Pinewood Derby Display Case

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Transcription:

Pinewood Derby Display Case Optional Door Design by Neil Fern - Pack 187

Exterior Dimensions 23 ½ (H) X 10 ½ (W) X 3 ½ (D) Front Back OPTIONAL Door Finished Interior Dimensions 21 7/8 (H) X 9 (W) X 3 (D) 4 Height between shelves Router groove ¼ off back edge - slightly deeper than the dado / router shelf cuts to allow for back panel Finished exterior 23 ½ X 10 1/2 Finished interior 20 3/8 D X 7 ½ W 2

Materials List Medium and fine sand paper / sponge. Two 12 wood clamps, wood glue. Cabinet Frame - Lumber Nominal Size 1 X 4 X 72 Actual Size ¾ X 3½ X 72 Shelf - Lumber Nominal Size ½ X 4 X 48 Actual Size 7/16 X 3½ X 48 Back Panel Nominal / Actual Size ¼ X 12 X 30 (Consider Menards SKU: 4794561) Notes: Think about the type of wood you would like to use. Mahogany, oak, cherry and pine could be some popular choices. Each type of wood has its own characteristics. Start thinking about how you want your finished product to look before you start purchasing lumber. Choose boards that are not warped. Longer boards tend to have more warp to them, inspect your lumber well before you go to the register. The back panel can be made from a plywood veneer however I found it difficult to find a piece that was clean and ended up using a cabinet end panel. Depending on your choices a finished product can range from $15-$35. Optional Door Door Frame - Lumber Nominal 1 X2 X 72 Actual ¾ X 1½ X 72 Plexiglas / Acrylic 1/8 X 12 X 24 Note: Actual thickness will be around 0.118. Small sheets can be hard to find, and you may need to buy a larger sheet. Hinges (non-mortice) & Screws Many hinge choices are available but consider Rockler part #028670 which are very low profile and help prevent door binding. Four ½ wood screws & clasp or hook to secure door shut. 3

Equipment Needed Not necessary but helpful Table saw with dado blades (up to ½ stacked blades for wide cuts) (You can use a table, miter, circular or hand saw for the rough cuts.) Necessary Router table with 1/4 bits for back panel groove. NOTE: 1/2 and 3/8 router bits are required if you are not using table saw dado blades. Optional Door requires 1/8 router bit and table saw laminate blade or laminate razor (cutting Plexiglas). Order of Operation / Rough Cuts Use a table, circular, compound or hand saw. Do not assume the factory ends are straight make a fresh / straight - clean cut. Cabinet Frame Using Nominal 1 X2 X 72 cut two 23½ pieces and cut two 10 pieces. Shelves Using Nominal Size ½ X 4 X 48 - RIP board reducing Actual depth from 3½ to 3. Cut four 9½ pieces. A table saw will make this easier. Back Panel Using Nominal / Actual Size ¼ X 12 X 30 cut down to 22½ X 9 7/8. Optional Door Frame Using Nominal 1 X2 X 72 cut two pieces 23½ (stile) and two 10½ pieces (rail). Using 1/8 X 12 X 24 Plexiglas / Acrylic - cut to reduce to 8 1/16 X 21 1/16. Note: be sure to use a blade or knife approved for Plexiglas. 4

Design Cuts Cabinet Frame Make the following cuts on both 23½ Cabinet Frame Side Pieces using a table saw with a dado blade or router. Notes The top and bottom cuts are different than the others in both size and depth than the other cuts. The piece is symmetrical. Once you have your table saw dado blade or router table set up for the right width and depth you can simply swing the board around to make the same cut on the opposing end AND other board. Make the same cuts on both pieces before changing bits / blades or depth. Remember measure twice and cut once, be precise. Blowout (tearing of wood fibers) can frequently occur when cutting across the grain of the wood. Putting a piece of tape over the back of the cut (end of cut) can help reduce the severity of the blowout. Sand cuts clean. Looking at the left column, top cut below (see highlight) Dado ½ (D) X 3/8 (W) means using a 3/8 dado stack or 3/8 router bit wide (W) set at ½ depth (D). 3/8 H Dado ½ (D) X 3/8 (W) 3/8 3/4 4 1/4 (D) X ½ (W) dado 4 1/4 (D) X ½ (W) dado 4 1/4 (D) X ½ (W) dado 4 1/4 (D) X ½ (W) dado 4 Dado ½ (D) X 3/8 (W) 3/8 H 4 3/4 5 1/4 9 1/4 9 3/4 13 3/4 14 1/4 18 1/4 18 3/4 22 3/4 23 1/8 Mark the narrow edge of your boards with these 12 measurements. These will be your shallow cuts. (See Picture 1) 5

