Martha s A-Line Skirt with Darts

Martha s A-Line Skirt with Darts Add a tailored look to a basic skirt with darts, a zipper, and a waist facing made of fabric or ribbon. The waist is flat with no band, and the skirt lies smoothly over the hips. Decorative hem options make this a versatile wardrobe piece. The skirt is sized XS to 4XL. Projects Designed Exclusively For Licensed Martha Pullen ~ Teaching Beginning Sewing Teachers 2003 Martha Pullen Company, Inc.

Martha s A-Line Skirt with Darts Note: The waistline of this skirt can be finished with a fabric facing or a ribbon facing. Supplies 45 fabric XS M 2-3/8 yards L 4XL 2-5/8 yards 60 fabric XS 1-3/8 yards S 1-1/2 yards M 1-7/8 yards L 2-1/4 yards XL - 4XL 2-1/2 yards 7 zipper to match fabric 1 hook and eye Hem tape (optional) Thread to match Hem gauge or ruler Tracing wheel and tracing paper for dark fabric Additional Supplies for Facing Version 1/2 yard of fusible interfacing One package of 3/8 twill tape Additional Supplies for Ribbon Facing 7/8 grosgrain ribbon Sizes XS S 7/8 yard M L 1 yard XL 2XL 1-1/4 yards 3XL 4XL 1-1/2 yards Pattern Pieces A-line Skirt Front A Skirt Back For Fabric Facing Version: Front and Back Facing I. Cutting and Marking 1. Refer to the layout found on the pattern pages. 2. From the fabric cut the following: one skirt front from the fold two skirt backs If you are using the fabric facing option, cut one front facing from the fold and two back facings. 3. If you are using the fabric facing option, cut one front facing from the fold and two back facings from the fusible interfacing. 4. Transfer the marking for the all darts and the center back dot for the zipper. Note: Transfer the markings for the darts and the dot onto the wrong side of the fabric. Usually the fabric is a double thickness, make sure the markings are transferred to both pieces. Wrong side skirt front Figure 1 Begin stitching Shorten stitch length 1/2 from point II. Darts All seams are 5/8 except where noted. Note: To mark dark fabrics use a tracing wheel and a contrasting tracing paper. Place fabric wrong sides together. Fold a piece of tracing paper with the chalk side out. Insert the paper between the fabric at the placement for the dart. Place the pattern on the right side of the fabric and press down on the tracing wheel along both sides of the dart. Remove the tracing paper and proceed to step 1. 1. Fold each dart with right sides together matching the stitching lines. Pin at the dart point and at the seamline and a midpoint mark. 2. A dart is stitched in a straight line from the wide end to the point. If needed, a straight line may be drawn from the wide end to the point with chalk, marking pin or a tracing wheel and tracing paper. 3. With a regular stitch length, begin sewing at the wide edge and backstitch to secure the thread. Stitch to about 1/2 from the dart point and shorten your stitch length to 1.5 and continue sewing. Sew off the fabric at the dart point without backstitching (fig. 1). The smaller stitches lock the threads. Threads may also be tied in a knot to lock the stitches. 2003 Martha Pullen Company, Inc. Projects Designed Exclusively For Licensed Martha Pullen ~ Teaching Beginning Sewing Teachers 2

