3 ENGLISH 3 Page ( pages) ADDITIONAL INFORMATION MULTI-SIZED FOR CUSTOM FIT SIZE (S M) L XL) WIDTHS Lower edge Vest B, C 3 0 LENGTHS Finished back from base of your neck Jacket A 3 3 / / Vest B, C / 3/ / 3/ MULTI-TAILLES/A VOS MESURES TAILLE (P M) (G TG) LARGEURS à l ourlet Gilet B, C 0 0 LONGUEURS dos, votre nuque à l ourlet Veste A 0 0 Gilet B, C 0.. 3 " ( cm) * XL/Tg 3 * 0" (0 cm) * 0 SEW-IN INTERFACING B (Hair Canvas) PIECES: & A B C FABRIC CUTTING LAYOUTS Indicates Bustline, Waistline, Hipline and/or Biceps. Measurements refer to circumference of Finished Garment (Body Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease). Adjust Pattern if necessary. Lines shown are CUTTING LINES, however, /" (mm) SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED, unless otherwise indicated. See SEWING INFORMATION for seam allowance. 0" (0 cm) * S/P-M/M 3 " ( cm) ** S/P-M/M Find layout(s) by Garment/View, Fabric Width and Size. Layouts show approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary slightly according to your pattern size. All layouts are for with or without nap unless specified. For fabrics with nap, pile, shading or one-way design, use WITH NAP layout. 0" (0 cm) * L/G-XL/Tg 3 " ( cm) ** L/G-XL/Tg VEST C PIECES:, & 3 0 Position fabric as indicated on layout. If layout shows... SINGLE THICKNESS Place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics, place pile side down.) SEW-IN INTERFACING A (Hair Canvas) PIECES:,, & " ( cm) **,0" (, 0 cm) * 3 0 DOUBLE THICKNESS WITH FOLD Fold fabric right sides together. WITHOUT FOLD With right sides together, fold fabric CROSSWISE. Cut fold from selvage to selvage (A). Keeping right sides together, turn upper layer completely around so nap runs in the same direction as lower layer. GRAINLINE Place on straight grain of fabric, keeping line parallel to selvage or fold. ON "with nap" layout arrows should point in the same directions. (On Fur Pile fabrics, arrows point in direction of pile.) FOLD Place edge indicated exactly along fold of fabric. NEVER cut on this line. When pattern piece is shown like this... LINING # A (Lt.wt. Satin) PIECES: 3,,,0 & " ( cm) * 0" (0 cm) * 0 0 3 3 CONTRAST C (Upper Collar/Front Facing) PIECE:,0" (, 0 cm) * SEW-IN INTERFACING C (Hair Canvas) PIECES:, & " ( cm) ** JACKET A Front Welt 3 Pocket Back Side Back Under Collar Sleeve Cuff Lower Front And Back 0 Back Lining Front Lining Front Facing 3 Upper Collar BODY MEASUREMENTS VEST B,C Front B Welt Pocket Back Back Belt Front Lining 0 Front Facing B Front Hem Facing Front C Upper Collar And Front Facing C MENS'/HOMME SIZE/TAILLE XP S/P M/M L/G XL/TG Bust/Chest 30-3 3-3 3-0 - - Hip 3-33 3-3 3-3- - Height All Sizes Approx.0 T. de poitrine - - -0 0- - T. de Hanches - - -0 0- - Hauteur Toute Taille (environ.cm) Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this piece (A). Fold fabric and cut piece on fold, as shown (B). Cut piece only once. Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this piece. Open fabric; cut piece on single layer. Cut out all pieces along cutting line indicated for desired size using long, even scissor strokes, cutting notches outward. Transfer all markings and lines of construction before removing pattern tissue. (Fur Pile fabrics, transfer markings to wrong side.) NOTE: Broken-line boxes ( a! b!c! ) in layouts represent pieces cut by measurements provided. JACKET A PIECES:,,,,,,,, & 3 " ( cm) * S/P-M/M-L/G " * 3 JACKET [A] 3 * LINING # A (Jacket Tail-Med.wt. Satin) PIECE: " ( cm) * 0" (0 cm) * VEST B PIECES:,,0 & " ( cm) * 0 LINING B,C PIECES:,, & " ( cm) * 0" (0 cm) * S/P 0" (0 cm) * M/M-L/G-XL/Tg CT
