Version 1 p. 1
Materials: Lumber: Qty: Board 2 2x2s 3 ft. long 2 1x2s 8 ft. long 2 1x3s 8 ft. long 6 1x6s 10 ft. long INSTRUCTIONS: Supplies: 1 1 / 4" Kreg Screws (coarse thread for softwoods, fine thread for hardwoods) wood glue (optional) primer/paint or stain/clear finish Tools: Kreg Jig miter saw or circular saw jigsaw sander drill/driver Kreg Right Angle Clamp (optional) Kreg Face Clamp (optional) Before you begin building, take time to look over the Parts List, Cutting Diagram, and the illustrations to familiarize yourself with how the table goes together. You ll see that it s a straightforward assembly. The base has legs that are joined by aprons and rails. Stretchers help support the aprons and the rails, and serve as attachment points for the table top and shelf. The top is made by attaching boards edge-to-edge. The shelf is made up of a series of slats. It s also a good idea to cut the parts needed for each step as you go, rather than cutting everything all at once. This way, you if you should cut any parts incorrectly, you can either re-cut them or modify other parts to make up any differences. For all of the steps in this project, you ll be able to set up your Kreg Jig and Drill Bit Stop Collar for 3 / 4"-thick stock. Step 1: Build the End Assemblies Each end assembly consists of two legs, made from 2x2 boards, that are connected by an End Apron at the top and a Shelf End Rail near the bottom. 1. Start by cutting the two End Aprons and two Shelf End Rails to length, and then drilling pocket holes as shown. 2. Cut four Legs to length, and then cut the 45 miter at one end of each leg. 3. Lay out the legs as shown, and then drill pocket holes. Note that you ll need to create two matched pairs, so pay close attention to where you place the pocket holes. 4. Create two end assemblies by attaching the End Aprons and Shelf End Rails to the legs using 1 1 / 4" Kreg Screws. Note that the miters on the legs should face each other. Be sure to place 1 / 2"-thick scrap stock under the Shelf End Rails before attaching them. A Kreg Right Angle Clamp can be helpful for holding the parts together as you drive in screws. Version 1 p. 2
Step 2: Build the Top Apron Assembly The end assemblies get connected at the top by an Apron at the front and back. Stretchers running between the Aprons are used to help connect the table top later. 5. Cut two Front/Back Aprons and two Top Stretchers to length, and then drill pocket holes as shown. 6. Screw the Top Stretchers to the Front/back Aprons, making sure that all of the pocket holes along the edges are pointing in the same direction. Version 1 p. 3
Step 3: Build the Shelf Rail Assembly To further strengthen the coffee table and to support the slatted shelf that gets added later, the end assemblies also are connected by Rails at the front and back. Shelf Stretchers join the rails and will get used to attach the shelf slats later. 7. Cut two Shelf Front/Back Rails and two Shelf Stretchers to length, and then drill pocket holes as shown 8. Screw the Shelf Stretchers to the Front/Back Rails as shown, making sure that all of the pocket holes along the edges are pointing in the same direction. Step 4: Assemble the Table Base Now complete the table base by connecting the apron and rail assemblies to the end assemblies. 9. Lay out the table end assemblies and the apron and rail assemblies as shown so that you can assemble the table base. Be sure to support the shelf rail assembly on 1 / 2"-thick scrap stock. 10. Screw the aprons and rails to the legs as shown. Version 1 p. 4
Step 5: Create the Table Top Now you can create the solid-wood top for your table using 1x6 boards and Kreg Joinery. For the top, be sure to select boards that are flat and free from warp, twisting, or bowed edges. 11. Cut five 1x6 boards to length 12. Lay out and drill the pocket holes as shown to create two Edge Top Slats, two Mid Top Slats, and one Center Top Slat. 13. Connect the slats together to complete the top. Note: A Kreg Face Clamp can be helpful for holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. 14. Lay the table top face down, and then place the table base on the table top. Position the base so that the top overhangs at all four corners as shown. 15. Attach the table top by driving screws through the pockets in the aprons, stretchers, and legs, and into the table top slats. Version 1 p. 5
