W314 Alpaca Lana D Oro Bobble Vine Jacket Designed by Edie Eckman
Alpaca Lana D Oro Bobble Vine Jacket Designed By Edie Eckman Skill Level: Intermediate Women's Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2X)" Finished Measurements: Finished Chest: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" Finished Length: 21 1/2 (22, 23, 24, 25)" (Shown in size S.) Crochet Hook H-8 (5 mm) Stitch Markers Cable Needle Waste yarn for stitch holders One 1" button Materials: Cascade Yarns Alpaca Lana D'Oro 50% Alpaca / 50% Wool 100 g (3.5 oz) / 219 yds (200 m) 4 (5, 6, 6, 7) skeins of color #1106 (Turtle) US size 7 (4.5 mm) Set of 4 or 5 DPN Knitting Needles US size 7 (4.5 mm)/32" Circular Knitting Needles or size needed to obtain gauge Gauge: 20 sts x 28 rows = 4" in Stockinette Stitch Take time to check your gauge. Abbreviations: CO = Cast On BO = Bind Off K = Knit P = Purl St(s) = Stitch(es) RH = Right Hand LH = Left Hand
K2tog SSK SSP M1 PM SM Rep Sl P2tog St st Inc(s) Beg Ch Dec(s) DPN(s) Rnd(s) RS WS Sc = knit 2 stitches together = Slip, Slip, Knit = Slip, Slip, Purl = Make 1 stitch = Place Marker = Slip Marker = Repeat = Slip = Purl 2 stitches together = Stockinette st = Increase(s) = Beginning = Chain = Decrease(s) = Ddouble Pointed Needle(s) = Round(s) = Right Side = Wrong Side = Single Crochet Notes: Sleeves are worked in the round to underarms, then Body is worked in one piece to underarms and all are joined and worked together to the end. Special Stitches: M1 (make 1): Insert LH needle, from front to back, into strand between st just worked and next st, knit this strand through back loop. Sc (single crochet): Insert hook into edge, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. Slip st (slip stitch): Insert hook into stitch or space indicated, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. SSK (slip, slip, knit): Sl 2 sts as to knit, one at a time, to RH needle; insert LH needle into fronts of these 2 sts and knit them together. SSP (slip, slip, purl): Sl 2 sts as to knit, one at a time, to RH needle; sl these 2 sts back to LH needle. P2tog through back loops by inserting RH needle into second st, then first st. Stockinette St: Knit on RS, purl on WS. Kitcheners Stitch: Thread a tapestry needle with the same yarn you used to work your project. Hold the needles with the live stitches parallel in your left hand. Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to PURL. Pull the yarn through, leaving a tail that you will weave in later. Leave the stitch on the front needle.
Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to KNIT, pull the yarn through, leaving the stitch on the back needle. Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to KNIT, pull the yarn through, removing the stitch from the front needle. Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to PURL, pull the yarn through, leaving the stitch on the front needle. Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to PURL, pull the yarn through, removing the stitch on the back needle. Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to KNIT, pull the yarn through, leaving the stitch on the back needle. Repeat until all stitches have been worked Right Side Decreases: Right Front: Work to 2 sts before raglan marker, K2tog. Sleeve: K1, SSK, work to 3 sts before raglan marker, K2tog, K1. Back: SSK, work to 2 sts before raglan marker, K2tog. Left Front: SSK, work to end. Wrong Side Decreases: Right Front: P2tog, work to end. Left Front: Work to 2 sts before raglan marker, ssp. Back: P1, P2tog, work to 3 sts before raglan marker, SSP, P1. SLEEVES (Make 2): CO 56 (60, 64, 66, 68) sts. Divide onto DPNs; PM and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Work even in St st for 1". Inc Rnd: K1, M1, knit to last st, m1, K1 58 (62, 66, 68, 70) sts. Continue to increase 2 sts every 9 th (8 th, 7 th, 6 th, 5 th ) round 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) more times. - 68 (74, 80, 84, 88) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 9½" from beg, ending last rnd 1 (2, 3, 3, 3) sts from end of rnd. Place next 2 (5, 7, 7, 7) sts on holder, removing marker; place remaining 66 (69, 73, 77, 81) sts on separate holder.
