Ba#k Tub Dye Method
BATIK fabric printed by an Indonesian method of hand prin#ng and coloring tex#les by coa#ng with wax the parts not to be dyed.
The Tub Dyeing method is the most tradi#onal form of Ba#k. You must use fiber reac#ve dye (Procion MX Dye) because it is cold water dye and therefore will not melt the wax. Your fabric must be natural cellulose (plant) fibers like cokon, rayon, hemp, linen, etc. We will be using cokon. (no permanent press)
This method involves an understanding of color mixing. For example, If your first dye bath is yellow and your second dye bath is blue, you will end up with green. Also, lighter colors are dyed first.
Step 1: Pre-wash your fabric, ideally with a professional dyer's product called Synthrapol. This removes most oils and finishes that could resist the dye and pre-shrinks the fabric. Wrinkles can be ironed out after washing.
Front Back Step 2: Cut cardboard as large as your fabric and cover the front with wax paper. This will be your frame to keep the fabric flat and horizontal.
Step 3: Stretch the fabric across the frame (cardboard) and pin it in place. In this example, the cardboard is also placed on 2 pieces of scrap wood, giving room for the push pins to go through the cardboard.
Step 4: The wax mixture is then melted in a double boiler, electric wax pot, or old electric frying pan set at about 220-240 (CAREFUL! If you heat the wax over it's flash point it can give off toxic smoke or burst into flames!) Always work in a well-ventilated area and keep baking soda on hand to put out any flames (not water). NEVER leave hot wax unattended.
Step 5: Apply the wax, using a natural fiber brush, a Tjan#ng, or metal stamps.
The wax should have a clear appearance, indica#ng it has penetrated to the other side. You may adjust the temperature of the wax so that it penetrates the fabric, not so cool that it sits on top (appearing white ish), and not so hot that all of your lines spread out.
Step 6: It is now #me to dye the fabric. You will need dye, soda ash, non iodized salt, urea, 5 gallon bucket, 2 mixing cups, measuring cups and spoons, a s#rring spoon and rubber gloves. Use the table below as a guide to calculate your measurements, disregarding the oil. For quil#ng weight cokon 3 yards = about 1 lb.
Step 7: Put on your rubber gloves. Mix the powdered dye with a small amount of warm water (approx. ½ cup). See table for measurement, keeping in mind that you can adjust for lighter or darker shades. Add 1 tablespoon of Urea and mix un#l dissolved. The urea helps the powdered dye to dissolve and keep your fabric from having freckles.
Step 8: In the 5 gallon bucket mix cold water and non iodized salt per measurement table. It should be enough liquid to cover the fabric completely. S#r in the dye mixture. Add the fabric and s#r gently for 20 min.
Step 9: In a small cup, mix the soda ash (per measurement table) with warm water. Slowly pour and s#r this into the bucket.
Step 10: S#r frequently for another 30 min. (more if deeper shade is desired).
Step 11: Rinse fabric in cool running water un#l the water runs clear and let dry for 24 hours.
Step 12: The final stage is to remove the wax. To do this begin by soaking the fabric in hot water with a dash of Synthrapol (approx. ½ a cap full)
Run the fabric between your fingers and thumb to break up the lines.
Step 13: Finally, you will boil out the remaining wax. This is the tradi#onal way of removing the wax. To begin, in a large pot bring water (with a dash of Synthrapol) to a boil.
Step 14: Add fabric and s#r for several minutes. Bring the water down to a simmer/boil and keep s#rring. Try to keep the fabric below the surface of the water, as the wax is mel#ng and floa#ng to the top.
Step 15: When all the wax seems to be removed, turn off the heat and let the water cool. Be sure to keep the fabric below the surface during this step. In this example the ladle and s#ck are holding the fabric down. To speed up the cooling process you can carefully pour cold water into the pot.
Step 16: Skim the cooled, hardened wax off the surface and remove the fabric.
Step 17: Give the fabric one final rinse and leave to dry. You re done!
Addi#onal Info: Tub dyeing basics (and washing machine instruc#ons)