4. Press darts flat along the stitching and then press the darts toward the center, away from the sides (figs 2 and 3). III. Skirt Back Zipper 1. Place the skirt backs, right sides together. 2. Machine baste the center back seam from the waist to the dot using a 1 seam. Stop and cut the threads. 3. Start again at the dot, backstitch and continue stitching to the lower edge of the skirt using a regular stitch length (L=2.5) (fig. 4). Finish each cut edge of the seam allowance with a zigzag or serge. Press the seam open. 4. The back zipper may be put in as a lap zipper or a centered zipper. The following instructions are for a lapped zipper. a. Unzip the zipper. b. Lay the zipper with the right side of the zipper to the seam allowance on one side of the seam. c. Lay the garment on a flat surface with the wrong side up and the waistline edge closest to you. d. Lay the zipper with the right side down and the zipper teeth along the seamline. Butt the teeth of the zipper to the seam opening. e. Using a zipper foot, stitch the zipper tape on one side of the zipper to the seam allowance only. The needle should always be between the zipper teeth and the zipper foot. The needle or the zipper foot may have to be moved to begin sewing. Stitch from the bottom to the top of the zipper (fig. 5). This will secure the zipper in place. f. Close the zipper and turn it right side up. Smooth the fabric away from the zipper forming a narrow fold. The garment should be on the left and the unattached side of the zipper on the right. g. Reposition the needle if necessary so that the needle is between the zipper teeth and the foot. Straight stitch close to the fold, through the folded seam and the zipper tape (fig. 6). h. Open out the fabric with the wrong side up and flip the zipper face down on the seam allowance. The pull tab of the zipper should flip up. Pin the unattached zipper tape in place through all thickness. Zipper right side down along seamline Wrong side skirt front Figure 2 Press darts toward center Skirt back Figure 3 Back stitch Skirt back 1 seam Figure 4 Stitch with zipper foot Press dart toward center Wrong side fabric Zipper on one layer Figure 5 of seam Figure 6 Baste where zipper goes Straight stitch close to fold Close zipper turn right side up Unattached zipper 2003 Martha Pullen Company, Inc. Projects Designed Exclusively For Licensed Martha Pullen ~ Teaching Beginning Sewing Teachers 3

i. With the right side of the garment up, repin the zipper tape and remove the pins from the wrong side. Place a pin at the bottom stop of the zipper (fig. 7). j. Begin stitching from the right side of the garment at the lower end of the zipper. Stitch across the bottom through all layers securing the thread with a backstitch. Stitch 3/8 to 1/2 across the bottom and stop with the needle down, pivot, and stitch along the side an even distance from the seam (fig. 8). k. Remove the basting threads. 5. Place the skirt front to the skirt back with the right sides together and stitch side seams (fig. 9). Finish each cut edge of the seam allowance with a zigzag or serge. Press the seam open. IV. Finishing the Waist The waist can be finished with (A.) a fabric facing or with (B.) ribbon A. Fabric Facing 1. Press fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the facing sections following the instructions on the interfacing. 2. Place the back facing pieces to the right side of the front facing and stitch together at the sides using a 5/8 seam. Press the seams open (fig. 10). 3. Finish the outer edge of the facing using one of the following techniques: A. Machine hemmed fabric facing (fig. 11) a. Stitch 1/4 from the outer edge. b. Turn 1/4 to the wrong side along the stitching line. c. Stitch the tiny hem in place with a straight stitch. The outer edge may be serged to finish. B. Serger finished fabric facing Set the serger for a three thread narrow seam. Serge along the outer edge of the facing to finish the edge. 4. With right sides together, pin the facing to the garment, matching the center front and the side seams. The facing will extend beyond the zipper opening. Machine baste (L=4.0) the facing to the skirt using a 5/8 seam allowance (fig. 12). 5. Baste the center of the cotton twill tape along the seam line (fig. 13). The twill tape will keep the seam from stretching. 6. Machine stitch (regular stitch length, L=2.5) the facing in place through all layers (twill tape, facing and the skirt) stitching along the seam line (see fig. 13). Figure 7 Figure 12 Figure 9 Figure 10 Figure 11 Figure 8 Figure 13 2003 Martha Pullen Company, Inc. Projects Designed Exclusively For Licensed Martha Pullen ~ Teaching Beginning Sewing Teachers 4 Zipper stop Back facing Extend facing beyond zipper Right side garment Right side Repin zipper tape Front facing Interfacing Pin facing to garment and baste 5/8 Remove basting threads Begin stitching Press seams open Finish outer edges Right side Zigzag or serge seams Back facing Baste center of twill tape along seam line