3 Page ( pages) Under Collar SEWING INFORMATION /" (mm) SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED, (unless otherwise indicated) REINFORCE left front along inner corners of stitching lines, pivoting at small circles, as shown. Turn pocket to inside, turning welt up; press. STAYSTITCH garment neck edge between large circles. ILLUSTRATION SHADING KEY Right Side Wrong Side Interfacing Lining Underlining Press as you sew. Press seams flat, then press open, unless otherwise instructed. Clip seam allowances, where necessary, so they lay flat. Trim enclosed seams into layers Trim corners Notch outer curves Clip inner curves Baste INTERFACING to wrong side of WELT (). Sew invisibly along foldline. Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of UNDER COLLAR (). Trim corners diagonally inside seam allowances, as shown. Baste. GLOSSARY Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in Sewing Instructions are explained below. EASESTITCH-Stitch along seamline, using long machine stltches. Pull thread ends when adjusting to fit. With right sides together, fold welt along foldline. Stitch ends. Trim. Stitch pocket edges together, catching triangular ends when stitching and keeping left front free. Pin under collar to neck edge, clipping garment neck edge where necessary; baste. Stitch between large circles. Trim. NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine stitches / (mm) away in seam allowance. for more control. EDGESTITCH-Stitch close to finished edge or seam. Turn. Press. Baste raw edges together. Trim seam allowances to a scant / (mm). REINFORCE-Stitch along seamline where indicated in sewing instructions, using small machine stitches. SLIPSTITCH-Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a thread of underneath fabric. STAYSTITCH-Stitch / (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usually / (3mm) from raw edge). UNDERSTITCH-Open out facing or underside of garment; stitch to seam allowance close to seam. Pin welt to left front, placing seamline along stitching line and matching symbols. Baste. JACKET A Front On outside, EDGESTITCH ends of welt in place. Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of FRONT (). Trim corners, as shown. Baste along seamlines, center front, dart lines and stitching lines. Sleeve 3 REINFORCE POCKET (3) along inner corners of stitching lines, pivoting at small circles, as shown. Back EASESTITCH upper edge of SLEEVE () between notches. STAYSTITCH side edges of BACK () above double notches. With right sides together, pin pocket to left front, matching stitching lines and symbols. Stitch along stitching lines, pivoting at small circles. Slash along line between stitching, clipping diagonally to small circles, being careful not to cut welt. Stitch back sections together at center back. Stitch sleeve seam. Stitch dart in front. Slash to within 3 (.cm) of end. Press open. Pin SIDE BACK () sections to back, clipping back where necessary. Stitch. Stitch back and front sections together at shoulders and sides.
