SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

Chapter - 5 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS In this fast world of fashion India can not survive in the export market without exploiting the potential of delicate fabrics which continue to be very popular. Delicate or Sheer fabrics form a category of fabrics which are very revealing and transparent. They inspire the finest workmanship. Due to historical background, India has an advantage and the potential to develop into a key player in the global market place with sheer fabrics. Some basic strengths which India possess like traditional weaving and embroidery skills, rich colors, beautiful patterns and design collection can contribute immensely in this direction. Sheer fabrics require some special techniques at each and every step of handling, cutting, sewing and finishing. A preliminary survey conducted in garment construction units revealed that a standardized procedure and technique could not be found while construction of garment from delicate fabrics. This is primarily due to lack of availability and awareness of appropriate equipments and machineries. Even if suitable equipments and machineries are available, there is no proper training and awareness among workforce who play an important role in conversion of delicate fabrics into garments. Such a scenario effects the quality of garments and health of the workers. The standardized technique and procedure can be brought in if working conditions, equipment, type of tools used and method of working are standardized. The present study was hence conducted with the objective of understanding the manufacturing techniques and machinery involved in processing of garments made of delicate fabrics. The problems involved at various levels in the garment industry were identified and the most suitable 158

techniques and equipment used during handling and finishing of seven different types of delicate fabrics were experimented. A catalogue explaining the best methods for dealing and caring of different types of delicate fabrics was prepared and impact of the prepared catalogue on production of garments with such fabrics was thus studied. To achieve the objectives of the study following steps were adopted. The methodology was divided into three phases which included exploratory, experimental and dissemination of information. Phase I The exploratory study was conducted on 30 export houses, 10 buying houses, 10 boutiques and stitching units from Delhi and NCR region. The data was collected from 200 respondents which included the owner, manager, workers and functional heads of various departments of export house like store, marking and cutting, sewing, finishing. The frame work for this phase is elaborated in plate 5.1. 159

Suitable questionnaires were designed and circulated among the owners and managers of the export houses. The information from functional heads and operators or workers was collected through six sets of interview schedules. Observation was done at various departments of export house which included store, cutting, sewing and finishing. Buying house and other stitching units were also included in the study to find out manufacturing techniques and construction related problems. As people engaged in manufacturing of garments from delicate fabrics were also suffering from certain occupational health hazards, an interview schedule was also designed to collect data related to health conditions from 100 workers working in different departments of 10 export houses. Two individuals from each department namely pattern making, store, marking & cutting, sewing and finishing were included for this section of the study. Phase II The data gathered through exploratory stage revealed various problems at pre sewing, sewing and post sewing stage. Amongst these the most commonly found problems were seam related problems which included seam puckering and seam slippage. Experiments were conducted to find out the way to minimize or eliminate these problems. The survey conducted in NCR region revealed that manufacturers were mostly using seven types of delicate fabrics which were selected for experimental study. These included silk georgette, poly georgette, viscose georgette, voile, silk crepe, organdy and silk chiffon. The mechanical and physical properties of selected delicate fabrics were studied. In order to reduce garment construction related problems, manufacturing techniques adopted by different construction units were compared. Experiments were also conducted on the seam related problems. To study the mechanism of seam puckering, AATCC 88B-1996 test method and for seam slippage ASTM D 1683-90a test method were used. Fabric 160

samples of selected delicate fabrics were prepared considering various sewing parameters. The sewing parameters considered during preparation of samples are given in Table 5.1 and 5.2. Table 5.1 Sewing parameters considered as constants while preparing samples Thread 3 ply spun polyester thread Stitch Per Inch Thread Tension Upper Lower Pressure on Presser Foot Height of Feed Dog Speed 12 40CN 20CN 4Kg 0.6mm 4000spm Type of Seam Single Needle Lock Stitch Table 5.2 Sewing parameters considered as variables considered while preparing samples Fabric Code A( A1- A72) B( B1- B72) C( C1- C72) D( D1- D72) E( E1- E72) F( F1- F72) G( G1- G72) Needle Size ( FG Point) 7 9 11 Presser Foot Simple Roller Teflon Coated with ring Type Feed dog Simple Teflon coated Angle of feed dog Straight Front up Throat plate 12 no. 14 no. For each fabric sample seventy two samples with different combinations of the selected parameters were prepared. Three readings for each test were conducted. A total of 1512 (7 x 72 x 3) samples were prepared for seam puckering and the same number of samples was prepared for seam slippage assessment. Once the different samples were prepared, subjective seam puckering assessment (Fig. 5.1) was done by four experts. In case of seam slippage, the prepared samples were tested on tensile strength tester 161