7. Trim the seam to 1/4. Clip the curves of the seam allowance in a few places as needed. Do not clip the twill tape. 8. Press the seam allowance toward the facing (fig. 14). Avoid pressing small tucks in the garment. 9. Understitch by stitching on the right side of the facing, close to the seamline, stitching through the facing and both seam allowances (fig. 15). 10. Flip the facing to the inside of the garment. Press along the seamline, rolling the seam slightly toward the facing side. 11. At the back opening turn the unfinished edge of the facing under at a sight angle to expose the zipper and slip-stitch the facing to the zipper tape (fig. 16). 12. Secure the facing at the darts and side seams by tacking the facing in place by hand (fig. 17). 13. Sew a hook and eye at the upper edge (see fig. 20). B. Ribbon Facing 1. Lay the ribbon with the edge of the ribbon on the 5/8 seam allowance. Let 1/4 of the ribbon extend past the edges of the back zipper seam (fig. 18). 2. Stitch the ribbon to the skirt along edge of the ribbon (fig. 18). 3. Trim and clip the seam allowance under the ribbon. 4. Press the ribbon to the inside of the skirt. 5. Fold the 1/4 ribbon extensions at the zipper to the inside of the skirt between the ribbon and the skirt. 6. Slip-stitch the ribbon to the zipper tape on the wrong side of the skirt (fig. 19). 7. Tack the ribbon in place at the seam lines and at the darts. 8. Sew a hook and eye at the upper edge (fig. 20). V. Hemming the Skirt 1. The garment needs to hang on a hanger for at least 24 hours before the hem is marked. This allows any bias areas of the garment to stretch and prevents the hemline from sagging. 2. Put on the skirt with the same clothes and shoes that you will be wearing. Stand in your normal posture with your weight on both feet. You should stand still, and the person doing the marking should move around you. 3. Use a yardstick or a skirt marker as the measuring devise. Keep the marking devise at right angles to floor. Place pins or mark with chalk every 3 to 4 inches around the hemline (fig. 21). Turn the hem to the wrong side of the skirt along the markings and pin the hem in place to check the length. Put on the skirt again and check the hem. Re-adjust the hem if necessary. Press well along the fold. Figure 14 Figure 16 Trim and clip Figure 18 Figure 20 Tack at darts and seams Wrong side Slip-stitch facing to zipper tape Trim seam to 1/4 Ribbon Understitch Slip-stitch Figure 15 Tack at darts and seams Figure 17 Figure 19 Mark hem Figure 21 Press seam toward facing Press ribbon under 1/4 2003 Martha Pullen Company, Inc. Projects Designed Exclusively For Licensed Martha Pullen ~ Teaching Beginning Sewing Teachers 5

4. Measure and mark 1 from the folded edge of the hem with a sewing gauge or small ruler. Trim away excess fabric (fig. 22). 5. Lower the hem. With the wrong side up, run a basting stitch (straight stitch, L=4.0) 1/4 from the cut edge (fig. 23). This basting stitch will be used later to remove the extra fullness at the top of the hem. 6. Turn the hem to the wrong side of the skirt. Pin the hem in place at each seam (sides and back) and the center front. 7. In several places along the basting stitch, use a straight pin to pick up a stitch of the bobbin thread; gently pull the thread toward a seam to ease in the extra fabric (fig. 24). 8. Press the gathered hem allowance to shrink out the fullness. 9. The cut edge of the hem can be finished with (a) hem tape, (b) using a zigzag or serged seam or (c) turning the edge to the inside 1/4. a. Hem tape Lower the hem. Place the hem tape along the right side of the hem so that the hem tape extends beyond the edge of the skirt 1/4. Stitch the hem tape in place along the upper edge of the tape (fig. 25). b. Lower the hem and serge or zigzag the cut edge of the hem (fig. 26). c. Turn the cut edge to inside 1/4 along the basting line and press (fig. 27). 10. Turn the hem to the wrong side of the skirt (fig. 28) and pin in place. 11. The hem can be stitched in place (a) by hand or (b) by machine. a. To hem by hand (refer to hemming by hand), use a single thread (fig. 29). Make sure stitches do not show on the outside of garment. Remember to keep the stitches slightly loose so that the fabric does not pull or ripple. b. To hem by machine refer to hemming by machine. Cut off excess Figure 22 Pull bobbin thread to ease in extra fabric Figure 24 Figure 26 Finish cut edge Mark 1 from fold edge Baste 1/4 from cut edge Figure 23 Right side Figure 25 Figure 27 Stitch hem tape on place Turn under 1/4 Turn hem and pin in place Figure 28 Turn under 1/4 and hem Hem by hand or machine Figure 29 2003 Martha Pullen Company, Inc. Projects Designed Exclusively For Licensed Martha Pullen ~ Teaching Beginning Sewing Teachers 6

