MLCS Instructions for Bowl and Tray Template Kit #9176/#9179 Tools Needed: Router 1-1/2 h.p. Minimum recommended with a 1/2 collet Forstner bit 3/4-2 recommended depending on template used Drill Press to use with the Forstner bit to reduce overall time and stress on the router Compass to lay out the exterior of the bowl/tray Bandsaw or Jigsaw to cut the exterior shape of the bowl/tray 3/8 (or preferred) radius Round Over Router Bit to ease the bowl/tray edges Getting Started: Glue up a minimum 18 x 18 (for a round bowl/tray) or an 18 x 24 (for an elliptical bowl/tray) blank out of stock, the thickness of your total bowl/tray height. You may use a stack of laminations to achieve the final thickness (2-3/4 is the maximum recommended thickness with this router bit collet extension combination) if thicker stock is not available or if you want a fancier look. In that case you may also consider using different species of woods to vary the color of the bowl/tray. Do not use biscuit joinery for this as Copyright 2012. MLCS Woodworking. Page 1
the biscuit slots may show when the material is removed around the interior and exterior of the blank. A simple edge-to-edge glue joint of boards that have been properly jointed is sufficient for this project. Just make sure to thoroughly cover all the mating surfaces with a sufficient amount of glue and avoid applying too much clamping pressure that could squeeze out enough glue to cause the bond to fail prematurely. Clamp this assembly up and allow the glue to completely dry before attempting to machine it. Using the template of your choice, layout the pattern on your stock and trace around the inside of the template (see figures A & B). If you are using a multi-section template reposition the template to complete each section of the bowl/tray until you have the full layout of your bowl/tray drawn on the top of your stock. Temporarily remove the template from the stock. figure A figure B Install the forstner bit in your drill press and remove the bulk of the interior area of your bowl/tray by making overlapping holes with the forstner bit. You do not need to cut right up to the layout lines, you will remove any remaining stock using the dish cutting router bit. Set the drill stop depth to allow the forstner bit to cut to a depth approximately 3/8 1/2 from the final intended depth of your bowl recess (see figures C & D). Fig. C Fig. D figure C figure D Copyright 2012. MLCS Woodworking. Page 2
Because of the large open areas in the template, you will need to add a large base to your router. This can be made from acrylic, MDF, hardwood or plywood. The base needs to be made out of a thickness of material that will remain stiff and not allow excessive flex with the router attached. This will keep the bottom of the recess flat and smooth and require less sanding at the end of the project. The size needed for this should be large enough so the router plate can span the template and be in contact with at least two opposing sides of the template, so that the router plate does not fall into the recess which would allow the bit to cut too deep ruining the bowl/tray. You will need to make a through hole in this for the router bit to fit through. You can use a forstner bit that is at least 1-3/8 in diameter to make the hole to allow the 1-1/4 diameter bit to fit through the plate (see figure E). You will need to drill and countersink mounting holes in this to attach the router to this new large router base. figure E Before you can rout to remove the remaining material from the interior sections of your bowl/tray, you need to secure the template to your blank. You can either use double sided tape or the templates have two countersunk screw holes in them to allow you to securely fasten them using screws. Align the template with your original layout lines and secure them using one of the above methods (see figure F). figure F Copyright 2012. MLCS Woodworking. Page 3
Depending on how much travel your router has, you may find the collet extension will cause the bit to protrude too far out of the router base for the first few passes. The cuts should be made using multiple passes, lowering the bit height between each pass and a safe depth for the first cuts should be about 1/4 increments. The top mounted ball bearing will follow the template and then the recess as you get deeper down into your bowl/tray. Only use the collet extension if and when you reach the travel limitations of your router, and need the extra reach the collet extension provides. Start routing and continue routing until you have reached the final depth of your recess, which should leave about 1/2 of material on the bottom of your bowl/tray. If you are using a multi-section template, reposition the template at the other recess locations and repeat the routing operations at all recess locations until you have completed all of the routing of the bowl/tray. You will now need to remove the outside area from around your bowl/tray. Use a standard compass to trace an outline of your bowl/tray. Set the compass for the thickness you would like the outer wall of your bowl/tray to be. Use the compass by running it along the inside edge of your recess and trace around the outside edges of each of the recesses to produce a uniform line around the exterior of your bowl/tray (see figure G). figure G Use a bandsaw (or jigsaw if you do not have a bandsaw) to carefully cut just to the outside of the line to make the exterior wall of your bowl/tray. The more accurate and careful you are with this step, the less sanding you will have to do to create a smooth even exterior to your bowl/tray. Use a sanding drum or palm sander, if available to smooth out the exterior of your bowl/tray. This will be much faster than hand sanding (see figure H). To finish the inside of the bowl/tray, a bowl sanding disc on a hand drill or drill press will allow you to finish sand the interior of your bowl/tray (see figure I). Copyright 2012. MLCS Woodworking. Page 4
figure H figure I You can choose to use a round over or chamfer profile around the inside and outside perimeter of your bowl/tray if you wish to relieve the sharp corners (see figure J). figure J Finish your bowl/tray with a food safe finish such as mineral oil, salad bowl oil or shellac. Copyright 2012. MLCS Woodworking. Page 5