PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

UNICLIC INSTRUCTION Groove Tongue PLEASE READ THIS FIRST It is wise to spend some time on planning before you start installing your new flooring. Read all of these instructions and if anything is unclear, please contact your supplier. Preparations The sub floor must be dry, flat and level. The minimum requirement in terms of floor flatness (evenness) is shown in this table: Distance over which evenness measured, Meters Tolerance, mm Deviation 2.0 ± 2 mm To ensure satisfactory installation, greater deviation in either direction (i.e. projections or depressions) in excess of the figures in this table must be removed, by smoothing the floor as appropriate. A suitable leveling compound should be applied to concrete sub floors, while wooden floors should be planed, sanded or filled. Limit moisture content: In case of a new concrete sub floor wait 6-8 weeks before starting installation. As a precaution against remaining moisture apply a 0,2 mm polyethylene moisture barrier. Overlap seams with 30 cm and tape. Extend underlay up all walls. After having installed the skirtings, cut underlay at the upper edge of the skirtings, it is necessary that a sheet of polyethylene film 0,2 mm thick is installed. Subfloors. Fitted carpets of normal or deep pile will usually have to be removed, but vinyl floor coverings, linoleum or carpets without pile (such as carpet tiles) can be left in place. If you are installing 14 mm wood flooring on polystyrene foam, the foam density should be 30 kg/m3 or 20 kg/rm if the foam has integral stabilizing strips. As a general rule, the lengths of wood flooring should be laid to run the length of the room. If the product is to be laid on old floor boards which are warped, it should be laid at a right angle to the run of the floorboards, or alternatively these should be sanded flat first. On existing floorboards or chipboard floors, lay paper underfelt or polyethylene foam (max. thickness 2 mm) beneath the wood flooring. Before it can be installed, the wood flooring must be stored at room temperature for at least 48 hours in unopened packs. The product must always be installed in premises at a temperature of at least 17 C. The relative humidity of the air in the room must be 30 60%. Check that there will be adequate clearance for doors to open and shut once the new flooring is in place. You may need to shorten doors by planing a few millimeters off at the base, or you may be able to adjust door height at the hinges. Before starting actual installation, check whether the first board (or row of boards) will need to be sawn lengthwise. If the width (=planks side by side) of the area to be covered is greater than 8 m and the length (=plank after plank) is greater than 12 m, or if it is complex (non-rectangular) shape, extra expansion gaps must be left at suitable intervals. Avoid installing several rooms in one piece. Make sure to leave expansion gaps in door openings between the rooms. Heavy things such as open fireplaces, kitchen cabinets or heavy bookshelves should not be installed on top of the wood floor. This might affect the floors natural movements and cause gaps along the joints. TOOLS Using suitable tools in good condition helps make the job easier and achieve the best possible results. You will need most or all of the following: Line (similar to chalk line/plumb line). Tapping block, folding rule, tri-square, saw (finetoothed), sharp knife (for fine-adjustment etc), hammer, wood blocks, wooden wedges, paper underfelt or polyethylene foam, pencil, end puller (a special tool for the last board(s) before the wall). Available from flooring suppliers or good hardware stores. Coping saw (for sections near pipes etc.). Brace and bit (for holes for pipes. The bit should be 20 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe). Also, if required: Pipe collars (spacers). 0.2 mm age-resistant HD plastic sheeting, leveling compound. To allow for sufficient expansion under architraves without leaving a visible gap, it may be necessary to cut off the bottoms of architraves. To do so, use an offcut of the board beneath the saw to make the cut at the precise height required. (See picture 12A.) Important: Prior to installation, inspect the boards in daylight for any visible faults or damage and also check color and structure. No claims are accepted once flooring boards have been installed. 1

