Sewing. # Yanna Jo Doll. Fulk-size Patterns for 22" Doll and Clothing

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Sewing LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Yanna Jo Doll Fulk-size Patterns for 22" Doll and Clothing Click Here to sign up for the FREE Leisure Arts E-newsletters at www.leisurearts.com to receive free projects, book reviews, handy tips, and more Inspiration! Originally published in Leaflet 1267, Yanna Jo Seams Like Yesterday 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

DEDICATION From time to time, our lives are touched by people who possess a special gift for living. Viewing everything with childlike wonder, they bring great joy to our adult world. Yanna Jo Lamb Hester, one of our former coworkers, was such a person. When she died on April 6, 1990, Yanna left us a legacy rich in love, hope, and joy. We are grateful for having known her and dedicate this project to her loving memory. SUPPLIES 1 yd 38"w medium weight muslin for doll and pantalettes 1½ yds 44/45"w fabric for dress and bonnet ½ yd 44/45"w handkerchief linen or lightweight muslin for pinafore 2 ¼" dia buttons 2¾ yds ⅝"w gathered lace 1 yd ⅞"w flat lace ⅔ yd 3 /8"w black grosgrain ribbon 3 10" lengths of 1 1 /16"w satin ribbon for bonnet 1¾ yds ⅛"w satin ribbon for bonnet ⅔ yd ⅛"w elastic ⅓ yd ¼"w elastic Sewing thread Embroidery floss to match bonnet fabric Polyester fiberfill Knitting needle (for stuffing) Hand sewing needle Chenille needle Supplies for adding facial details, hair, and shoes (Refer to Pencils, Markers, and Paint for colors used on photo model.) Matte finish clear acrylic spray #4 flat paintbrush Deco Art Americana sealer/finisher gloss Aleene s Tacky All Purpose Glue Tracing paper Ruler #2 pencil Fabric eraser (soft white eraser) Straight pins Small safety pin Scissors Sewing machine Iron Pressing cloth 12 tablespoons instant coffee 12 cups warm water Large container for coffee dyeing (minimum 16 cups) Spray bottle (optional, for coffee dyeing) PENCILS, MARKERS, AND PAINT Instructions for adding facial details, hair, and shoes give general color names. The following chart lists the brands and types of pencils, markers, and paint used on the photo model. Brand Name & Color General Color Name Berol Prismacolor Art Marker PM67 lt brown Berol Prismacolor Pencil 903 lt blue Berol Prismacolor Pencil 929 lt pink Delta Fabric Dye grey dk grey Marvy Fabric Marker grey grey Marvy LePlume marker no. 1 black Marvy LePlume marker no. 6 brown Marvy LePlume marker no. 9 dk pink Marvy LePlume marker no. 17 blue PREPARING FABRICS AND LACES 1. Wash and dry fabrics and laces. (Note: Do not use fabric softener in the washer or dryer; fabrics and laces will not accept coffee dye well when fabric softener has been used.) 2. Thoroughly mix 12 tablespoons instant coffee with 12 cups warm water in large container. Place fabrics and laces in container and soak until desired color is attained. Coffee dyed items will be darker when dry than when wet. (Note: Due to variances in fiber content, dyeing times of items may vary from 2 minutes to 30 minutes or more.) Wring out excess coffee and allow items to dry. If color of dyed items varies greatly when dry, use the following methods to make color consistent: To add color, spray with coffee and allow to dry. To remove color, rinse in cool water and allow to dry. 3. Using pressing cloth to protect iron, press dyed items. MAKING THE DOLL (Note: For all machine stitching, use a 1 /4" seam allowance unless otherwise indicated. Backstitch at beginning and ending of each stitching line. Trim seam allowances to 1 /8"; clip curves and corners. When stuffing doll, pull off small amounts of fiberfill and pull fibers apart; use knitting needle to push fiberfill into curves and corners before firmly stuffing body, legs, and arms.) 1. Trace Body, Arm, and Leg patterns (pgs. 8 9 and 12-13) onto tracing paper; cut out traced patterns. (Note: When tracing Body pattern, it is not necessary to trace facial features or hair.) On traced leg pattern, draw shoe outline with black marker. LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 2 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