Step 7: Add the Shelf Slats The shelf is also made from 1x6 boards, but instead of getting screwed together, they are mounted to the table base with gaps in between. 16. Start by cutting four 1x6 boards to length. 17. Designate two of the boards as Edge Shelf Slats, and cut notches at the corners as shown to fit around the table legs. 18. Install the shelf starting with the edge slats. Note that there should be a 1/8 gap between the notches and the legs. Drive screws through the pockets in the Shelf Rails and Stretchers and into the Edge Slats. 19. Attach the remaining two Shelf Slats after positioning them so that there are consistent gaps between the boards. Step 8: Finishing Touches If you used glue, Scrape off any glue and sand as needed. Then give the parts a final sanding. Whenever possible, always sand with the grain (along the length of the boards) rather than across the grain. This helps prevent unwanted scratches, which is especially important if you plan to stain or use a clear finish. If painting, apply two coats of primer (sanding between coats) and paint as desired. If staining, apply desired stain and clear finish, making sure to sand or rub with steel wool between coats. Version 1 p. 6
Finished Dimensions: Height: 15 3 / 4 Width: 51 1 / 2" Depth: 27 1 / 2" Parts List: Part Qty Size End Aprons 2 3 / 4" x 2 1 / 2" x 21" Shelf End Rails 2 3 / 4" x 1 1 / 2" x 21" Legs 4 1 1 / 2" x 1 1 / 2" x 15" Top Stretchers 2 3 / 4" x 2 1 / 2" x 22 1 / 2" Front/Back Aprons 2 3 / 4" x 2 1 / 2" x 45" Shelf Stretchers 2 3 / 4" x 1 1 / 2" x 21 1 / 2" Shelf Front/Back Rails 2 3 / 4" x 1 1 / 2" x 45" Edge Top Slats 2 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 51 1 / 2" Mid Top Slats 2 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 51 1 / 2" Center Top Slat 1 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 51 1 / 2" Edge Shelf Slats 2 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 48" Center Shelf Slats 2 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 48" Cutting Diagram: Version 1 p. 7
Version 2 p. 1
Materials Lumber: Qty: Board 2 2x2s 3 ft. long 2 1x2s 8 ft. long 2 1x4 8 ft. long 1 1x6 8 ft. long 3 1x6 10 ft. long 2 1x8 10 ft. long 2 1/2x4 4 ft. long 1 1/4-inchx2x2-foot sheet of plywood Supplies: 1 1 / 4" Kreg Screws (coarse thread for softwoods, fine thread for hardwoods) 1" Kreg Screws (coarse thread for softwoods, fine thread for hardwoods) Two 16-inch drawer slides 1 drawer pull wood glue (optional) primer/paint or stain/clear finish Tools: Kreg Jig table saw miter saw router with a variety of bits router table jigsaw sander drill/driver Kreg Right Angle Clamp (optional) Kreg Face Clamp (optional) INSTRUCTIONS: Before you begin building, take time to look over the Parts List, Cutting Diagram, and the illustrations to familiarize yourself with how the table goes together. You ll see that it s a straightforward assembly. The base has legs that are joined at the top by wide aprons. A drawer in the front apron adds a handy place to store small items like television remotes. At the bottom, the legs are joined by rails. Stretchers help support the aprons and the rails, and serve as attachment points for the table top and shelf. The top and the shelf are both made by attaching boards edge-to-edge. It s also a good idea to cut the parts needed for each step as you go, rather than cutting everything all at once. This way, you if you should cut any parts incorrectly, you can either re-cut them or modify other parts to make up any differences. Set up your Kreg Jig and Drill Bit Stop Collar for 3 / 4"-thick stock unless otherwise indicated. Step 1: Build the End Assemblies Each end assembly consists of two legs, made from 2x2 boards, that are connected by an End Apron at the top and a Shelf End Rail near the bottom. 1. Start by cutting the two End Aprons and two Shelf End Rails to length, and then drilling pocket holes as shown. 2. Cut four Legs to length, and then cut the 45 miter at one end of each leg. 3. Lay out the legs as shown, and then drill pocket holes. Note that you ll need to create two matched pairs, so pay close attention to where you place the pocket holes. 4. Create two end assemblies by attaching the End Aprons and Shelf End Rails to the legs using 1 1 / 4" Kreg Screws. Note that the miters on the legs should face each other. Be sure to place 1 / 2"-thick scrap stock under the Shelf End Rails before attaching them. A Kreg Right Angle Clamp can be helpful for holding the parts together as you drive in screws. Version 2 p. 2
