Quick Reference Guide For MoistureFree Certified Inspectors and Contractors

Quick Reference Guide For MoistureFree Certified Inspectors and Contractors Topic Page No. Critical Elements Of The Kickout 2 Bad Kickout Examples 3 Raintek Kickout By Demand Products 4 Inspecting and Repairing Double-Hung Windows 5 Inspecting and Repairing Casement Windows 6 Inspecting and Repairing Other Windows 7 Inspecting and Repairing Decks and Columns 8 Inspecting and Repairing Chimneys 9 Caulking and Joint Information 10 Field Inspection Check List 11 Common Problems with Repairs and Inspections 12 Version 9-03 Copyright 2003 Moisture Warranty Corporation All Rights Reserved 1

Kickout Flashings Six Critical Elements of a Kickout Flashing: Proper Kickout Flashing shown during installation, this Raintek kickout is clearly installed with all of the critical elements in place. 1. Placement Under last step/run flashing in direct contact with the wall and roof substrate, as shown. Lift last shingle to check if kickout is under step/run flashing 2. Sufficient Height and Angle At least 4 in height angle to roof should be 90 degrees. The angle from wall should direct water away from the wall at a 45 degree angle or more. 3. Clear Path For Water Exit Clear path for water drainage from the step/run flashing No caulking or blockage along bottom or front edge Proper Kickout Flashing proper angle and height, clear drainage path, sealed on back edge and confirmed under last step flashing. 4. Proper Construction Raintek Kickout (top photo) strongly recommended Demand Products 1.800.325.7540 Copper with soldered seams accepted. 5. Seal All Non-Drainage Areas Seal back edge with Dow 795 Seal all boxing/soffit elements below the kickout 6. Check Gutters End of gutter should not penetrate EIFS. Check for proper flow away from kickout area. Check for gutter obstructions or proper flow. 2

Kickout Flashings Kickout Flashing Done WRONG! WRONG Don t seal the inside edge of the kickout or the shingles to the EIFS. The water will back up into the wall. WRONG Surface mounted flashings or diverters will allow water to drain from the step/run flashing directly into the wall. WRONG Sealing the drain edge of the kickout blocks the water flow. This photo shows blockage at the front edge and along the shingles. Both areas must be cleared of blockage. DO NOT caulk the shingles to the wall. This can block the water flow away from the step/run flashing WRONG The backside of the kickout is not sealed and has a gap. Overflow over the kickout will drain into the opening or gutter back up will go into the wall. WRONG Gutter terminates inside lamina of the EIFS. Any gutter overflow will go directly into the wall cavity. WRONG Sealing or counter flashing the exterior roof run above a kickout will not stop the problem and can make it worse. Kickout Check List: 1. Probe test entire area under all kickouts. Map high moisture or damaged areas to indicate size. Always test the joist band(s) under the kickout. 2. Check the installation of every kickout. Look for proper size, shape, material and placement. 3. Make sure the water pathway from the kickout is clear. No caulking or blockage in this area. 4. Look at the back side of the kickout to make sure it is completely sealed. 5. Look under the last shingle to make sure the kickout is installed under the step/run flashing. 6. LOOK CLOSELY! Kickouts cause more damage than any other single element. Take detail pictures! 3

Raintek Kickout Flashing by Demand Products Dots indicate where the fasteners should be placed to hold the kickout Step/Run Flashing should come to this dotted line. Step/Run flashing must be on top of the kickout. 1 Thick EIFS will come to this line. DO NOT seal this joint on the front side. DO seal this joint to the EIFS on the backside using Dow Corning 795. The EIFS must be cut up off the shingle to allow at least a 3/4 gap for drainage, but only at the kickout location. Raising the EIFS off the shingles above the kickout area not required. This section can be trimmed to provide a better exterior appearance. DO NOT TRIM ANY OTHER AREA! INSPECTORS! MWC Needs This Information! Estimate Sq. Ft. Of Damage You can use the drawing tool in ReportMaker Pro to show the suspected area of damage (as shown) or simple give a square footage estimate in the report. Estimate % of Caulking Needed Good caulking around perimeter of this window Bad caulking around perimeter of this window When you detect high readings or damage under a kickout or window, MWC needs to know the suspected area of damage. Use your Wet Wall Meter to map the area or probe as necessary. You can show it on the photo or give dimensions in sq. ft. When some of the caulking on the home is good and some is bad, estimate the percentage of caulking that needs to be replaced. For example, If 20 windows out of 40 need caulking, indicate that 50% of the homes window need caulk. If all the caulking needs to be replaced indicate 100%. If only a few areas need caulk, simply suggest an appropriate percentage. 4

