Cylon Raider Lighting Kit - PDF Free Download

Cylon Raider Lighting Kit By Madman Lighting Inc Copyright June 2015, all rights reserved. All trademarks property of their respective owners. WARNING: This product contains small parts not suitable for children less than 12 years of age. DO NOT SWALLOW! MAY CAUSE CHOKING OR INJURY! WARNING: Madman Lighting products are shipped in good working condition and are not to be modified or changed by the purchaser. Any change or attempt to repair, change, alter, modify or enhance Madman Lighting products in any way will void any warranty, written or implied. ESD WARNING: Madman Lighting products contain sensitive electronic components and may be damaged by electrostatic discharge (ESD). Avoid shock, sparks, and static electricity by working on a grounded surface or by using a wrist-grounding strip. Thank you for purchasing a Cylon Raider Lighting Kit from Madman Lighting. This kit will let you quickly and easily light the Moebius Cylon Raider kit with minimal soldering and easy to use tools. Reference Photos: Our good friend, Jim Small at Small Art Works www.smallartworks.ca has generously offered to let us use these pictures of his Moebius Cylon Raider as reference photos. Please visit his site. Model finished by E. James Small, www.smallartworks.ca Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 1 of 17 1

What You Get: 1 Delux-Flasher 24 circuit card Instructions on CD ROM with attached push button 4-5mm White LEDs for 3-3mm white LEDs for Engines lasers and cockpit lights 1 5mm White LED for 1 3mm Blue LED for blue underside lights tinting of cockpit lights 3 of 3/16 th Heatshrink 4 of 1/16 th heatshrink 5 of red and black wire 1-5mm Orange LED for bow lights 1 cotton ball diffuser 20 of 0.5mm fiber optic 4 of 1.0mm fiber optic 2 of 2.0mm fiber optic What you will need: Tools: Xacto knife, Wire Wrap tool (Jameco Electronics), set of numbered machine drill bits, pin vise, small wire cutters. Supplies: 12VDC to 18VDC power source, batteries or wall transformer. Sheet styrene. Glue, putty, paint, etc. IR Remote Control if kit is equipped with Remote Control feature. This can be any TV, Cable, or Universal remote control unit. No soldering is required when using the Delux-Flasher 24 circuit card. All connections are made with wire wrap wire, which is safer and easier than soldering. It is also easily changed. Wire wrapping is easy! The wire wrap tool comes with a handy stripper you can use to remove the insulation from the wire. Remove about an inch of insulation, and then insert the bare end into the guide groove of the wrapping tool. Slip the tool down onto the post and rotate a few turns while letting it gently push itself upwards as the wire wraps around the post. The figure below shows some examples of finished wraps. Power wires are provided as part of the kit. One length of twisted red and black wire is available for wiring your Delux Flasher to its LEDs and battery. Black is for the Negative (-) connection, always the SHORT lead on the LEDs. RED is for the Positive (+) connection, always the LONG lead on LEDs. Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 3 of 17 3

Connecting Power to the Delux-Flasher 24 circuit card Use a 12V to 18V battery or wall transformer to power your lighting effect. Attach the battery to the power pins of the Delux-Flasher 24 card as shown below. (optional wirewrap hookup shown) Power and Ground hookups, Red wire is battery positive (+), Black is battery negative (-), ie ground Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 4 of 17 4

Connecting LEDs to the Delux-Flasher 24 The following pictures show how to hook up wire-wrap wire to the Delux Flasher board Hookup for two LEDs, showing the red and black wires for the LEDs. Notice that the wires for the LEDs have the BLACK wire on TOP side and RED wire on BOTTOM side. Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 5 of 17 5

Firing the Laser Effect and Controlling the Effect Speed To fire the Laser effect, simply push the fire button. The small white LEDs will flash quickly three times for each push of the button. Remote Control enabled kits will fire for each push of any button on the remote control and holding a button will cause continuous fire. To adjust the speed of the effect, PRESS AND HOLD the fire button. The longer the button is held down, the slower the effect will go. If you hold the button down long enough, the speed return to full speed again. This is a simple loop: Start at full speed, press and HOLD to slow, keep holding until its very slow, then it will return to full speed. When you press the fire button, the Status LED on board will light, indicating a good press. Speed settings are saved after each firing and stay set even if power is lost. Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 7 of 17 7

Closeup of backside of Delux-Flasher 24 board, Speed control button in upper right corner. Lighting Engines Engines are easiest to light and this should be the first step in installing lights. Consult the wiring diagram at the end of this document for which pins to connect the engine lights. Leave enough slack in the wire so you can easily put all the LEDs in place. Simply use some common super glue to glue the four engine LEDs in place in the round mounting holes in the clear engine parts. Laser Cannons This step requires a very steady hand to drill out the laser cannons. BE CAREFUL WHEN DRILLING OUT LASER CANNONS. You must do it in steps, before the cannons are assembled. Start with kit part #42, the upper half of the cannon. Use a #54 drill bit and a pin vise and drill as far as you can very straight into the back of the cannon barrel. When you have drilled as far as you can into the back, change to a #59 bit and drill very carefully into the front of the cannon, as straight as possible. You should meet in the middle with both holes. Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 8 of 17 8