Step 2: Build the Top Apron Assembly The end assemblies get connected at the top by an Apron at the front and back. Stretchers running between the Aprons are used to help connect the table top later. The back apron and stretchers are simply cut to length from a 1x6 board. The front apron, though, is a little bit different. It has an opening to receive a drawer that gets built later. This apron is made using shorter 1x4 Top Rails that get connected to long Apron Strips. 5. Cut two Back Aprons and two Top Stretchers to length, and then drill pocket holes as shown. 6. Cut two Top Rails to length, and then drill pocket holes as shown. 7. Rip two 1"-wide Front Apron Strips and cut them to final length. 8. Attach the Top Rails to the Front Apron Strips by driving screws through the pocket holes in the rails and into the strips. 9. After assembling the Front Apron, drill a series of pocket holes, as shown, that will be used later to attach the table top. 10. Screw the Top Stretchers to the Front/back Aprons, making sure that all of the pocket holes along the edges are pointing in the same direction. Version 2 p. 3
Version 2 p. 4
Step 3: Build the Shelf Rail Assembly To further strengthen the coffee table and to support the shelf that gets added later, the end assemblies also are connected by Rails at the front and back. Shelf Stretchers join the rails and will get used to attach the shelf slats later. 11. Cut two Shelf Front/Back Rails and two Shelf Stretchers to length, and then drill pocket holes as shown 12. Screw the Shelf Stretchers to the Front/Back Rails as shown, making sure that all of the pocket holes along the edges are pointing in the same direction. Step 4: Assemble the Table Base Now complete the table base by connecting the apron and rail assemblies to the end assemblies. 13. Lay out the table end assemblies and the apron and rail assemblies as shown so that you can assemble the table base. Be sure to support the shelf rail assembly on 1 / 2"-thick scrap stock. 14. Screw the aprons and rails to the legs as shown. Step 5: Build a Simple Drawer The drawer for the table consists of a drawer box, made from 1 / 2"-thick stock, that has a groove to receive a plywood drawer bottom. Once assembled, the drawer box gets a 3 / 4"-thick drawer front installed. The drawer front is purposely larger than the drawer opening in the table apron. That way, the drawer front overhangs the opening to hide the gaps and the drawer slides you ll install. Version 2 p. 5
Before making the drawer, measure the opening in the Front Apron to make sure that it is the same size as shown in this plan. The drawer opening should be 18". The width of the assemble drawer box will be 17" 1" less than the width of the opening. This is correct, as it allows 1 / 2" on each side for the drawer slides, which are generally 1 / 2" thick. If the drawer opening in your apron isn t 18", you ll want to adjust your drawer box to fit by adjusting the length of the Drawer Ends as needed. Set up your Kreg Jig and Drill Bit Stop Collar for 1 / 2"-thick stock before drilling any of the pocket holes in the drawer. 15. Start by ripping two 1 / 2"x4-4 ft. long boards to 3 1 / 4" wide. 16. Create a groove in each of these boards, as shown, using either a table saw or a router equipped with a 1 / 4" straight bit. This groove will receive the plywood drawer bottom. 17. Cut two Drawer Ends and two Drawer Sides to length and drill pocket holes as shown. 18. Cut a Drawer Bottom to size. 19. Attach both drawer ends to one of the drawer sides. Slip the drawer bottom into place, and then install the remaining drawer end. 20. Cut a Drawer Front to size. If you wish to, add a decorative profile to the edges of the drawer front using a router (or router table) and the profile bit of your choice (such as a roundover, chamfer, ogee, etc.). 21. Center the drawer front on the drawer box and attach it by driving screws through the pockets in the drawer sides and into the drawer front. 22. Install drawer slides on the drawer and in the table base according to the slide manufacturer s instructions. Version 2 p. 6
