USTER HVI CLASSIC Hossein Ghorashi
New Company 2 of 22
...for fabric inspection!...for fabric inspection! USTER Products in the Cotton Supply Chain For gin gin process controlling... fiber testing... yarn testing... yarn clearing...... 3 of 22
Worldwide Cotton Production USA 19% 5% Turkey 9% 5% Uzbekistan 5% Pakistan China (Mainland) 9% India 27% 13% 4% Australia 4 of 22
Worldwide Cotton Consumption 15% 6% 8% 3% 9% Central Asia 34% China 25% India, Pakistan & SE Asia 5 of 22
Worldwide Cotton Quality Quality Attribute Ranges (excluding Pima) Micronaire 2.7-5.9 Length 15/16-1 3/8 (32s) 0.94-1.37 (inch) 23.8-34.9 (mm) Strength 23.0-35.5 HVI g/tex Source: Cotton Varieties by Origin, Bremen Cotton Exchange 6 of 22
USTER HVI Installations Worldwide 2003 NAFTA 23% Europe 16% S.America 9% Africa & Middle East 13% Asia & Australia 39% Total: App. 1500 units in 71 countries 7 of 22
Uster HVI Installations- Asia Total Asia 518 Indonesia 32 Malaysia 4 Philippines 9 Thailand 26 Vietnam 1 8 of 22
FIBER QUALITY MEASUREMENTS RESEARCH APPLIED Institutes Machinery Manufacturers Gins Textile Mills Breeding Programs Classing Laboratories 9 of 22
GINS FIBER QUALITY MEASUREMENTS Applied CLASSING LABORATORIES TEXTILE MILLS On-Line Process Control On-Line Classing Color, Leaf Off-Line Classing Micronaire, Length, Strength Warehousing Marketing Procurement Warehousing Mix Selection Off-line Process Control 10 of 22
Manual Cotton Classification Based on: Grade: Visual classification of color and trash content Staple: Manual determination of fiber length Disadvantage: Highly dependent on human (= highly variable) Cotton Classer 11 of 22
History of Cotton Classing Edgar Degas: Portraits in a New Orleans Cotton Office, 1873 12 of 22
Instrument Cotton Classification 100% HVI test results: Micronaire, UHML, Uniformity, Strength, and color (Rd and +b) Short Fiber Index, a direct measurement from fiber length distribution Leaf Grade is the only quality parameter still assigned by a (human) USDA Cotton Classer Advantage: Improved Accuracy of Cotton Classification Provides common language in international cotton transactions 13 of 22
Instrument Cotton Classification Color and Trash Rd = Reflectance; the whiteness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers +b = Yellowness; the yellowness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers Color Grade = Combination of Rd and +b; representing official USDA Upland Grade Standards Trash Count = the number of trash particles in the cotton sample on the measurement area Trash Area = indicates the size of trash in the cotton sample covering the measurement area Trash Grade = Determined by Trash Area, and compared to USDA Leaf Grade Standards 14 of 22
USDA Cotton Classification Since 1991: 100% USTER HVI Cotton Classification 15 of 22
Cotton Classing Operations Examples of Cotton Classing Operations using USTER HVI Instruments: Classing Organization USDA (USA) China Uzbekistan Brazil (BOLSA) Brazil (SGS) Australia India (Maharastra) Zimbabwe Ownership Government Government Government Private Private Private Government Private 16 of 22
GINS FIBER QUALITY MEASUREMENTS Applied CLASSING LABORATORIES TEXTILE MILLS On-Line Process Control On-Line Classing Color, Leaf Off-Line Classing Micronaire, Length, Strength Warehousing Marketing Procurement Warehousing Mix Selection Off-line Process Control 17 of 22
USTER HVI Textile Mill Applications Results Affecting Your Bottom Line Standard Cotton Classification worldwide Common language for the seller and buyer of cotton Verifies cotton quality and insures the buyer that he received what he paid for Warehousing based fiber quality Uniform and optimized lay-downs insures desired end quality of yarn Process optimization 18 of 22
USTER HVI Application Example Fabric Barré 19 of 22
USTER HVI - Application Example Causes of Fabric Barré %Contribution Raw Material Variation (Fiber) 70% Yarn Count Variation 10% Yarn Twist Variation 10% Yarn Hairiness Variation 10% Variation in raw material (cotton lay-downs) is the major cause of fabric barré 20 of 22
Cotton Fiber Development Seed is planted (U.S.: Late April, early May) 2 weeks later, 2 leaves appear on the cotton plant At 5-6 weeks, the 1st flower bud appears; at 8-10 weeks, the 1st flower blooms; flowers fall off, leaving bolls Seed hair starts to grow inside the bolls 21 of 22
