The Mill by Barb Halvorson

The Mill by Barb Halvorson

The Mill By Barb Halvorson Palette: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Alizarin Crimson #13179 Black Forest Green #13083 Blue Violet #13141 Bright Yellow #13227 Brilliant Red #13145 Burnt Sienna #13063 Cadmium Red #13015 Citron Green #13235 Lamp Black #13067 Lavender #13034 Leaf Green #13051 Slate Grey #13068 Turquoise #13258 Traditional Burnt Umber #13221 Yellow Ochre #13008 Warm White #13239 Surface: Magazine Holder with Drawer #62656 Misc. Supplies: DecoArt MultiPurpose Sealer #87392 DecoArt Drying Time Extender #83131 Palette Paper Pad #70560 Large Sanding Pad Fine/Medium #70796 Foam Brush Set of 3 2 #70172 Tack Cloth #70104 Tracing Paper Roll #83175 Graphite Paper, White #70139; Grey #70141 JoSonja White Gesso #83101 DecoArt DuraClear Varnish Matte # 87395 Paper Towels Blue Painter s Tape Brushes: Papillon by the Artists Club Deerfoot Set #20167 Filber, size 8 #20119 Round, size 1 #20157, size 2 #20158 Liner, size 2 #20148 Shader, size 2 #20125; size 6 #20127; size 8 #20129; size 10 #20130; size 12 #20131 (I use both new and well worn Shader brushes) Glaze Wash, size 1 #20103 Artist Inspired Brushes: Maxine Thomas Mop, size 1 #27178 Preparation: I have used some mixes in the painting of this project. Purple Mix: Blue Violet + a touch of Alizarin Crimson. To lighten add Warm White. If you add too much Alizarin Crimson to Blue Violet you will lose the pretty Blue Violet Color and the color turns a mauve. Add just enough Alizarin Crimson to tone the Blue to a pretty purple color. To test your 1

color, add small amounts of Warm White at a time. Worksheet: I have prepared a colored worksheet for you. The worksheet sometimes is more critical than the directions because you can see how I have painted a certain area. Please use it as a tool and keep it in front of you at all times. Please Note: Buildings can sometimes be hard to do and it is very easy to lose the shape of the structure. Older buildings are a little easier as you can say the door fell off or the window is hanging by the hinges etc. Newer buildings you need to be more precise. When doing older buildings I like to take acetate and trace the pattern onto it with a fine-line black magic marker. This way if I lose the lines I can recheck them after I have painted the entire building. I can put the clear acetate over my painted surface to see if the shape of my building is correct. Sand the wood piece with a sanding pad lightly. Wipe away the dust with the tack cloth. Seal with DecoArt MultiPurpose Sealer. Basecoat the painting surface with two coats of Gesso, letting each dry well. Sand the wood piece again. Transfer the pattern lines with Grey Graphite Paper. Outline the windows and the mill with a darker color (like Traditional Burnt Umber) so they show up when painting. Painting Instructions: Sky: With a 1 Glaze Wash brush cover the entire sky with Drying Time Extender. This will keep the background moist so you can work the skies and clouds using the wet into wet technique. Using the same brush; basecoat the sky with Blue Violet + Warm White, add a touch of Turquoise + Warm White here and there. Use back and forth strokes; leaving a small area here and there where you think you might like to place the clouds. Remember to go around the mill with the sky color but switch to a smaller size 12 Shader brush. Using the corner of the large brush, load one corner of the brush with heavier Warm White, push the paint off to form the clouds. Soften the clouds at the base of sky with back and forth stroke. You may need to do this a couple times. If the sky becomes dry pick up more extender either in your brush. 2