How to install the floor ( Floating installation ) 1 Apply a 0.2 m m polyethylene moisture barrier over concrete floor Overlap seams with 30 cm and tape. Extend the moisture barrier up all the walls. Cut off the upper plastic sheet after you install the skirting. Apply a 20 kg/m3-30 kg/m3 polystyrene foam underlay on top of the 0.2 mm polyethylene. Foam Underlay Overlap 30cm 0.2mm Moisture Barrier 2 Lay out the first two rows of planks facing the wall and install from right to left. The side tongue should be facing the wall. Rip off all the side tongues of the first row so that the edge is flush against the wall. Rip off all end tongues on the end of the first plank and all subsequent planks facing the wall so that the ends are flush against the wall. Cut off tongue Cut off tongue Right to Left Installation 3 Start installation with 4 planks labeled a s 1, 2, 3 & 4. With your front facing the wall, lay the floor from Right to Left. Cut Plank 2 to 1/2 its original length. Trim off the end tongue so that it is flushed against the wall.place the trimed end of plank 2 against one wedge so that there is a 10 mm expansion gap between plank 2 and the wall. This is the correct expansion gap for normal size dwellings and it must be incorporated to allow natural movement in the flooring material since wood expands and contracts with variation in air humidity. At the end of the installation, the expansion gap is concealed by skirtings or mouldings. Any damaged or defective boards should be put to one side. They may be usable later as end sections. Please note that an expansion gap must be left at all sides of the floorings, including door sills, pipes, staircases and etc. For larger rooms, allow an expansion gap of at least 1.5 mm for each meter of the floor s width. You must not under any circumstances allow the thickness of the skirtings to determine or limit the width of the expansion gap. At a slight angle, insert the tongue of Plank 2 into the groove of Plank 1. Then press downward until the joint locks. If the joint remains slightly open, tap it in with the palm of your hand. 4 Now join end of plank 3 to plank 1 by placing the tongue end of plank 3 on top of groove end of plank 1. Press down plank 3 and ensure that it aligns to Plank 1. 5 There will be a 4-5 mm gap at the joints. Then use a tapping block to tap in from the groove end of plank 3 into the groove end of plank 1. Place the tapping block against the face end and tap the plank in. Face Tapping block Hammer Groove end 6 Insert plank 4 tongue end on top of plank 2 groove end. Gently raise plank 4 side tongue to fit into plank 1 & 3 side groove. Push plank 4 inwards with your hands until the plank fits into planks 1 & 3. If necessary, tap with a tapping block from the side groove of plank 4 to align the planks together. Then tap in from the groove end of plank 4 into plank 2. 2

7 Assemble plank 5 & 6. Cut off planks 5 & 6 to fit and leave about 10 mm expansion gap against the wall. Balance piece of plank 5 goes to the 3rd row and balance piece of plank 6 goes to the 4th row. Row 3 8 When tapping at the end of the row, use an end puller to tap the end in. 9 Use a suitable line (chalk line/plumb line) to check that the laid floors are straight after the 1st two rows. Start the row 3 with balance plank from plank 5. As you continue row by row, don t forget to arrange the planks so their ends are staggered at least 50 cm apart. Min 50 cm apart 10 The last row of planks will usually need to be cut lengthwise to fit. If you have calculated in advance that the last row will need to be cut to a size narrower than 5 cm, it is preferable to cut both the first and the last row of planks lengthwise, so neither is too narrow. To scribe the line for cutting the last row of planks, lay the last plank on top of the 2nd to last row of planks. Use a short full width offcut of wood flooring on top of that with its tongue edge against the wall to scribe the line of the wall on the plank to be cut. Then adjust the cutting line to take into account of any difference needed between the width of the tongue and the actual expansion gap needed. Saw the plank following the scribe. 11 End by angling the last plank into place and press it down. Use the end puller to correct the alignment if necessary. Insert the wedges. 12 For door frames and pipes, please cut to fit. 3

13 To complete the job, fit the skirtings. Leave adequate clearance between flooring and skirting so that the floor is not jammed tight. If one edge of the floor is to be open ended (i e not adjacent to a wall), a suitable moulding should be fitted to compensate for the height difference. A special end moulding can be used adjacent to door sills. Any coverings used on the floor must be guaranteed as permeable to moisture and must not discolor the flooring finish. Left to Right Installation 14 All steps are the same except for different orientation of the starting point and for step 4, 5 & 6 In this case, for step 4 & 5, insert the groove end into the tongue end and then press down. Flush Reducer T Mould Glue bond Lap Reducer Nail or Glue bond 10 mm Expansion Space Quarter Round 10 mm Nail or Glue Nail or Glue Expansion bond bond Space 10 mm Expansion Space There should be 4-5 mm gap at the joint. Use a tapping block and hammer to tap inwards from the tongue end to flush the joints. Please note that using this method may require more tappings at the tongue end in order for the click at the groove end to snug into the tongue end. In case for step 6, insert plank 4 groove end into the tongue end of plank 2. The rest of the procedure would be similar to Right to Left installation. Hardwood floor over underfloor heating If the following instructions are observed, Universal wood floor can be installed over water or electric (self adjusting) underfloor heating systems. The two wood types beech and maple are not suitable for subfloor heating. The natural movements in these woods are larger than in other woods. The maximum surface temperature of the woodflooring must not exceed 27 C (70 F) anywhere in the room. Preparatory measures with newly installed underfloor heating systems. Before the installation is started - the moisture content of newly installed heatable sub floors must be checked and the results must be kept in a record from at least 3 different spots of the floor. The measuring spots must also be noted for rechecking purpose. 1. The cement screed must be laid professionally as per German standard DIN 18353. In this regard, also comply with the instructions for heated floor construction issued by the Central Association of the German Construction Industry. The minimum waiting time after installation is 21 days. It is imperative that joints or cracks in the cement are filled if the woodfloor is installed glued to the subfloor. This is done by filling with two-component artificial resin. Expansion joints provided by the heating manufacturer must be retained. 2. When heating up the cement floor, increase the flowpipe temperature by about 15 C (41 F) each day until the max heating temperature of 45 C (113 F) is attained. 3. Heat for 7 days at 45 C without interruption. 4. Reduce heat by 15 C (41 F) daily until temperature on the 37th day drops to +25 C. 5. Switch off the heating system for 7 days. 6. Increase heat for 4 days until temperature reaches 45 C (113 F) and, starting on day 49, reduce heat to 25 C (77 F) once again. The schedule includes the minimum of heat-up days. Each additional day is useful to reduce the humidity and provides additional security. Start laying the wood flooring on day 51. The flowpipe temperature is kept at 25 C during this period. 7. The woodfloor can now be laid. Observe the above installation instructions. The surface temperature of the screed must be min 18 C (65 F) and the relative humidity during installation must be 30 to 60%. 8. The conditions specified in 7. must be maintained for at least another 5 days after installation. 9. The underfloor heating can now be heated up during the heating period. Important: We can t assume any liability unless the heat-up record is filled out and signed. 4