Double-Hung Windows Inspecting and Repairing A Double-Hung Window Check behind sash tracks to see if the miter joint area is primed and sealed. Use an acrylic latex primer and caulk to seal the miter joint behind the sash track. If the wood is damp, acrylic latex will hold better than silicone-based caulk. Always seal the vertical edge of the sash track and the stop. WRONG DO NOT seal the bottom of the exterior of the sash track since this can cause damming behind the track. Double-Hung Window Check List: Metal double or singlehung windows should be sealed at the miter joint. Make sure any weeps are open. 1. Check behind the sash track. This area must be primed and sealed. 2. Check the vertical joint of the sash track and the stop. This joint must be sealed. 3. Probe test under all miter joints. Map any wet or damaged areas. 4. Check the perimeter for proper caulking. 5. Take detail pictures of typical miter joints, perimeter joints, wood rot or any other area of interest on the window. 1. Carefully check under mullions and mullion caps. Mullions should be thoroughly sealed. 5

Casement Windows Inspecting and Repairing Casement Windows Mullions and mullion caps must be sealed. Always test under these areas. The miter joint of the casement window should be properly sealed. Mullions and mullion caps are a significant problem on all ganged window units. Check below these areas for moisture. Casement windows often leak at the miter joints. Seal these areas and check seals around the window. The closing mechanisms on casement windows can be a source of moisture penetration. Sealing these areas is difficult and a pan flashing may be required. Leaking casement windows often require the installation of a drain pan. Make sure the pan captures water from the miter and the perimeter joints. Casement windows typically have bulb seals around the sash stop. These can fail and allow moisture into the wall cavity. Casement Window Check List: 1. Check the entire perimeter of the window for adequate caulk joints. 2. Check the construction elements of the window (miter joints, sill, jamb, etc.) for proper sealant. 3. If moisture is located, map the area and show the size of the high moisture area. 4. If damage is found, indicate the size of the damaged area. 5. Take detail pictures on each elevation of typical miter joints, perimeter joints, wood rot or any other area of concern on the window. 6. Carefully check the mullion area for moisture. 6

Typical Windows Inspecting and Repairing Other Window Problems Failing or missing caulk joints around all windows and doors must be repaired. Some window heads may need drip edges installed to protect the window elements. Alarm sensors that are built into the window sill can leak. These should be sealed. Also, beware of wiring when installing pan flashings. Look above this area for the source of the moisture. This window has a built in weep in the miter joint area. DO NOT seal weeps. Do seal behind the sash track. Rot and high moisture at the head of the window is often caused by a leak from a window or kickout above the area. Replace rotted wood with no-rot material. Typical Window Check List: Barrier EIFS does not need head flashing, but a drip edge (see photo) can help protect elements of the head of the window. Leaking mullions may require this type of flashing. 1. Check the entire perimeter of the window for adequate caulk joints. 2. Check the construction elements of the window (miter joints, sill, jamb, etc.) for proper sealant. 3. If moisture is located, map the area and show the size of the high moisture area. 4. If damage is found, indicate the size of the damaged area. 5. Take detail pictures of typical miter joints, perimeter joints, wood rot or any other area of interest on the window. 7

