1"- 2" - 3" BLOCKS HAVE (4 total) TAPPED 1/4" X 20 in 1" thick face alone AND (2) TAPPED HOLES 3/8" X 16 IN 1" THICKNESS AS SHOWN. BLOCKS ALSO HAVE (6) DRILLED 25/64" HOLES WITH (8) 9/16" COUNTER-BORES FOR 3/8" SHCS, AS SHOWN. I ALSO HAVE A SET OF 4 TOOLMAKER MADE BLOCKS ON ALMOST IDENTICAL TO THESE!~ MADE OF HARDENED AND PRECISION GROUND TOOL STEEL BLOCKS MEASURES 1.005" THICK x 2.005" WIDE X 3.0005" TALL. NEXT ARE (4) BLOCKS THAT MEASURE 1"+ (1.005") THICK X 1-1/4"+ (1.255") TALL AND ARE 1-1/2" (1.500") LONG. EACH HAS (5) TAPPED 1/4" X 20 HOLES WITH DRILLED HOLES 17/64" AND COUNTER-BORES OF 13/32" FOR 1/4" SOCKET HEAD CAPSCREWS. NEXT ARE (6) BLOCKS THAT MEASURE 7/8"+ (.885") THICK X 1-1/4"+ (1.255") TALL X 1-1/2" (1.500") LONG. SAME DRILL AND TAP PATTERN AS THE 4 ABOVE!!!
(4) 2" (2.000") THICK X 2" (2.000") WIDE X 2" (2.000") LONG. YOU GET 4 ALL PRECISION GROUND WITH PRECISION GROUND CHAMFERS ALSO! ALL 4 ARE IN GOOD USED CONDITION AS SHOWN. BLOCKS HAVE (1) THRU DRILLED 7/8" HOLES. BLOCKS ALSO HAVE (24 TOTAL) TAPPED #10 X 32 HOLES. ALL 4 HAVE VERY MINOR MARKS AND STAINS FROM USE AS SHOWN. ALL HAVE GREEN PAINT AS SHOWN? WHILE USED THESE STILL HAVE LOTS OF LIFE LEFT
DOG LEG WITH A 3/8" X 1" STEM SHANK. FEDERAL DOVETAIL CLAMP IS ALSO INCLUDED AS SHOWN. OVERALL LENGTH WHEN STRAIGHT IS 3-3/4" LONG. VERY NICE FOR "SWINGING" HOLES OR "SWINGING CENTER" WITH A GOOD TEST INDICATOR. I ALSO USED A MITUTOYO TEST INDICATOR GRIND CUBES BLOCKS OR PARALLELS (2) 2" WIDE X 2" TALL X 8" LONG WITH (50) TAPPED 3/8" X 16 HOLES IN EACH AS SHOWN!!!! THESE FURTHER HAVE (28) DRILLED 17/32" WITH 3/4" COUNTER-BORES! MADE OF HARDENED TOOL STEEL AND PRECISION GROUND TOOL STEEL
WHEEL DRESSER SINE SLIDE DIAMOND DRESSER ON A 2" CENTER DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ROLLS. AMERICAN TOOLMAKER MADE. COMES WITH NEW (1) 3/8" SINGLE POINT DIAMOND IN NEW CONDITION. TOOL COMES WITH (3) TOTAL DIAMONDS ONE IS A USED NORTON BC3-6 ALL 3/8" SHANK DIAMETER. LOCKING DEVICE WORKS VERY WELL TO LOCK THE ANGLE. NO RUST ON THIS BEAUTIFULL TOOL!!!!!! TOOL HAS "SINE X 2.0" +.300" = ANGLE" AND OTHER STACK DIMENSIONS STAMPED INTO RECESSES AS SHOWN. ALSO STAMPED INTO RECESS ON END IS FORMER OWNERS NAME.
THIS IS USED ON SURFACE GRINDERS WITH MAGNETIC CHUCKS TO DRESS BOTTOMS AND SIDES OF GRINDING WHEELS AT A PRECISEANGLE FOR PRECISE GRINDING APPLICATIONS WHEN USED WITH MAGNETIC CHUCK ON CORRECT MACHINE. BASE (1) MEASURES 3.010" WIDE x 3.090" LONG AND IS 2-1/16" TALL OVER THE SLIDE. SLIDE MOVEMENT IS APPX. 1" TO 1-1/2" APPX OF TRAVEL. MOORE TOOL ALSO OFFERS A SIMILAR UNIT AT $3000 EACH
MOORE TOOLS #3070-A EDGE FINDERS IN EXCELLENT USED CONDITION. THIS EDGE FINDER MOORE EDGE FINDER INDICATES LESS THAN A.0001" EVERYWHERE AND IS PERFECT. CERTAINLY AN ORIGINAL MOORE Item # 3070-A Edgefinder, Inch $5,100.00
Edgefinder, Inch Size and location of holes and length and width of parts can be determined precisely with the edge finder using inherent accuracy of Moore Jig Borer and Jig Grinder lead screws for measuring and an indicator as a comparator. Slot dimension : 0.400"
BLOCK MEASURES 2.9675" TALL X 3.460" WIDE X 5.953" LONG. GRIND CUBE OR BLOCK HAS (15 ) TAPPED 1/4" X20 HOLES IN TOP PLATE AS SHOWN. TOP PLATE THEN HAS (12 TOTAL) TAPPED 1/4" X 20 HOLES IN SIDES AND ENDS SO TOTAL TAPPED 1/4" X 20 HOLES IS 27 The Wiggler By Mike Rehmus The Wiggler is a pointer that can be accurately and easily located on the centerline of the longitudinal axis of the spindle to which is attached.