(Fig. 5.2) and the load required to cause a yarn displacement of 6mm was calculated. During experiments best combination of sewing parameters for stitching delicate fabrics were identified. The frame work of phase 2 and phase 3 is elaborated in Plate 5.2. Fig 5.1 Seam puckering judgment scale (5-1) instrument Fig 5.2 Tensile testing 162

Phase III This phase dealt with the dissemination of information related to the most suitable techniques and equipments used during handling and finishing of different types of delicate fabrics. For suggesting tips regarding construction of garments, a booklet in form of practical manual and a book were prepared. A leaflet and a booklet containing information related to preventive measures regarding various health related issues for workers of industry was designed and distributed to the respondents. Feedback of respondents was taken to analyze the acceptability and impact of the prepared material on production of garments with such fabrics. Garments manufactured from delicate fabrics involve many processing steps, beginning with an idea or design and ending with the finished product. The major findings of the present study are presented in following heads 5.1.1 Profile of respondents 5.1.2 Manufacturing techniques involved in processing of garments 5.1.3 Identification of problems 5.1.4 Experiments conducted 5.1.5 Dissemination of information and its impact 5.1.1 PROFILE OF RESPONDENTS For proper interpretation of the findings profile of the respondents were studied. This section comprises of classification of the selected sample into different categories according to their personal characteristics. Construction related Survey of garment construction units revealed that among 200 respondents maximum people (39%) were within the age group of 31 to 45 years, around one forth of the respondents fall in the age group of 46 to 60 years and very small percentage of respondents belong to the age group 163

above 60 years. More than three forth of respondents gathered knowledge due to personal interest in the field of garment manufacturing (Fig. 5.3). Fig. 5.3 Source of knowledge of respondents Health related The present study revealed that more than two third of the respondents involved in the industry were male. Among the respondents more than half of the owner, manager and the fabricators had an experience of more than 5 years. It was found that the garment units hardly organized any training programmes for the upliftment of their employees. The 50% of the respondents from sewing department and 40% of finishing department were working for more than ten hours per day (Fig. 5.4). Fig. 5.4 Working hours of respondents 164

5.1.2 MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES INVOLVED IN PROCESSING OF GARMENTS Garments manufactured from delicate fabrics involved many processing steps. Few findings of the present study are outlined below The patterns were usually made and graded by experienced pattern masters either manually (70%) or with the use of CAD system (30%). According to respondents, silk georgette was found to be the most commonly used delicate fabric in the garment industry. Poly georgette, chiffon, viscose georgette, nylon and organdy are also popular fabrics among delicate fabrics (Fig.5.5). Fig. 5.5 Commonly used delicate fabrics* % R e s p o n s e 100 80 60 40 20 0 88.5 80.5 54 66.5 28 37 31 18 17 15 7.5 Delicate fabrics *Data based on multiple responses The delicate fabrics were inspected on white table or fabric inspection machine using (AAMA) 4-Point system. Single layer spreading and cutting was practiced in case of embroidered fabrics and multiple layering in case of plain delicate fabrics or lining materials. Layering or spreading was usually done manually for delicate fabrics. Due to the transparency of delicate fabrics, the patterns were placed beneath the fabric layers and marking was done using glass pencils or chalk. Notches were also applied as balance marks. 165

Percentage of Respondents Percentage of Respondents Simple shears was used in single layer cutting and in case of multiple layer rotary cutters, band knife or straight knife cutters were used. During stitching of delicate fabrics adjustment of sewing parameters like pressure foot, upper thread tension, lower thread tension, height of feed dog were usually based on hit and trial methods. Only 6.6% respondents applied stay stitch on the curved edges of cut pieces of delicate fabrics. To avoid fraying of edges 26.6% respondents were also trying anti fraying sprays. Seams like french seam, mock french seam, self bound seam or double stitched seam were used for delicate fabrics. Electric or steam irons were used by the respondents for delicate fabrics. 5.1.3 IDENTIFICATION OF PROBLEMS It was observed that respondents were facing lots of problems at various stages (pre-sewing, sewing and post sewing) of garment construction. These problems were consolidated and are summarized in Fig 5.6, 5.7 and 5.8. Problems faced at Pre Sewing stage Fig. 5.6 Problems faced at Pre Sewing stage a) Dimensional change b) Fabric defects & holes c) Spots and stains d) Yarn pulling e) Difficult to stay on flat surface f) Fraying of edges g) Difficulty in marking the details h) Single layer cutting is practiced which is a time consuming process 90 90 85 80 85 80 75 75 78.3 78.3 70 71.6 70 71.6 66.6 66.6 60 60 48.3 53.3 60 50 48.3 53.3 60 50 40 40 30 30 20 20 10 10 0 a b c d e ff g h Problems 166

