NINJA ATTACK! Find More Pa erns Online: Web: h p://www.itsybitsyspidercrochet.com

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NINJA ATTACK! Find More Pa erns Online: Web: h p://www.itsybitsyspidercrochet.com Email: ibscrochet@gmail.com

NINJA ATTACK! The other day, I was thinking... there are so many annoying people out there. That guy in the fast lane driving 55 miles per hour and talking on his cell phone... That lady who clearly saw you wai ng in line yet felt it was her right to jump ahead of you when the store finally opens a new register... You know... those mes. PATTERN NOTES For the project used in the photos, I used Knit Picks Brava worsted weight yarn in the following colors: Brava Worsted Brava Worsted Brava Worsted Cream Rouge Black Pa ern instruc ons are wri en for the girl ninja (pink with braids). To make a boy ninja, choose your desired body color and leave the braids off. So what if... what if we had li le ninjas for those moments of annoyance and we could just give those people a li le what for? I m not advoca ng violence or anything... but come on... wouldn t you like a li le ninja of your very own? MATERIALS Knit Picks Brava worsted weight acrylic yarn in desired body color and cream (for face) Fiber fill Black embroidery floss Size F (3.75 mm) hook Embroidery needle Yarn Needle S tch Marker STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS CH Chain S tch SC Single Crochet HDC Half Double Crochet DC Double Crochet TC Treble (Triple) Crochet DECR Single Crochet Decrease SL Slip S tch ST/S S tch/s tches MM Move Marker FO Finish Off COPYRIGHT Copyright 2012 by Karla Fitch. No part of this pa ern may be reproduced or disseminated in any other way without express wri en consent from the author. I WILL send my ninjas a er you!

PART 1: HEAD The head is made using two different yarn colors: your body color (which makes up the ninja s costume) and cream (used for the ninja s face). If you are unfamiliar with using two different colors of yarn at the same me, please see the end notes on this pa ern for instruc ons. Round 1: CH 2. 6 SC in second chain from hook. Place s tch marker in the last SC to mark the end of the round. Round 2: 2 SC in each ST around (12 SC). MM. Round 3: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in next. Repeat from * around (18 SC). MM. Round 4: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next two STS. Repeat from * around (24 SC). MM. Round 5: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next three STS. Repeat from * around (30 SC). MM. Round 6: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next four STS. Repeat from * around (36 SC). MM. Round 7: Work 12 SC in body color, then join cream. Working in cream and carrying body color loosely behind, work 12 SC. Work remaining 12 SC in body color (36 SC). MM. Note: See end notes for photos and instruc ons on working with two colors at the same me. Rounds 8-9: Work 12 SC in body color. Working in cream and carrying body color loosely behind, work 12 SC. Work remaining 12 SC in body color (36 SC). MM. Round 10: Work 12 SC in body color. Working in cream and carrying body color loosely behind, work 12 SC. Break cream. Work remaining 12 SC in body color (36 SC). MM. Note: See end notes for photos and instruc ons on hiding the tail from the color you just finished. PART 1: HEAD CONTINUED Rounds 11-12: SC in each ST around (36 SC). MM. Round 13: *DECR across two STS and SC in each of the next four STS. Repeat from * around (30 SC). MM. Round 14: *DECR across two STS and SC in each of the next three STS. Repeat from * around (24 SC). MM. Round 15: *DECR across two STS and SC in each of the next two STS. Repeat from * around (18 SC). MM. Round 16: *DECR across two STS and SC next. Repeat from * around (12 SC). FO and stuff head with fiber fill. PART 2: MASK The mask is worked across a single row of chain s tches. Depending on how big your head came out (you should have a pre y good idea a er stuffing), you may need to adjust the length of the founda on chain. Row 1: CH 49 (or number of STS needed to wrap completely around the head with tails to e) Row 2: SL 8, SC 2, HDC 1, DC 2, then TC 1. CH 12. Skip 12 STS in the founda on chain, then TC 1, DC 2, and HDC 1. Note: If you worked more than 49 CH in the founda on chain, this next sec on is where you can make up the extra STS. SC 11 (or number of STS needed to get to the last 8 CH). SL 8 and FO, leaving a long tail to sew the mask in place. Con nued, next column.

