Bohemian Shoulder Bag First published in BERNINA International s Inspiration magazine, Special Issue Living 2012. Step-by-step samples and photos by Gayle Schliemann. materials and tools ½ yard 100% silk dupioni in royal blue 1⅛ yards blue fabric (for lining and appliques) ½ yard denim (for strap) Pieces of silk dupioni in red, turquoise, purple, and light green (for appliqued circles and stripes) ½ yard pompom trim (or other dangling ribbon) ½ yard sequin tape or other trim Iron-on Swarovski rhinestones and applicator Isacord embroidery thread in coordinating colors Construction thread to match bag Fabric glue stick Small, sharp scissors Rotary cutter, ruler, and mat Edgestitch foot (BERNINA Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D Braiding foot (BERNINA Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C Open-toe foot (BERNINA Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C BERNINA Circular Embroidery Attachment #83 Looking for a fun and practical project for sewers of all levels? This cool-looking bag goes from super simple to super trendy with plenty of options for embellishment. Enjoy playing with decorative stitches on your machine and splash some color in the process. Walk away (and around!) with a casual bag that shows some serious groove. 1 Prefer to embroider your embellishments? Download the free design from www.bernina.com/ en-us > Free Downloads > Inspiration Special Issue Living US > Design #S812. You ll also need embroidery software and accessories, including your largest hoop, OESD MediumWeight Cut-Away stabilizer, and 505 temporary fabric adhesive spray.
step one Cut the following: Two 12ʺ x 17ʺ rectangles of royal blue silk dupioni Cut two 8ʺ x 40ʺ rectangles of denim Cut two 17ʺ x 19½ʺ rectangle of dark blue lining fabric Assorted 12ʺ-long strips of silk dupioni, each 1ʺ to 4ʺ Want a copy of this issue of Inspiration? Visit http://www.bernina.com/en-us/ MetaCenter-us/Inspiration-Magazine Stabilize the remaining dark blue fabric with medium-weight cut-away stabilizer, affixing it with fabric adhesive spray. step two Cut pieces of stabilized dark blue fabric large enough to accommodate the applique circles. 12ʺ circle (cut at least 14ʺ square) 9ʺ circle (cut at least 11ʺ square) 6½ʺ circle (cut at least 8ʺ square) 5ʺ circle (cut at least 6ʺ square) step three Attach the circular embroidery attachment and open-toe embroidery foot to your machine. Prefer to embroider the circles? See page 5. Mark the center of the large rectangle with a water-soluble marker. Place the fabric on the pin of the circular embroidery attachment. Don t poke yourself! step three Mark the center of one circle-accommodating fabric piece with a water-soluble marker. Place the fabric on the pin of the circular embroidery attachment. Don t poke yourself! 2
step seven Place a piece of silk dupioni over the pin. Place the rubber stopper over the pin. Set the circular embroidery attachment at the shortest setting. step eight Straight stitch around the circle, making sure the fabric lies flat and doesn t wrinkle. Trim the excess fabric from the outside of the stitched circle. Do not remove the fabric from the attachment until all of the circular embellishments are complete. step nine Set your machine for a satin stitch: Stitch Width = 3.5 mm, Stitch Length = satin stitch setting (about 0.3 mm). Sew over the straight stitching all around the circle. step ten Raise the presser foot and move the circular embroidery attachment out one or two clicks as desired. Select a stitch from your machine s decorative stitch menu. Change to a different thread color if desired. Stitch completely around the circle. 3
step eleven Continue in this manner, adding stitches and changing thread colors until the circle is the 9 in diameter. Remove the embellished fabric from the attachment. TIP: Here are a few stitch suggestions! step twelve Repeat for the remaining circles using the second piece of stabilized blue silk dupioni, for a total of three circles: one 5ʺ, one 6½ʺ, and one 9ʺ in diameter. 4