Percentage of of Respondents Percentage of Respondents Percentage of Respondents Problems faced at Sewing stage Fig. 5.7 Problems faced at Sewing stage a) Formation of sewing marks during stitching b) Seam grinning c) Finished look of garment is difficult to achieve d) Seam puckering e) Seam slippage 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 73.3 61.6 66.6 a b c d e 91.6 88.3 a b c d e Problems Problems faced at Post Sewing stage Fig. 5.8 Problems faced at Post Sewing stage a) Shape distortion b) Color fading c) Marks and other stains d) Embroidery related defects e) Unclipped threads hanging 100 90 90 80 80 70 70 60 60 50 50 40 40 30 30 20 20 10 10 0 85 85 68.3 71.6 a b c Problems 43.3 d 63.3 e Amongst the various problems at sewing stage, seam puckering was faced by 91.6% respondents. It was then followed by seam slippage which was reported by 88.3% of respondents (Fig.5.7). The most prevelant construction related problems at pre sewing stage was fraying of edges faced by 85% of the respondents(fig.5.6). 167

Accidents faced (%) In case of post sewing stage highest percentage of respondents were facing the problem of color fading (Fig.5.8). Beside these garment construction related problems, respondents were also suffering from a few accidents and health related issues. Out of the total group highest percentage of the respondents working in finishing department faced injuries, followed by sewing and cutting department (Fig.5.9). The respondents of finishing department reported that the most usual accident experiences were burning of fingers and arms during ironing. Injury at both index finger and middle fingers was also commonly seen in thread cutting section of finishing department. The workers while stitching also injured their eyes due to flying of the broken needle into the eyes. Fig.5.9 Accidents faced by various departments 80 60 60 60 70 40 20 0 10 Pattern 20 Store Marking & Sew ing Finishing maker Cutting Various Departments The health related problem faced by more than sixty percent of the workers in garment manufacturing units was the musculoskeletal disorder (MSD) (Fig.5.10). 168

Fig. 5.10 Health related issues of respondents Among the respondents, neck pain was felt by 36.5% followed by pain in lower back (33.3%), pain in knee (30%), shoulder and hand pain (27%). Various environmental parameters like temperature, humidity, light and noise at the place where production of garments with sheer fabrics was done. The analysis showed that these parameters were either not upto the standard or were marginally acceptable. According to the respondents repetition of activities, awkward postures, localized pressure, excessive force, unsatisfactory environmental conditions and uncomfortable workstation were the few causes of health related problems. The study indicated that a few of the workers were aware of any protective clothing. Measures like hand glove, thimble, ear plugs and face mask which were meant to protect from accidents, cuts and injuries during production process were not found at the site. 169

5.1.4 Experiments conducted The exploratory study suggested that there were a lot of problems the industry faced. Since all the problems could not be handled during the study, the most prevalent ones like seam puckering and seam slippage were selected for further experimenting. Seam puckering is a major defect when quality and finish of a garment made up of sheer fabrics is considered. Parameters like needle size, pressure foot type, feed dog and its position affect seam puckering. During experiments optimum condition of these parameters for seven different sheer fabrics were studied. The findings of the experiments related to seam puckering are given below With all the sheer fabrics, use of finer needle (No.7) gave rise to less seam puckering. However, the seam puckering was least in case of organdy fabric. In case of fabrics made from filament yarns, Teflon coated pressure foot with rings gave least seam pucker while in case of fabrics made from spun yarns, roller type pressure foot gave low seam puckered stitches. The Fig. 5.11 shows the machine attachment used in experiments. Fig. 5.11 Machine attachments (Pressure foot with ring and with roller) 170

In most of the selected delicate fabrics, type of feed dog did not have any significant effect on seam pucker. However, use of teflon coated feed dog is recommended to avoid sewing marks on the sheer fabrics. For all the fabrics, front-up position of the feed dog gave less seam pucker. The size of throat plate has some effect on seam pucker. In general, the seam pucker increased while using bigger throat plate. Hence throat plate no.12 need to be used instead of throat plate no. 14 in case of delicate fabrics. Experiments were also conducted to optimize parameters which effects seam slippage. Findings of seam slippage experiments indicated following results Low cover factor may be the reason behind the high seam slippage rating in organdy and chiffon as compared to other selected delicate fabrics. It was noticed that delicate fabrics having lower cover factor, lesser thickness and lesser GSM as compared to other delicate fabrics are likely to cause more seam slippage. Experiments of seam puckering and seam slippage suggested that in order to get seams which satisfy the requirements of good appearance and performance for a particular sheer fabric, correct selection of sewing thread, needle and other machine parameters needs to be done. In experiments conducted in the present study, the most suitable sewing conditions for the selected delicate fabrics were optimized and are given in Table 5.3. 171