Cotton Fiber Development closed boll open boll Dead Fiber Immature Fiber Normal Fiber In 16-18 days, the fibers grow in their perimeter (diameter) and length For the next 22-50 days, cellulose is deposited inside the hollow fibers When the deposit of cellulose stops, the boll dries up and cracks open 22 of 22
USTER HVI - Application Example Fabric Barré: Acceptable variation of Micronaire between bales within 1 lay-down: Micronaire 4.7 4.6 4.5 4.4 4.3 4.2 4.0 3.9 3.8 3.7 3.6 Recommended CV < 10% 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Bale Number Avg. 4.1 CV 17.7% 23 of 22
USTER HVI - Application Example Fabric Barré: Acceptable change in average Micronaire From lay-down to lay-down Micronaire 4.5 4.4 Maximum ± 0.1 4.3 4.2 4.1 4.0 3.9 3.8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Lay-down number 24 of 22
USTER HVI - Application Example 30.0% 25.0% 20.0% 15.0% 10.0% 5.0% 0.0% 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 LOT #7 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7 Micronaire Raw Material Control Single lot = 100 bales = 100% Micronaire Distribution = normal LOT #7 50.0% 40.0% 30.0% 20.0% 10.0% 0.0% 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 Maturity Maturity Distribution = normal 25 of 22
USTER HVI - Application Example 20.0% 15.0% 10.0% 5.0% 0.0% 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 LOT #1 4.5 4.7 4.9 Micronaire 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7 Raw Material Control Single lot = 100 bales = 100% Micronaire Distribution = Outlier LOT #1 40.0% 35.0% 30.0% 25.0% 20.0% 15.0% 10.0% 5.0% 0.0% 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 Maturity Maturity Distribution = Skewed 26 of 22
USTER HVI - Application Example Fabric Barré Prevention: Do not exceed a change in average Micronaire from mix to mix of more than +/- 0.1 Micronaire Maintain low variation of Micronaire within mix (CV below 10%) Do not place groups of bales with same Micronaire side by side in lay-down Additional Maturity Index information helps eliminating outlier bales in the lay-down 27 of 22
USTER HVI - Application Example Fabric Barré Prevention: ALL LOTs 14% 12% 10% 8% 6% 4% 2% 0% 5% Mature = GOOD 2% Immature = BAD 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7 Micronaire Use new Maturity Index to detect outliers! Not all bales with a Micronaire below 4.0 are immature fibers Not all bales with a Micronaire between 4.0 and 4.4 are mature fibers 28 of 22
Introducing : USTER HVI CLASSIC Need : The need for a lower priced HVI was noted Objective :The objective was to provide the same quality and functions of an Uster HVI Classing Solution :Refurbished HVI 29 of 22
Introducing : USTER HVI CLASSIC What is it? USDA purchases 30-40 HVI Classing annually The same number of HVI are traded with the new ones The best of the trade-ins are selected, refurbished by changing the moving components This HVI is meticulously tested using standard qualification procedures This is HVI Classic, Carries a 6 months warranty and is guaranteed a performance equivalent to the new units 30 of 22
USTER HVI CLASSIC Instrument in L-Shape Configuration 31 of 22
USTER HVI CLASSIC Basic Functions Measurements of cotton fibers (bale Samples): Length and Uniformity Short Fiber Index Strength and Elongation Micronaire and Maturity Index Color (Reflectance and Yellowness) Trash (Particle Count and % Area) Cycle time: 30 seconds for 1 Micronaire, 2 L/S and 2 C/T tests per sample Throughput: 700 800 samples/ 8-hour shift with 1 operator 32 of 22
USTER HVI CLASSIC Fully automated HVI Micronaire Color/ Trash Length/ Strength Fully automated operation reduces operator influence to a minimum Measures both roller- and saw-ginned cotton according to ASTM standards 33 of 22
USTER HVI CLASSIC Unique Algorithms Additional customer value provided by unique algorithms: Expected waste levels indicated by the amount of short fibers (SFI = Short Fiber Index) in the cotton bale SFI also indicates how aggressive the cotton was ginned Micronaire alone does not prevent fabric barré if cottons from different growth areas are used The Maturity Index allows for better evaluation of such cottons 34 of 22
USTER HVI CLASSIC Basic Functions Data Report 35 of 22
USTER FIBER TESTING Thank you for your attention! Questions? 36 of 22