STEP 4 STEP 5. Cut a 12 length of frisket film. Loosen the paper backing at one corner. Place the corner onto the top corner of your board.

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STEP 4 Cut a 12 length of frisket film. Loosen the paper backing at one corner. Place the corner onto the top corner of your board. Slowly remove the remaining paper back while laying the frisket against the full surface of the wood. Working form the center of the board towards the outer edges, rub the film to remove any air bubbles. Frisket film is a transparent, thin plastic sheet that is low-tact. You can lay the film over your working area, then using a bench or kraft knife cut small areas of film to open those areas for coloration work. The surrounding film protects the adjacent areas from color application. STEP 5 With your craft or bench knife cut along the inner lines of the center three petals, marked on the number pattern as 1. Each new area that we will work in this project begins by cutting the frisket film for each flower petal that is numbered for that step. The cut pieces of your frisket film can be saved and reused on your project. Set the cut frisket aside, face or tack-side up on your table. Paint the area that has been cut and allow that area to dry completely. You can now reposition the cut piece of frisket over the painted area and lightly press into place. The cut piece now protects your coloring from your color application in the adjacent areas of the design. For clean, easy to lift sections, begin your frisket cuts at an outer edge corner, pulling the cut towards the center of the area. Return to that same corner and cut the second leg of the angle, again working towards the center.

STEP 6 Place a small amount of your pure red, yellow, and blue on a palette. With a small shader fill in each area by laying the color with the direction of the wood grain. You can start and end each brush stroke on the frisket paper; the film will protect the wood below. One to two light coats will give you full coverage. Allow the first coat to dry completely, loosing any glossy sheen, before applying the second coat. PRIMARY COLORS Primary colors are the colors that can not be mixed or created from any other color. With these three colors plus black and white you can mix the entire color wheel spectrum. Professional quality acrylic paints tend to be much more transparent than craft quality colors. Craft paints are mixed with a float media that has some opacity. While the color may be a pure hue - pure color - the float helps to block the color of the wood below it.

STEP 7 Cut and lift the frisket in the petals that are marked #2. These petals will become our secondary colors for the color wheel. Pick up one brushful of red and place it on the palette. Add one brushful of yellow to the red. Mix well. The mixed color is your secondary color of orange. Apply this secondary color to the petal that is between the red and yellow petals. Repeat this step to create your mid-range green and purple. SECONDARY COLORS Mix equal parts of two primaries to create a secondary color. Red + Yellow = Mid-tone Orange Yellow + Blue = Mid-tone Green Blue + Red = Mid-tone Purple I used the same shader brush throughout this project, and used that brush as my measuring spoon for color mixing. This made mixing colors easy and accurate.

Step 8 Cut and lift the frisket for the petals numbered #3, these are you tertiary colors. You can create tertiary colors in two ways. #1 Mix two brushful's of one primary with one brushful of another primary, stir well. #2 Mix one brushful of one primary with one brushful of its secondary color. Fill in the petals with you new color mix and allow to dry. TERTIARY COLORS Three parts of primary color are used to create the tertiary hues. 2 Red + 1 Yellow = Red Orange 1 Red + 2 Yellow = Yellow Orange 2 Yellow + 1 Blue = Yellow Green 1 Yellow + 2 Blue = Blue Green 2 Blue + 1 Red = Blue Purple 1 Blue + 2 Red = Red Purple Since your secondary colors are one primary + one primary, adding one more brushful of one of those primaries creates a tertiary.

ACCURACY V. EASE There are times when you need accuracy in your color mixing, and other times that you just want an easy way to create new colors. For accurate color mixing use the primary formulas, returning to the pure hues on your palette to create the intermediate colors. 2 Red + 1 Yellow = Red Orange For easy mixing, when absolute accuracy is not as important you can use the secondary and tertiary colors that you have already created with new brushfuls of your primary. 1 Primary + 1 Secondary = Tertiary The above formula can also be written as: 1 Red + (1 Red + 1 Yellow) = 2 Red + 1 Yellow = Red Orange When I am mixing a large number of color hues and tones I lay out my primary colors on my palette in a triangle shape at the outer edge of the palette area. This leaves me room between the primary colors to mix my secondary, tertiary, and muted or pastel tones.

STEP 9 By continuing to add one brushful of the adjacent primary color to your color mixes you can create more intermediate colors and hues. Cut the petal areas marked #4. Again you can either return to mixing only primary colors or you can use the tertiary colors mixed in the previous step and add one new brushful of the adjacent primary. 3 Red + 1 Yellow = Deep Red Orange 3 Yellow + 1 Red = Pale Orange 3 Yellow + 1 Blue = Pale Green 1 Yellow + 3 Blue = Deep Green 3 Blue + 1 Red = Deep Blue Purple 1 Blue + 3 Red = Deep Red Purple Adding one brushful of a primary to its adjacent tertiary is equal to 3 parts of one primary added to 1 part on another primary.