Table 5.3 Most suitable sewing conditions for the selected delicate fabrics FABRIC NEEDLE PRESSURE FOOT TYPE FEED DOG* ANGLE OF FEED DOG THROAT PLATE NUMBER Silk Georgette 7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12 Poly Georgette 7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12 Viscose Georgette 7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12 Voile 7 or 9 T.C. with rings or roller T.C. or simple Front up or straight 12 Organdy Chiffon Silk Crepe 7,9 or 11 Roller T.C. Front up 12 or 14 7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12 7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12. *T.C. indicates Teflon coating 5.1.5 Dissemination of information and its impact In order to disseminate the information gathered through literature, survey, experiences shared by respondents and results achieved from experiments, some information material in the form of booklet, book and leaflet were prepared. These prepared informational materials were given to different target groups according to their needs to generate awareness. 172

The booklet titled TIPS FOR HANDLING DELICATE FABRICS WHILE GARMENT MANUFACTURING which consisted of necessary details in the form of problems faced during garment construction and the recommended suggestions. It was made available to the heads of different departments in export houses so that they communicate the information to the workers of their departments. To judge the acceptability of the booklet an acceptability questionnaire was distributed along with the booklet. The feedback collected after three months indicated that 89% of the respondents felt that the suggestions were quiet appropriate and believed that quality of garments would improve after adoption of the suggestions. The feedback by 86.8% respondents suggested that the number of alterations and rejections decreased after adoption of suggestions. The book entitled A GUIDE TO MANUFACTURE GARMENTS USING DELICATE FABRICS which comprised of detailed information related to construction of garments from delicate fabrics was provided to various manufacturing units and libraries of various institutes and organizations (Fig.5.12). To generate awareness regarding health a booklet was made available to the heads of different departments in export houses so that they communicate the information to the workers of their department. The booklet was entitled PREVENTION AND CURE OF HEALTH ISSUES FACED BY GARMENT INDUSTRY. 173

Fig. 5.12 Informational material developed during study Leaflet suggesting simple tips and exercises related to musculoskeletal injuries entitled Jo fit vo hit was designed in hindi and was distributed among the workers of garment construction units. 5.2 CONCLUSIONS The present study revealed that the Indian garment manufacturers dealing with delicate fabrics did not have sufficient awareness and complete knowledge regarding techniques and machineries which they could use during production. Individuals involved in garment production from delicate fabrics had a strong need to upgrade their knowledge which gives them some ideas and tips to handle regular problems related to quality of manufacturing of garments. 174

Various problems which the industry is facing could be minimized by sharing the experiences of different people regarding procedure and techniques for working with sheer fabrics. To avoid seam related problems standardized techniques need to be outlined. It is recommended that in order to get seams which fulfill the requirements of good appearance and performance, correct selection of fabric, sewing thread, needle and machine parameters for all sheer fabrics needs to be standardized. Beside this, the garment industry should focus and develop good working conditions to reduce the injuries to their workers. The study shows that there is ample room for ergonomic improvements in the industry. With proper training and instructions, personal protective equipments, therapeutic exercises and ergonomically designed work systems, garment workers can manufacture products in safe and healthy workplaces. The present study thus clearly highlights that if the Indian garment industry has to perform well and grow to its full potential, this particular section where delicate fabrics are converted to the fashionable garments needs to be given adequate care. The quality of production needs to be monitored. The common problems which are being faced by various units have small remedies to which mutual sharing, training of workforce, input at small settings of machinery and technology can contribute to a great extent in ensuring a quality of produced items. Thus an ensured and upgraded quality of production can contribute to the Indian economy generating higher foreign exchange and job market for the young population of country. 5.3 IMPLICATION OF STUDY FOR THE INDUSTRY In order to sustain in any industry in the present scenario, the quality of production has to be up to the mark. In the garment industry which is fully oriented with the world of fashion, target time is also desired. 175