Martha Pullen Skirt XS - 4XL A-line Skirt Elastic Waist A-line Skirt For use by Martha Pullen licensed teachers only! 2003 Martha Pullen Company, Inc.

Martha Pullen Skirt The A-line skirt has darts, a waist facing and a back zipper opening. The elastic waist A-line skirt has a waist casing for elastic. Both skirt versions flare gracefully to the ankle. FRONT BACK ELASTIC BODY MEASUREMENTS : SIZE XS SM MD LG XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 2-4 6-8 10-12 14-16 18-20 22-24 26-28 30-32 WAIST 23 26 29 32 36 40 44 48 in. HIP 33 36 39 42 46 50 54 58 in. YARDAGE WITH OR WITHOUT NAP: 1. A-LINE SKIRT XS SM MD LG XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 45" 2-3/8 2-3/8 2-3/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 YD 115cm 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 M 60" 1-3/8 1-1/2 1-7/8 2-1/4 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 YD 150cm 1.3 1.4 1.7 2 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 M 2. ELASTIC WAIST A-LINE SKIRT 45" 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 YD 115CM 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 M 60" 1-3/8 1-5/8 2 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 2-5/8 YD 150CM 1.2 1.4 1.9 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 M 3. OPTIONAL GROSGRAIN RIBBON FOR A-LINE SKIRT 1" 25-1/2 28-1/2 31-1/2 34-1/2 38-1/2 42-1/2 46-1/2 50-1/2 in. 2.5CM 64.8 72.4 80 87.6 97.8 108 118.1 128.3 cm. NOTIONS : Thread; one 7" (17.7cm) Zipper for A-Line Skirt only; 7/8" (2.2cm) wide Elastic for Elastic Waist Skirt only.

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20 Martha Pullen ea-line SKIRT MARTHA PULLEN A-LINE SKIRT LAYOUTS A-LINE SKIRT 45" (115cm) FABRIC W/WO NAP XS-MD = 2-3/8 YDS (2.1 M) 2 2 3 A-LINE SKIRT 45" (115cm) FABRIC W/WO NAP LG-4XL = 2-5/8 YDS (2.5 M) 1 4 fold selvages 1 4 fold 3 selvages A-LINE SKIRT 60" (150cm) FABRIC W/WO NAP XS = 1-3/8 YDS (1.2 M) fold 1 4 3 2 selvages A-LINE SKIRT 60" (150cm) FABRIC W/WO NAP SM = 1-1/2 YDS (1.3 M) MD = 1-7/8 YDS (1.7 M) LG = 2-1/4 YDS (2 M) fold 3 1 2 4 A-LINE SKIRT OPTIONAL WAIST FINISH GROSGRAIN RIBBON 1" (2.5cm) wide XS = 25.5" (64.8cm) XL = 38.5" (97.8cm) SM = 28.5" (72.4cm) 2XL = 42.5" (108cm) MD = 31.5" (80cm) 3XL = 46.5" (118.1cm) LG = 34.5" (87.6cm) 4XL = 50.5" (128.3cm) A-LINE SKIRT 60" (150cm) FABRIC W/WO NAP XL- 4XL = 2-1/2 YDS (2.3 M) 3 selvages 1 fold 2 4 selvages

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