Background Bushes: Distant Foliage (Light Purple Mix): Before starting you may like to line the inside of the buildings with painter s tape. This will prevent paint getting inside the buildings. Using a worn out size 12 Shader tap the bushes around the buildings and a touch around the green branch around the top of the magazine rack. Make sure you test your color before starting to paint. I used a pouncy stroke but evened out my paint on my palette paper before starting to paint. I usually start at the bottom when I had more paint on the brush and my foliage became softer as I reached the top because I had less paint on my brush. Next, add the pink bush tree above the mill with Warm White + Alizarin Crimson. Remember Alizarin Crimson is a very strong color. 3 Green Leaves and Individual Foliage: Make the foliage using the size 8 Filbert brush. The three greens used were: Black Forest Green, Leaf Green, and the lightest color, Citron Green. Do not make each leaf individual but work them into clusters. Refer to the worksheet. Add a touch of Turquoise to the greens to get a softer prettier color. Add Bright Yellow + White for a few lighter colors. Using water, thin down Traditional Burnt Umber to writing consistency to make the tree branches. I highlighted a few of the branches on top with Yellow Ochre. The branches should not be exactly the same length. Mill: Using the size 6 Shader, basecoat the entire mill with Slate Grey. After this dries, wet the areas before painting on them with extender. Watch stroke direction, use vertical strokes on the front of the mill and horizontal strokes on the back. The very back of the building, where the trough is located, basecoat with Traditional Burnt Umber + a touch of Lamp Black. Paint the trough Traditional Burnt Umber + a touch of Warm White, and paint the little lines on the trough and the overlapping boards holding it up with Traditional Burnt Umber. You can freehand these in later or retrace them with White Graphite Paper which-ever you prefer. Using a size 6 Shader brush start laying Traditional Burnt Umber + Lamp Black under the roof edges and pull slightly down to begin the shading. Fill in the left side of the building with

the same mixture. Clean the brush, streak Yellow Ochre + a touch of Warm White beginning at the bottom of the wall streaking vertically. Add touches of Burnt Sienna and brush in some of the sky mixture here and there. Go right over the windows for now. Blend where the colors meet. Backside of the Buildings: Base the backside of the walls with Traditional Burnt Umber + Lamp Black. Streak a mix of Blue Violet + Warm White to suggest board lines. If the blue is too bright add a touch of Burnt Sienna. The lightest colors are on the front of the mill. Use Burnt Sienna, blues, and Yellow Ochre. Later, add slight reflections from the lit window. Base the back side of the front of the mill and the front back side of the mill solid with Traditional Burnt Umber + a touch of Lamp Black. Next, add all three roofs on all three buildings, with Slate Grey. Use the same colors that were in the mill but watch the slant of the roof. I added highlight lines on the top of the first building and the roof ledges with Warm White + a touch of Yellow Ochre. I shadowed the second roof where the trees would cast a shadow with Purple Mix + Lamp Black. Base the rock foundation with Traditional Burnt Umber. Leave a tiny separation where the walls and the foundation meet. Chimney: Base the Chimney with Burnt Sienna, add little lines for interest to the left of the chimney with Traditional Burnt Umber + Warm White. Wheel and Trough: Using a size 1 Round brush, base the wheel in with Lamp Black + a touch of Traditional Burnt Umber. Make the spokes with Cadmium Red and highlighted toward the top or the wheel with Brilliant Red. The bolt that is holding the wheel together is Traditional Burnt Umber + Warm White. Windows: The front window is lit. Top area is Alizarin Crimson, highlighted with Bright Yellow and brightest area (dot) is Warm White. Put the divisions and the window in with Traditional Burnt Umber + a touch of Lamp Black. Use a size 2 Round brush. The back area is solid Lamp Black. 4

