OTHER TOOLS & SUPPLIES - Fat Eighth of fusible fleece - 1/4 yd of fusible cotton interfacing (22 wide) - 1 yd of piping in coordinating color - (1) 1 D-Ring - (1) 1 swivel hook - (1) 8 closed-end zipper - sew-on snap - paper printer - basic sewing supplies: - sewing machine (with zipper foot) - needle & coordinating thread - iron & pressing surface - scissors & fabric shears - straight pins - fabric marker NOTES 1. Please wash, dry & iron your cotton before beginning. 2. Unless otherwise directed, sew all seams with a 1/2 seam allowance. 3. Make sure to include all notches when cutting your fabric. 4. RST = Right Sides Together CUTTING 1. Print the Slanted Wrap Wallet Template (pp 9-19) at 100% size. Measure the Test Square on page 1 to make sure your pattern was printed at the correct scale. 2. Trim the pattern pieces along the marked borders, and join them according to the numbered triangles. Cut out the pieces. 3. Pin the template pieces to the appropriate fabrics as indicated on the pattern pieces. The backs of the templates should be against the fabrics Wrong Sides. The arrow on each pattern piece indicates the direction of the fabric s grain; if you re using a multi-directional fabric, just make sure that the arrow is either parallel or perpendicular to the selvage. Cut out the pieces in fabric.
PIECING THE FRONT Note: to get close enough to the piping s cord, we recommend using a zipper foot for this section. 1. Trim the tape of the piping to 1/2 wide, if necessary. 2. Baste the piping to the edge of Shell piece 1 with a 1/4 seam allowance as shown, against the fabric s Right Side. The cord should be 1/2 from the fabric s edge (ie. just outside your seam allowance when you join the Shell pieces). Trim the piping 1 longer than the fabric s edge as shown. 3. Sew the Shell 1 piece to the Shell 2 piece, RST, with their single notches aligned. Your seam should run snugly against the cord of the piping. Press the seam & piping tape to one side.
4. Baste the remaining length of piping to the double-notched edge of Shell piece 3, just as you did in Step 2. 5. Sew the piping edge of Shell 3 to the double-notched edge of the Shell 1 & 2 unit, lining up the notches. Press the seam & piping tape toward Shell 3. MAKING THE LINING 1. Tack the open end of your zipper closed by sewing several stitches between the tops of the zip teeth on either side, either by hand or with a wide zig-zag stitch, the length set to 0. If you re doing this by hand, we recommend sewing a couple of stitches with the hand wheel to begin with, to make sure your stitch is wide enough. 2. Place the zipper next to the top (longer) edge of your Lining Bottom piece, with the fabric s Wrong Side facing up and the zipper centered along its edge. Mark on the fabric where the zipper s teeth begin and end. 3. Sew the top edge of the Lining Bottom to the bottom edge of the Lining Top, RST, leaving a gap between the marks from Step 2 for the zipper. Press the seam open, including the gap.
4. Pin (1) side of your zipper s tape into the gap between the (2) Lining pieces, so that the center of the zipper is aligned with the folds of the Lining pieces. 5. Mount your zipper foot on the left side of your machine s presser foot. With the zipper partially open, sew down its left-hand side, with the teeth to the right-hand side of the needle. When you come to the zip s toggle, lower your needle into the work, lift your presser foot and slide the toggle past the needle, closing the zipper. Lower your presser foot and sew to the end of the zipper. 6. At the bottom of the zipper, lower your needle, lift your foot and turn the work 90 clockwise. Lower the foot and sew a few stitches across the bottom of the zipper, backstitching for strength. 7.Turn the work again, and sew up the second side of the zipper. When you approach the toggle, lower your needle, lift the foot, slide the toggle past the needle and lower the foot to resume sewing. Sew a few stitches across the top of the zip, backstitching as you did at the bottom. Note: for more details on how to insert a zipper, take a look at this tutorial on our website: http://camelotfabrics.com/installing-a-zipper.html 8. Fold back both Lining pieces, RST, to expose the seam allowance on (1) side of the zipper tape. Sew the Zip Pocket to the zipper tape along (1) 9 edge, with the fabric s Right Side against the zipper s Wrong Side. Repeat with the second 9 edge of the Zip Pocket piece, so the fabric makes a tube. 9. Sew the sides of the Zip Pocket closed.