Cabinet Frame cont. Make the following cuts for the top & bottom of Cabinet Frame - using a ½ table saw dado blade or ½ router bit. Take the two 10 pieces and remove ½ W X 3/8 D wide off each end of board. Sand cuts clean. See Picture 2 NOTE: Blowout can frequently occur when cutting across the grain of the wood. Putting a piece of tape over the back of the cut (END OF CUT) can help reduce the severity of the blowout. Router - Groove for Back Panel After completing all of the cuts above on all four pieces use a router (table) and run a groove down one side of each board with ¼ bit at ½ depth, centered at 5/16 off back edge (leave ¼ off back edge). NOTE it might be easier to make several shallow passes working up to a ½ depth. IMPORTANT: Do not router starting or ending 3/8 on the Cabinet Frame side pieces - stop in the cutout. Stop Side pieces Groove on side with cuts (See Picture 1 and 2) Top & Bottom Frame pieces Cut groove on side w/o cut outs Optional: if you would like to hang your display case you can use a keyhole cutter router bit on the back of both pieces, set depth of cut ¼. See Picture 3 Be sure to cut at the exact same location on both Cabinet Frame side pieces. 6

Cabinet Frame cont. ONLY if you are building the Optional Door - the door frame will obscure part of the PWD car on the lowest shelf. To correct his you can add a riser using a 7 remnant of the 1 X 2 lumber from the door frame. Screw the riser to the Cabinet Frame bottom piece with two 1 ¼ wood screws. Center left to right and front to back of groove. Groove View from top See Picture 4 View from side Center Cabinet Frame Assembly Add wood glue to all FOUR FRAME corners - clamp until glue sets. Slide Back Panel in to groove See Picture 5-8 7

OPTIONAL: Cabinet Door - Cuts Use pieces mentioned on page 4 - Order of Operation / Rough Cuts - two 23½ (stile) and two 10½ pieces (rail). To prevent blowout tape end of cut. Remove 1 ½ X 1 ½ X 3/8 D off each end on all 4 pieces (8 cuts in total) to create lap joint. To do this you may need to make several passes on your table saw with dado blade or router table. To keep your cuts uniform, pass each side - of each piece thru your saw or router before moving the fence for the next cut. Sand clean when you are finished with all 8 end cuts. Using a router create a groove down center of all 4 pieces with 1/8 bit - ¼ D. Do not router groove in starting or ending 1 of board (you will make a partial cut into the lap joint). This creates the gap for the plexiglass. Stop See Picture 9 8

OPTIONAL: Cabinet Door - Assembly Screw Rail Recess face down -------------------------- Recess face up Stile Glue Note grooves on boards. Add glue to stile lap joint. See Picture 10-12 Screw lap joint of rail and stile together (slightly countersink). Slide Plexiglas into groove. Add glue to stile lap joint, secure additional rail with screw. Plexiglas Screw Screw Glue 9

OPTIONAL: Cabinet Door Assembly Cont. Add glue to both ends of stile, slide stile under rails and into Plexiglas. Screw together and clamp until glue sets. Glue See Picture 10-12 Completed back of door Plexiglas Plexiglas Install hinges. Consider predrilling hinge holes, these screws tend to be very small and break easily. If the unit is not wall hung, consider raising the door a 1/16 off the bottom of the cabinet so that it can be easily opened while sitting on a flat surface. H i n g e h o l e s 10

Stain or paint to match your taste. If you would like to leave it natural I do suggest a varnish or poly to prevent long term warping. Install knob consider using a Pinewood Derby wheel and axel. Install Clasp to hold door shut. Load with your Pinewood Derby cars and enjoy your Pinewood Derby display case! I would love to see your completed display email to neildfern@yahoo.com 11

SAFETY GOGGLES, PAINTERS / DUST MASK Picture 1 Cabinet Frame side pieces - Shown with frame cutouts, shelf cutouts and router groove for back panel. Picture 2 - Cabinet Frame top and bottom shown with frame cutout and router groove for back panel. Picture 4 Cabinet Frame top and bottom shown with riser. 12 Picture 3 Cabinet Frame side pieces (side profile) Shown with optional keyhole cutout.

Picture 5 thru 8 Cabinet Frame assembly. 13

SAFETY GOGGLES, PAINTERS / DUST MASK Picture 9 Door Frame shown with router groove for Plexiglas and pre-drilled for screws and hinges. Picture 10-12 Door Frame - assembly 14

SAFETY GOGGLES, PAINTERS / DUST MASK 15