3 Page 3 ( pages) Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of two CUFF () sections; baste. (Remaining sections will be used as facings.) Stitch dart in LOWER FRONT AND BACK (). Press toward center back. Stitch lower front and back sections together at center back, leaving open below large circle. Lower Front and Back Pin lower front and back to lower edge of jacket, placing darts at side seams. Baste. STAYSTITCH outer edge of FRONT FACING () above notch, as shown. Stitch ends of each cuff section together. Prepare lower front and back LINING in same manner as lower front and back section. With right sides together, pin lining to lower front and back, leaving notched edge open, breaking stitching at large circle at center back. Trim. UNDERSTITCH lining as far as possible. Lining, Front Facing and Upper Collar Stitch BACK LINING (0) sections together, as shown. Do not press seam open. To make pleat in back lining, baste center back pleat lines together. Stitch along stitching line, above small circle. Press pleat toward right back. Baste across upper edge. 0 0 Pin front facing and front lining together, clipping facing where necessary. Stitch, leaving open below small circle. Press seam toward lining, pressing in remainder of front seam allowance. For facing, stitch one uninterfaced cuff section to each interfaced cuff section, leaving notched edge open. Trim. UNDERSTITCH facing. Turn; press. Baste raw edges together. Turn lining to inside; press. Baste raw edges together and along pleat lines. STAYSTITCH side edges of back lining above double notches. Stitch back lining to front facing and lining sections at shoulders and sides. Pin cuff to sleeve. Stitch. Stitch again / (mm) away in seam allowance. Trim close to second stitching. Press seam toward sleeve. Turn in seam allowance on lower edge of front and back lining; press. With right sides together, pin sleeve into armhole, matching symbols. Adjust ease; baste. Stitch. Stitch again / (mm) away in seam allowance. Trim close to stitching. Press seam allowances flat. Turn seam toward sleeve. (A) Try on garment for shoulder pad placement. Pin pad to garment, extending outer edge about / (mm) beyond armhole (B) Sew pad to shoulder; tack ends to armhole, as shown. To make pleats in lower front and back, on outside, crease along lines of small circles. Bring creases to lines of large circles; baste, through all thicknesses. Baste across upper raw edge. Press. Pin side back LINING sections to back lining, clipping back lining where necessary. Stitch. STAYSTITCH facing and lining neck edge between large circles, as shown. A B Stitch dart in FRONT LINING (). Slash to within 3 (.cm) of end. Press open.
3 Page ( pages) Pin upper collar, facing and lining to under collar and jacket. Stitch front opening and lapel edges, stretching front to fit between large circles ending at upper large circles. Stitch collar edges together between large circles, stretching under collar to fit. Turn facing and lining down. SLIPSTITCH pressed edge over seam. Sew lining to front facing below small circle. VEST B,C NOTE: Illustrated for View B, unless otherwise indicated. Pin UPPER COLLAR (3) to neck edge of facing and lining, matching large circles and placing triangles at shoulder seams, clipping facing and lining where necessary. Baste. Stitch between large circles. Trim. Front 3 View B: Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of FRONT (). Trim corners, as shown. Baste along seamlines, center front, dart lines and stitching lines. Turn facing and lining to outside along seam. Pin to lower front and back. Stitch lower edges together, keeping lining free. Trim. Tack sleeves at shoulders and underarms. EASESTITCH upper edge of sleeve LINING between notches. Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of FRONT (). Trim corners, as shown. Baste along seamlines, center front, dart lines and stitching lines. Finishing Stitch sleeve lining seam. Turn facing and lining to inside, turning lower front and back down and collar right side out; slip sleeve lining in place. Press. SLIPSTITCH pressed edge of sleeve lining over seam. REINFORCE inner corner of front, pivoting at small circle. Clip diagonally to small circle. Make buttonholes in left front at markings. Sew buttons to right front at markings. Turn in / (.cm) on lower edge of sleeve lining; press. Views B,C: With right sides together, pin sleeve lining into lining armhole, matching symbols. Adjust ease; baste. Stitch. Stitch again / (mm) away in seam allowance. Trim close to stitching. Press seam allowances flat. Turn seam toward sleeve lining. Lift up facing and lining; sew neck seams together loosely by hand. Sew buttons to back at markings. Stitch dart in front. Slash to within 3 (.cm) of end. Press open.
