Cardboard Model Buildings Get more model kits from http://www.modelbuildings.org PRINTING & ASSEMBLY TIPS: These OO designs can easily be resized by reducing the print percentage as follows: OO scale is 100% HO reduce the print to 87% S enlarge the print to 118% Z reduce the print to 35% N reduce the print to 48% These kits download in the popular PDF format for easy printing. To open a PDF file you need Adobe Reader on your computer. The software is free to download from: http://get.adobe.com/reader/ These kits have been designed to fit onto A4 (210x297mm) paper. It is best to use a quality matt photo paper (90-120 gsm) when using an inkjet printer. Quality copier paper is ideal if you are using a laser printer. Heavier weight paper is not so flexible and can be difficult to bend, so lighter weight paper is usually the best. Most printers allow you to select the printing quality (using the Properties option). You could print a test copy using a low quality fast print setting. When printing out a final copy select the highest quality (or dpi ) setting as this will give you are better quality result. Higher quality printing is usually slower and uses more ink, so only use it for printing a final copy. IMPORTANT: These files are in OO scale and can easily be scaled to HO, S, Z, or N scale. Firstly, make sure you UNCHECK the Fit to page printing option because failure to do this could mean sheets get printed in the wrong scale. TOOLS NEEDED: A cutting mat of some kind
Steel ruler A small right-angled square Craft knife (replace the blade regularly as a sharp blade gives a cleaner cut) Glue stick (perfect for adhering paper to card) Clear all purpose glue (solvent free) Super glue or CA (perfect for the little fiddly bits) A pencil Felt tip pens (for touching up the edges and corners) Tweezers Fine sand paper (for smoothing any rough edges) Artist's matt spray Damp cloth (To wipe the glue off your fingers) MOUNTING ON CARD Using a glue-stick (there are various brands) is an easy non-messy way to apply the printed paper to card backing. The card will provide stiffness to give the building strength and help it keep its shape. The card from cereal boxes can be used. Cereal packs are ideal Before applying the paper to the backing card, apply a light spray of Artist Clear Matt Varnish or Artist Fixative to stop the ink from running. Artist Matt Varnish (there are various brands to choose from) will help protect the model during and after construction. Varnishing (several light coats) can help seal the model to protect it from humidity, dust, and fading. Apply the glue evenly to the backing card taking care not to apply it to all areas and not too thickly. An even coat will prevent wrinkles and bubbling. You should be able to gently lift the paper and reposition it before it dries (if required).
When you are satisfied with the position of the paper on the card backing, carefully roll the paper with a roller or squeegee. If you need to apply thin beads of glue or do spot gluing, then solvent-free glue with a fine tip nozzle (UHU works well) works well. Otherwise you could use white PVA glue from a squeeze bottle. Remember to press the paper down after gluing to prevent lifting. Super Glue is excellent for instantly gluing small parts. Some tweezers are handy for holding the model in place as you apply the adhesive. Be very careful with super glue (read the instructions on the pack) as it dries almost instantly so needs to be kept away from skin. This pack of 7 tubes cost just $2 at a local discount store. This twin pack of clear adhesive also cost just $2 and was useful to pour around the inside of the model after construction to add strength. CUTTING OUT THE MODEL Use a Craft Knife and steel ruler (to give a straight edge) to cut the model out. It is difficult to get a really straight edge using scissors. Remember to replace the blade on your Craft Knife regularly as a sharp blade gives best results. To avoid cutting yourself, use several light strokes rather than pressing hard on the knife to cut through the card. Score the surface of the paper lightly with the knife before folding should give a cleaner fold. Use sharp blades for cutting and dull blades for scoring.