Now drill into kit part #43, the base of the cannon with a #54 bit. Drill down, at an angle and straight back towards the rear of the ship. You should be able to drill through into the hollow section of the wing. Finally, drill a hole as shown in the picture to bring the fiber into the hollow center of the ship. Use the #54 bit again. Dry-fit all the parts the fiber will go through and make sure it fits easily. Leave about 1 inch of extra fiber sticking out the front of the cannons until painting is complete. Once painting is complete, use a very sharp knife and cut the fiber flush with the front of the cannon. You may also want to very gently heat the end of the fiber to heat-polish it. Do this by bringing a hot soldering iron or similar heat source close, but not touching, the fiber end. Do this very slowly and gently! For maximum brightness, use one 3mm LED per laser cannon fiber. Butt-join the fiber to the LED as shown below. Installing fiber optics for laser cannons. TAKE YOUR TIME ON THIS! Front Lights Use a #45 or #46 machine bit to drill out the holes for the front lights. Drill straight in, then use an x-acto knife or dremel tool to cut away the inside of the hull to you can pass Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 9 of 17 9

the 2mm fiber through and into the interior. Bring the two fibers together with some heatshrink tubing and butt-join them to the orange LED as shown below. Underside of top section showing installation of 2mm fibers and orange LED. Underwing Lights Use a #45 machine drill to drill holes for the 2mm fiber optic that light the underwing lights. These lights are under the front edge of the wings, on the side of the engine intakes as shown: Underwing light. Use a 2mm fiber for this light. Use the 5mm white LED as the source for the underwing lights, see the connection diagram on last page. Since this LED will be part of a string lighting the cockpit, use about 2 ½ feet of wire, putting the 5mm white LED about 6 inches along the length of the Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 10 of 17 10

wire with the cockpit LEDs at the end of the wire. Use two 1 ft lenths of 2mm fiber joined with heatsrhink tubing to make the underwing lights as shown: Inside the Cylon Raider. The two white curves are the 2mm fiber for underwing lights. A side view of the 2mm fibers used for underwing lights. Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 11 of 17 11

Cockpit Lighitng Cockpit lighting is simple. Drill a hole with the #45 bit behind the cockpit cover to pass the wire used to power the underwing LEDs Connect the 3mm white and 3mm blue LEDs as shown: LEDs to light the cockpit, 3mm white and 3mm blue. Add the cotton ball diffuser as shown below. I pulled mine apart until it diffused as little as I wanted: Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 12 of 17 12

Cotton ball diffused over LEDs inside cockpit. And the finished result: Lit cockpit, white with blue tint. If the cockpit light is too white, simply paint over part of the white LED to dim it. Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 13 of 17 13

Connecting Fiber Optics to LEDs 1. To light windows, portholes, or other small round lights use fiber optics. Cut the fiber a little longer than what you need and remove the black plastic covering by slitting it lengthwise and remove the fibers. Gently warm up the ends of the fiber with a low wattage soldering iron or other modest heat source by bringing the heat CLOSE, but NOT TOUCHING the fiber ends. This will smooth them and form a lens at the end of each fiber, greatly improving light transmission. 2. Cut a length of heat shrink about ¾ long for each LED you use. Stretch one end open so it fits over the LED easily. Join the LED to the fiber by butting them end to end and slipping the heat shrink over them both. (see pictures below) Heat the heat shrink with a low wattage soldering iron or hair dryer to shrink it and hold the fiber to the LED. Matches or flame are not recommended for heating. LED, and heatshrink tube, and fibers, ready to join. Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 14 of 17 14

Fibers joined to LED with heatshrink tubing. Painting with Fiber Optics and Lighting It s easy! Any place you have a fiber, leave a little extra, maybe ¼, sticking out, and paint the entire area, including the fiber. Once you re all done painting, cut the fiber flush with the surface. Light will shine from the flush cut fiber. Now you ve got a great fiber optic lighting effect. IR Remote Control Madman Lighting kits equipped with a Remote Control feature have the ability to be triggered by virtually any IR (infared) remote control available. Because remote controls are so common and Madman Lighting kits work with virtually any controller, this kit does not include a remote control device. To use your own TV/Cable/Universal remote control with Madman s kit, simply point your remote at the Madman controller and watch to see if the small green status LED (shown below) flickers when pressing any button on the remote. In the rare cases when this does not happen, program an unused AUX device on your remote as an NEC, Panasonic, or JVC brand TV, VCR, or DVD player to get good results. Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 15 of 17 15

Pressing any key on the remote will be the same as pressing the special effect button briefly on the Madman Lighting controller. For any kit with a fire button, now you can fire your ship s weapon by remote control from across the room. NOTE: This will not adjust the speed control setting of the Madman controller. To adjust the special effect speed, you must still PRESS and HOLD the pushbutton until the special effect runs at the desired speed. Placement of the IR Reciever in the Model Most plastic models are transparent to infared light so placement of the controller in the model is not very critical. For best possible placement, put the IR Receiver near a window, cockpit, or other clear section with the curved dome of the receiver facing out. Black paint will definitely block the infrared light so avoid placing the reciever in a blacked out section of the model. If this is not possible and the light from the green power ON or status LED is showing through the shell of the model, simply paint over the LED with black paint, it won t harm the electronics. Do the painting with power OFF and allow to dry before applying power. Removing the Wired Push Button Some people may not want to use the wired push button that comes with the controller. Removing this is easy. Simply remove power from the controller and cut the wires connecting the push button to the controller with some sharp cutters. This will not void the warrenty or affect how the unit performs. You can still use the flat push button on the controller itself to fire the special effect and adjust the speed of the special effect. Copyright Madman Lighting Inc 2015 All Rights Reserved Page 16 of 17 16