BIRDING THE DONANA AND GUADALQUIVIR MARSHES OF SOUTHERN SPAIN IN EARLY FEBRUARY 2007

BIRDING THE DONANA AND GUADALQUIVIR MARSHES OF SOUTHERN SPAIN IN EARLY FEBRUARY 2007 Authors: J L and P J SHARP INTRODUCTION This is a report of a three day visit to the Donana area during which highlights included hundreds of flamingos, storks, avocets, stilts plus a full panorama of cranes. There was plenty of water in the various lakes, marshes and nearby fields, generously topped up with rain during the first two days of our visit. As a consequence areas of bare mud for small waders to probe were nonexistent. The sections below cover our itinerary, the various annoyances we had to contend with, bird list and travel / accommodation details. ITINERARY Our evening flight landed in Jerez, and as it was dark we proceeded to our hotel in Sanlucar de Barrameda. The plan was to start birding as soon as it was light with a sea watch from the base of the lighthouse in Chipiona. We then travelled back round Sanlucar, acquiring the food and water we would need for breakfasts and lunches for the rest of the visit, and headed north east up the east bank of the Guadalquivir, birding various sites along this side of the river as far north as the ferry at Coria before heading to Hinojos, our base for the next two nights. The following two days we birded sites south from Hinojos and El Rocio before heading back to the Coria ferry mid-afternoon for our evening departure from Jerez airport. We had to modify our pre-trip plan as rain made various tracks impassable, sadly making several good birding sites unreachable in our vehicle. This rain meant we had to maximise the use of the car as a hide and any hides that were available on the reserves. The site names are those used by F C Moreno and J G Gutierrez in Where to watch birds in Donana. The following birds were seen commonly at most sites and are only referred to subsequently in the checklist: Corn Bunting, Common Buzzard, Chiffchaff, Coot, Cormorant, Collared Dove, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Goldfinch, Little Grebe, Black-headed, Lesser Black-backed (LBBG) and Yellow-legged Gulls, Marsh Harrier, Grey Heron, Common Kestrel, Lapwing, Crested, Lesser Short-toed and Sky- larks, Mallard, Moorhen, Meadow Pipit, House Sparrow, Stonechat, Swallow, White Wagtail. Day 1: 2 nd February 2007 We extricated ourselves with some difficulty from Sanlucar town centre, headed for Chipiona and once there followed signs to the lighthouse. Unhelpfully the wind was offshore, but before long a group of group of Balearic Shearwaters passed by. The gulls present were mainly LBBG s and Black-headed, with a few Yellow-legged and Slender-billed. We saw the only Grey Plover of the trip. Several hirundine species were foraging on a fairly cold morning but no swifts. From Chipiona we drove to the Bonanza saltpans. Here birds of note were a single Common Crane flying by, hundreds of Greater Flamingos, 4 Bar-tailed Godwits, 9 Black-necked Grebes, a Greenshank, 2 Slender-billed Gulls, a few House Martins, a Kingfisher, 6 Redshank, about 40 Shelduck, 30 Black-winged Stilt, and a confiding Black Stork. We travelled on to La Laguna de Torelo, where the star birds were the 109 White-headed Ducks and roosting Night Herons. A few Sand Martins were resting on the wires of a sheltered fence. Four Pochard were seen here as were a Robin, and Sardinian Warbler. To our

surprise, a bird we were hoping for at Chipiona lighthouse area was spotted, a Little Swift. This was accompanied by larger swift which was Common Swift rather than Pallid which we thought would have been more likely. Next we visited the Algaida salt pans. Hundreds more Greater Flamingos were present and about 40 Shelduck. One or two Great White Egrets, Black-necked Grebes, Slender-billed Gulls, Black Storks, Caspian Terns and Fan-tailed Warblers were found. A nearby area with barns where hay was provided to supplement the grazing of cattle had many seed eating birds including Tree and Spanish Sparrows, Reed Bunting and Chaffinch. We retraced our steps to follow the east bank of the Guadalquivir river northwards along the La Carretera del Practico (or Via Plastico) to conclude our days birding near the ferry crossing at Coria. During this we found: Greylag Geese (~30), Black-tailed Godwits (14), Stone Curlew (17), Great Crested Grebe (4), Osprey (7), Pochard (9), Red-legged Partridge (2), Golden Plover (6) Black Storks (8), White