You only need gears at one end? Answer: Yes they merely lock the bars in place. They are actually called ratchets. Question: Some commercial frames have devices (clamps w/ bungee cords, straps with Velcro, etc.) to pull the fabric taunt from the ends of the frame. Do you suggest doing this? If so, has any method worked well for you? Answer: Yes this holds everything straight and nice. I use fabric strips pinned to the sides of my quilt and clamped to the top of my support arms. Again not real tight you will distort the quilt! Question: My wife has a Janome 6500. Is that about the same as your 1600? So would the 15 ½ from the back measurement for the support arm bracket be correct? I m not sure how to measure to determine that placement. Answer: Yes that measurement is for all shot arm quilters from the normal home machines with a 7 inch harp to the Janome with it's nine inch harp size. You will end up with a 12 inch quiltable work surface. Question: Have you found three and two wheels adequate for a smooth platform roll? I can put on more if you think it is better. Answer: My plans call for four rollers on the lower platform and four rollers on the upper platform and yes they are quit adequate. Question: Does the pattern tracing determine the placement of the handle control? I would like to mount the handle in the front if possible as it seems more natural. So I m back to wondering about where the pattern sits. Answer: I use a set of Handi-Handles with the bracket made by the same company. I attach my handles in the back for doing pantos and I mount them in the front for meandering and free motion work.
Question:You mention a SPST pushbutton switch. If you are using the Grace Speed Control do I need this? If so what does it do? Answer: No you don't use the switch if you get a Grace Speed controller. That switch was intended for use with the PVC handles in the plans if the customer uses an old AC machine and wishs to build his own on/off circuit. Question: If money is no object do you find the Handi Handles better than the Grace Speed Control? Or does it really matter? Answer: Either choice is good and limited to the machine application. Grace makes controllers for some machines and Handi- Handles makes the for others. I do like the bracket that Handi-Handles offers. Which by the way can be used with my PVC handles in the plans.