2. Matching selvages, fold medium weight muslin in half. Matching directional arrows on patterns to lengthwise grain of fabric, pin traced patterns to muslin; cut out muslin pieces. 3. Matching edges, place one muslin body piece over Body pattern on pgs. 8 9; use #2 pencil to lightly trace facial features on muslin. This will be right side of body front. 4. Matching right sides and raw edges, pin and stitch body pieces together, leaving bottom edge open for turning and stuffing. 5. Turn body right side out. Press bottom edge under 1 /4". Stuff body. Whipstitch opening closed. 6. Matching edges, sandwich traced leg pattern between two muslin leg pieces; pin layers together. Use #2 pencil to lightly trace shoe outline on each muslin leg piece. This will be right side of leg. Repeat for remaining muslin leg pieces. 7. Matching right sides and raw edges, pin and stitch two leg pieces together, leaving top edge open for turning and stuffing. Repeat for other leg. 8. Turn legs right side out. Press top edge of each leg under 1 /4". Stuff each leg up to 1½" from top edge. 9. Match seams of one leg and stitch across leg 1" from top edge (Fig. 1). Repeat for other leg. Fig. 1 11. Matching edges, place one muslin arm piece over Arm pattern on pg. 12; use #2 pencil to lightly trace stitching line across arm on muslin. This will be right side of arm. Repeat for a second arm piece. 12. Matching right sides and raw edges, pin and stitch one marked and one unmarked muslin arm piece together, leaving top edge open for turning and stuffing. Repeat for other arm. 13. Turn arms right side out. Press top edge of each arm under 1 /4". Stuff each arm up to ½" from drawn line; stitch across arm on drawn line (Fig. 3). Use fabric eraser to carefully erase pencil markings. Fig. 3 10. With body and toes facing forward, refer to Fig. 2 and whipstitch pressed edges of legs to bottom seam of body. Fig. 2 14. Add a small amount of fiberfill between stitched line and top edge of each arm. 15.With thumbs pointing up, whipstitch pressed edges of each arm to side seam of body (Fig. 4). Fig. 4 LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 3 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

16. (Note: Practice making facial details on a scrap of coffee-dyed muslin before working on doll. When using markers and pencils, make light strokes at first; then, add more color if desired. When using markers, allow colors to dry between steps.) Refer to photo and add facial details as follows: a. Use blue to outline irises and to shade irises as shown in Fig. 5. Fig. 5 Fig. 8 d. Use grey to shade above eyes (Fig. 8). Fig. 9 e. Use lt pink to color lips and to blush cheeks and chin (Fig. 9). Fig. 6 b. Use lt blue to fill in remaining colored portion of irises (Fig. 6). Fig. 10 f. Use dk pink to outline lips and to shade corners of mouth (Fig. 10). Fig. 7 c. Use blue to add fine lines to irises (Fig. 7). 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc., 5701 Ranch Drive, Little Rock, AR 72223. All rights reserved. This digital publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution of this digital publication or any other Leisure Arts publication, including publications which are out of print, is prohibited unless specifically authorized. This includes, but is not limited to, any form of reproduction or distribution on or through the Internet, including posting, scanning, or e-mail transmission. We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in individual work. LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 4 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

g. Use brown to draw eyebrows, eyelashes, eyelids, pupils, nostrils, line between lips, and chin (Fig. 11). Fig. 11 17. Referring to Body pattern, use lt brown to draw curls on front of head. Draw curls on back of head. Referring to photo, use lt brown to fill in hair between curls. 18. Lightly spray doll s face and hair with clear acrylic spray to keep details from smudging. Allow to dry. 19. Referring to photo and following shoe outline, use dk grey to paint shoes; allow to dry. Apply sealer/ finisher gloss to shoes; allow to dry. 20. Refer to Fig. 12 and use black to outline each shoe. Fig. 12 MAKING THE CLOTHING (Note: For all machine stitching, use a 1 /4" seam allowance unless otherwise indicated. Backstitch at beginning and ending of each stitching line. Clip seam allowances at curves and corners. Press seam allowances open unless otherwise indicated.) DRESS 1. For dress front and back, cut two 14" x 15" pieces of fabric with 15" edges on lengthwise grain of fabric. 2. For sleeves, cut two 10" x 6½" pieces of fabric with 6 1 /2" edges on lengthwise grain of fabric. 3. For ruffle, cut two 3½" x 30" pieces of fabric with 3½" edges on lengthwise grain of fabric. 4. To mark shoulder seams on wrong side of one dress piece, use #2 pencil to mark a point 3" from each side edge (Fig. 14). Fig. 14 21. Cut two 10" lengths of 3 /8"w black grosgrain ribbon; tie each length in a bow. Refer to Fig. 13 and glue one bow and one button to each shoe. Fig. 13 5. Matching right sides and raw edges, pin and stitch dress front and back together from each mark to side edge (Fig. 15). Fig. 15 LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 5 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