Storks (200+), Purple Swamp-hens (2) and 40-50 Spotless Starlings. One or two of the following were spotted: Greenshank, Hen Harrier, Booted Eagle, Redshank, Spoonbill and Fan-tailed Warbler. Works and then impassable mud at the southern and northern access points to the Brazo del Este effectively ended our days birding. Day 2: 3 rd February 2007 We started at El Rocio, where pools of water almost reached the Blanco Palomar church. However between the rain drops on our optics we saw Greater Flamingo (~200), Gadwall (4), Black-tailed Godwit (~20), Greylags (~50), Black-necked and Great Crested Grebes (~4), Glossy Ibis (~100), Red Kite, Common (lots) and Red-crested Pochard (4), Raven(3), Redshank (8), Black Redstart (many), Green Sandpiper, Serin, Shoveler (lots), Common Snipe, Spoonbill (2), Teal( 6), and Cetti s Warbler. Continuing heavy rain put us off attempting the poorer tracks and roads in the Donana area and encouraged us to seek the shelter of the El Acebuche Visitor Centre and hides. On parking we could immediately hear numerous Azure-winged Magpies. We then walked the trails in the area and visited several viewing areas. The birds identified included: Common Kingfisher, Wood Lark, Common Magpie (easily outnumbered by Azure-winged), Redlegged Partridges, Water Rail, Common Snipe, Crested Tits, Dartford and Cetti s Warblers. At El Acebuche the weather gradually cleared encouraging us to visit the Canada de la Rianzuela area. En-route we stopped to watch at a hunched- up, soggy-looking Blackshouldered Kite, before arriving at La Ventilla, a small lagoon just west of Venta del Cruce where we saw our first Hoopoe of the trip, a pair of Southern Grey Shrikes and more Serin. At Canada de la Rianzuela White Storks sabre-rattling courtship displays were occurring at nest sites on every large tree. Other birds of note were Tufted Duck (6), Booted Eagle (2), Greater Flamingo (~500), Black-tailed Godwit (~100), Greylag Geese (~20), Black-necked Grebe (~20), Greenshank (~40), Glossy Ibis (~200), Jackdaw (~20), a Red Kite, Spotted Redshank (~20), Wood Sandpiper (3), Shelduck, Spoonbill (2), Black-winged Stilt (~20) and two Great Tit. We concluded the days birding driving along the Entrevados were we had excellent views of a male Hen Harrier, before the deteriorating quality of the un-surfaced track dissuaded us from continuing any further. Day 3: 4 th February 2007 At last we had some dry warm sunny weather with tracks drying out. At dawn a Little Owl flew across the road as we headed south from Hinojos to Vado de Don Simon. We started birding at Dehesa de Pilas and followed a route which took us along the Cano del Guadiamar,

heading south-west to the J A Valverde Visitor Centre, from which we attempted to head east, before the road conditions stopped us with just a distant glimpse of Lucio de las Gangas. This forced us to return along the Cano del Guadiamar to its northern end, from which we were able to drive north-east past Casa de Bombas to Vado de Don Simon, and on to Jerez airport via the Coria ferry. Common Cranes were very conspicuous, first near Dehesa de Pilas, north of the unpleasant plastics rubbish dump then along the Cano del Guadiamar where they formed a semicircle round us. As we travelled along this Cano we flushed forty or more Purple Swamp-hens, many carrying nesting material and saw forty to fifty Red-crested Pochard. Tufted Duck, Great White Egrets, Black-tailed Godwits, Glossy Ibis, Pintail, Golden Plover, Green Sandpiper, Black-winged Stilts and Fan-tailed Warblers were almost as common. Hundreds more Greater Flamingos, Greylag Geese and White Storks were seen. Birds of prey that were taking advantage of the break in the weather were a Sparrow Hawk, Red Kites (~20), Osprey, Peregrine and, looking west from the southern end of the Cano, a few Griffon Vultures. On the many areas of marsh and lakes we found a few more Gadwall, Black-necked Grebes, Greenshank, a single Squacco Heron, a Kingfisher and Common Snipe. On some drier areas a Stone Curlew, thirty plus Calandra Larks, a Raven, a flock of Tree Sparrows, ten or more Black Storks, several flocks of Spotless Starlings and two Hoopoes were present. