dyeing and finishing Advances in of technical textiles the Edited by M. L. Gulrajani TheTextile Institute

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Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 138 Advances in the dyeing and finishing of technical textiles Edited by M. L. Gulrajani TheTextile Institute WP WOODHEAD PUBLISHING Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi

dyes Contents Contributor contact details xi Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xv Part I Advances in dyes and colourants 1 1 Chromic materials for technical textile applications 3 R. M. Christie, Heriot-Watt University, UK 1.1 Introduction 3 1.2 Thermochromism 6 1.3 Photochromism 16 1.4 Ionochromism 25 1.5 Electrochromism 27 1.6 Miscellaneous chromic materials 30 1.7 Future trends 31 1.8 Sources of further information 32 1.9 References 33 2 Optical effect pigments for technical textile applications 37 N. Sekar, Institute of Chemical Technology, India 2.1 Introduction 37 2.2 Different types of pigments and dyes 38 2.3 Substrate-based effect pigments 42 2.4 Future trends 45 2.5 References 45 3 UV-absorbent, antimicrobial, water-repellent and other types of functional dye for technical textile applications 47 N. Sekar, Institute of Chemical Technology, India 3.1 Introduction 47 3.2 High light-fast dyes - with inbuilt UV-absorbing units 48 v

vi Contents 3.3 Antimicrobial dyes 50 3.4 Water-repellent dyes and other fluorine-containing functional dyes 52 3.5 Biodegradable dyes 56 3.6 Fluorescent dyes and phosphorescent colorants 58 3.7 Future trends 70 3.8 References 70 4 Microencapsulated textile application 78 colourants for technical G. Nelson, Burgundy Gold Limited, UK 4.1 Introduction 78 4.2 The fundamentals of microencapsulation technology 79 4.3 Applications in textile printing 86 4.4 Applications in textile processing 88 4.5 Miscellaneous applications of microencapsulated colourants 96 4.6 Commercially available products 97 4.7 Future trends 98 4.8 References 100 5 Regulations relating to the use of textile dyes and chemicals 105 D. M. Wakankar, Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd, India 5.1 Introduction 105 5.2 Restricted substances and their regulation 107 5.3 Retailer standards and ecolabels 121 5.4 Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals (REACH) 127 5.5 Future trends 129 5.6 References 130 Part II Advances in finishing techniques 133 6 Mechanical finishing techniques for technical textiles 135 R. Senthil Kumar and S. Sundaresan, Kumaraguru College of Technology, India 6.1 Introduction 135 6.2 Dry finishing techniques 136 6.3 Calendering 140 6.4 Wet finishing techniques 147

Contents vii 6.5 Mechanical finishing technologies and applications 150 6.6 Sources of further information and advice 152 6.7 Further reading 153 7 Softening treatments for technical textiles 154 D. Gupta, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India 7.1 Introduction 154 7.2 Methods of softening 155 7.3 Chemistry of softeners 159 7.4 Application of softeners to technical textiles 163 7.5 Effect of softeners on textile properties 166 7.6 Environmental impact of softeners 169 7.7 Measurement of fabric softness 170 7.8 Future trends 172 7.9 References 173 8 The use of enzymatic techniques in the finishing of technical textiles 177 R. Paul and E. Genesca, LEITAT Technological Center, Spain 8.1 Introduction: use of enzymes in textile finishing 177 8.2 Enzymatic processing of natural fibres 181 8.3 Surface modification and functionalization of synthetic fibres 187 8.4 Application of enzymes in the finishing of technical textiles 189 8.5 Assessment techniques and future trends 192 8.6 References 193 9 The use of surfactants in the finishing of technical textiles 199 C. N. Sivaramakrishnan, Anmol Polymers Private Limited, India 9.1 Introduction 199 9.2 Raw materials for surfactants 205 9.3 Cationic and non-ionic surfactants 210 9.4 Novel surfactants 216 9.5 Applications of surfactants 231 9.6 Conclusion 234 9.7 Further reading 235

Northridge, viii Contents 10 Inkjet printing of technical textiles 236 K. Maguire King, [TC]2 - Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation, USA 10.1 Introduction 236 10.2 Development of printer hardware for inkjet printing of textiles 238 10.3 Ink chemistry for technical textiles 244 10.4 Development of auxiliary equipment and supporting software 248 10.5 Trends in technology development 251 10.6 Technology application 255 10.7 Conclusion 256 10.8 References 257 11 Functional finishes to improve the comfort and protection of apparel 258 R. M. Cloud, Baylor University, USA,W. Cao, California - State University USA and G. Song, University of Alberta, Canada 11.1 Introduction 258 11.2 Finishes to improve comfort 259 11.3 Finishes to provide protection 267 11.4 Comfort and health issues related to textile finishes 272 11.5 Future trends 273 11.6 Sources of further information and advice 274 11.7 References 274 12 The use of nanotechnology in the finishing of technical textiles 280 M. L. Gulrajani, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India 12.1 Introduction 280 12.2 Hydrophobic nano-finishes 281 12.3 Super-hydrophobic nano-finishes 284 12.4 Photocatalytic self-cleaning nano-finishes 293 12.5 Antimicrobial nano-finishes 298 12.6 References 303

Contents ix 13 Speciality polymers for the finishing of technical textiles 309 M. Jassal and A. K. Agrawal, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India 13.1 Introduction 309 13.2 Temperature responsive breathable coatings for smart textiles 315 13.3 Bioactive finishes for protection against biological attack and other medical applications 320 13.4 Finishes for protection against flame and thermal radiation 323 13.5 Repellent, release, hydrophobic and self-cleaning finishes 327 13.6 Finishes for conducting textiles 334 13.7 Other functional finishes 340 13.8 Conclusions and future trends 343 13.9 Sources of further information and advice 343 13.10 References 344 14 Application technologies for coating, lamination and finishing of technical textiles 355 M. Joshi and B. S. Butola, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India 14.1 Introduction 355 14.2 Coating technology 357 14.3 Roll coating 361 14.4 Lamination methods 372 14.5 Finishing methods 380 14.6 Plasma processing 389 14.7 Plasma system classification 392 14.8 Advances in application of speciality finishes/coatings 398 14.9 Conclusion 407 14.10 Acknowledgements 408 14.11 References 409 Index 412