Step 6: Create the Table Top Now you can create the solid-wood top for your table using 1x6 boards and Kreg Joinery. For the top, be sure to select boards that are flat and free from warp, twisting, or bowed edges. 23. Cut five 1x6 boards to length 24. Lay out and drill the pocket holes as shown to create two Edge Top Slats, two Mid Top Slats, and one Center Top Slat. Be sure your Kreg Jig and Drill Bit Stop Collar are set up for 3 / 4"-thick stock. 25. Connect the slats together to complete the top. Note: A Kreg Face Clamp can be helpful for holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. 26. If desired, rout a profile around the edge of the table top using the same profile bit you used on the drawer front. 27. Lay the table top face down, and then place the table base on the table top. Position the base so that the top overhangs at all four corners as shown. 28. Attach the table top by driving screws through the pockets in the aprons, stretchers, and legs, and into the table top slats. Version 2 p. 7
Step 7: Add a Shelf The Shelf consists of four slats that are attached edge-to-edge to form a solid-wood panel. The slats are ripped to final width (6) from 1x8 boards. Notches at the corners allow the shelf to fit around the table legs. 29. Cut four Shelf Slats to width and length, and then drill pocket holes as shown to create a Front Edge Slat, a Back Edge Slat, and two Center Slats. 30. Attach the slats together using pocket screws. Note: A Kreg Face Clamp can be helpful for holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. 31. Cut notches at all four corners of the shelf, as shown. 32. Slip the shelf into the table base, and center it so that the gaps between the legs and the notches are consistent. 33. Attach the shelf by driving screws through the pockets in the rails and stretchers, and into the shelf slats. Version 2 p. 8
Step 8: Finishing Touches If you used glue, Scrape off any glue and sand as needed. Then give the parts a final sanding. Whenever possible, always sand with the grain (along the length of the boards) rather than across the grain. This helps prevent unwanted scratches, which is especially important if you plan to stain or use a clear finish. If painting, apply two coats of primer (sanding between coats) and paint as desired. If staining, apply desired stain and clear finish, making sure to sand with fine-grit sandpaper or rub with steel wool in between. Version 2 p. 9
Finished Dimensions: Height: 15 3/4 inches Width: 51 1/2 inches Depth: 27 1/2 inches Parts List: Table Part Quantity Size End Aprons 2 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 21" Shelf End Rails 2 3 / 4" x 1 1 / 2" x 21" Legs 4 1 1 / 2" x 1 1 / 2" x 15" Top Stretchers 2 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 22 1 / 2" Top Rails 2 3 / 4" x 3 1 / 2" x 13 1 / 2" Front Apron Strips 2 3 / 4" x 1" x 45" Back Apron 1 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 45" Shelf Stretchers 2 3 / 4" x 1 1 / 2" x 21 1 / 2" Shelf Front/Back Rails 2 3 / 4" x 1 1 / 2" x 45" Edge Top Slats 2 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 51 1 / 2" Mid Top Slats 2 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 51 1 / 2" Center Top Slat 1 3 / 4" x 5 1 / 2" x 51 1 / 2" Back Edge Shelf Slat 1 3 / 4" x 6" x 48" Front Edge Shelf Slat 1 3 / 4" x 6" x 48" Center Shelf Slats 2 3 / 4" x 6" x 48" Drawer Part Quantity Size Drawer Ends 2 1 / 2" x 3 1 / 4" x 16" Drawer Sides 2 1 / 2" x 3 1 / 4" x 20" Drawer Bottom 1 1 / 4" x 16 3 / 8" x 19 3 / 8" Drawer Front 1 3 3 / 4" x 4 1 / 2" x 19" Cutting Diagram: Version 2 p. 10