CONSTRUCTION TIPS Fold all parts before gluing. Check to see the folded model fits together snugly before gluing. Cut around the model shape leaving plenty of white space. It is usually easiest to score and fold the areas that need folding before cutting the model shape to its final cut-down size. To get sharp folds, use a steel straight edge (a steel ruler works) to apply even pressure along your score line. A pair of thin needle nose pliers might also be handy. Internal bracing using card or foam core as a stiffener will help give strength to your models. You can cut triangular gussets or glue simple L shape pieces of card in place. This will help keep the model in plumb. Another idea is to double-up the thickness of the card walls by gluing another layer of card inside the model. QUICK TIPS When assembling small parts (eg. chimney stacks), consider mounting the printed plan on thinner cardboard to make folding easier. Super Glue (because it dries quickly) is handy in areas where joins are difficult to hold in place for any length of time. Use tweezers as a temporary clamp to hold the card while the Super Glue dries. Gently score along the fold lines to provide a clean fold. The model can be strengthened after assembly by pouring clear glue on the inside joints, or by gluing cardboard supports inside the model if required. Avoid the temptation to rush the assembly especially when gluing parts together. Don t just form the building by dropping a few droplets of glue and hoping holds and keeps its shape. It is usually best to glue one seam and then let it dry before gluing another seam, because this prevents the joins from moving when the glue is still wet. Having one strong solid seam will help the others fit tightly into place properly (without moving). So, take you time and you ll get a better result. Paper clips, masking tape, and clothespins can be handy tools for holding a model in place when gluing.
It is not always practical to bend cardboard into very long thin shapes, so materials such as balsa wood, wire, plastic rods and tubing can be very useful for making posts, beams, railings and building supports. In some situations clear acetate can be used to replicate glass. Just use your imagination to add your own finishing touches. The above photo shows items purchased from a discount store. The wooden skewers, toothpicks and matchsticks cost just $2 a packet and are ideal for posts, poles etc. The mini clothes pins (also $2) are perfect from holding the models
together when gluing. The balsa wood is soft, versatile and easy to work with. It is can be used inside a constructed model to add support if required. Some card buildings (e.g. silos) need curved parts, for which thinner card is used. To make a smooth curve gently pull the card up from under your ruler. WEATHERING TIPS Various methods can be used to weather the model and give it the appearance of age. One method is to scrape a tiny amount of artist pastels (brown and black) onto a piece of scrap card. Then (using an artist brush) dust tiny amounts onto the edges, corners, and surface of the constructed model as required. Slowly build up the layers before sealing the model with another light coat of Artist Matt Spray Varnish (don t spray too close). Felt-tipped pens can be used to touch-up edges after construction.
SAMPLE BUILDING CONSTRUCTION This small cabin was printed to a smaller scale to demonstrate how even very small models can be easily assembled. These photos show the construction process step by step. Use the card from an old cereal packet. For really small parts use thinner card. Glue the plan to the unprinted side of the cardboard. Smooth out the paper onto the card to avoid bubbles. A glue stick is perfect because it doesn t dry instantly so gives time to rearrange the positioning on the card if necessary. Spraying the model with clear matt varnish (not too close) is a good idea as it stops the ink running if your hands are wet. Carefully cut the designs out. You can make the white glue flaps bigger if you prefer. Gently score the fold lines to help give a clear sharp fold. Fold the pieces ready for gluing. Super Glue is sometimes easier to use on smaller models. Take care and avoid contact with skin as it does stick fast. Tweezers are a handy tool to hold the pieces together while they dry.
Use a glue stick or super glue to adhere the flaps to join the parts together. Clothes pins or tweezers are handy for holding things in place as the glue dries. This building is ready to have the edges touched up with felt tipped pens, but it already looks very realistic. A small piece of cotton wool was added to the chimney to add to the realism. You can add more glue or cardboard on the inside if you want to further strengthen the model. A final spray of clear varnish also provides protection. The following photos show the assembly of an OO scale church.
Buildings can easily be strengthened by adding cardboard supports after assembly (optional). A final touch-up with a felt tipped pen on the edges and a spray with matt varnish adds the final touches. Watch assembly videos for ideas at http://www.modelbuildings.org/videodemos.html Recommended resources: http://www.modelrailwayscenery.org/model-railroad-scenery.html http://www.ngaugelayouts.com/trains.html http://www.model-train-help.com