BEARING UPGRADE INSTRUCTIONS FOR RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPPLIES: Enduro Outboard Bearing Kit (chromium steel or ceramid hybrid) Enduro Outboard Bearing Puller/Press Tool Enduro Outboard Cup Removal Tool Ratchet Wrench w/ 1/2 Drive 8mm Allen Wrench Rock n Roll Super Web Grease Rubber-faced mallet Strap Wrench or Soft-Jawed Vise 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
1) For the GXP system, be sure you have the latest version of the Puller/Press, which includes a special bearing shim extractor/installer (pictured at right). Remove your chain before beginning... 2) Use an 8mm Allen wrench to extract the non-drive side crank arm. 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
3) Use a rubber-faced mallet to start the axle moving toward the drive side. 4) Remove the right crank assembly. 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
5) Use the Enduro Outboard Cup Removal Tool to loosen the non-drive bearing cup. This side has standard threads, so loosen by turning it counter-clockwise. The axle sleeve may or may not come out with the cup. If it does, pull it out of the cup and set the sleeve aside. Be sure and take note of any spacers, so that they can be reinstalled as required. 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
6) Remove the OE spacer/seal from the non-drive cup. WE WILL NOT BE RE- USING THIS SEAL. 7) Take the cup holder portion of the Puller/ Press Tool and set it upside down ( Enduro facing up) on a flat surface. 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
8) Place the outboard cup on top of the cup holder with the bearing facing up. 9) Insert the GXP shim extractor into the shim as shown. 10) Insert and hand-tighten the bolt. 11) Tighten the bolt using the 8mm Allen wrench until the extractor bottoms out against the bearing. At this point, the bearing shim will have been pushed completely out of the bearing. Remove the bolt. 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
12) You will find the reducing shim sitting on top of the cup holder. SET THIS SPACER ASIDE AS YOU WILL NEED TO USE IT WITH THE NEW BEARING. 13) Push the expander into the collet as shown. 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
14) Place the outboard cup into the open side of the cup holder with the bearing facing down. 15) Insert the expander and collet into the center of cup. The flanges of the collet with catch on the back of the bearing. 16) Insert the bolt through the expander and thread it into the cup holder by hand. 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
17) Use the 8mm Allen wrench to tighten the bolt and press the bearing out. Note that TruVativ likes to really glue these bearings in. If you have trouble keeping the cup holder from turning in your hand, you can use a strap wrench (see step 36) or pad the jaws of a vise and apply just enough pressure to hold it in place (DO NOT DISTORT THE CUP HOLDER BY OVER-TIGHTEN- ING THE VISE). 18) Remove the bearing cup and clean out any residual glue or grease. 19) Get a new bearing from your Enduro Kit. 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
20) Start the OE bearing reducer shim into the new Enduro bearing by hand. It won t go in far--just get it to start evenly. 21) Place the bearing, shimside down, on the BACK of the Enduro cup holder. 22) Insert the shim press through the bearing and inside of the shim, as shown. 23) Place the bearing support on top of the shim installer, recess down, as shown. 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com
24) Fully seat the shim by inserting the bolt through the support and shim installer and using the 8mm Allen wrench to tighten the bolt until the shim is fully seated. A fully seated shim will be bottomed out on the flange side and will extend about 1mm past the inner race of the bearing on the other side.
25) Place the empty non-drive side outboard cup into the cup holder with the threads facing down. 26) Place the new bearing (now with the shim pressed into it) into the outboard cup with the flange side of the reducer facing down.
27) Place the support on top of the bearing as shown. When oriented correctly, the reducing shim of the bearing will fit up into the recess of the support. This keeps the shim from getting pushed back out. 28) Insert the bolt, threading it into the cup holder by hand. Then, fully tighten with the 8mm Allen wrench to seat the new bearing into the outboard cup.
Note that the bearing is fully seated in the cup and the bearing shim still extends about 1mm past the inner race of the bearing. It is now ready to be installed into the frame. 29) Apply some grease to the cup threads and reinstall the cup (and any required cup spacers) into the non-drive side of the bottom bracket shell. Thread clockwise to tighten. WE WILL NOW TURN OUR ATTEN- TION TO THE DRIVE SIDE BEARING CUP.
30) Use the Enduro Outboard Cup Removal Tool to remove the drive side cup. Remember that the drive side is reverse-threaded, so turn clockwise to loosen. 31) As you remove the cup, take note of any spacers so that they can be re-installed as required.
32) Remove the OE spacer/ seal from the cup. We will not be re-using this seal. 33) Place the outboard cup into the open side of the cup holder with the bearing facing down. 34) Insert the expander and collet into the center of cup. The flanges of the collet with catch on the back of the bearing.
35) Place the bolt through the collet expander and thread it into the cup holder. Use the 8mm Allen wrench to tighten the bolt and press the bearing out. 36) Because TruVativ uses a rather strong adhesive to retain the bearings, the additional leverage provided by a strap wrench or softjawed vise may be required. You may even hear an audible crack when the bearing lets loose...
37) Clean the outboard cup as needed to remove residual adhesive or grease. 38) Take the other bearing out of the kit and place it on the 24mm side of the bearing guide.
39) Place the bearing and bearing guide into the cup holder. 40) Place the open side of the outboard cup on top of the bearing.
41) Place the support on top of the outboard cup with the extention side of the support inserted into the bearing cup. 42) Insert the bolt and fully tighten with the 8mm Allen wrench. Note that the bearing will not be fully seated into the cup at this stage. 43) Remove the outboard cup and the bearing guide part of the tool from the cup holder.
44) Put the outboard cup back into the cup holder with the threads facing down. 45) Place the support on top of the new bearing (as pictured at right) and install the bolt by hand. 46) Tighten the bolt with the 8mm Allen wrench to fully seat the bearing.
47) Re-install the drive side outboard cup into the bottom bracket shell. Use grease or anti-seize compound on the cup threads. If you did not install the sleeve with the non-drive side cup, remember to install it now! Also, be sure that any spacers previously used between the cup and frame are not forgotten. 48) Use the outboard cup tool to tighten the drive side outboard cup (turn counterclockwise to tighten). Proper torque vaue is: 25-30 Foot Pounds =300-360 Inch Pounds =34-41 Newton-meters =346-415 Kg-force cm
49) Take the orange silicone spacer/seal from the Enduro bearing kit. 50) Slide the seal onto the axle with the metal side of the seal facing toward the bearing. 51) Apply a generous coat of Super Web Grease on the metal side of the seal.
52) Start the axle into the drive side cup and bearing. 53) As you push the axle in, the seal will take its place inside the cup. 54) Center the axle and push it until the splined end comes through the other side and it bottoms out.
By way of explanation, the axle bottoms out when the step in the axle contacts the bearing reducing shim. The cup, sleeve, and seals are omitted from the pictures below for clarity. Axle Step Axle Step contacting the bearing shim
55) Place the special metal shim from the Enduro Kit over the end of the axle and up against the bearing. 56) Take the black spacer/seal from the Enduro Kit and apply a coat of grease on the metal side. Slide the seal onto the axle with the black silicone side facing out. 57) Properly align the nondrive crank arm and slide it onto the splines of the axle.
58) Use the 8mm Allen wrench to tighten the non-drive crank arm. After fully tightening, give that crank arm a spin and see how smooth your crankset was meant to be! Torque Values for the Crank Arm Bolt: 35-40 Foot Pounds =420-480 Inch Pounds =48-54 Newton-meters =484-553 Kg-force cm