HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE:HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE 25/7/08 11:18 AM Page 30 The treated-pine frames of the table and benches are topped with sturdy blackbutt timber.
HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE:HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE 25/7/08 11:18 AM Page 31 SPRING OUTDOORS Entertaining table setting Build a solid table for entertaining and to double as a workbench PROJECT DARRYL CHAPMAN MAIN PICTURE SUE FERRIS DIY>$720 BUY ONE FOR $1575 SKILL>123456789 TIME>2 DAYS Versatile STYLING BOWLS AND PLATES, VASES, FABRIC AND CUSHIONS, ALL FROM IKEA. WWW.IKEA.COM.AU Simple joinery techniques and common building timber come together for this versatile indoor or outdoor table that s solid enough to seat a crowd or use as a workbench. Frames for the table and benches are built using light organic solvent preservative (LOSP)-treated plantation pine timber and finished with two coats of Dulux Weathershield in Charcoal Essence. The benchtop and tabletop are constructed from plantation blackbutt hardwood that can be oiled regularly to maintain the warm natural timber tones or left to turn silver over time. Apply two coats of a clear natural organic timber oil such as Ecowoodoil if the table is to be used for eating. WEATHERPROOFING These materials resist rot and vermin, stand up to the elements and require little maintenance, making them suited Darryl finished the tabletop in pigmented oil so it s UV-resistant and can be used for an outdoor work area. to the Aussie outdoors. Just sand the tabletop every couple of years to remove any stains and splinters. MEASURING UP The table is 1800mm long, 732mm wide and 735mm high. The benches are the same length as the table, 288mm wide and 450mm high. The table is a standard height, but adjust the long rails and top boards in the Cutting List to vary the length. Handyman SEPTEMBER 2008 31
HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE:HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE 25/7/08 11:07 AM Page 32 HOW TO Build the table UPPER HOUSINGS 90MM OFFCUT 1Cut the parts Mark up and cut all the parts of the table and frame to size, cutting the long rails and end-frame top rails with a mitre saw to 45º. TIP Place lengths of timber together to cut multiple matching parts and keep the sizes identical. 2Mark the rail housings On the legs, mark the lower rail housings 150mm up. Mark the upper housings flush with the top on the two outer leg faces. TIP Make all housings 3mm shallower than the rail thickness so the rails protrude slightly (see Diagram 1). 3Cut the housings Set the depth stop on a sliding compound mitre saw to match the rail thickness less 3mm, making a series of parallel cuts, removing waste with a hammer and chisel and smoothing. TIP Position an offcut next to the fence so the blade can make a full sweep. CLEARANCE HOLE 4Make clearance holes Mark screw positions and drill pairs of clearance holes at the ends of the long rails and end-frame rails. TIP A clearance hole is slightly larger than the screw. Bore through just the rail so the screw grabs the leg when tightened. 5Assemble the end frames Apply construction adhesive to the housing then position the end-frame top and base rails, check the frame for square and secure through the clearance holes using 75mm x 10g galvanised screws with self-countersinking heads. CLAMP 6Attach the long rails Stand the end frames up, apply adhesive to the housings and clamp the long rails, checking joints are tight and square, securing with 75mm screws. TIP Wait for the adhesive to dry before cutting away excess with a chisel. BASE CENTRE TOP LONG RAIL 7Attach the braces On the end-frame and long rails, mark the centre of the top and base braces, with corresponding marks on the braces. Apply adhesive and clamp, securing with 75mm screws. TIP Clamp both rail and brace to keep the brace centred while drilling. 8Finish the frame Leave the adhesive to cure before cleaning the joints using a sharp chisel and a block plane then apply two coats of self-priming exterior acrylic paint. TIP Paint the end grain of the mitred corners before assembling the table. 9Make the tabletop Position the blackbutt top boards on the frame, about 8mm apart, with an even overhang at the ends. Mark the position of the frame on the boards, drill pilot and countersink holes, securing with 75mm screws. 32 SEPTEMBER 2008 Handyman
HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE:HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE 25/7/08 11:08 AM Page 33 DIAGRAM 1 TABLE SETOUT TABLETOP BOARDS 1800 TOP S UPPER HOUSING 700 586 BASE 650 150 LOWER HOUSING CUTTING LIST (measurements in mm) PART SIZE NO. TABLE (PINE) Legs 700 x 88 x 88 4 Long rails 1700 x 90 x 32 2 End-frame top rails 650 x 90 x 32 2 End-frame base rails 644 x 90 x 32 2 Top braces 586 x 90 x 32 2 Base brace 1636 x 90 x 32 1 Top boards (BLACKBUTT) 1800 x 140 x 35 5 BENCHES (PINE FOR 2) Legs 415 x 70 x 70 8 Long rails 1700 x 66 x 18 4 End-frame top rails 270 x 66 x 18 4 End-frame base rails 264 x 66 x 18 4 Top braces 234 x 66 x 18 4 Base braces 1664 x 66 x 18 2 Top boards (BLACKBUTT) 1800 x 140 x 35 4 DIAGRAM 2 BENCH END VIEW DIAGRAM 3 BENCH SIDE VIEW 1800 BASE 644 288 18 70 70 3 264 3 35 66 183 66 100 450 Visit www.handyman.net.au for tools, materials and costs. 1554 70 70 3 1694 3 Handyman SEPTEMBER 2008 33
HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE:HM080827 OUTDOOR TABLE 25/7/08 11:09 AM Page 34 Fasteners MAKING THE BENCHES The benches are built the same way as the table (see Diagrams 2 and 3 for measurements). Adjust the timber size according to the Cutting List, and have the supplier cut the 70 x 70mm legs to size from the same 88 x 88mm treated pine. Position the lower rail housings 100mm from the bottom of the legs, and space the blackbutt top boards 8mm apart. Use 75mm x 10g galvanised screws for the table and 50mm x 10g to make the benches. Use construction adhesive to keep the table and benches entirely weatherproof. For the bench frame, attach the top braces about 560mm from either end of the long rails. Apply oil using brushstrokes going with the grain. Finishing the tops Use a belt sander and 180-grit belt to smooth over the tabletop and benches before applying a finish. TIP Totally clear oils aren t UV resistant, so use a pigmented oil. Allowing the top to turn silver results in a natural protective layer of dead timber cells over the surface, which suits the benches but isn t recommended for food serving. Outdoor furniture adhesive Construction adhesives are heavy-duty, multipurpose products that also seal the joints so are ideal for outdoor furniture. They re tough products for tradies but easy for the average DIYer to work with. They now come in tubes, cartridges, even pressure packs, so you don t need skill in using a caulking gun, and will stick most things together including plasterboard, aluminium, rubber, concrete, masonry and glass. GLUING UP FURNITURE Unlike regular wood glues, heavy-duty adhesives have gap-filling qualities and slow setting times of up to half an hour, which gives you time to get the pieces in position before it dries. WEATHERPROOFING JOINTS They adhere timber surfaces, sealing them to prevent moisture penetrating the joins. FOR THIS OUTDOOR SETTING We chose to use a water-based adhesive, but you could also try a solvent-based or general-purpose product. We applied construction adhesive with a caulking gun, but use a tube if you re not skilled. 34 SEPTEMBER 2008 Handyman