Introduction: Hello, my name is Steve Good. I am the author of the Scrollsaw Workshop Blog. Seven years ago I started the blog and today it is read by thousands of scroll saw enthusiasts all over the world. The blog is dedicated to helping new hobbyist learn the craft and providing free patterns for all. I live in Lexington Kentucky with my wife Patty and our best friend Holly, a Multipoo puppy. We have a wonderful daughter Kellie, whom has now moved out making my wife and I empty nesters. The second editions of my Wooden Vases on the Scroll Saw book has been fun to produce. It s has taken many hours but I believe the work has paid off. There are not only different vase designs but different finishing techniques to choose from. Techniques include polymer clay inlay, pyrography, metallic paint, wood applique as well as fretwork. The instructions to complete the vases begin on page 47. The construction technique is very simple but the results are admired by anyone who sees them. I have had multiple email about the vases in the first edition selling well at Arts and Crafts shows. They also make wonderful gifts for friends and family. You may wish to start out with one of the simpler vases like The Shanghai. After you get the process down building the multi layered Tokyo can give you a show piece that your customers and friends will wonder how you did somethinh so beautiful. Thank You.
Table of Contents The Calcutta Pages 2-5 The Paris Pages 6-10 The Atlanta Pages 11-16 The New York Pages 17-19 The Los Angeles Pages 20-23 The Tokyo Pages 24-36 The Shanghai Pages 37-41 The Cairo Pages 42-46 1
The Calcutta Intermediate level vase. Three layers with intricate fretwork. 2
1 Thick Center Layer Any of the vases can be made thicker or thinner by adding or subtracting center layers. 3
1/4 Thick 4
1/4 Thick 5
This vase shows the polymer clay inlay technique. There are two different type of polymer clay that can be used. The brand I prefer is FIMO. The technique involves filling the fretwork with the oven hardened clay then sanding flush after baking. Here is a link to a video showing the process. https://youtu.be/emcgkyx1svk The Paris Easy level project requiring minimal fretwork. You can skip the polymer clay inlay for an even easier project. 6
1/4 Thick 7
1/4 Thick 8
3/4 Thick This vase has two center layers for thickness. 9
3/4 Thick This vase has two center layers for thickness. 10
This vase has plenty of room to test your pyrography skills. I have included four different patterns to decorate your vase. Simply use carbon paper to trace the pattern on to the finished vase. Use a good quality wood burning iron for best results. The Atlanta Easy level project. Don t be overly picky about your pyrography skills. The vase is suppose to look rustic. This vase is also a good candidate to personalize with custom fret work. Skip the wood burning and add the names and date of newly weds as an example 11
1 thick 12
1/4 Thick 13
1/4 Thick 14
15 Pyrography Patterns. Center on the vase.
16 Pyrography Patterns. Center on the vase.
The New York Easy Level. Simple fret work and not too difficult to sand. 17
1 Thick 18
1/4 Thick 19
There are several different metallic and textured paints on the market. This vase was painted with gold metallic paint. Before you apply a metallic paint make sure you sand the wood to at lease 320 grit. It need to be smooth. You can use an inexpensive wood like poplar if you are going to paint it. Some wood like pine don t paint well so choose carefully. The Los Angeles Very easy project. Simple wood applique pattern and easy to sand. 20
1 Thick 21
1/8 Thick 1/4 Thick 22
1/4 Thick 23
A large vase that really stands out. This is my favorite. I included and alternate pattern for the vase if you prefer a flower motif. This vase is over 14 inches tall. The pattern is cut to make it fit the page. You have to tape the pattern up before you apply it to the wood. Tape carefully so everything lines up. The Tokyo Intermediate to Advanced level. The center is three layers thick so the glue up can be tedious. Glue in stages to it is easier to clamp. Carefully align the layers as you clamp. The better your glue up the less sanding. The sanding on this vase will take some time and effort but the results are worth the time. 24
1 Thick 25
1 Thick 26
1 Thick 27
1 Thick 28
1 Thick 29
1 Thick 30
3/8 Thick 31
3/8 Thick 32
3/8 Thick 33
3/8 Thick 34
3/8 Thick Alternate Design 35
3/8 Thick Alternate Design 36
This is a good starter project to get the process down. The Shanghai Easy Level project. Very ease to cut and sand. 37
1 Thick 38
1 Thick 39
1/4 Thick 40
1/4 Thick 41
This vase shows a carved wood applique. The pattern for the applique is included. Cut the design on you saw then use a dremel tool or carving tools to give it a hand carved look. Just glue on the applique to the finished vase. The Cairo Intermediate Level. The vase is easy but the carving might be a challenge. Practice a while and you will get good results. 42
1 Thick 43
1/4 Thick 44
1/4 Thick 45
46 1/8 Thick.
I will use The Ariel for the instructions. The technique is the same for all the vases. Video instructions available at this link. http://youtu.be/ptdh1s5vzfo 47
Print out and cut the pattern for the vase. Prepare the wood. 48
Apply blue painters tape to the wood. Helps in removing the pattern and lubricationd the blade. Drill the interior holes on the front fretwork. 49
Cut the center section first. Stay on the line. This will make sanding easier. Cut out the center section. The bottom is thick to help the vase from tipping over. 50
On the front and back pieces cut just outside the pattern line. This will reduce the amount of sanding. Cut out the interior cuts on the front of the vase. 51
Remove the pattern. Sant off any fuzzies. 52
Glue the center section. Get good coverage. Glue on the front. Turn the piece over and glue the back. 53
Clamp the pieces up. Be careful to keep things lined up. Remember the front and back are slightly oversized. After the glue dries your ready to remove the clamps and start sanding. 54
Use a drum sander in your drill press or a spindle sander. You want the edges all completely flush. The goal to to feel no ridges. You might want to start out by hand sanding with 80 grit to knock down the edges quickly then go through the grits until it is smooth. 55
Flatten the top and bottom. Use sand paper on a flat surface. Move the vase back and forth until it is perfectly flat. Do the top and bottom. 56
If you have a disk sander use it to flatten the top and bottom. Be careful that the vase standd straight when you are finished. Very important step. We want to round over the edges. Use a router table if you have one. Just round over to the joint between the layers. Only do the sides. Do the front and back. 57
Finish sanding to smooth everything out. Remove any burn marks left from the router. The better job you do here then better the vase will look. If you don t have a router table you can hand route the edges. If that s not an option then you will have to hand sand the roundover. Just take your time and make it look nice. 58
You can use any technique to finish the vase you like. I use a bath in Lemon Oil first. I wipe the excess off with paper towels. The it drip dries for about and hour or until its dry. 59
For a final coat I use spray acrylic. It dries fast and if you use lite coats you can get a nice smooth high gloss finish. You can get very nice looking vases by using constrating woods for the center section, front and back. Another technique that I will discuss in detail in Volumn Two is using inlay material in the fretwork. You can also use the blank back to design your own fretwork to make a unique vase. Just use your imagination and get great results. Video instructions available at this link. http://youtu.be/ptdh1s5vzfo 60