Wigglers are used to indicate the axis of the spindle to which they are temporarily attached. In practice, with the spindle turning at about 1000 rpm, the probe is centered (described later) and then the user visually centers the workpiece under the spindle (or the reverse). By carefully observing the relationship of the probe and the workpiece, the user can center the workpiece within one or two thousandths of an inch. Wigglers usually come in a small kit with a body and four or five probes, each of which have a ball on one end that fits into a collet on the body. The collet can be tightened, adjusting the socket/ball fit so that the tool will work properly. One of the probes is bent, with a relatively large ball on the end. This probe is to hold a dial indicator. To use, pick a probe with an end appropriate to the indication required. If you want to pick up a scribed center mark on the workpiece, you would use the pointed probe. Once you have the probe snapped into the body, tighten the collet until a fair amount of friction is felt. Do not lock the robe in the body. Next mount the body in the spindle and center the probe with your fingers. Then start the spindle at about 1000 rpm (with your hands away from the business end of the Wiggler). You will probably observe that the probe is now spinning nearly horizontal (the collet is too loose) or it is spinning in a near-perfect and small circle along the spindle axis. Using an object like a pencil (ideal), press the pencil on the side of the probe down near the business end. Press in towards the spindle axis and you will observe several phenomena: The probe will move to absolute center of the spindle. 2. It will be hard to move the probe off center with the pencil.
or 3. If the socket was too loose, the probe is now emulating a helicopter blade. If so, stop the spindle and tighten the collet more, reset the probe in the vertical position, start the spindle again. Repeat the previous alignment procedure. Now that the probe is running aligned with the spindle, you can use it to align the workpiece or spindle to the proper location. In practice, when aligning a center point, I find it useful to observe the sharp probe/workpiece relationship with a magnifying glass and from at least two locations 90 degrees apart. Sometimes I try to look at the relationship every 45 degrees or so. Done carefully, you can achieve an alignment within one or two thousandths of an inch. The Wiggler has a couple of probes with balls on the end. These are used just like you would an edge-finder except these are not self-resetting. That is, when you touch the workpiece with these probles, them start emulating a helicopter blade. Still, they are quite useful and if you have a Wiggler, you don't need to also purchase an Edge Finder too. The smaller ball, at 0.100" diameter can get into smaller places than the other 0.200" ball. When using the bent probe to hold an indicator, the socket has to be locked rigid. Mill-Spec Dominos by George M. Carlson Home Metal Shop Club - Houston, TX This is a great gift idea for those metal workers out there that would like to make something for a friend who does not have a need for a steam engines, dial indicator holder, or a brass hammer. I live in Texas where playing Dominos in the back of the feed store is quite popular. I made several sets and packaged them in nice wooden boxes for Christmas presents a few years back.
See the Details (70K) This shows a few of the dominos sitting on the compound of my lathe. They are made of 6061- T651 Aluminum Alloy. Do not use 2024 or 7075, they do not anodize very well. I purchased the material in 1 / 2 by 1" bar stock. The Domino blanks were sawed 2" long on a table saw with a cut-off box. My saw did a good job, and it was not necessary to clean-up the ends on the mill. A little WD-40 helps the saw do it's job without clogging. A twelve foot bar will make two sets plus spares. Next, edges of the blanks are softened on the belt sander. Ends are dressed and grained, as well as the sides. Again, a little WD-40 on the sanding belt prevents the belt from "burning" the aluminum. The blanks should be nice and shiny with smooth even graining. Wrap the blanks up carefully to prevent scratching and take them to an anodizer. Anodizing is generally not the sort of thing you would want to do at home. Tell the anodizer what you are up to. The shop I went to anodized eight sets for free, after I told him I would give him one of the finished sets. Black is the best color, but almost any color is available. Once the blanks are anodized, cut the line across the middle using a slitting saw or other suitable cutter. I used a gear cutter because it left the groove with a small radius at the bottom. A narrow kerf blade in the table saw would work well. See the Details (53K)
The jig for cutting the dots is shown in the second photo. This jig is not necessary, but it makes the production of multiple sets much easier and error free. Two type 601 De-Sta-Co clamps are used to hold the Domino blank against the delrin stops. Note the use of nylon screws as bumpers in the clamps. The fourteen holes drilled in the fixture are used to index the fourteen possible dot locations on the top of the Domino. It is necessary to load the Domino blank into the fixture just one time, making it less likely for the Domino to get scratched during production. To use the fixture, a plate, with a pin that fits the holes in the jig, is clamped in the milling machine or drill press. The index pin is carefully lined-up with the machine spindle. The dots are cut with a.250" diameter ball end mill to a depth of.100". See photo 3. It is a good idea to use a lubricant such as Tapmatic for Aluminum. This will help produce a bright dot and lesson the chance of producing a burr. Wash the Dominos in dish washing soap and dry thoroughly. It is a good idea to treat the finished Dominos to a light coat of wax. To do this, thin a small amount of paste wax with mineral spirits. Apply liberally and wipe off excess. After the wax has dried, buff the Dominos with a soft cloth. A beautiful set of Dominos such as these need to be kept in a nice container. For the sets I gave as gifts, I made boxes from Teak with an inlaid figure in the lid. The inlay? The silhouette of the state of Texas. See the Details (63K)