2/20/12 Copyright 2009 Fairchild Books Beyond Design By Sandra J. Keiser and Myrna B. Garner All rights reserved. No part of this presentation covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems without written permission of the publisher. ISBN: 978-1-56367-960-5 PowerPoint developed by Elizabeth Law GST R 133004424 Quality Chapter 12 Beyond Design 1
Chapter Objectives Define concept of quality Understand role of quality in product development process Relate concepts of quality in a firm s standards to written quality specifications for products Chapter Objectives Know government and voluntary requirements for product labeling and safety standards in apparel products Understand basics of stitch, seam, and edge finish requirements for production of quality products Become familiar with array of criteria used to evaluate quality of products before, during, and after assembly Quality assurance achieve consistent quality product Commitment to quality permeates entire business Requires proactive, participatory management 4 5 6 2
Every employee at every level is involved in trying to achieve error prevention, working with management team to achieve goals Making it right the first time less expensive than deciding what to do with seconds Apparel quality Physical features of design, materials, construction, and finishing Part of the physical construction of product Quality performance Aesthetic (quite subjective) Functional 7 8 9 3
Functional performance Utility and durability Usefulness (fit, comfort, care) Durability retain appearance after purchase shrinkage resistance seam strength Quality assurance is based on defect prevention rather than detection Market-driven Conformity to standards and specifications meet or exceed customer quality expectations Product Quality has two dimensions Physical features of product involve what the product really is Performance features involve what product does 10 11 12 4
Quality Standards Raw material standards used to communicate with suppliers during planning stages; help define components used in production of finished garments Garment standards diagnostic tools to measure the quality of product; defect guides (major and minor) Firms doing business with the EU may need to conform to ISO standards Quality Specifications Evolve from company standards, but more detailed Specification Libraries accessibility to previously developed style, pattern, and measurement specifications that can be recalled and reused Quality Specifications Voluntary Testing Methods on raw materials, sample garments AATCC wet or chemical testing methods ASTM dry or physical testing methods Sizing Specifications Measurements for every size Finished garments outside tolerances are unacceptable 13 14 15 5
Labeling Standards Mandatory Labeling Requirements Fiber Content Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (TFPIA) Wool must be identified; anything over 5 percent total weight Manufacturing FTC identification number or brand name for each manufacturer Country of Origin critical issue when imported (tariffs, trade agreements) Care Labeling Rule permanent Labeling Standards Voluntary Labeling Trademarks Warranties and Certification Implied Warranty products do what they are designed to do (raincoat repels water) Written - legally binding (shrinkage) Most voluntary labeling is marketing tool Union Labels Size Designation Voluntary but universal; EU requires European sizing and metric units Safety Regulations Flammability Flammable Fabric Act affects mostly infant and children s sleepwear in sizes 0-6X and 7 to 14 Requires use of fabric finishes to retard or prevent spread of flames 16 17 18 6
Safety Regulations Drawstrings and Small Parts Concerns about risks of children strangling or choking; drawstrings Rules apply to snaps and buttons; size, pull strength, and sharpness of trim items regulated Preproduction Activities Related to Fabric, Findings, and Trim Quality issues addressed Fabric testing, setting specs for fabric, findings, trim Small sample fabric yardage crocking, wrinkle resistance, colorfastness, weather resistance All components compatible Thread stringent criteria to prevent seam failure Specifications for Stitches, Seams, and Edge Finishes Stitches configurations of thread that form stitching and seams Majority of stitches made on lockstitch machine or chain-stitch machine Commercial stitches are divided into six stitch classes 19 20 21 7
Stitches Stitch classes based on: complexity configuration type of machine required to form the stitching Each class has distinct advantages and disadvantages Stitches Stitch Classes 100 stitch class single-thread chain stitches 200 stitch class hand stitches, machine imitations 300 stitch class lockstitches 400 stitch class multithread chain stitches, interlooped 500 stitch class overedge stitches, interlooped 600 stitch class cover stitches, interlooped Stitches Safety stitches Two parallel rows that produce very secure seam Generally, shorter stitches produce more durable seams 10-12 stitches per inch is average 22 23 24 8
Specifications for Stitches, Seams, and Edge Finishes Seams stitching holding fabric pieces together Seam allowance extension between the row of stitching and the edges of the fabric Seams ASTM International Standard Practice for Seams and Stitches - four seam classes: Superimposed seams (SS) Lapped seams (LS) Bound seams (BS) Flat seams (FS) Other ASTM International classes (bridge between stitches and seams): Ornamental stitching (OS) Edge finishes (EF) Seams Superimposed Seams Most used class Booked seam layers stacked to prepare Enclosed seam done in two stages Graded layers trimmed to remove bulk Lapped Seams Most variations Many very specialized 25 26 27 9
Seams Bound Seams Edges of seam enclosed in tape Used on easily raveled edges, bulky fabric Flat Seams Used rarely Look same on both sides Little bulk Edge Finishes hems and facings Assembly Overall quality standards for garment Fit evaluated and approved before production Styles must allow ease for comfort, movement Garments free of wrinkles, unless part of design Vertical seams perpendicular to floor Assembly Overall quality standards for garment (cont.) Hems parallel to floor Interlining, interfacing, and lining compatible with shell fabric in weight, color, and care Linings must not hang below hem or distort shape 28 29 30 10
Tolerances Tolerance difference between allowable minimum and maximum on process or measurement If finished garment falls between those specs, acceptable If it goes under or beyond the tolerance, rejected Some specs require exact levels, called minimums (example, number of buttons) Construction Criteria Finished garments inspected to determine if they comply with written specs In-process inspection on manufacturing floor where corrections can still be made End inspection after product is finished; more waste too late to correct flaws To ensure acceptable quality levels in finished garment, criteria must be established and communicated before production Dealing with Flawed Products Garments inspected when they come off production line or when they arrive at firm s distribution center to check compliance with written specs If not found to be first-quality (meet specs) repaired to join first-quality products sent back to contractor as unacceptable disposed of as irregulars 31 32 33 11
Dealing with Flawed Products Inspection Rate Small quantity, very high cost garment - all Very large order, random sample; if these garments meet specs, entire lot is passed; if flaws are found, may inspect all and separate flawed pieces; may simply reject entire lot Even with all precautions, human error may run about 6 percent Well-written spec packages boost potential of receiving first quality and reduce costs 34 12