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Much assistance with route and bird site finding was obtained from Moreno,F.C., & Gutierrez,J,G., Where to Watch Birds in Donana, Lynx Edicions, Barcelona, 2006. In addition to this and a motoring map of the area we used a map of the Coto Donana National Park. We appreciated the help with finding and reserving suitable accommodation provided by John Butler of Donana Bird Tours, based in Villamanrique de la Condesa. AGGRAVATIONS Hire car pick-up: At Jerez airport we picked up our hire car and drove it towards the exit of the compound, as we were about to leave someone waved what looked like a map at us. This seemed to be an attempted robbery, trying to stab a car tyre as we slowed down and immobilise us to this end. Spanish police seemed to be expecting this and the robbery was thwarted. When we arrived at our hotel, we noticed that the tyre was punctured so we needed to put the spare in its place. We think this type of robbery is a local speciality. So when collecting your hire car, lock all doors, keep the windows shut and keep moving. Road map: Since our road map had been printed, all the minor roads seem to have been renumbered. In one village as we could see the main road we wanted to join as we approached, but only found a way on to it by a process of elimination. In the end we just hoped the cars in front were heading the same way as us. TRIP BIRD LIST 1. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Common, seen both on both temporary and permanent areas of water. 2. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Common on larger, deeper areas of water.

3. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis Small flocks seen on several lakes. 4. Balearic Shearwater Puffinus mauretanicus Small flock seen during our brief visit to Chipiona lighthouse. 5. Gannet Morus bassanus A few passing the lighthouse well out to sea. 6. Cormorant Phalacrorax carbo Small groups and single birds most places. Quite large numbers occasionally seen perched in fields. 7. Night Heron Nycticorax nicticorax At a roost at Laguna el Torelo about 30 birds were visible. 8. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Only one seen near the J A Valverde Visitor Centre. 9. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Common, particularly in stockrearing areas. 10. Little Egret Egretta garzetta Common everywhere. 11. Great White Egret Ardea alba Only a single bird at the Algaida salt-pans to start with, then on day 3 about 30 were seen as single birds. 12. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Ubiquitous. 13. Black Stork Ciconia nigra Single birds graced several fields and marshes up to a maximum of ten or so per day. 14. White Stork Ciconia ciconia Our itinerary gave us numerous opportunities to view lots of these, with the most memorable being at their nest sites at Canada de la Rianzuela. 15. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Numerous in the most of the marshes, compared with our previous visits, admittedly these were at different times of the year. 16. Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia Small groups seen for example at the Via Plastico, El Rocio, Canada Rianzuela, and La Ventilla. 17. Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus Hundreds at Algaida and Bonanza saltpans and Cano de Guadiamar, about 200 at El Rocio and 500 at Canada de la Rianzuela 18. Greylag Goose Anser anser Flocks ranging in size from thirty to several hundred seen at sites such as Via Plastico, El Rocio, Canada de la Rianzuela, etc. 19. Shelduck Tadorna tadorna We saw 80-100 of these, mainly at Algaida and Bonanza salt pans, with some at Canada de la Rianzuela. 20. Gadwall Anas strepera Four were seen in flight at El Rocio, rather more were seen on the Cano del 21. Teal Anas crecca Very few seen, six at El Rocio and some on the Cano. 22. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Commonly seen often in small groups. 23. Pintail Anas acuta About fifty seen on the Cano del

24. Shoveler Anas clypeata Common at sites such as El Rocio and Canada de la Rianzuela. 25. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina A few at El Rocio, ten times as many on the Cano del 26. Pochard Aythya farina Lots present on any permanent water bodies. 27. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Six at Canada Rianzuela, lots more on the Cano. 28. White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala Seen really well at Laguna el Torelo, 109 counted. 29. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus One between Hinojos and La Ventilla. 30. Red Kite Milvus milvus One at El Rocio and another at Canada Rianzuela. Seen much more regularly in the better weather of day 3, eg in the Cano del Guadiamar area. 31. Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus Three seen soaring from the southern end of the Cano. 32. Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Come rain, more rain, or sunshine these were hunting more or less everywhere. 33. Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus A ring-tail was seen from the Via Plastico and a male from the Entrevados. 34. Sparrow Hawk Accipiter nisus One flashed past the J A Valverde Visitor Centre. 35. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Seen commonly every few stops. 36. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus One along the Via Plastico and two at Canada Rianzuela. 37. Osprey Pandion haliaetus About six along the Via Plastico, singles elsewhere. 38. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Common. 39. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus One near Hato Raton. 40. Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa Four seen at El Acebuche. 41. Water Rail Rallus aquaticus One heard at El Acebuche. 42. Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Common. 43. Purple Swamp-hen Porphyrio porphyrio Two along the Via Plastico, common along the Cano del 44. Coot Fulica atra Common. 45. Common Crane Grus grus A single fly-by bird at Bonanza saltpans was followed by hundreds in various fields near the Cano de 46. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Groups of 20 to 50 seen at many sites eg Algaida and Bonanza saltpans, Canada Rianzuela, etc. 47. Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta Reasonable numbers seen at Bonanza salt pans, and Canada de la Rianzuela. 48. Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus Flock of 17 along the Via Plastico and a lone one beside Cano del 49. European Golden Pluvialis apricaria Six seen from the Via Plastico and

Plover 40+ from the Cano de 50. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Two seen from Chipiona lighthouse. 51. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus Common on most marshes that we visited. 52. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago One seen in the reed fringe in front of the church at El Rocio and another along the Cano del 53. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Flocks of 15, 20 and 100 were seen at Via Plastico, El Rocio and Canada del Rianzuela respectively. 54. Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica Just 4 seen at Bonanza saltpans. 55. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus One at El Rocio and 20 at Canada Rianzuela. 56. Common Redshank Tringa tetanus Small flocks, up to 10 birds at Bonanza saltpans, Via Plastico, El Rocio, etc. 57. Greenshank Tringa nebularia 40 at Canada Rianzuela, otherwise single birds at Bonanza saltpans, Via Plastico, Cano del 58. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus In ones, twos and threes at Bonanza saltpans, Via Plastico, El Rocio, and many were flushed from small ditches. 59. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Three seen at Canada Rianzuela. 60. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Small numbers at the Bonanza and Algaida saltpans. 61. Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Common everywhere. 62. Slender-billed Gull Larus genii Seen at Chipiona lighthouse, Bonanza and Algaida saltpans. 63. Lesser Black-backed Larus fuscus Common. Gull 64. Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis Common. 65. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia Two were fishing at Algaida saltpans. 66. Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Seen in small numbers from Chipiona onwards. 67. Little Owl Athene noctua One seen at dawn as we left Hinojos. 68. Common Swift Apus apus We took a very good look at one hunting at Laguna Torelo. 69. Little Swift Apus affinus One overhead at Laguna Torelo we had hoped to see this species near the lighthouse. 70. Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Single birds seen at Bonanza saltpans, El Acebuche and the Cano del 71. Hoopoe Upupa epops Three at La Ventilla and two along the Cano. 72. Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra About 30 seen near the northern end of the Cano. 73. Lesser Short-toed Lark Calendrella rufescens Small groups seen in many places including El Rocio and Via Plastico. 74. Crested Lark Galerida cristata Common everywhere. 75. Woodlark Lullula arborea The only one seen was at El Acebuche.