6. On dress front and back, press neck edge under ¼" between shoulder seams. Topstitch ⅛" from pressed edge, pivoting at each shoulder seam (Fig. 16). Fig. 16 12. Matching right sides and raw edges, pin and stitch dress front to dress back from hemmed edge of one sleeve to bottom edge of dress, pivoting at underarm (Fig. 18). Repeat for other side seam. Turn dress right side out. Fig. 18 7. To gather neckline, cut a 10½" length of ⅛"w elastic. Matching ends, fold elastic in half to find center. On wrong side of fabric and ⅜" from neck edge, pin center of elastic to one shoulder seam and ends of elastic to other shoulder seam. Beginning at one end of elastic, stitch elastic to fabric, stretching elastic to fit neckline as it is stitched in place. 8. To hem each sleeve, press one long edge under ¼"; press under ¼" again. Topstitch ⅛" from pressed edge. 9. To mark placement of elastic on wrong side of each sleeve, use #2 pencil and ruler to draw a line 1" from hemmed edge of sleeve. 10. Cut two 6" lengths of ⅛"w elastic. Stitch one length of elastic to wrong side of each sleeve along drawn line, stretching elastic to fit sleeve as it is stitched in place. 11. Matching right sides and short raw edges, fold one sleeve in half to find center. Matching right sides and raw edges, and matching center of sleeve to shoulder seam of dress, pin and stitch sleeve to dress (Fig. 17); press seam allowance toward sleeve. Repeat for other sleeve. Fig. 17 13. Matching right sides and raw edges, pin and stitch ruffle pieces together at both short ends, forming a loop (Fig. 19). Fig. 19 14. Matching wrong sides and long raw edges, fold ruffle loop in half; press. Refer to Fig. 20 and baste ⅛" and 1 /4", from raw edges of ruffle through both thicknesses. Pull basting threads to gather ruffle to fit bottom edge of dress. Distribute gathers evenly. Fig. 20 15. Matching right sides, raw edges, and seams, pin and stitch ruffle to bottom edge of dress. Press seam allowance toward dress. LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 6 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

BONNET 1. Cut one 18" x 14" piece of fabric with 14" edges on lengthwise grain of fabric. 2. Press each short edge of fabric under ¼"; topstitch ⅛" from fold. 3. For front of bonnet, cut an 18" length of ⅝"w lace. Press each end under ¼". With right sides up, pin gathered edge of lace to one long edge of fabric; baste ¼" from gathered edge of lace (Fig. 21). Fig. 21 Fig. 23 8. For lacing on back of bonnet, cut an 18" length of ⅛"w satin ribbon. Thread chenille needle with ribbon; knot one end of ribbon. Refer to Fig. 24 and lace back of bonnet as follows: Bring needle up at 1 from inside of bonnet; go down at 2 and up at 3, etc. Continue in this manner, coming up at odd numbers and going down at even numbers until lacing is completed. Knot ribbon close to fabric on inside of bonnet. Trim end close to knot. Fig. 24 4. Matching right sides and long edges, fold fabric in half. Stitch long edges together along basting line. Turn bonnet right side out and press. 5. For ribbon casing at back of bonnet, topstitch ¼" from fold (Fig. 22). Fig. 22 9. Refer to Fig. 25 and use #2 pencil to lightly mark a point on each side of bonnet, ¼" from bottom edge of bonnet and 1½" from outer edge of lace. Fig. 25 6. Cut an 18" length of ⅛"w satin ribbon. Using a small safety pin attached to one end of ribbon, run ribbon through casing, gathering fabric and leaving 6" of ribbon extending from each end of casing. Tie ends of ribbon in a bow. 7. Whipstitch gathered edges together at back of bonnet (Fig. 23). LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 7 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