10. Place the (2) Patch Pocket pieces on your pressing surface, Right Side down. Cover them with the cotton interfacing, glue side down, and press well to bond the layers. Peel the fused fabric away from your ironing board and trim the excess interfacing. 11. Sew the Patch Pocket pieces, RST, along their top & bottom edges with a 1/4 seam allowance. Clip the corner & curves, press the seams open and turn the Patch Pocket Right Side out. Press. 12. Topstitch the Patch Pocket s top & bottom edges with an 1/8 seam allowance. 13. Fold the Pocket in half, bringing the top & bottom edges together, and topstitch the layers together down the center axis. 14. Cut along the fold at the new bottom of the Pocket unit. 15. Baste the sides of the Patch Pocket to the Lining with a 1/8 seam allowance. The bottom & side edges should be aligned, and the back of the Patch Pocket against the Right Side of the Lining. 16. Transfer the snap marking to the Lining by placing the template over the Lining and poking a pin through the center of the snap mark. Mark the Lining with a pencil where the pin is inserted, and hand-stitch the post of your snap directly over the pencil mark.
STRAP & D-RING 1. Fold & press the D-Ring Tap in half, Wrong Sides facing, bringing the (2) shorter edges together. Unfold the piece. Fold each short edge to the center crease, and press. Fold the piece in half along the center crease once more, and press. 2. Topstitch 1/8 from each long folded edge. 3. Wrap the Tab around the straight side of your D-Ring, and baste the ends together. 4. Fold the ends of the Wrist Strap piece inward by 1/2, Wrong Sides together, and press. Fold, press & topstitch the Strap in the same way as the Tab. 5. Wrap the ends of the Strap side by side around the bar of your swivel hook and topstitch them in place as shown. 6. Baste the D-Ring Tab to the Right Side of the Lining as shown, half-way between the zipper and the top of the Patch Pockets.
ASSEMBLY 1. Place your Fleece Interfacing with its adhesive side against the Lining s Wrong Side. The edges of the fleece should be 1/4 in from the Lining s edges. 2. Pin the layers together around the edges. The pins should be inserted from the Lining side. 3. Make sure that the zip pocket is lying smoothly against the Lining Bottom, the press the Lingin well to bond it to the fleece. Begin by pressing only in the center, then remove the pins and press all the way to the edges. Be careful not to iron over the pins, or they ll get stuck! 4. Sew the Shell to the Lining, RST, with a 1/4 seam allowance. Leave a 4 along the top slanted edge. Clip your curves & corners, and press the seams open, including the gap. 5. Turn the work Right Side out through the gap and topstitch around the edge of the wallet, with a 1/8 seam allowance. 6. Fold up the bottom of the wallet so the Patch Pockets rest against the zipped pocket, and press. Fold the top of the wallet down over the folded layer, wrap its tip around the first fold, and press again to set all creases. 7. Mark on the Shell where the snap touches it, and hand-stitch the ring of the snap directly over that mark.
Lining - Bottom Cut (1) from Lining fabric (D) 1 Test Square 2 x 2 5cm x 5cm 8
1 2 9
Zipper Pocket Cut (1) from Fabric F 2 3 10
D-Ring Tab Cut (1) from Fabric B 3 4 Wrist Strap Cut (1) from Fabric B 11
4 Cut (1) from Fabric A Shell #1
8 Snap Placement Lining - Top Cut (1) from Lining fabric (D) 5
9 Shell #2 Cut (1) from Fabric B 5 6 Snap Placement
10 6 7 Shell #3 Cut (1) from Fabric C
11 Patch Pocket Cut (2) from Fabric E 7
12
12 13 interfacing Cut (1) from Fusible Fleece (with back of Template against adhesive side of Fleece)
13 Slanted Wrap Wallet