3 Page ( pages) Baste INTERFACING to wrong side of WELT (). Sew invisibly along foldline. On outside, EDGESTITCH ends of welt in place. On outside, pin each belt to side edges of back, matching symbols and having raw edges even. Baste raw edges together and along stitching lines between small circles. For lining, stitch darts in remaining back section. Press toward center. Lining and Facings With right sides together, fold welt along foldline. Stitch ends. Trim. Turn. Press. Baste raw edges together. Trim seam allowances to a scant / (mm). Back View B: Stitch back and front sections together at shoulders. Pin welt to front, placing seamline along stitching line and matching symbols. Baste. Stitch darts in one BACK () section. Press toward center. (Remaining section will be used as lining.) Stitch dart in FRONT LINING (). Press toward center. Stitch front sections together at center back. With right sides together, pin POCKET () to front, matching stitching lines. Stitch along stitching lines, pivoting at small circles. Slash along line between stitching, clipping diagonally to small circles, being careful not to cut welt. Cut BACK BELT () along cutting line indicated on Pattern Tissue. View B: STAYSTITCH inner curved edge of FRONT FACING (0) below upper notch. 0 For right belt, fold longer back belt section along foldline. Stitch long edges together. Stitch end without symbols in a / (mm) seam. Trim. Turn pocket to inside, turning welt up; press. For left belt, fold shorter back belt section along foldline. Stitch, long edges together. Trim. STAYSTITCH neck edge of back. Stitch FRONT HEM FACING () to front facing. Press seam toward hem facing. Turn. Press. Baste raw edges together. Pin front and back together at shoulder and neck edges, clipping back neck edge where necessary. Stitch, pivoting at small circles. Trim neck seam. Press neck seam toward collar. Stitch pocket edges together, keeping front free. Slip straight end of left back belt through bar of buckle. Turn back along foldline, turning under / (mm) on raw edge. Stitch in place, as shown, through all thicknesses. SLIPSTITCH side edges.
3 Page ( pages) With right sides together, pin facing and lining to vest. Stitch lower, front opening, collar and side opening edges together, leaving open above large circles at sides and stretching upper collar to fit between large circles, as shown. Stitch armhole edges together. Trim. Turn in seam allowance on side edges of lining. SLIPSTITCH edges together over seam, as shown. Pin front lining to front facing, matching symbols and clipping facing where necessary. Stitch, leaving open below small circle. Press seam toward lining. Pin front lining to upper collar/front facing, matching symbols and clipping facing where necessary. Stitch, leaving open below small circle. Press seam toward lining. SLIPSTITCH remainder of front lining to front facing. On outside, stitch belts in place along basting, through all thicknesses. Stitch back lining to front facing and lining sections at shoulders. Stitch upper collar/front facing sections together at center back. Turn lining to inside by pulling front sections through shoulders and both out one side opening in back. UNDERSTITCH lining at armhole as far as possible. View B: STAYSTITCH neck edge of back lining. Make buttonholes in left front at markings. Sew buttons to right front at markings. Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of UPPER COLLAR AND FRONT FACING (). Trim corners, as shown. Baste. Pin upper collar/front facing and lining sections to back lining together at shoulder and neck edges, clipping back neck edge where necessary. Stitch, pivoting at small s. Trim neck seam. Press neck seam toward upper collar. Make buttonholes in left front at markings. Make buttonholes in right front at upper and lower markings. Sew buttons to fronts at markings. REINFORCE inner corner of upper collar/front facing, pivoting at small circle. Clip diagonally to small circle. STAYSTITCH inner curved edge of upper collar/front facing below upper notch. Joining Lining and Side Seams Starting (cm) above armhole seam and ending at large circle, stitch back to front sections at sides and lining edges together in one continuous seam, as shown. View B: With right sides together, pin facing and lining to vest. Stitch lower, front opening, neck and side opening edges together, leaving open above large circles at sides, as shown. Stitch armhole edges together. Trim. Finishing On inside, sew buttons to left front facing at upper and lower markings. Stitch FRONT HEM FACING () to upper collar/front facing. Press seam toward hem facing. Sew front hem facing in place, catching one layer of pocket when stitching. Turn in / (.cm) on lower edge of front lining and place folded edge / (.cm) over raw edge of front hem facing; SLIPSTITCH. (Note: A pleat will form at lower edge for wearing ease.)