Preparatory measures with existing underfloor heating systems: With warm-water type underfloor heating systems that have already been in use for several heating seasons, we recommend before installing the flooring to raise the flow temperature to 45 C (113 F) and maintain this temperature for one week without interruption, and then reduce the flow temperature again to 25 C. As it is impossible to take into account the entire vast range of floor heating system products, please address any inquiries to the dealer or the manufacturer of floor heating. Room climate What is good for people is also good for hardwood floors. We recommend a room temperature of 20 C (68 F). The relative humidity must be between 30 and 60% all year around with special attention to the heating season. To prevent the wood from drying out, which may cause the development of smaller gaps between the flooring elements, it is advisable to use an electrical humidifier (evaporator), right from the beginning of the heating season. Preventive protection: To preserve the quality and beauty of your hardwood floor we recommend using protective pads under chairs and furniture legs. Place quality walk-off mats at entrances, garages or basements to minimize tracked in dirt, grit and moisture. Chair castors and office roller chairs must comply with the DIN EN 12529. Use only lined rollers or type W (soft). UV-LACQUERED FLOORS Care and maintenance Arena wood flooring has a durable coating of Mara-Thon, a UV-lacquer with improved scratch resistance. We do not recommend sanding and re-coating of a newly installed floor, as a manually applied coating can never be as good as factory applied Mara-Thon. Vacuum clean the surface regularly. If necessary, the floor can be cleaned with a damp cloth that is well wrung. A few drops of a mild detergent may be added to the cleaning water. Never splash water on the floor. Oil, rubber and asphalt stains can be removed with white spirit. General cleaning and maintenance Vacuum or sweep the floor daily. Wood floors should be wiped regularly with a slightly dampened cloth. Add wood floor soap to the water when you clean your oiled parquet. Use two pails: One with soap water and one with clean lukewarm water. Soak the cloth in soap water and wring it well before you wipe the floor. Rinse the cloth in the pail with clean water when needed. Note: Do not wipe the floor afterwards with pure water and do not use microfiber cloths or mops. Wood floor soap does not only clean the floor, it also forms a protective film on the surface that will keep dirt away from the wood floor. Wipe the floor with soap solution several times during the first couple of weeks until a protective film has formed on the surface. Never splash water on the floor. Thorough cleaning. If the floor is heavily soiled, use intensive wood cleaner. Wipe the floor with the soap solution immediately after the intensive cleaning to make sure that a new protective film forms. Renovation A floor that begins to look grey or dull after a long time of wear can be freshened up with a thin layer maintenance oil. Before this oil treatment, the floor has to be thoroughly cleaned with intensive wood cleaner and then dry for 4-8 hours. Oil treatment. Apply wood floor oil thinly with machine, roller or a cotton cloth. When the floor shows a low-gloss satin sheen the right amount of oil is applied. Take care not to leave a layer of oil on the floor surface. Polish the floor carefully afterwards with a soft cotton cloth or a white polishing pad. You may step on the floor after 4 hours. Wait at least 24 hours before you wipe it with wood floor soap. Caution: To avoid spontaneous combustion it is important that you soak all oily cloths, pads etc in water immediately after use and then let them air-dry. You will find more information about wood flooring maintenance products at specialised retailers. OILED WOODFLOORING Maintenance instructions for oiled wood flooring Oiled parquet adds a natural and comfortable feeling to your home. To make sure that you will enjoy it for a long time, it is important that your floor is properly maintained from the beginning. Gradually, it becomes more and more hardwearing and easily maintained as the surface treatment forms a protective film that will keep dirt away from the wood floor. How to care for your floor directly after installation Your Arena wood floor has been oiled with natural colored or white oil at the factory. In order to give your floor a longlasting protection, it is important that you clean the floor from dust and wipe it with wood floor soap immediately after the installation (see general cleaning instructions below). 5