Rock Foundation below the mill: Base the foundation solid with Burnt Umber + Lamp Black. Wet this area slightly with extender and using the side of a size 2 Shader brush, start patting in individual rocks. Use the same colors that you used in the building. Set the rocks in by lightly patting them in while they are still wet. Add a few rocks in the water. Bushes in Front of the Mill: Base the entire bush with Warm White + Alizarin Crimson. Alizarin Crimson is a very strong color so be very careful. Again use the worn out size 12 Shader brush. To highlight the bush, simply add Warm White to make a lighter color. Add the green bushes with Leaf Green for the medium color, Citron Green for the lightest and for the darkest bushes at the very right side Black Forest Green. Tap these in with a smaller worn out brush. Water: Water reflects everything that is above it. Wet the entire water area with extender before you begin. Take the size 12 Shader brush and start layering in colors with short downward strokes. If you wanted to you could actually turn this painting upside down and repaint parts of the mill. First, reflect the purples, browns and blues that you used for the building then red from the wheel. Next, place the lightest colors in the middle of the water by adding Warm White to the blues. When reflecting water everything should be soft and muted. Follow the photo for highlights and shadows. With a clean size 1 Maxine Thomas Mop very lightly skim over the water. It is easy to mop out the reflections so be very careful. Next, suggest a little water coming from the waterwheel tapping lightly down with a size 6 Shader. First by using the Blue Mix, next while this is still wet, tap Warm White on top of this. Make the foam by having the paint a little heavier at the corner of a flat brush; use a little tap, tap motion. Set the waterlines in by having very little paint on the bottom of the brush and gently setting them in. Work into small groupings or clusters and try not to make the waterlines the same shape or size. 5

Purple Flowering Bush: For the purple flowering bush in front of the fencepost use Lavender for the base color, add Warm White for the middle color, and for the lightest color add additional Warm White. Notice the lightest color is in a cluster toward the top left side of the bush. Use the size 12 worn out Shader and tap groupings of purple clusters. Tap the green foliage between the lavender clusters with the size ¼ Deerfoot; try not to make circles or shapes in which you can count every cluster. Make sure that there is enough variety of different shades of green for the foliage and lavender for the clusters of flowery bushes. Fenceposts: Base the fenceposts in with a size 8 Shader brush using Traditional Burnt Umber. Highlight the left side with Yellow Ochre, reflect blues on the left and add touches of Burnt Sienna if you would like. Use short choppy strokes. Grasses: Using a Deerfoot pull up grasses using mainly the Black Forest Green + Leaf Green. Stones (Path-Walkway): Base the stones in with Slate Grey. Shadow the left side with washes of Blue Mixes + touches of Lamp Black and even touches of pinks and purples. Pull of grasses using the Deerfoot brush between the stones. Bush on the left side: Base the bush with the size 8 Filbert brush, starting with Deep Forest Green, and highlight with Leaf Green. Don t be afraid to add a touch of blue for reflected light. Knob: Pretend the knob is a part of the design and paint it as it was already there. Finishing: Remove any graphite lines. Finish the project with several coats of DecoArt DuraClear Matte Varnish. 6

7 Pattern at 100% 1 x 1 To ensure your pattern is at 100%, this box should measure 1 x 1 when printed.

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Pattern at 100% 1 x 1 To ensure your pattern is at 100%, this box should measure 1 x 1 when printed. 10

11 Branches made with three colors of green; Black Forest Green, Leaf Green, & Citron Green. Make clouds with the corner of the bristle brush. Load on one corner and push off. Leave an open space Basecoat with Warm White + a touch of Alizarin Crimson. Put in with a worn out flat brush. Background bushes made with a worn out #12 flat brush. Add a touch of purple. Basecoat both roofs with Slate Grey.

Reflections in water reflects what is above it. Fence Post: Base with Burt Umber, highlight with Yellow Ochre. Add reflective lights with purple and blue. Pull up blades of grass with deerfoot brush. Pull in shades of purple on the rocks. Use deerfoot for Purple Bush. Work into clusters. 12

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Copyright 2016 by Barb Halvorson and Crafts Americana Group, Inc. All Rights Reserved. #331981 No. *A331981* Artist s Club. All rights reserved. For private, non-commercial use only. Please see our web site for terms of use.