76. Skylark Alauda arvensis Common in drier areas. 77. Sand Martin Riparia riparia A few seen with other hirundines at Chipiona, Laguna Torelo and El Acebuche. 78. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Common. 79. House Martin Delichon urbicum Common. 80. Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis Common. 81. White Wagtail Motacilla alba Common. 82. Wren Troglodytes troglodytes One calling at El Acebuche. 83. Robin Erithacus rubecula Several seen eg at Laguna Torelo, Algaida saltpans, El Acebuche. 84. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Many seen including one sheltering from the rain under the glass of a waterfront lamp at El Rocio. 85. Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Common, much more obvious on the last day. 86. Blackbird Turdus merula Odd birds seen along the Via Plastico, El Rocio, etc. 87. Song Thrush Turdus philomelos As above. 88. Cetti s Warbler Cettia cetti Some singing at El Rocio, El Acebuche, and along the Cano del 89. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Some in song flight at Algaida saltpans, Via Plastico, and many more in the brighter weather along the Cano del 90. Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata Five seen at El Acebuche. 91. Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala Seen and heard at Laguna Torelo and El Acebuche. 92. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Common everywhere. 93. Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Common everywhere. 94. Crested Tit Parus cristatus Four or five seen, several more heard at El Acebuche. 95. Great Tit Parus major Several at El Acebuche and Canada Rianzuela. 96. Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis One near La Ventilla. 97. Azure-winged Magpie Cyanopica cyanus Plentiful at El Acebuche and neighbouring woods. 98. Magpie Pica pica A few birds at El Rocio, El Acebuche, etc. 99. Eurasian Jackdaw Corvus monedula Seen, 20+, at El Acebuche. 100. Common Raven Corvus corax Three at El Rocio and another along the Cano del 101. Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor Flocks of 40-50 along the Via Plastico and Canada de Rianzuela. 102. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Common. 103. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis Six or so seen with other sparrows at Algaida saltpans. 104. Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Lots present from Algaida saltpans onwards. 105. Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Common. 106. European Serin Serinus serinus A few were present at El Rocio, La Ventilla and along the Cano de

107. Greenfinch Carduelis chloris A few present at Laguna de Tarelo, La Ventilla, etc. 108. Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Common. 109. Linnet Carduelis cannabina Small groups along the Via Plastico and the Cano de 110. Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus Seen in small numbers at most sites. 111. Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra Common. TRAVEL AND ACCOMMODATION A Ryanair flight late on Thursday afternoon to Jerez from London Stansted and back on Sunday evening gave us all the daylight hours over a three-day weekend to bird in. Our flights arrived on time or early, however if the return flight were delayed for any reason much beyond the scheduled 22.40hrs, reliance public transport connections to and in London could be a problem. We picked up a run-of-the mill two-wheel drive car at the airport. We subsequently wished we had been more persistent with trying to hire a 4-wheel drive vehicle with more ground clearance. The southern 2-3km of the La Carretera del Practico cannot be driven without risking damage to a normal car. On Friday night, we stayed at the Hotel Guadalquivir at Sanlucar de Barrameda, having an evening meal at the attached basement bar/restaurant. These arrangements were fine and the hotel was fairly well signposted. The remaining nights were spent at the Hostal Pino Donana in Hinojos on a room only basis, which was perfectly adequate. A bar/restaurant just round the corner was very popular with the locals and us as it was not too far to run in the pouring rain. We might have preferred an out of town hotel e.g. the Hotel Toruno at El Rocio, but this was fully booked.