BODY: CO 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) sts. Row 1 (RS): K1, PM to indicate beg of chart, work Row 1 of Bobble Vine Chart (Right Front) over next 20 sts, PM to indicate end of chart, K24 (29, 34, 39, 44) right front sts, pm for right underarm, K90 (100, 110, 120, 130) back sts, PM for left underarm, K24 (29, 34, 39, 44) left front sts, PM to indicate beg of chart, work Row 1 of Bobble Vine Chart (Left Front) over next 20 sts, PM to indicate end of chart, K1 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) sts. Keeping chart sts in established pattern and remaining sts in St st throughout, work until piece measures 1" from beg, ending with a WS row. Waist dec row (RS): Work to 3 sts before underarm marker, K2tog, K1, Sl marker, K1, SSK; rep from * once more, work to end. Work even 13 rows, then rep waist dec row once more 172 (192, 212, 232, 252) sts. Work even until piece measures 5½ (5½, 6, 6, 6)" from beg, ending with a WS row. Waist inc row (RS): Work to 1 st before underarm marker, M1, K1, Sl marker, K1, M1; rep from * once more, work to end 172 (192, 212, 232, 252) sts. Work even 13 rows, then rep waist inc row once more 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) sts. Work even until piece measures 12½ (12½, 12½, 12¾, 13¼)" from beg, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS): Work to 1 (2, 3, 3, 3) sts before underarm marker, work next 2 (5, 7, 7, 7) sts, removing marker, place these 2 (5, 7, 7, 7) sts on holder, work to 1 (3, 4, 4, 4) sts before underarm marker, work next 2 (5, 7, 7, 7) sts, removing marker, place these 2 (5, 7, 7, 7) sts on holder, work to end. Joining Row (RS): Work 44 (48, 52, 57, 62) right front sts, PM for raglan shaping, work 66 (69, 73, 77, 81) right sleeve sts from holder, PM for raglan shaping, work 88 (94, 102, 112, 122) back sts, Pm for raglan shaping, work 66 (69, 73, 77, 81) left sleeve sts from holder, PM for raglan shaping, work to end 308 (328, 352, 380, 408) sts. Work 1 WS row.
YOKE: Note: Read all instructions before continuing, referring to pattern notes above for decrease instructions. Raglan shaping and neck shaping take place at the same time. Work decreases at raglan markers (see above) as follows: On Fronts and Back: Decrease every other row 27 (30, 30, 32, 32) times, then every row 2 (2, 6, 8, 12) times. On Sleeves: On Sleeves: Decrease every 4th row 0 (2, 2, 3, 3) times, then every other row 28 (27, 29, 30, 32) times. AND AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 19 (19½, 20½, 21½, 22½)" from beg, end with a WS row and begin neck shaping. Neck shaping (RS): BO 6 (7, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Next row (RS): K1, SSK, work to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. Continue to dec 1 st each neck edge every other row 4 more times. 58 (60, 68, 70, 72) sts remain when all shaping is complete. Finishing Weave underarm seams using Kitchener st. Block, being careful not to flatten Bobble Vine pattern. With RS facing and crochet hook, single crochet evenly around lower edges of sleeves. Place marker on right front edge 1" below beginning of right front neck shaping. With RS facing and crochet hook, join yarn at lower left underarm edge; single crochet evenly along lower edge, fronts, and neck, placing 2-3 sc in each corner st to allow corner to lie flat; join with slip st to first sc. Ch 1, sc in each sc around, placing 2-3 sc in each corner st. Button loop: With crochet hook, ch 10. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off. Fold piece in half to form loop and sew to right front edge at neck. Weave in ends. Sew button opposite button loop.