Basic Color Theory and Shading M. Lucia Bellini

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Color Theory Note: This class deals with color as it relates to pigments, not to light. This is the spectrum of the rainbow. If we take that row of colors and curve it into a circle so that the violet is next to the red, the result is a color wheel. The primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. Secondary colors are created by mixing two of the primary colors. Tertiary, or intermediate, colors are mixtures of adjacent secondary colors. Complementary colors are opposite each other on the color wheel. When complementary colors are used side by side, they appear more intense. When they are mixed together, they neutralize, or grey, each other. There was a book written a few years ago entitled Blue and Yellow Don t Make Green. The author s contention is that pure colors are not available in pigments, but that, for example, any yellow paint will tend toward either greenish yellow or orangey yellow. If you mix an orangey yellow with blue, the orange will interact with the blue its complementary color and the green will be less intense than green made with a greenish yellow.

Page 2 of 5 The best way for you to learn about color is to play with it yourself. Theory without action is... well, theory. One good way to learn from your colormixing experiments is to make notes next to each result about exactly which colors went into it (ie, cadmium yellow vs lemon yellow.) This will make it much easier to figure out how to actually make the color you want. Note: when mixing color, it is generally best to add the darker color to the lighter one. Start with a small amount until you see how strong the effect will be. Shading (A modern analysis) An object that is shaded commonly shows the area that gets the most light being lighter than the object s normal color, while a middle area shows the normal color, and an area that has been shaded from the light is darkened. The source of light is often depicted as being the upper left corner of the illumination; when this is the case, the shadows will be on the lower right. If you add white to lighten, why not just add black to darken? If you add black to yellow, however, you often get an unhappy shade of green, so there must be another answer. Color theory-- and a touch of physics-- can be helpful here. We see color by what part of the light is reflected back to our eyes. If an object looks red to us, it is because it absorbs all other color and reflects only the red light. If an object appears green, it is reflecting a mixture of blue and yellow and absorbing red. So if we mix red and green it is obvious that, at least in theory, all colors are being absorbed and we get black. In practice, we generally get a dark, sometimes greyish, brown. This is the basis for a more helpful method of shading. If you wish to shade a yellow robe, for example, add a touch of violet to make a brown that is an appropriate shadow on yellow. The amount of violet you add will depend on how dark you wish to make the shadow. Shading (A historical view) Agrimensores, 9 th C Bologna, p 48 Gospel book, mid 8 th C de Hamel, p 35 Roman Virgil, 5 th C Bologna, p 43 Illuminations done in the early Middle Ages are often stylized and show flat color with dark lines to indicate folds in fabric.

Basic Color Theory and Shading Page 3 of 5 Codex Aureus, mid 8th C Bologna p66, de Hamel p 26 Pliny the Elder, Historia Naturalis 12th-13th C Bologna, p 112 More variation can be added between the two extremes of light and dark. There may be flat bands of color laid next to each other, becoming progressively lighter or darker. This Ottonian style illumination does not show shading, but uses richly patterned fabrics for visual interest. Amrosiana Missal, 2nd half of 14th C Bologna, p 124 The Mirror of the Life of Christ, 2nd half 15th C Bologna, p 138 Bible Historialis, 14th C de Hamel, p 162h It is not uncommon for Gothic illumination to use darker tones of the main color for shading. This works well for miniatures where objects and people are very small; it helps keep the colors clear and creates a jewel tone effect. It is less realistic than a greyer shade would be. Gothic illumination, though highly stylized, typically uses smooth shading rather than clear distinctions between colors. Objects may also be outlined for extra crispness. This method of shading can be pretty simple; you typically add white in varying degrees to suggest more or less light. If you start with a dark color such as ultramarine, it is often possible to simply use the original color for the shadows. Adding shadows to some colors can be a little trickier, however. Obviously, using pure yellow will not give much contrast; pure red does not usually appear particularly shadowy, either. In both these cases, the addition of the complementary color works well to create shadows.

Page 4 of 5 Le Jouvencel, 16 th C Bologna, p 155 Note the shading of the pink leggings Book of Hours of the Virgin, 16 th C Bologna, p 159 A more exaggerated version of this theory actually uses the complementary color itself for the shading. Gradual, mid 16 th C Bologna, p 157 Breviary, late 15th C de Hamel, p 214 Some works of the 15 th and early 16 th century use yellow or gold cross-hatching to indicate highlights, with a more intense version of the main color for shading. The mechanics of shading also offer several options. As I noted above, early works show bands of color laid next to each other with no blending. Later works show a smoother, blended transition. One way to achieve this with gouache is to put two colors next to each other and immediately use a barely wet brush to blend them together. If you wish to use this technique it is helpful to use ox gall liquid to slow the drying time of the paint. Again, the best way to learn how to use each of these techniques is by practice. Bibliography Bologna, Giulia, Illuminated Manuscripts: The Book Before Gutenberg, Crescent Books, NY, 1995. ISBN 0-517-12083-6 de Hamel, Christopher, A History of Illuminated Manuscripts, Phaidon Press, London, 1994. ISBN 0-7148-2949-8 Wilcox, Michael, Blue and Yellow Don t Make Green, North Light Books,

Page 5 of 5 Cincinnati, Ohio, 1994. ISBN 0-89134-622-8