Decks and Structural Attachments Inspecting and Repairing Decks When the deck joist band is mounted through the EIFS, there must be flashing over the band and behind the EIFS above the deck. Deck support columns can trap large amounts of water. Always check these for moisture and stability. Flashing over the column head is required. Deck joist band is attached to the surface of the EIFS No flashing required. Look for flashing between the deck boards. The flashing should extend at least 2 beyond the edge of the joist hanger. Scan test this entire area. Check for leaks coming from doors above this area. Probe test this area. End dams may be required. Areas under deck terminations often experience high moisture. End dams may be required to direct moisture away from the wall. When the deck is attached directly to the surface of the EIFS, flashing is typically not required. Seal the attachment bolts. Deck Check List: 1. Verify that flashing extends behind the EIFS and over the top of the deck joist hanger. 2. Probe test under the deck terminations end dams may be needed. 3. Tramex scan under the entire deck joist hanger 4. If deck is mounted to the EIFS, flashing may not be needed. 5. CHECK COLUMNS CAREFULLY! Scan the entire column and probe any suspect areas. 6. Determine what the substrate is under the deck (wood or CMU). 8

Chimneys Inspecting and Repairing Chimneys Check chimney cap for leaks and proper caulking Test this entire area. Missing kickouts on chimney chases cause the highest number of chimney failures. Always test the entire chase for moisture under a kickout location. Map any moisture or damage. Staining around the chimney cap can be a sign of moisture problems. The cap should cover the entire top of the chimney, including all EIFS elements. Some chimney chases transition from wood frame to CMU (masonry). It s important to determine if the chase is framed or is all or partially constructed of CMU. Test as high up on the chimney chase as possible. If you can t reach all the way to the top, test the area you can reach to determine if there is a water pattern present. This photo of chimney chase damage shows how the moisture pattern runs the entire length of the chimney. Since most chases don t have batt insulation, the water can run directly to the bottom. Probe test the bottom of the chases for stability. Chimney Check List: 1. Verify a functioning chimney cap. 2. Test kickout flashings the entire length of the chase. 3. Check the bottom of the chase for moisture and stability. 4. Determine where the wood framing of the chase ends and the CMU or foundations starts. 5. If you can t reach the top of the chimney, do the best you can to take detail pictures and make observations. 6. Check in crawl space at chase location to verify condition, if possible. 9

Caulking and Joints MWC recommends a raised-bridge joint when the surface of the joint needing caulk is flat. A piece of vinyl serves to create an edge and a fillet joint is applied on either side. Caulk should never be applied directly to EPS or other insulation boards. The instability of the board makes a good caulk joint impossible. Carefully select the appropriate caulk for the job. Check with the homeowner to get their opinion when using a color that is attempting to match the finish of the EIFS. Properly prepare your joints! Clean, dry joints are a must. Also, tape should always to used to give a neat, uniform appearance that allows you to work the caulk into the joint. Caulking and Joint Check List: A well installed fillet joint will provide excellent service life. Bond breaker tape or wax release should always be used on joints that need to expand. Dow Corning 790 and 795 are highly recommended by MWC. DAP Dynaflex 230 can be used when the joint must be painted. 1. Use Dow Corning 790 or 795 whenever possible. Use DAP Dynaflex 230 on painted applications. 2. Dow 790 has superior elasticity, but is not recommended for copper or brass. Dow 795 holds better to metal, vinyl, plastic, and other smooth surfaces. 3. PREPARE YOUR JOINTS! Always apply sealant to dry, clean surfaces with taped edges and bond breaker when needed. 4. DON T fill wood rot with caulk! Replace the rotted wood with no-rot material or use wood stabilizers and putty, if necessary. 5. NEVER retrofit a backer rod joint on residential construction! Replacing existing backer rod joints should be done to manufacturer s specifications. 6. Never use pure latex caulking on the exterior of a home. 10