Bohemian Shoulder Bag Embroidered Applique Circles Let your embroidery machine do the stitching for you! Download the free embroidery design at bernina.com/enus > Experience > Free Downloads > Inspiration Special Issue Living US. a 14ʺ x 18ʺ rectangle of blue silk dupioni for the Jumbo hoop. Stabilize by affixing a layer of cutaway stabilizer to the wrong side with temporary fabric adhesive spray. two 12ʺ x 14ʺ rectangles of lining fabric for the Large Oval hoop. Stabilize as before. Cut Embroider the small ornament on each piece. Cut out circles leaving a ½ʺ seam allowances. Cut Embroider the large ornament. Cut out the circle, leaving a ½ʺ seam allowance. Finish the circle edges: Sew a long straight stitch ⅜ʺ from the raw edges. Gather the edge, turning ½ʺ under to the wrong side; press. If you prefer a rough look, simply leave the edges exposed and do not turn them under. step thirteen Cut out circles, leaving a ½ʺ seam allowance around the outer edges. Finish the circle edges: Sew a long straight stitch ⅜ʺ from the raw edges. Gather the edge, turning ½ʺ under to the wrong side; press. If you prefer a rough look, simply leave the edges exposed and do not turn them under. 5
step fourteen Prepare the decorative strips of silk dupioni on the royal blue foundation front and back panels. Turn the edges under ¼ʺ; press. If you prefer a rough look, simply leave the edges exposed and do not turn them under. step fifteen Layout the royal blue silk rectangles and position the decorative strips on them as desired. Notice that they are 12ʺ long, the same width as the rectangles. Once the strips are arranged as you like, use the fabric glue stick to hold them in place so they don t move around as you sew. step sixteen Attach Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D to your machine. Select a straight stitch and move the needle position left three steps. Place the folded edge of a strip against the left side of the guide in the center of the foot. Stitch. Repeat for all strips. step seventeen Fold the upper edges of both panels under ½ʺ; press. Select one panel for the front of your bag. Tip: Try Binder Foot #95 for pompom trim. With only one toe, the trim won t catch on the foot as you sew. Stitch pompoms, sequins, or other trims randomly on the front panel using decorative stitches of your choice. 6
step eighteen Stitch the long strips of denim (the strap pieces) to the right and left edges of the front panel, aligning the lower edge of the bag front with the short ends of the straps. step nineteen Tip: Bulky trims move easily under the tunnel in the sold of Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C. Attach Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C to your machine. Select the running zigzag stitch and set the stitch length at 4 mm. Position the embellished circles on the front panel, overlapping the straps. Stitch them in place, adding small pompom or sequin trim as you sew down the edges. step twenty Sew the back panel between the straps at the same end as the front panel, aligning the lower edge of the bag back panel with the short ends of the straps. Press the seam allowances toward the straps. Place the ends of the straps right sides together; stitch. Press the seam allowances to one side and topstitch the seams. 7
step twenty-one Stitch the lower edge of the bag together. Box the corners to make a base for your bag: Fold the corners diagonally as shown, matching the side seams with the base seam. Mark a line across the corner where it measures 8ʺ across. step twenty-two Place the lining pieces right sides together. Stitch the side seams, leaving an opening in one side for turning the bag right side out later. Box the corners of the lining as described above. Turn the upper edge of the lining under ½ʺ; press. Insert the lining into the bag, wrong sides together, matching the side seams. Align the folded upper edges of the lining and bag; adjust so the folded front and back panel edges extend just slightly beyond the folded lining edge. Use pins or fabric glue stitch to temporarily baste the lining into place. 8
step twenty-three Attach Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D to your machine. Select the straight stitch and move the needle left three steps. Position the upper edge of the bag under the foot, lining side on top, with the folded edge of the lining against the right side of the guide in the middle of the foot. Stitch around the entire top edge. step twenty-four Turn the long edges of the straps under ½ʺ; press. Fold the straps in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Align the folded edges; pin. step twenty-five Stitch the folded edges together, positioning them against the right side of the guide in the center of the foot. step twenty-six To shape your bag, place a folded towel inside and hang the bag overnight over a doorknob or hook. Show off your completed bag! 9