There are five basic requirements for running an industry successfully in the form of 5 M s. They are Manpower, Machines, Methods, Materials and Money. In the present study attempts were taken to fulfill all the basic requirements in garment industry dealing with delicate fabrics. The present study is therefore a small attempt where in gaps between the technology available and being used were identified and the collected information was provided to the beneficiaries. The flowchart below (Plate 5.3) gives a brief idea of impact this study can have on the industry if the suggestions are adopted and interventions are accepted. Plate no. 5.3 Impact of study on Garment industry Through the study we can understand the most suitable techniques and equipments used during handling and finishing of different types of delicate fabrics. The knowledge and suggestions recommended in the 176

study could be used to select the technique and machineries to enhance the quality garments and hence increase the production of garments from sheer fabrics. The experimental research findings may serve as effective guidelines for the people working in garment construction units, about ill effects of work performance due to wrong selection of sewing parameters without considering the properties of each sheer fabric. The knowledge about recommended sewing parameters will prove to be quite useful in minimizing seam related problems like seam slippage and seam puckering. The study would help the industry in reviewing the concept of work-related musculoskeletal disorders and discuss the basis of their prevention as a primary means of occupational injury and illness management. The study focused on the potential ergonomic problems and solutions that were identified through research. The informational material related to health could be useful to initiate changes in the workplace by creating a starting point for discussion and stimulating ideas on how conditions in the Indian units can be improved. In developing countries, the scale of use of human resources in laborintensive small or medium scale industries is enormous. In this situation, it must be obvious that very small improvements in working conditions, implements, tool design or working methods can lead to large benefits. The present study is an attempt in this area where the suggestions implemented may bring some changes in the industry. It is believed that occupational health programs should focus more on the informal sector, which employs a large proportion of workers. In the present study simple and scientific exercises are suggested for the workers to prevent and cure various musculoskeletal pains at various 177

body parts which can be practiced at break time. Paying attention to occupational health and safety in this sector and improving working conditions will undoubtedly have considerable impact on the national economy and the quality of people s life. Since the number of such studies conducted in developing countries has been less. The present study could serve as milestone for garment construction units handling sheer fabrics. The study can help formulate guidelines for garment construction units for safety, quality and higher efficiency of the industry at large. 5.4 LIMITATIONS OF THE STUDY The prepared informational material was given to a small group of people. This itself proves to be a major limitation of the study keeping in mind the large number of manufacturers spread in various parts of the country. Only the informational material was provided to the targeted group, training sessions were also desired to be planned for vast acceptability of suggestions and to bring some impact on the study. All problems faced during construction of garments from delicate fabrics were not handled, only the prominent ones like seam puckering and seam slippage were selected for experimenting. The impact of prepared informational material on production was not studied since it would have involved longer durations. The impact of various suggestions given in curing MSD could not be analyzed in the present study due to time constraints. 178

With changing fashion, sheer fabrics keep changing. This study was done on seven fabrics selected during the initial phase of study. Newly introduced fabrics and other sheer fabrics could not be studied in the present work. Sheer fabrics are used more for garments which are exported. Such industries are spread across the country. In the present study only Delhi and NCR region were explored and a small sample of 200 was selected which itself proves to be a limitation seeing the quantum of exports of our country. 5.5 FUTURE RESEARCH AND RECOMMENDATIONS No research work is complete and adequate in itself. There is always scope for further research irrespective of areas. The present study opens avenues for future research of which few could be accomplished in further course of action. The present research work is an attempt to explore the manufacturing techniques and machinery involved in processing of garments made of delicate fabrics. Through this study the problems involved at various levels in garment industry dealing with delicate fabrics were explored and suggestions were given to the people working in garment manufacturing units. As an impact of the foregone findings and research, following suggestions and recommendations could be implemented to add up to the research in the area of garment manufacturing. A study of longer duration for extending the knowledge to reach the beneficiaries is desired. To make an impact on the industry the present suggestions need to reach the mass. Hence an extension activity to dissipation the prepared material at larger level is desired to bring some marginal changes in the industry. 179

A study which would include preparation of training material, video documentaries and printed material with necessary modifications for the beneficiaries needs to be planned. There are various export oriented units in southern part of India and in other areas of the country. For bringing effective results in the garment manufacturing industry dealing with delicate fabrics, the suggestions regarding standardized method and techniques adopted need to reach various areas of the country. Various workshops and training programmes need to be designed for the actual workforce involved in the industry so that the whole industry works towards increasing and improving productivity. Beside delicate fabrics, other fabrics which are being used also need to be explored. A survey needs to be done to analyze the problems with other fabrics, so that appropriate suggestions and awareness can be created among manufacturers. This would increase total exports from India thus bringing increase in countries foreign currency. The study indicated that manufacturers are facing a lot of problems during processing of garments. Due to limited time and resources experiments were focused on seam puckering and seam slippage. Suggestions for other problems were mainly based on available literature, survey and experiences shared by the people involved in this profession and experts. Thus a separate study can be taken up on various other problems faced by manufactures. 180