Match arrows on Body Part 2 to trace a complete pattern. Body Part 1 cut 2 LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 8 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

Match arrows on Body Part 1 to trace a complete pattern. Body Part 2 cut 2 LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 9 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

Part 1 Match arrows on Pinafore Back Part 2 to trace a complete pattern. LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 10 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

Pinafore Back Part 2 Match arrows on Pinafore Back Part 1 to trace a complete pattern. LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 11 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

Part 1 Match arrows on Leg Part 2 to trace a complete pattern. LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 12 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

Leg Part 2 Match arrows on Leg Part 1 to trace a complete pattern. LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 13 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

10. Cut a 24" length of embroidery floss. Using all 6 strands, thread chenille needle with floss; knot one end of floss. Bring needle up from inside of bonnet at mark. Keeping stitches 1½" from outer edge of lace, follow Fig. 26 and work Running Stitches (approximately 4 per inch) through both thicknesses of fabric. End at mark on opposite side of bonnet with floss on inside of bonnet. Remove needle and leave end of floss free. Running Stitch: This is a series of straight stitches with the stitch length equal to the spaces between stitches. Bring needle up at 1; go down at 2 and up at 3, etc. Fig. 26 11. Repeat Step 10 to work two more rows of Running Stitches, ¼" and ½" in from the first row of stitches, keeping stitches even with first row (Fig. 27). Use fabric eraser to carefully erase pencil markings. Fig. 27 Fig. 28 14. For lace circle on bonnet, cut an 8" length of ⅞"w lace. Thread sewing needle with a length of sewing thread; knot ends together. To gather one long edge of lace, make a few small stitches to secure thread at one end of lace; work Running Stitches (approximately 8 stitches per inch) close to long edge. Do not clip thread. 15. Pull thread to gather lace tightly (Fig. 29); make a few small stitches to secure gathers. Shape lace into a circle. Overlap short ends of lace ¼" and stitch together (Fig. 30). Knot and clip thread. Fig. 29 Fig. 30 12. Place bonnet on doll. Pull free end of each length of floss and gather front of bonnet to fit doll. Distribute gathers evenly. Knot free ends of floss together; clip ends close to knot. Remove bonnet from doll. 13. Cut one 12" length of ⅛"w satin ribbon. Thread chenille needle with ribbon; knot one end of ribbon. On one side of bonnet, refer to Fig. 28 and bring needle up from inside of bonnet at middle row of Running Stitches. Remove needle and knot ribbon close to outside of bonnet. Knot ribbon 1" from free end. Repeat for tie on other side of bonnet. 16. Refer to photo to tack lace circle to inside edge of bonnet. Tack outside edge of bonnet behind lace circle to third row of Running Stitches. 17. Tie three 10" lengths of 1 /16"w satin ribbon together in a bow. Glue bow to center of lace circle. PINAFORE 1. For neckband, cut one 1½" x 40" piece of fabric with 1½" edges on lengthwise grain of fabric. For pinafore front, cut one 15½" x 12" piece of fabric with 12" edges on lengthwise grain of fabric. 2. Trace Pinafore Back pattern (pgs. 10-11) onto tracing paper; cut out traced pattern. On traced pinafore back pattern, draw pleat lines with black marker. 3. Matching short edges, fold remaining pinafore fabric in half. Matching directional arrow on pattern to lengthwise grain of fabric, pin traced pattern to fabric; cut out fabric pieces. 4. Matching edges, sandwich pattern between pinafore back pieces; pin layers together. Use #2 pencil to lightly mark pleats and dot on each pinafore back piece. This will be right side of each pinafore back piece. LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 14 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