PART 3: HEAD FINISHING 1. Using black embroidery floss and embroidery needle, s tch eyes. Tip: You can also use plas c safety eyes. For this size doll, I recommend using 9mm eyes. If making a girl doll, con nue with steps 2-6. Otherwise, skip to step 7. 2. Cut six 6-8 inch pieces of black yarn (or desired braid color). 3. Using crochet hook, pull all six strands through the back of the head. Note: I posi oned my braids between rounds 8-9, spaced about 5 STS apart. PART 3: HEAD FINISHING 7. Place mask with opening over the eyes and gently e behind the head. Tip: It s OK if the mask doesn t completely fit at this point, you will be stretching the mask into place as you sew it on. 8. Staring at the knot in the back, sew the mask in place with the le over yarn tail. As you work your way around the head, gently pull the mask to cover the edges of the face and the points where you pulled the yarn for the braids into the head. 4. Knot strands and gently tug so that the knot goes up inside the head. 5. Braid strands (using two strands for each part of the braid) 6. Repeat for second braid. Your finished head should appear as shown in the above photos. Con nued, next column.

PART 4: LEGS MAKE 2 Work legs in the body color in a spiral round. Round 1: CH 2. 6 SC in second chain from hook. Place s tch marker in the last SC to mark the end of the round. Round 2: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next two STS. Repeat from * around (9 SC). MM. Round 3: Working in outside loops only, SC around (9 SC). MM. Round 4: DECR across first two STS. SC in each of the remaining seven STS (8 SC). MM. Round 5: DECR across first two STS. SC in each of the remaining six STS (7 SC). MM. Rounds 6-11: SC in each ST around (7 SC). MM. Note: FO a er round 11, leaving a tail for sewing. PART 5: ARMS MAKE 2 The first two rounds on the arm is made with cream. A er round 2, switch over to your body color to make the rest of the arm. PART 7: BODY Work the body in the desired body color. Round 1: CH 2. 6 SC in second chain from hook. Place s tch marker in the last SC to mark the end of the round. Round 2: 2 SC in each ST around (12 SC). MM. Round 3: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in next. Repeat from * around (18 SC). MM. Round 4: *2 SC in first SC, 1 SC in each of next two STS. Repeat from * around (24 SC). MM. Rounds 5-6: SC in each ST around (24 SC). MM. Round 7: *DECR across two STS and SC in each of the next two STS. Repeat from * around (18 SC). MM. Rounds 8-10: SC in each ST around (18 SC). MM. Round 11: *DECR across two STS and SC next. Repeat from * around (12 SC). Rounds 12-13: SC in each ST around (12 SC). MM. Note: FO a er round 13, leaving a tail for sewing. Round 1: With cream, CH 2. 8 SC in second chain from hook. Place s tch marker in the last SC to mark the end of the round. Round 2: SC in each ST around (8 SC). Break cream. Round 3: Join body color and SC in each ST around (8 SC). MM. Round 4: *DECR across first two STS, SC in each of next two STS. Repeat from * once more (6 SC). MM. Rounds 5-10: SC in each ST around (6 SC). MM. Note: FO a er round 10, leaving a tail for sewing.

PART 8: ASSEMBLY 1. Stuff legs with fiber fill and s tch in place using le over tails, as shown. 2. Stuff body with fiber fill. 3. Center head on body and s tch in place using the le over tail from the body, as shown below. END NOTES: BASIC COLORWORK HOW TO To make your ninja s face, you need to know some basic colorwork techniques namely, how to work with one color while holding the other behind your piece. At round 7 in the head, you need to work 12 SC STS, then join the cream. When joining yarn in this way, you can usually do so without using a knot (make sure you do leave a tail inside the piece though!). A er making the last s tch in your first color: 1. Put your hook through the next s tch and draw up a loop of the new color. 2. Then yarn over (YO), and draw through both colored loops on your hook. 4. Pinch tops of arms together and s tch in place using le over tails. 3. Your first SC s tch in the new color is made. 5. You re all done ready your ninja for a ack! Con nued, next page.

BASIC COLORWORK CONTINUED Con nue to work along in the new color un l you need to change again (for this pa ern, 12 SC STS). To change: 1. Leaving enough slack so that your work remains nearly flat, pull the le over tail from the first color across the back of your piece. BASIC COLORWORK CONTINUED I typically do not knot off a er finishing a colorwork sec on. Instead, I like to hold the tail end of the old color on the inside of my piece and s tch right over it. This works best with SC or HDC s tches that are really ght. So, to finish your colorwork sec on: 1. Cut off the color you want to finish, leaving a roughly one inch tail. 2. Put your hook through the next s tch and draw up a loop of the old color. 3. Then yarn over (YO), and draw through both colored loops on your hook. 2. Holding the tail to the inside of your piece, SC right over top. You ve just changed colors again! The hidden tail will look like this: As you work (and con nue changing colors), the back size of your piece will become a zig-zag of yarns. This is NO BIG DEAL because it s going to be on the inside of your piece. I hope this helps you get started with what can some mes look like a very in mida ng technique. Enjoy! Con nued, next column.