I. Information Needed Accurate number of each type of window. Accurate number or each type of door. Accurate description of type of window and door construction. Number or one and two-story downspouts. Number of breaches to be caulked Type of substrate. Type of insulation board. Color of mesh. Quick Reference Guide II. Areas to be Probed Under each corner and mullion below all windows. Test joist band under the window when you find moisture or soft substrate directly under the miter. Three areas below all primary kickouts (including joist band). Three areas below all deck flashing terminations (under doors and corners if flashing is not continuous). Three areas under all chimney kickouts. Probe all areas where Tramex indicates high moisture. III. Areas To Be Probed To Locate/Map Wet And/Or Soft Wood. Window and door trim Joist band MWC Checklist of Required Inspection Report Information IV. Areas To Be Scanned With Tramex To Map Moisture. Beneath each window from corner to corner and to the floor band at corners and mullions. Under all primary and secondary kickouts. Under all chimney kickouts. Under the deck along the deck joist band test for moisture coming from doors or windows above. Under each end of shed and bay window roofs. Under the chimney cap, if possible. Below all hose bibs. V. Photographs Required (in order) Each elevation. Panels no wider than 20 feet. Windows for moisture test location. Close-ups of: EIFS trim. Trim slopes. All kickouts (primary and secondary) from above and below- located on the grid. Any/all damage (holes, cracks, etc.) All types of windows on each elevation. Window caulking condition on each elevation Window trim on each elevation. Soffit caulking on each elevation. Mesh color. Type of insulation board. Evidence of drainage system. All dead valleys. Deck attachments (is deck attached over or through EIFS?). 14. Deck flashing from above. 15. Deck flashing from below. 16. Previous repairs. 17. Window track on each elevation. 18. Window miters on each elevation. 19. Typical lights, attachments, etc. on each elevation. 11

Common Problems Observed In The Field Incorrect Repairs Frequently Observed In The Field 1. Caulking the sides of downspout straps rather than behind the downspout. 2. Deck flashing installed over the deck floor boards. 3. No differentiation between decks attached through the EIFS /attached over the EIFS. 4. Deck flashing not installed under deck access doors. 5. No end dams on deck flashing or head flashing. 6. Improper kickout installation A. Aluminum B. Bent galvanized metal. C. Installed over step flashing rather than behind. D. Not tall enough (4 inch minimum). E. Doesn't direct water from the wall far enough (2 inch minimum). F. No drainage between the kickout and the EIFS G. Non-draining side of the kickout left uncaulked. H. Inside edge of the kickout is caulked to the EIFS. I. Kickout attached to the outside of the EIFS. 7. Finding outside bottom edge of sash tracks caulked rather than the correct way of removing them and caulking behind them. 8. Vertical edge of sash tracks not being caulked all the way to the top of the window. 9. Wood frame behind the sash track not being primed. 10. Band-aid caulk joint being used on flush-mounted wood frame windows rather than installing a raised bridge joint. 11. Mullions not being caulked on ganged windows. 12. New caulking being applied to wood with peeling paint or to raw wood. 13. End of gutters installed in contact with or embedded into EIFS or stucco. 14. Corners of casement windows being caulked without opening the windows. 15. Fixed window corners being caulked forming a dam to hold water in. 16. No drip edge installed over ganged windows- especially over flush-mounted windows. 17. Bottom of EIFS left unsealed. 18. Decks not properly flashed. Common Inspection Problems Found In The Field 1. No probe testing of sheathing or joist band under windows, decks or kickouts. 2. No differentiation of attachment of decks over or through the EIFS. 3. Not enough photographs, particularly labeled and located, clear detail photographs that verify the condition of the various areas which are prone to leakage and damage. 4. Not enough photos showing windows, primary and secondary kickouts, window trim, chimney cap, chimney kickouts, 5. Not determining or identifying substrate under deck. 6. Not determining substrate of chimney. 7. Not determining sheathing. 8. Not showing if chimney crickets are visible? 9. Not indicating if there are any dead valleys? 10. Not showing damaged areas, holes, cracks, etc. 11. Not indicating if system is barrier, drainable, etc. 12. Inaccurate count of different types of windows. 13. Type and construction of windows unidentified (Fixed, double-hung, casement, sliders, wood, vinyl, vinyl clad, aluminum clad, etc). 14. Downspouts not counted or photographed so MWC can count them. 15. Areas of high moisture not mapped. 16. Not understanding that the second inspection is intended to verify that proper repairs were completed. A. Use the ERC to determine if repairs were made to MWC specifications. B. Use original inspection report to re-test areas with high moisture readings. C. Photograph repairs for inclusion in report. D. Show new moisture test readings in report. 12