5. To make pleats on one pinafore back piece, refer to pattern and match solid lines to dashed lines, folding in direction of arrows; pin in place. Baste across upper edge of pleats ¼" from top edge (Fig. 31); press. Repeat for other pinafore back piece. Fig. 31 9. Baste across upper edge of pleats ¼" from top edge (Fig. 34); press. Fig. 34 6. Referring to Fig. 32 and starting at top edge, edgestitch pleats for 2". Use fabric eraser to carefully erase pencil markings. Fig. 32 10. Referring to Fig. 35 and starting at top edge, edgestitch pleats for 2". Use fabric eraser to carefully erase pencil markings. Fig. 35 7. Matching short edges, fold pinafore front in half; press fold. With long straight edge of pattern lined up with fold of fabric, sandwich pinafore back pattern between halves of pinafore front; pin layers together. Use #2 pencil to lightly mark pleats on each half of pinafore front. This will be right side of pinafore front. 8. To make pleats on pinafore front, refer to Fig. 33 and match dashed lines to solid lines, folding in direction of arrows; pin in place. Fig. 33 11. Matching right sides and side edges, pin one pinafore back piece to pinafore front. Stitch pieces together from bottom edge of pinafore to dot (Fig. 36). Repeat for other side seam. Fig. 36 LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 15 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

12. On pinafore front, press each side edge under 1" at neck edge and taper to ¼" at bottom of armhole opening (Fig. 37); on each pinafore back piece, press side edge under ¼" from neck edge to bottom of opening. Fig. 37 15. Press back and bottom edge of pinafore under ¼" Topstitch ⅛" from pressed edge (Fig. 40). Fig. 40 13. At each armhole opening, refer to Fig. 38 and topstitch ⅛" from each fold on pinafore front and back, pivoting and stitching across bottom of opening. Trim seam allowance of pinafore front to ¼". Fig. 38 16. At each armhole opening, tack top edges of pinafore front and back together at basting lines (Fig. 41). Fig. 41 14. Matching right sides and beginning with one end of ⅝"w lace even with back neck edge of pinafore, pin and baste gathered edge of lace to back and bottom edge of pinafore (Fig. 39); trim end of lace even with opposite back neck edge. Fig. 39 17. With right sides up and turning end of ⅝"w lace under ¼" at each back edge of pinafore, pin and baste gathered edge of lace to neck edge of pinafore (Fig. 42). Fig. 42 LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 16 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.

18. Matching short ends, fold neckband in half to find center. Matching right sides and raw edges, and matching center of neckband to center front of pinafore, pin and stitch neckband to pinafore neck edge over lace. 19. Press all remaining raw edges of neckband under ¼". 20. Matching wrong sides and pressed edges, fold neckband in half, covering seam allowance of pinafore; pin in place. Topstitch ⅛" from pressed edges of neckband (Fig. 43). Fig. 43 3. Matching raw edges, pin and stitch muslin pieces together at sides (Fig. 45). Fig. 45 4. Cut one 9½" length of ⅞"w lace. Matching right sides, pin and baste one long edge of lace to bottom edge of one pant leg (Fig. 46). Repeat for other pant leg. Fig. 46 PANTALETTES 1. Cut two 10" x 12" pieces of medium weight muslin with 12" edges on lengthwise grain of fabric. 2. Matching long edges, fold each muslin piece in half; press and unfold. On each muslin piece, begin at bottom edge and cut 6½" along fold (Fig. 44). This will be inner leg edge. Fig. 44 5. Press bottom edge of each pant leg under ¼". Topstitch ⅛" from pressed edge (Fig. 47). Fig. 47 6. Matching right sides and raw edges, pin and stitch muslin pieces together at inner leg edges, pivoting stitching at point (Fig. 48). Clip seam allowance to point. Fig. 48 7. For casing at waist, press top edge of pants under ½"; press under ½" again. Stitch close to lower fold, leaving a 1" opening to insert elastic. 8. Cut a 10" length of ¼"w elastic. Using a small safety pin attached to end of elastic, run elastic through casing. Stitch ends of elastic together; stitch opening closed. Turn pants right side out. LeisureArtsLibrary.com #800613 Page 17 of 17 2008 by Leisure Arts, Inc.